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Full text of "African hunting, from Natal to the Zambesi : including Lake Ngami, the Kalahari Desert, &c. From 1852 to 1860"

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Lon.d.on, B:l cliaxa. B entley;lB.6S. 





FROM 1852 TO 1860 


With Illustrations by James Wolf and J. B. Zwecker 



ipublisjwr in (Drbinarg to Her Utajrstg 


The right of translation is reserved 


. Bj*] 












1* A till 














. 112 









— MERICO.231 









2 . 




6 . 


8 . 


10 . 

11 . 

12 . 








20 . 

21 . 

22 . 






An Alligator disappointed . 

. 10 

A Boat attacked by Hippopotamus . 

. 19 

Asleep in a River .... 

. 27 

A forced Return .... 

To face 39 

Knocked from a Hut by a Lioness . 

. 47 

Shot a Hippopotamus 

. 89 

Tbe Waggon and Oxen race down Hill 

. 97 

Bead Alligator dragged into Water by Comrades 

. 101 

Shot Rhinoceros — Calf and Dogs fighting . 

. 107 

Inyala, Dogs, and Hyenas 

. To face 118 

Two Lionesses roaring at me 

. 119 

Hide-and-Seek with Buffalo 

. 123 

Stalking Koodoos .... 

. 129 

Leaped by a Buffalo 

. To face 139 

A cold Encampment 

. 157 

Giraffe Himted and Shot 

. 172 

Black Rhinoceros tossing Dog 

. 196 

Return to Camp by Moonlight 

. 197 

Hunting Baboons .... 

. 209 

Chased up and down Hill by Elephant 

. 213 

My Beard admired by Natives 

. 218 

Killing Snakes .... 

. 222 

Giraffe Hunt — Herd of Buffaloes chasing . 

. To face 223 

A Giraffe in a Tree .... 

. 242 

Deserted and alone by Fire . 

. 251 

Shot Oryx — Dogs wounded 

. 256 

Native chased by Buffalo Cow and Calf 

. 258 


28. Elephant chases me . 

29. Dining with Kaffir Chief 

30. Travel by Moonlight 

31. Forest on Fire 

32. Hyena chased by Torchlight 

33. Crossing the Tugela — A Ducking . 

34. Zebra Hunt — Fall with Horse 

35. Chase of three Elands 

36. Shot a Gremsbok before Horse’s Feet 

37. Horseback — Pass by savage Elephant 

38. Chased by infuriated Buffalo 

39. Chase of Ostrich 

40. Lion Shot .... 


To face 262 
„ 266 
To face 376 
„ 383 

. 386 
To face 404 
„ 420 

. 442 

Ionian IticIaril Ben-fl.ey.lS62. 







When the following pages taken from my journals 
were written, sometimes in ink, but often in pencil, 
gunpowder, tea, &c.,in Kaffir kraals or wagon bottoms, 
and chiefly for a brother’s eye, I little thought that 
they would ever come before the public ; and it is 
only now, at the earnest solicitations of my friends— 
and almost promises made to many I left behind me 
in Natal, who noticed the once short trips grow 
longer and longer, till, in my last, 2,000 miles of an 
almost unexplored country had been traversed and 
the Zambesi reached — that I am now induced, with 
some diffidence, to publish them. 

Conscious that in going ten years back I am neces¬ 
sarily travelling over ground already pre-occupied 




by other sportsmen and travellers, and that the 
hospitality of my friends in England, and days with 
the Quorn and Mr. Tailby’s, combined with my 
natural aversion to any set task, have ill fitted me to 
redeem the monotony inseparable from a journal, or 
the apparent egotism in that of the lonely traveller, I 
nevertheless appear before the public, with the hope 
that if again I should return to the land of my adop¬ 
tion, beginning my travels where I have now left off, 
I may hereafter produce something better worth their 

I feel that I owe a few words of explanation to 
my many friends in Africa as to the reasons why 
I went there at all, with a page of my earlier life 
which may perhaps be omitted by the general 
reader. The love of sport, dogs, and horses was 
innate in me. From the age of six I had my two 
days a week on my pony with the neighbouring 
harriers; until, one unfortunate day, an extra achieve¬ 
ment, as I considered it, brought a kindly and well- 
meant caution to my father from the worthy squire, 
which had the effect of sending me off to school. 
There I got on, I suppose, much as others, and on 
leaving it, being of a roving turn of mind, I was 
placed in the large merchant’s office of an ex-M.P., 
with a view of being fitted for going abroad. No 
doubt I did my best (though, to say truth, my boats 
and bull-terriers, with our beagles, and meetings, 
somewhat militated against the duties and discipline 
of the office), till at last, upon comparing notes with 



the junior partner, we arrived at the same conclusion, 
viz., that quill-driving was not my particular voca¬ 
tion, nor a three-legged stool the exact amount of 
range to which I was willing to restrict myself 
through the sunniest part of life. So I went into 
Forfarshire to learn farming — very pleasant, but 
ending in what our transatlantic friends term a 
difficulty with the master. I changed my location 
to a West Highland farm, where on thirteen miles 
square of mountain, flood, moor, and lakes, some 
two acres of arable land, and two whiskey stills, 
the fond parent no doubt imagined that his hard- 
worked son was being duly initiated into all the 
science and mysteries of light Scotch farming. Be 
that as it may, what with the game, fish, and vermin, 

my dogs and the round of trysts with old L-, 

than whom a better-hearted fellow never 6 took his 
morning,’ I was what might be called master of the 
situation. I look upon those years as among the 
happiest of my life. But time wore on, and having 
no earthly prospect of the command of anything 
like a moor or a stud in the old country, I cast 
about me for some land of greater liberty (at least 
of foot), and had engaged a fine young Scotchman 
to go with me ; but while debating whether Canada 
or the western prairies of America was to be my 
destination, two intimate friends, the sons of a 
neighbouring gentleman, who were going to Natal, 
advised that colony ; and Gordon Cumming’s book, 
which appeared at that moment, and as I thought 

B 2 



in the very nick of time, settled me at once. My 
preparations were soon made ; my little all con¬ 
sisting chiefly of guns, rifles, saddles, ‘ et id genus 
omne.’ Perhaps the only expensive, and as it 
proved useless, part of my outfit, was seven deer¬ 
hounds, purchased from a keeper of Lord Pitz- 
william’s, for though Hotspur and Laddie were as 
good dogs as were ever slipped, they soon grew 
useless and died. The younger ones, being better 
acclimatised, did me some good service for a time, 
but they, too, soon succumbed to the climate, and 
taught me never again to take out what the country 
itself can furnish better. 

I landed in Natal, December 1851, after a ninety- 
two days’ passage. I was most anxious to be 
introduced to 6 Elephant White,’ as he was called, a 
great hunter; but whether he earned that title 
from his own elephantine proportions, six feet four 
inches, or from his prowess with the animal from 
which he derived his name, I have yet to learn. I 
believe he had been very successful formerly when 
elephants were more plentiful, but he had grown 
idle, and left the hard work to younger hands. 
This Mr. White was making preparations for a 
start into the Zulu country, hence my anxiety for 
an introduction. No such a thing, however, was 
needed in the Colony as it then was, and my dogs 
proved sufficient introduction to a brother sports¬ 
man. I made, I believe, some ridiculous offer, and 
joined the party; and such was my keenness for 



the sport, that I verily jumped at the proposal to 
sleep under one of the wagons, both of which were 
crammed full up to the very tent, and one topped 
up with a boat, keel uppermost. But I would then 
rather have slept in six inches of water than not 
have gone at all. This trip consisted chiefly in the 
slaughter of sea-cows (as the hippopotamus is 
here called), which abounded in St. Lucia Bay, in 
the unhealthy season, just as if that God-forgotten 
land, as I have sometimes almost thought it, did 
not present sufficient drawbacks in itself, or hard¬ 
ships enough to encounter in everyday occurrences, 
without seeking out death. But so it was, and if 
older heads had only been placed upon the shoulders 
of the enterprising and the young, I might not 
have had to tell how out of nine hunters who 
went out full of vigour and hope, in all the ardour 
of enterprise, Gibson and myself alone returned, 
enervated and prostrate after months of insensibility 
in Kaffir kraals. I would gladly forget, and must 
pass by, some of the details of that trip. 

Within three weeks from my landing we started— 
three wagons, seven white men, and lots of Kaffirs. 
The powder ordinances being very strict in those 
days, every wagon searched, and none allowed to 
leave town or cross the Tugela with more than 
ten pounds of powder, we each of us shouldered 
our weapon and carried ten pounds of powder on 
our backs, done up in a sort of knapsack fashion, 
till we had crossed the Tugela, the boundary of 



the Colony, seventy miles distant, when we pitched 
all into the wagons. Near the Umvoti, forty miles 
from Durban, we each hired a Kaffir to attend 
upon us individually, it being strictly prohibited 
to order another man’s Kaffir to do anything for 
you, as they have a great objection to wait on any 
but their own master, whom they generally attend 
faithfully, honestly, and willingly. When they 
understand your wishes, they are most obliging ; 
but most of the rows between black and white 
originate from their misunderstanding what you 
wish them to do. Two more white men joined 
us across the Tugela, Monies, a Scotchman, a capital 
and experienced hunter, but rash and daring to 
foolhardiness, and Price, as nice and gentlemanly 
a man as ever lived, and who was, I believe, a 
son of Sir Charles Price, the London banker. They 
both died, poor fellows, of fever, together with 
two others of the party, M‘Queen and Arbuthnot 
(the latter a fellow-passenger), within two months of 
our start. We got on very slowly, no one being 
in any hurry apparently, and as it was the rainy 
season, the rivers detained us, and the tracks were 
very heavy. My occupation, and indeed that of 
all, except the three wagon-drivers, was to shoot 
game — bucks, ducks, peaus, or anything we could 
get for the party, and I soon got into White’s good 
graces by my success and perseverance. It was 
the very thing of all others I had been longing for, 
and in those days I worked like a horse, and the 



older hands were very glad to be saved the trouble. 
Reitbucks were very plentiful, duikers, and farther on, 
steinbucks ; and I could imagine no greater enjoy¬ 
ment than in shooting them, till every bone in my 
body ached again with sleeping on the wet ground. 
We had more or less wet every day, and frequently 
cold soaking rain all night. We tried to make our¬ 
selves more comfortable by fencing on the weather- 
side and cutting a deep trench round between the 
wheels, as the water came in more from underneath 
than above, but on wet nights, do what we would, 
we generally found ourselves in a pool of water in 
the morning — a lot of Kaffirs at our feet curled up 
like dormice in their blankets, and generally sleep¬ 
ing through everything, and a host of wet and 
dirty,, muddy, shivering, dreaming dogs on the top 
of us. The grass, which grew to a tremendous height, 
was so saturated, that one might just as well walk 
through a river, so there was no use in putting on dry 
clothes in the morning. Three were snugly housed 
in the wagons, and six of us had this fun to endure. 
Occasionally some of us tried the boat-wagon, but 
we found it like a cage I have heard of, made by 
one skilled in the refinement of cruelty, in which 
there was no possibility of either sitting, standing, or 
lying ; and eventually, I believe, we all gave that up 
as being, though dry, infinitely worse, for a con¬ 
tinuance, than any amount of rain. 

On the 7th of January (1852) one of the party killed 
a sea-cow calf—very good food, tasting something 



like veal; and I lost myself out buck-shooting on 
the plains of the Inyesan, but eventually found my 
way back in the dark, guided by signal-guns fired 
from the wagons, the plan we always adopted when 
any of our party were missing after sunset. 

On the 12th, while treking leisurely along early, 
our whole party were put into a great flurry and 
excitement by seeing a large bull elephant cross 
some 400 yards ahead, quite unconscious of any 
danger. W e were in so great a hurry unstrapping 
our guns from the sides of the wagons, that all 
of us, except White, forgot to take our bandoliers 
and more bullets. Four of us went on foot after 
the elephant as hard as we could run. As he 
was going up wind on the open, he did not hear 
us till we were within twenty yards, when White 
shouted, and he immediately turned half round; 
snap went White’s gun ; Arbuthnot and myself shot 
him behind the shoulder, and Ellis also, with a 
little twaddling weapon fifty to the pound. White 
meantime capped again, and, just as the elephant 
appeared hesitating whether to charge or not, gave 
him a good shot in the middle of the shoulder-blade. 
With a terrific scream the elephant turned and went 
off at a great pace, evidently crippled by the last 
shot. Eventually Ellis, myself, and Fly brought 
him to bay in some reeds three miles on, and the 
former, taking advantage of a commanding rock, 
on the top of which we were comparatively safe, 
gave him no less than nineteen bullets out of his 



pea-shooter (most of which we afterwards extracted 
from the elephant’s ear) ere White, whose wind was 
long since exhausted, at length got up and settled 
him with the fourth ball. Seeing the spoor of a 
large troop gone ahead (this old chap bringing up 
the rear proving that delays are dangerous), we 
broiled a rasher on the spot for breakfast, hard 
and tough as a halter, and away on the spoor some 
nine or ten miles, sending word to the wagons to 
outspan, and for a relay of powder and bullets; 
but we never came up with them, and supposed 
they had taken alarm at hearing the shooting. 
Got back tired, at night, to a supper of elephant’s 
heart, very tender and good ; and breakfasted on 
the foot baked in a large hole, very glutinous and 
not unlike brawn, 

1HA.—Went out duck-shooting at the mouth 
of the Umlilas ; it being high tide, the wagons were 
obliged to wait some hours to cross. Had capital 
sport; heaps of wildfowl of all varieties, and very 
tame, and eventually bagged as many as I could 
hang round my waist-belt. As the sun was going 
down, and I saw the wagons ascending the opposite 
hills, having crossed at the drift some miles higher 
up, I endeavoured to cross opposite where I then 
was, though I had previously seen many crocodiles 
in the river. I got more than two thirds across, and 
was on a kind of island not deeper than my knees, 
and before me the stream ran deep and fast, about 
thirty yards wide. I had my gun and ammunition, 



all the ducks, and a heavy pair of shooting-boots, 
though the rest of my attire was light enough, 
consisting only of shirt and gaiters. Still I thought 
I could manage it, and pushed slowly off, making 
very short strokes with my arms for fear of losing 

my gun, as it was laid across just under my chin, 
and I think I might have succeeded, had I not just 
at that moment seen the head of a huge crocodile, 
above stream, sailing down upon me, leaving a 
wake like a steamer behind him. I need hardly 
say I struck out legs and arms for my life, utterly 
unmindful of my gun, and in a few vigorous strokes 
made the opposite bank, breathless and frightened, 



with the loss of my gun. The following morning 
Arbuthnot, Monies, Ellis, and myself went to try and 
recover it, and dived alternately, one firing shots 
from the shore, meanwhile, to scare the crocodiles. 
As the gun was a very valuable one, before relin¬ 
quishing the search, we made a capital drag, cut 
out of the bush like a huge rake, but all to no 
purpose, and I was obliged to put up with the 

ISth .— The wagons separated, two going to the 
King’s trading, and the other with five white men 
going to St. Lucia Bay sea-cow shooting. Outspanned 
at the Inseline (a small river), nearly devoured by 

I was here initiated in the art of trading with the 
natives, and bought an ox for four picks or hoes 
which the Kaffirs use for breaking up land to sow 
mealies, and which are worth in the colony Is. 6d. 
each. Beached the Black Umveloose, where we left 
the wagon in charge of a Kaffir chief, and sent the 
oxen some twenty miles back, the country farther 
ahead being very unhealthy for cattle, and indeed, 
for human beings too, only we did not know it at 
the time. Got out the boat, which was the inno¬ 
cent cause of many a miserable soaking night to 
myself and others. The mosquitoes were so dread¬ 
ful on the river banks, that we lighted cow-dung 
fires in every pot we had, and put them inside 
the now empty wagon, and all turned into it, and 
had the choice of two evils — to be worried by 



the mosquitoes, or almost stifled with heat and 
smoke in the wagon. I believe we all preferred 
the latter, and, as sleep was altogether out of the 
question, the general wish of all the party was 
for daylight, when the mosquitoes vanish. White- 
leaded and varnished the boat and made a sail, and 
tried a lot of iron bullets I brought out with me; 
however, they did not answer at all, and I eventually 
threw them all away, as they were much too light and 
flew high, though they penetrated to a great depth. 

Uth .—Launched the first boat ever seen in the 
Black Umveloose, and tried sleeping in a Kaffir hut, 
but I believe it was out of the frying-pan into the 
fire ; heat and mosquitoes intolerable, sour milk and 
Kaffir beer our fare, without meat of any kind. 

25 th .— Tried a bath, to refresh us; three went 
in with a plunge, keeping, however, close to the 
bank, whilst the two on shore shouted, threw in 
big stones, and fired a shot or two to scare the 
crocodiles. Though numerous, they are very timid, 
and I don’t think there is much cause for fear when 
the above precautions are taken ; but although the 
bath refreshed us, none of us could be said to 
thoroughly enjoy it. 

2Qth .—Having drawn lots who was to accompany 
Monies in the boat, he put the walkers across the 
river, on account of its height, and then returned 
and packed the boat with Gibson, to whose lot it fell 
to accompany him. Arbuthnot, Price, and myself 
walked across country with our Kaffirs and a guide 



some twenty-five miles, where we stayed for the 
night, and having forgotten to bring any beads or 
brass wire, I had to tear up my silk pocket hand¬ 
kerchief into lengths about two inches wide, with 
which the Kaffirs ornament their heads by making 
a sort of band across the forehead fastened behind, 
to buy amas, beer, and amobella meal to make 
porridge. Arrived at our destination about 2 p.m. 
the following day, and Monies and Gibson turned up 
about 8 the same evening, having left the boat 
some twenty miles back, not being able to get on 
any farther in consequence of the crocodiles having 
broken the paddles and oars. In drifting fast down 
the middle of the river, Monies saw an elephant 
in the reeds, pulled in and shot her dead within 
fifteen yards, between the ear and the eye, and 
having axes, they cut out her tusks and her ear and 
put them in the boat, and continued their journey. 
The smell of blood most probably made the cro¬ 
codiles so savage, and although Monies shot five 
of them, and three sea-cows, they eventually gained 
the victory, leaving him nothing but the handle 
of an oar to scull the boat ashore. They put all 
their belongings on a sandbank and turned the boat 
over them keel uppermost, and there left her, to 
make for more inviting quarters. 

Went to the bush, and Price, Monies, and Arbuthnot 
being very handy fellows, made sculls and oars, and 
started with eight Kaffirs to carry the goods. On the 
29th they found all as Monies had left them, and 



started again on the 30th for St. Lucia Bay* They 
pulled above twenty miles through a fine country; lots 
of sea-cows, and wildfowl of every description ; and 
about midday were forced to go ashore, as the wind 
and sea were so dead ahead that they found they 
could make no way, and the boat was at times half 
full of water, so they about ship and ran before the 
wind, much to their delight, living on geese and 
water melons (capital things on a hot day); spent 
a very comfortable night before the fires, without 
any blankets ; and reached their destination at 12 
next day, having shot two sea-cows on their way up. 

I had employed my time by going out with the 
Kaffirs. I did not understand a word of their 
language, but by their signs I came to the conclusion 
that I was to remain by a small thorn tree, near a 
corner of the lake full of reeds. Gibson accompanied 
me. The Kaffirs all left us, and I fell asleep, to be 
suddenly awaked by Gibson in a great state of alarm 
bolting up the hill, and calling loudly to me to follow. 
As soon as my eyes were open, I saw a huge buffalo 
bull charging right down the hill towards me, pur¬ 
sued by all the Kaffirs. He came at a headlong 
pace within twenty yards before seeing me, when he 
hesitated an instant, dashed into the reeds and came 
broadside past me, within twenty-five yards, at a 
brisk trot, knee-deep in water, making it fly all over 
him in a shower of crystal. I fired, and luckily, for 
it was a bad shot, broke his spine, and down he fell 
bellowing like a bull-calf; the Kaffirs rushed in pell- 



mell and drove twenty assegais into him, and finished 
him, complimenting me, I suppose, much on my 
prowess, though little credit was due to me, as I 
must confess to having felt very much alarmed at 
the suddenness of the whole thing, not having known 
in the least what I was placed there for. 

31<s£.—Off an hour and a half before sunrise to 
Monies’s sea-cows, which had been towed ashore, and 
on emerging quietly through the bush, and tall, rank, 
soaking grass, to an open place, I saw some nine or 
ten crocodiles high and dry, gorged with sea-cow, and 
fast asleep. One enormous brute, twenty feet long 
at least, I wanted to shoot, but Monies would not 
allow it, as he hoped to get more sea-cows, and he 
feared a shot would frighten them and spoil our 
chances. I was not half satisfied, and said, ‘Well, 
anyhow let me have the satisfaction of giving him a 
kick in the ribs ’ (I was shod with heavy English 
shooting-boots) 4 by way of a memento,’ and was just 
in the act of raising my foot for the purpose when 
Monies suddenly drew me forcibly back, saying, 4 You 
fool, he ’ll crack your legs off like pipe-stumps with 
his tail; ’ and that instant he woke up, and I had 
Monies to thank for saving me a broken bone at 
least, for I never saw anything like the whirl he 
gave his tail as he dashed into the water some fifteen 
yards ahead, and almost immediately floated like a 
log on the top of the water, taking a cool survey of 
his morning visitors. Shot my first sea-cow, and we 
made a lot of sjamboks and whips from his hide, 



such as are commonly used in Africa for driving 
oxen. They are very tough and supple when pro¬ 
perly dressed and brayed, and punish tremendously. 
The sjambok is the threat which the Dutchman in¬ 
variably holds out to a refractory Kaffir. We saw a 
most amusing chase of a broken-winged golden-goose 
by three crocodiles. He fell pinioned on the water, 
and these fellows immediately gave chase, going very 
fast, and leaving a wake like a ship behind them. 
When very hard pressed the goose dived, to be worse 
off than ever, and came up 6 quack, quack,’ from 
abject fear; he managed to flap a bit along the top 
of the water and get a start, but they came up with 
him again, and he at last took the land. We were 
in a boat watching the fun. The crocodiles did not 
follow him, and the poor thing eventually allowed 
me to catch him on land sooner than face his enemies 
in the water again. 

The sea-cow bacon would not keep, owing to the 
damp weather, and we had many hardships to 
endure from the incessant rain. At last, we made 
what is called a hartebeest house, of very tall reeds, 
stuck close together in a kind of trench dug for 
them in bundles, and meeting over head, and they 
kept off a great deal of bad weather; still we were 
rarely what could be called dry at nights, and spent 
three-fourths of almost every day all depths in the 
water, and exposed to scorching suns, towing sea- 
cows ashore, as we generally provided work for the 
day before we breakfasted, for the tusks had to be 



cut out, the best of the meat salted, and all the inside 
fat rendered down. The pots for that purpose were 
scarcely ever off the fire until the bottoms were burnt 
out. We were infamously provided with everything, 
and we used the bladders of the sea-cows to put the 
lard in—necessity being the mother of invention. 

It was no wonder, then, that I was taken ill on the 
10th (February), with racking pains in my head, and 
giddiness and faintness, and was left behind at a Kaffir 
kraal, with a small bag of rice, and my Kaffir, Inyati 
(Buffalo), a big six-foot fellow, to attend to me. He 
was very young, and a magnificent specimen of a 
savage ; he looked after me like a child, and nothing 
could exceed his kindness and attention to all my 
wants, and he risked his fife more than once in my 
service. Monies told the captain of the kraal to give 
me milk when I required it, in return for which he 
would give him a blanket. The captain promised 
to do so, but never brought me a drop, and Inyati 
used to go into the cattle-kraal in the middle of the 
night and bring me my tin cup full, holding about 
a pint, and see that I drank every drop, lest they 
should find him out, in which case his punishment 
for stealing would most probably have been death, 
the only punishment they know of. He would pass 
the day in scouring the country for wild fruits. 
I had a medicine-chest with me, and took lots of 
emetics, ipecacuanha, Hover’s powder, calomel, &c., 
but did myself more harm than good, not knowing 
the quantity, or anything about it, in fact. I passed 
a week on my back on a hard cold floor, a Kaffir 




mat and a blanket being all my covering ; got better, 
and joined the rest of the party, who had been 
having great sport, having killed something like 
twenty sea-cows each. Monies and Arbuthnot, Price 
and Gibson, did not shoot, or could not hit anything. 
They told me I looked as if I had been whitewashed. 
I found things looking much more comfortable — a 
sort of camp erected on some high land overlooking 
the bay, and directly opposite where the river St. Luey 
runs in, drying-houses for meat, &c., and a large 
hartebeest house to sleep in, which was moderately 
dry from above, but terribly wet below, after heavy 
rain ; heard lions and hyenas every night. 

As the Kaffirs all round the country were well 
supplied with meat, they declined any longer to bring 
us meal, beans, beer and milk, in exchange for flesh ; 
so, after cutting what we wanted off a sea-cow, we 
towed her out again into deep water and sunk her. 
Monies did this on two or three occasions, and the 
Kaffirs, quite shocked at such a waste of food they 
are so fond of, ever afterwards brought us small 
baskets of the different produce of the country as 

21s*.—Had a very narrow escape of an upset. 
Monies wounded a calf, and it bellowed out lustily 
close to the boat; the cow immediately rushed at the 
boat, caught it about the stern, and raised it clean 
up on end, half filling the boat with water. Monies 
fired at it, and the shot went into its back and through 
its lungs, and it shortly died. Caught some good 



barbel, and shot a very fine bull; towed him within 
one mile of camp, and had to leave him on account 
of a strong wind and sea running against us. 

28th .—Had great sport at the mouth of the Inyelas. 
Arbuthnot and Monies each shot two, myself four; 
saw upwards of forty altogether. We sailed down 
upon them fast, keeping the boat exactly trim, that 
we might shoot steadily; suddenly lowered the sail 
(a piece of blue calico) flat, and the sea-cows showed 
capital heads, being very curious to know what on 
earth was coming down upon them like that. We 
shot well that day, and Price managed the boat to 
admiration ; and not the least amusing thing was 
seeing scores of Kaffirs going in to bring them out. 
The water at the head of the bay being shallow, they 
take hold of each other’s hands, shouting for their 



very lives to scare the crocodiles, not unfrequently 
many of the middle ones swimming short distances, 
but not loosing their hold of one another for a mo¬ 
ment. The crocodiles seemed afraid to attack so large 
a body, though very far in the lake; the Kaffirs 
showed great courage, but they never ventured into 
deep water singly or in small numbers. 

On the following day, as it was too rough for sea- 
cows, we crossed the lake to have a day’s shooting in 
the bush opposite. After lunching on a wildebeest 
we shot, I left my knife behind, and Monies kindly 
returned with me to find it, foolishly leaving our guns 
behind ; he walked very fast, and was fifty yards ahead 
of me, when three lions walked leisurely out of a bush 
not ten yards in front of him. Monies, having 
drawn a huge clasp-knife, his only weapon, remained 
perfectly firm and collected, and eyed the lions for 
a few seconds, when they made off for the bush, 200 
yards away. Waited some hours for the wind to 
go down, and had hard work to get across. I thought 
we must have been swamped. The sea-cows were 
making up the river, and Arbuthnot stunned one with 
a ball, just touching the brain. We fired alternately, 
three of us putting sixteen bullets, seven to the pound, 
in different parts of her head before killing her. 

March 5 th .—Thunder and rain like a second 
deluge all night. Got up like drowned rats. I 
had my first attack of ague, and Gibson, seeing my 
teeth chattering in my head, and frightful convulsions, 
could stand it no longer, and bolted very wisely with 



two Kaffirs back again to the Black Umveloose, where 
we left the wagon and some surplus stores, and I 
have no doubt in my own mind saved his life by so 

9 th .—Edmonstone arrived with a message from 
White, saying he wms not coming, and we must start 
the Kaffirs off at once with all the sea-cows, ivory, lard, 
bacon, &c., and all the spoils of the chase, amounting 
to fifty-five sea-cows, and only one elephant. Started the 
Kaffirs off on the 11th, heavily laden, a long string of 
them, and we pulled the boat round again to the mouth. 

12 th .—Broke up our camp, as usual, with a huge 
bonfire, and started on foot with thirty Kaffirs carry¬ 
ing ; paid them on arrival with brass wire and 
blue salempore, or calico. I did not arrive till 
the 15th, dead knocked up, the journey quite 
overpowering me in my weak state. Inyati, my 
Kaffir, stalked ahead, carrying everything but my 
gun, which I was forced to lug along myself; 
and many a time during the march, being quite 
exhausted, I was obliged to knock under, and lay 
down under a shady tree till I had recovered. 
After calling and shouting in vain for me to 
come on, he would leave me, and apparently go 
on his journey. He could not have been carrying less 
than eighty pounds weight of one thing and another, 
principally a huge calabash of fat, with which they 
smear their bodies all over, and value it immensely, 
and therefore could not possibly render me any assist¬ 
ance ; but his going away was only a make-believe, to 



try and induce me to follow, as the faithful fellow 
always returned to look me up. I at last, however, 
reached the wagons completely exhausted, and very, 
very ill, and shall have a wholesome recollection of 
that walk as long as I live. Found Gibson and Charley 
Edmonstone very ill, and joined them. Monies, 
Gibson, and Price arrived the same night without the 
boat, not being able to pull up against the stream, or 
to get her carried by Kaffirs. I was very much worn 
out from the cold and incessant rain. 

On the 16th we started for Katal, and I can give 
from this date but a very poor account of anything 
more that occurred, as I must have had many days’ 
insensibility myself. What I do recollect was that 
Arbuthnot and Monies joined the wagons again on the 
20th, after two very hard days’ elephant-hunting on 
foot, during which Arbuthnot killed one. Arbuthnot 
complained of being very ill, and threw himself down 
in the hut, from which he never rose, dying the fol¬ 
lowing day of fever and ague. We made the best of 
our way to Katal to get advice for the rest of the 
sick, but on reaching our destination poor Price died 
also, within forty miles of the town. Monies stayed 
behind to bring out another wagon, having never 
had an hour’s illness, when he suddenly took despe¬ 
rately ill, and died next day. M c Queen reached 
Durban, where he died in a few days, though he 
never went into the unhealthy country at all; Purver, 
Hammond, and Etty, three elephant-hunters of White’s 
party, also died in the Zulu country about the same 



time; Gibson, Eclmonstone, Charley Edmonstone, and 
myself eventually, but not for nearly twelve months, 
got better again. We were all, I think, carried out of 
the wagons in Durban more dead than alive, and I 
shall never forget the very great kindness and atten¬ 
tion I received from Mr. and Mrs. Tyzack, to whose 
house I first w T ent on landing in the colony, and where 
I was now taken. In the course of a few weeks, I 
was able, by the advice of my physician, to go up 
to Pieter Maritzburg for change of air, where Mr. 
Collins, the post-master and a fellow-passenger of 
mine, most kindly took me into his house, treated 
me with the utmost attention, and forestalled my 
every want. It is to Mrs. Collins’s nursing and care 
— and all the little delicacies, so grateful and 
refreshing to a sick man, which a woman’s fore¬ 
thought can alone supply—that I am indebted for 
my eventual recovery, after a very long illness. 
On first getting into the scales, on being able, with 
assistance, to get about a little, I only weighed 
five stone and eleven pounds; but laid on weight 
again, shortly after, almost as fast as I must have 
lost it, and regained strength altogether, on the high 
lands of the Inanda, about twenty-two miles from 
Durban and nine from the sea, where I joined 
White on a 9,600 acre farm of Proudfoot’s, built a 
w^attle and dab-house, and existed there, almost 
alone — I can hardly call it living — for two years 
or more, I should think, selling cattle to Kaffirs, 
which White traded in the Zulu country and brought 



or sent out to me. I have sometimes sold forty or 
more in one day, and had upwards of 600 on the 
place at one time, averaging, anywhere in those days 
before the lung sickness, from 10s. to 2 l. a head, for 
which the Kaffirs in Natal always paid cash. 

It was a horrid weary, solitary, monotonous life ; 
not often could I prevail upon anyone to come 
and stay with me, certainly not unless driven to 
it, as was not unfrequently the case, by having no 
other home and no money -— when they would pay 
me a visit till something better turned up. Cer¬ 
tainly I had no great inducement to offer to them to 
remain: lean fowls, salt beef and rice, and heavy, 
ill-baked bread, was our fare, varied occasionally by 
bucks, partridges, and bustards; tea and coffee our 
only beverage. I must not, however, omit oceans 
of milk, most of which the Kaffirs and dogs ran 
through, and I won’t say but that it might have been 
possible to have been very comfortable; all I can 
say is, that the experience I had of it gave me such 
a wholesome dread of the like ever again occurring, 
that I took to the wandering gypsy-life I have ever 
since led. I was never without two or three horses 
and a host of dogs, and, though they assisted very 
materially, together with my rifle and shot guns, 
to get through the days, yet the long evenings, the 
everlasting roar made by my Kaffirs, frequently 
continuing half the night, rats squeaking, gnaw¬ 
ing, and scraping in every room, and almost 
everything that I brought out being long since 



eaten into shreds by white ants, which were fast 
undermining the posts and walls of our habitation, 
made me think another Zulu trip would be prefer¬ 
able to remaining alone any longer ; consequently, 
I shut up the establishment, and went in again the 
following year. 

My nearest neighbours were Mr. Lindley, a mis¬ 
sionary from the American Mission Society, a man 
most deservedly respected and esteemed by all in 
the colony, his amiable wife and charming family, 
at whose hospitable house I always felt myself quite 
at home. I used frequently to ride over on Sundays 
to Kaffir service, or whenever I could frame an 
excuse for making a break in my existence, and, after 
passing an evening with him and his united family, 
it put me so much in mind of my own home, 
that I used to feel in a better frame of mind for 
weeks to come, though the contrast was very great 
between his cheerful, comfortable house, and happy 
family, and my own solitary, dismal-looking abode— 
a deal table and a lot of velt stools and wagon chests 
the only furniture, and myself the only inhabitant. 

One day, at St. Lucia Bay, after partly recovering 
from my first attack of fever, we went sea-cow 
shooting, and I was landed on a small island among 
the reeds, knee deep in water and very warm. 
After waiting some time for a shot, and feeling very 
weak and weary, I beat down a big bundle of reeds 
and sat upon them, my legs dangling in the water, and 
went fast asleep. Meantime, Arbuthnot and Monies 



were shooting and driving sea-cows, which showed 
good heads past my hiding-place, and they could 
not imagine why I did not shoot, but in the excite¬ 
ment of their own hunting forgot where they had 
left me, and poor Monies said they hallooed in vain; 
but he had noticed three or four of the largest 
crocodiles swimming backwards and forwards in one 
place, and close into the island, and on pulling in 
found me fast asleep within fifteen yards of these 

pleasant companions, who, no doubt, would soon 
have made a meal of me. All the sympathy my 
unenviable and dangerous position excited was 
being soundly rated for going asleep and not bag¬ 
ging a couple of sea-cows ; but I felt too grateful 
for being rescued to be angry in my turn. 

Whilst on the subject of crocodiles, I will relate an 



anecdote that happened to me on the St. Luey’s 
month, where it runs into St. Lucia Bay. I shot a 
goose, almost full grown, though a flapper, and 
he was drifting nicely to my feet, when he un¬ 
accountably disappeared. Not taking particular 
notice at the time, I thought lie might possibly 
have partly recovered and dived. Gibson was with 
me at the time, and, disappointed of our intended 
roast, as we had not breakfasted, I shot another, and 
he likewise disappeared in the same place and manner. 
There being plenty, I shot a third, and, determined 
not to lose this one, went gradually into the river to 
meet him, armed with a heavy lancewood loading-rod 
shod with iron, and had nearly got up to my middle, 
making a tremendous noise and splashing to scare 
the crocodiles, when, just as I was stretching out my 
arm to reach my goose, he suddenly went under 
water. I had no fears in those days, and did not 
know the real danger, so I made a grasp and caught 
the goose by the leg, striking the water as hard as 
ever I could. In an instant the goose came in halves, 
the legs, back, and some of the entrails falling to my 
share, Mr. Crocodile getting the better half, and two 
or three violent blows on the nose into the bargain. 
I need hardly say I lost not an instant in getting 
ashore again, and did not think much at the time 
(which is often the case) of what a foolish thing it 
was to do, and what a narrow escape I had had. 
It is only once in a man’s lifetime he does these dare¬ 
devil sort of things, and it is wonderful how lucky 



he invariably comes off; but a few more years, and a 
wider experience, make him as cautious as those 
whom he once thought timid. It is equally difficult 
for youth and age to hit that golden mean, which is 
no doubt the best way in hunting, as in other things, 
to attain the main object — bagging your game. 



1853 . 


July \hth.— We started on our Zulu expedition 
from the Inanda with two wagons, Gibson and 
myself going on horseback across country. We got 
out of our way, and fell in with a hospitable Scotch¬ 
man and his wife. On going up a steep hill, 
leading two horses, I went to touch up one that 
was hanging back, when my mare took fright, and, 
after several plunges, succeeded in kicking me in 
the stomach and arm, though not very severely. 
I was able to go in pursuit in a few minutes, and, 
after more than two hours’ hard chasing, suc¬ 
ceeded in driving her into a Kaffir kraal. At 
sunset I reached Fuller’s, where the wagons had just 

YJtli .—After sundry 4 doctors,’ concoctions of rum, 
eggs, and new milk, we inspanned and got under 
weigh to the Tongaart. We loaded the wagons with, 
two muids (360 lbs.) of mealies, Edmonstone’s traps, 
and a host of blankets, treked on some eight miles 
by moonlight, and outspanned for the night. 



18 th .—We were delayed in starting by the oxen 
having strayed. We treked to the Umslali, saddled 
up and rode to Maclean’s, where we took in a 
sack of potatoes, and stored our pockets with 
capsicums. I killed a koran. 

KM.—Again we commenced the day by losing 
the oxen, which were not found till after midday. 
We reached the Umvoti after dark. I made two 
nose-bags for my horses, and had some good fun 
trying to make my mare stand on the velt, every 
attempt being a signal failure. She set my nooses 
at defiance, and ended by breaking the bridle. 

2(M.—To-day I engaged two Kaffirs, Jack and 
Jacob; and brought a muid of mealies for the 
horses. On coming into a mud sluit, down a steep 
bank, the sudden check of the wagon threw me 
off the box, under the near wheel, which passed 
over above my knee. I rolled out of the way of 
the other wheel, and fortunately escaped without 
further injury than a very severe bruise. Though 
I had no bone broken, my thigh swelled very much, 
and the shaking of the wagon increased the irritation 
and gave me great pain. It was a wonderful escape, 
as there were 3,000 pounds weight of picks in the 
wagon, and nothing but the fact of the ground being 
very soft where I fell could have saved a broken 
thigh; the swelling was so rapid that my trousers 
had to be slit up with a knife in order to get them 
off, and for the next twelve hours I had two Hot¬ 
tentot women, the wives of the drivers, rubbing in 



turpentine and oil, their infallible remedy for bruises. 
Their beautifully formed, delicate, diminutive hands, 
ancles, wrists, and feet, a marked feature in all 
Hottentots, presented a singular contrast to their 
repulsive monkey-like faces. 

216^.—We got as far as the Umvoti, where we 
joined Gassiot’s wagon, which had been waiting our 
arrival for three weeks; treked on some six miles, 
with four wagons and a host of Kaffirs^ Hottentots, 
men, women, and children of all sorts, colours, and 
sizes, who, having got possession of a case of gin 
that Gibson had in his wagon, spent the most noisy, 
quarrelsome, abusive night I ever witnessed. 

On the 22nd we crossed the Tugela, the boun¬ 
dary of the colony, half a mile wide, without 
accident, the river being very low, and treked on 
about four miles, where we met Mr. Clifton of 
Lytham, a lieutenant in the Bifie Brigade, who was 
also on a hunting trip, and had been waiting our 
arrival some days. He was at a low ebb ; a friend 
of his, Mr. Fletcher, having just been killed by a 
cow-elephant, which they were about to shoot, 
when it charged and killed Mr. Fletcher before a 
shot had been fired. This was the first they had 
seen; rather an unfortunate beginning. Mr. Fletcher 
had only been a few days in the colony. 

On the 23rd we crossed the Matakoola, and out- 
spanned four miles beyond. The following morning 
White, Gibson, Steele, and myself mounted at sun¬ 
rise, in quest of elands. We fell in with a herd of 



about seventeen, and gave chase at a killing pace, 
very soon overhauling them. Gibson and Steele 
fired without effect, White giving. a bull a shot 
rather too high up in the shoulder. However, he 
separated from the herd, and Steele gave him a 
finisher about a mile off, where he had taken the 
water and was standing at bay. After a long chase, 
I brought down the largest bull in the troop, shoot¬ 
ing him dead off the pony Billy, being unable to 
pull up and fire, in consequence of my leg being 
still very painful. It was his first essay at elands 
as well as my own, and he proved himself a good 
one, running very stout and fast. After returning 
to camp for breakfast, I rode out again with Clifton 
and twenty Kaffirs to bring the meat home, some 
five or six miles. 

25 th .—We treked on to a high hill called the 
Gun, some ten miles farther; a very cold, raw day, 
with slight showers. Maclean ran against a bank 
in going into a sluit, got pitched off the box, and 
nearly upset the wagon on the top of him. We saw 
a fine herd of elands, but are keeping them for 
to-morrow. I made my first attempt at preserving, 
on the head of a cow-eland I shot yesterday, and 
found it a long, tedious job. I engaged another 
Kaffir, Mafuta (Grease) by name, a strong, likely- 
looking fellow. 

2 Qth .—This morning we found that Maclean’s after¬ 
ox, Basket, had been killed by a lion. We treked 
on a few miles and then outspanned, with a fine herd 



of elands in full view. We saddled and went in 
pursuit, the ground being very heavy and boggy. 
Clifton and myself tried to head them and bring 
them to the wagon, but they made exactly the 
contrary way. After a very hard and long burst, 
Clifton shot a calf, and about two miles farther I 
put a ball through the ribs of a fine old bull, but as 
Billy was dead beat, I did not bag him. 

The next day we treked on to the Umlilas, where 
we waited five hours for the river to go down, and 
outspanned for the night on the top of the hill on 
the other side. On the 23th we crossed the Um- 
slatoosi, a large party: five wagons, seventy oxen, 
fifty men, women, and children, twelve horses, and 
eleven dogs. The following day, however, this 
number was considerably reduced by the departure 
of eleven of the Kaffirs to trade for different mem¬ 
bers of our party. 

On the 30th we crossed the Impangane, a small 
river, near which we had to remain for several days. 
I got a good soaking in the bush, looking for guinea- 
fowl without success. As I had done my leg no 
good by the walk, I laid down in the wagon, 
eating cheese and jam, and enjoying Sponge’s 
c Sporting Tour.’ The game here was very scarce 
and wild ; but we were well supplied with milk, 
amas, tchualla, mealies, Kaffir corn, and all the 
Kaffir produce, and we had some laughable scenes 
in our bartering. 

We were much amused by the bellows used by 




two Kaffir smiths, who were trying to mend one of 
the wagons which had broken down. The bellows 
consists of a small clay tube or pipe next the 
fire, and two cows’ horns fastened on two leather 
bags, which are kept alternately open and shut. 
It requires some knack to work, but when 
skilfully handled it makes a really good current 
of air, producing a red-hot charcoal fire in a few 

August 6th .—Notwithstanding a dreadfully stormy 
day, high wind and rain, and severe cold, we treked 
on a few miles. In the evening a panther seized Hope¬ 
ful by the throat almost from under the wagon, and 
within five yards of the tent where we were eating 
our supper in the dark, on account of the wind. We 
all sallied out just in time to save the dog, who got 
off with a frightful wound in the throat, which 
swelled nearly as big as his body. It was too dark, 
however, to shoot the panther. 

7th .—Got safely up Panda’s stony hill, the worst 
I ever saw, it being all that twenty-two oxen could 
manage to drag up one wagon; but the poor things 
were labouring under great disadvan tage, most of them 
having the tongue and clove sickness. The next day 
we came in sight of Nedwingu, Panda’s kraal, but 
we were still some fifteen miles distant, owing to the 
hilliness of the country. Our progress was very slow, 
on account of the illness of the oxen. On the 10 th 
we saw a herd of koodoos, and were told by the 
Hottentots who brought us wood at night, that there 



was a herd of buffaloes near the river Umveloose, 
and we agreed to wage war on them at sunrise. 

Accordingly, we were off at peep of day with 
seven guns, and after about three-quarters of an hour’s 
hard walking, over frightfully stony ground, came 
in sight of a herd of about forty buffaloes, but they 
made off out of shot, hearing the noise we made over 
the stones. After two hours’ hard chase, running and 
dodging in all directions, five were brought to bag. 
Steele had a narrow escape; a young bull, with his 
leg broken and his tail shot off, just hit him on the heel 
as he dropped his gun and sprang into a thorn-tree. 
I shot a fine fat young cow at full speed, hard pressed 
by three dogs, right through the spine and lungs. 
She fell bellowing after a few yards, almost on the 
top of the one which had charged Steele, and which 
I afterwards killed myself. The cow I shot was 
claimed by Anton, who had given her the first bullet, 
without the slightest injury ; but the rules of the chase 
are, that the first shot lays claim to the animal, the 
bullet being the proof. Edmonstone had given the 
young bull the first shot, and therefore claimed him, 
so I had my sport for nothing. The Zulus, hearing 
the shooting, came down like so many vultures ; but 
the lazy blackguards refused to lend a hand to carry 
the meat back to the camp, and one fellow was caught 
helping himself to some nice steaks from a leg cut off, 
and ready to be taken to camp, by our own Kaffirs. 
White knocked him over with a heavy stone in the 
ribs, and the rest made themselves scarce for a little 



while. They knew, however, that they would ulti¬ 
mately get the lion’s share of the meat, as it was 
utterly impossible that our party, though twenty 
strong at least, could carry the whole of the meat of 
six buffaloes, especially on such ground—a tremen¬ 
dously steep, stony hill, some four miles from camp — 
and at night they could take all with impunity. 
White, however, kept watch till the choicest parts, 
the tongues, &c. were secured. We got back about 
12 o’clock, and drank a great quantity of tea and 
coffee, and breakfasted on buffalo kidneys — a great 
luxury— a few quails, and a dikkop (thickhead), the 
daintiest bird in the colony, fully equal to woodcock. 
The poor dogs, too, came in for their share, and had 
as much as ever they could cram into them. 

On the afternoon of the 12th we crossed the 
Umveloose, and outspanned within a mile of Ned- 
wingu, Panda’s kraal, which we rode up to see on 
the following morning. It is fully two and a half 
miles round, and contains nearly 2,000 huts. We 
did not see his sable majesty, but were honoured by 
drinking a calabash of tchualla with his prime 
minister Likwazi, through whom we sent presents 
of beads and blankets to Panda. 

The next few days were wet and raw, and all 
hands were busy making and repairing velt shoes. 
One afternoon we were coming well on a fine herd 
of buffaloes sleeping, when a Kaffir hit my unfor¬ 
tunate dog Hopeful with a stone. The dog, who 
was more dead than alive from the effects of the 



encounter with the panther, roared awfully. The 
buffaloes started off, and, though we gave chase as 
hard as we were able, we could never get within shot. 

2(M.—We were early in the saddle, and took dif¬ 
ferent routes to endeavour to circumvent a herd of 
buffaloes which were to be seen from the wagon. 
Edmonstone and myself had just reached our post 
when a bullet whistled most unpleasantly near us, 
closely followed by nine buffaloes. I immediately 
endeavoured to head them back, but the ground was 
so stony and bushy that I only lamed my pony, and 
tore my hands to pieces, without doing any good. I 
frequently got close to them, but before I could dis¬ 
mount they were out of sight in the bushes. Steele’s 
Kaffir broke the leg of a fat young cow. She charged 
straight at one of White’s horses, and the Kaffir who 
was holding him struck his assegai into her ribs. 

On the 22nd, Edmonstone, myself, and three 
Kaffirs set off' to ascend the highest hill in the 
neighbourhood. After walking hard all day we 
reached the bottom, where we bought amas, 
tchualla, meal, &c., with beads : supped sumptu¬ 
ously on a fat peau I killed, and slept in a kraal. 
The next morning we ascended the hill. It was 
a long and heavy pull, but we were rewarded by a 
fine view of the surrounding country, very hilly on 
all sides, but not well wooded. We got back to 
the wagons about noon on the following day, rather 
jaded and footsore. 

31 st .—We all saddled up early to pay a visit to 



Panda. His Majesty, however, was asleep, and liis 
attendants did not dare disturb him. After re¬ 
maining some time we were ordered to go to the 
gate and wait there, so we took huff and rode away 
without seeing him, broke up our camp, made a 
great bonfire of all the huts the Kaffirs had erected, 
and once more proceeded on our journey. We had 
not gone more than two miles when one of Panda’s 
captains came up in a great fury, swearing awfully 
by the bones of Dingaan, Chkka, the much-dreaded 
and cruel, and other renowned warriors of the 
nation, that if we did not immediately turn back, 
an impi (regiment 500 strong) would be down upon 
us and kill us instanter. He was in a great state of 
excitement, would not hear of our outspanning or 
delaying our return a moment, said the signal for 
attack was crossing that watercourse (pointing to a 
running stream not twenty yards ahead) ; and as 
we were entirely in their power, we thought dis¬ 
cretion the better part of valour, and did as we were 
ordered, looking very foolish in both our own and 
our followers’ eyes. Panda had always opposed our 
wish to go that way, and it was bearding the lion 
in his den, and most foolish and misjudged on the 
part of White, to go in direct opposition to his 
orders. On passing his kraal gates we went through 
two lines, at least 200 yards long, of magnificent men, 
armed with assegais, shields, knobkerries, and knives, 
in close file, waiting only the slightest intimation 
from His Majesty to annihilate us instantly. It was a 



nervous moment; I did not half admire it, and all 
our Kaffirs were in the utmost alarm : a dead silence 
was maintained by everyone ; and poor White was 
awfully annoyed and vexed about it. To do him 
justice, I believe, if any of us would have stood by 
him, he would have infinitely preferred shooting 
half a dozen and being spitted himself, to the dis¬ 
grace to white men of having to obey a Kaffir ; but 
it was all brought on by his own obstinacy. 

Likwazi, the prime minister before mentioned, 
came down to us—a fat, good-tempered, jovial fellow 
— made the peace, and eventually all was settled 
amicably; but our long-meditated route was peremp¬ 
torily forbidden, and we were obliged to rest satis¬ 
fied with the shooting Panda thought fit to give us 
in the Slatakula bush, where the old fellow knew 
well there were rarely any elephants worth shooting. 
He is a wily old savage. On Clifton wishing parti¬ 
cularly to see him out of curiosity, though he sent 
many presents to him, the only answer he sent 
was, 4 1 have nothing to say to him; does he think 
me a wild beast, that he is so anxious to see me P 
I won’t see him.’ Nor did he see any of the party 
but White and the interpreter. 

September 1st. — Treked on our way back again. 
Some Kaffir boys told us of a herd of elands. 
White, Edmonstone, and myself went in pursuit, 
and after a sharp burst round a big hill, White came 
upon them. I also ran to get a shot, and we each 
of us had two shots at not more than a hundred 



yards, every bullet telling into some part of them, 
but none fell, and we had the mortification of seeing 
them all go away and make for the hills, where we 
had no chance of reaching them. 

2nd .—We got safely to the bottom of Panda’s stony 
hill, and parted company with Steele. The next 
day we struck down into a deep valley of the White 
Umveloose, in quest of large game. After some 
very hard climbing, we all returned to the wagons 
with only one eland bull. 

5 th .— Struck off the road, and made for the Slata- 
kula bush. As we were obliged to clear a way for 
the wagons, we made but slow progress. 

1th .—The Kaffirs told us there was a large herd 
of elephants within a few miles. I went in pursuit, 
accompanied by two Hottentots and two Kaffirs; 
supped on a buffalo, which some Zulu Kaffirs had 
killed, and spent a tolerably comfortable night in 
the open air, notwithstanding a few showers of rain. 
At daylight we started again, hunted without any 
encouragement, and returned to the wagons under 
the impression that the Kaffirs were humbugs. 

After cutting our way through the bush with 
great difficulty, on the 10th we came in sight of the 
Black Umveloose, when we saw three rhinoceroses, 
a herd of elands, and a herd of buffaloes from the 
wagons. The greater part of the night we were 
kept awake by lions, tigers, and wolves. Fly, 
venturing too near, was caught and severely bitten 
in the throat by a tiger, but escaped with fife. 



11th. — Crossed the Black Umveloose, a very bad 
drift, and outspanned on some beautiful new grass, 
which was quite refreshing after all the dry, withered 
stuff we had been seeing so long. We saw lots of 
bucks and koodoos. In the afternoon we treked 
on to a Kaffir kraal, where we got oceans of milk, 
amas, &c. The Kaffirs told us that the lions had 
got into the kraal the evening before; we therefore 
drew up the wagons and made the best barrier we 
could for the horses, and all slept with our guns at 
hand. The lions, however, disappointed us. 

On the 12th our party broke up, White’s two 
wagons and Grassiot’s going on to trade. Maclean 
and Edmonstone went on with them, while I took 
up my quarters with Clifton, intending to stay a 
week or so for shooting. The next day we treked 
away from the kraal, the Kaffirs stunning us with 
their noise, and outspanned a few miles off. Leggins 
and I lost the wagon, having misunderstood where 
they were to outspan, and were first initiated into 
the art of making fire with two dry sticks. I saw 
a buffalo bull cantering leisurely in the direction of 
Leggins, and hallooed to him to look out. He had 
seen the bull, and made for a tree as hard as legs 
could carry him. The old bull snuffed danger in 
the wind, but could not make it out, and actually 
stood under the very tree within two feet of Leggins, 
who was so paralysed with fear that he had not 
strength to shoot. It was long before he ventured 
to come down, and then he got off as quickly as he 



could, thinking that he, and not the buffalo, had had 
a wonderful escape. 

14 th. — From the top of a hill I saw two herds 
of what I took for buffaloes, but just as I was going 
after them I had the mortification of discovering 
that they were wildebeests. However, I mounted, 
and seeing two old bull buffaloes standing under 
a tree, managed to get within twenty-five yards, 
when five old bulls jumped up. I rolled over the 
first like a rabbit, shooting him through the lungs. 
I then heard Clifton firing, and rode in that direc¬ 
tion, when we saw a large herd of elands and one 
fine old bull as blue as a slate. The ground was 
bad for a horse, being bushy with long grass and 
full of large stones. I went away, however, at a 
hand gallop, and keeping below the wind and under 
the hill, managed to come up with them. I singled 
out the old bull, and, after some hard riding through 
the bush, losing my hat and tearing my shirt and 
hands, to pieces, I drove him from the herd, and 
shortly afterwards, taking advantage of 100 yards 
of open, tumbled off and gave him a ball high up 
on his hind leg, but without doing him much injury. 
He kept along at a swinging pace through the bush; 
I could not wait to load, for fear of losing sight of 
him. The ground was frightful, and I thought I 
never should have come up with him, though Billy 
carried me marvellously. At the edge of a steep 
kloof leading into thick bush, where I must inevita¬ 
bly have lost him, the bull suddenly came to bay, 



and made a stand facing me. I gave him a bullet 
in the breast, and he rolled down to the bottom of 
the kloof. I went down to inspect my prize, but 
all my efforts were unavailing to cut his head off, 
from the position in which he had fallen, and I was 
obliged to leave the noble animal for the lions, 
wolves, jackals, and vultures. 

15 th.— Started off with a host of Kaffirs of both 
sexes to see what the lions had left of my eland, 
but on. my way I saw an old bull buffalo making 
away for some thick bush, quickened my pace, and 
he crossed me into a kloof; I jumped off and shot 
at him, as he appeared broadside out of the kloof, 
and fancied I broke his fore leg. As he went away 
very lame I gave chase, and came up with him 
standing under a tree. I was edging off a little to 
get a good broadside at him, when he charged so 
suddenly and fiercely, and so fast, that Billy whipped 
round like a shot, and dashed off at full speed through 
the trees, sending my gun spinning yards away out 
of my hand, and a strong branch, catching me across 
the breast, all but unhorsed me. The enraged 
brute was for 200 yards within two feet of Billy’s 
tail, and continued the chase for 400 yards. After 
recovering my gun I followed him into a thick bush 
and gave him a shot, when he again charged, but 
fearing to come out of the bush again, retreated, and 
I lost sight of him. On riding round I saw him 
again, and he forthwith gave chase, but being on 
the open, I was all right this time. I therefore 



allowed him to come close up, but as he would 
persist in facing me, I was reluctant to spend my 
last bullet, and it was long ere I got a shot to my 
liking. At last, however, he gave me a broadside, 
and I gave him a settler. He was certainly the 
savagest old monster I ever had the pleasure of 

I had to return to camp seven or eight miles in a 
woful plight, minus my hat, and my shirt torn to 
ribbons, exposed to a fearful hot sun, and my whole 
body blistered and sunburnt, giving me great pain, 
and my throat and tongue parched up for want of 
water. I was well greased with eland fat from 
head to foot, which was a great relief to me, but 
for several days I coidd rest in no position from the 
frightful extent of the sun-burns, than which I know 
nothing more painful, as every atom of skin peels off. 
I found my eland nearly eaten up, but I brought his 
horns back as a trophy. 

16th .—Went out on foot, as Billy had had two 
hard days in succession. I saw a buffalo canter away, 
and then stop in a thick bush. I followed, got a shot, 
and heard the bullet tell. He was a long way off, and 
going at full speed. I had another shot without effect, 
followed on, and next saw him lying at full length. 
I spoke to the Kaffirs, when the beast immediately 
jumped up and faced us. The Kaffirs disappeared 
like smoke. I gave him a shot meant for the breast, 
but it struck him in the neck and he at once charged. 
Fortunately, Crafty was between us, and he made a 



furious onset on her, which gave me time to load 
again and change my position. The poor brute was 
evidently severely wounded, and again lay down. I 
had two more shots at him, but he was so tough that 
it was not before the fifth shot that he was dead, and 
then the Kaffirs reappeared. 

17th .—'Clifton lent me a horse, and I rode over to 
see the other party, having heard that they were at 
a kraal only a few miles off. Edmonstone had been 
at a great Kaffir hunt, at which all the natives far and 
near turned out. They were delighted with their sport. 
One Kaffir, however, got a bullet through his foot, 
and as Edmonstone got the credit of it, he was obliged 
to give a cotton blanket worth 3s. by way of com¬ 
pensation. I returned the next day in time for four 
days of regular deluge, which we spent inside the 
tent, killing time as best we could with books, &c. 
I waded entirely through the 4 Soldier of Fortune.’ 

23rd .—Breakfasted on chocolate and dry bread, 
having eaten all our fresh meat during the four days’ 
rain. As the larder was empty we sallied out and 
had a hard day’s work over a great extent of country, 
returning home well laden, long after sunset, having 
bagged two cow-buffaloes and a bush-pig. 

26th .—Fifteen Zulus came down to our camp to¬ 
day, and I turned out to shoot them some meat. We 
travelled a long way without seeing anything, but 
my perseverance was at length rewarded by the sight 
of a troop of buffaloes a long way off. We executed 
a very scientific stalk, and I bowled over a young, 



tolerably fat bull. We lighted a fire and demolished 
a good part of him on the spot, the Kaffirs eating 
alternately a lump of roasted flesh and an equal 
quantity of the inside raw. 

27 tli .—Pouring rain all day. As the wolves plagued 
us much, we set a gun at night and shot an old dog- 
wolf through the head. 

29 th .—We were waked up suddenly by hearing 
one of the oxen bellowing and the dogs barking. 
It was moderately dark, and I seized Clifton’s double 
rifle and rushed out, not knowing where, when I saw 
the driver perched on the top of a temporary hut, 
made of grass, about six feet high, roaring lustily for 
a doppe (cap). I scrambled up just as the poor ox 
ceased his cries, and heard the lions growling and 
roaring on the top of him, not more than fourteen 
yards from where we were, but it was too dark to 
see them. I fired, however, in the direction of the 
sound, and just above the body of the ox, which I 
could distinguish tolerably well, as it was a black one. 
Diza (the driver) followed my example, and as the 
lions did not take the least notice, I fired my second 
barrel, and was just proceeding to load my own gun, 
which Jack had brought me, when I was aware for a 
single instant only that the lion was coming, and the 
same moment I was knocked half a dozen somer¬ 
saults backwards off the hut, the brute striking me 
in the chest with his head. I gathered myself up in 
a second and made a dash at a fence just behind me, 
and scrambled through it, gun in hand, but the 



muzzle was choked with dirt. I then made for the 
wagon, and got on the box, where I found all the 
Kaffirs, who could not get inside, sticking like mon¬ 
keys, and Diza perched on the top. How he got 
there seemed to me a miracle, as he was alongside me 
when the brute charged. A minute or two after¬ 
wards, one of them marched off a goat, one of five 

that were tethered by the foot to the hut which we 
had so speedily evacuated. 

Diza, thinking he had a chance, fired from the top 
of the wagon, and the recoil knocked him backwards 
on to the tent, which broke his fall. It was a most 
ludicrous sight altogether. 



After that we were utterly defeated, and the brutes 
were allowed to eat their meal unmolested, which 
they continued to do for some time, growling fiercely 
all the while. The Kaffirs said there were five in all. 
I fired once again, but without effect; and we all sat 
shivering with cold, without any clothes on, till near 
day-break, wdien our enemies beat a retreat, and I 
was not sorry to turn in again between the blankets. 
I was just beginning to get warm again when I was 
aroused by a double shot, and rushed out on hearing 
that the driver and after-rider had shot the lion. We 
went to the spot and found a fine lioness dead, with 
a bullet through the ribs from the after-rider; a good 
shot, as she was at least 150 yards off. Another had 
entered the neck, just behind the head, and travelled 
all along the spine nearly to the root of the tail. I 
claimed that shot, and forthwith proceeded to skin 
her. I cut out the ball: it proved to be my shot 
out of Clifton’s rifle ; this accounted for her ferocious 
onslaught. The after-rider was rather chopfallen at 
having to give her up to the rightful owner. 

Diza got a claw in his thigh, and the gun which 
he had in his hand was frightfully scratched on the 
stock : rather sharp practice. A strong-nerved old 
Kaffir woman lay in the hut the whole time, without 
a door or anything whatever between her and the 
lions, and kept as still as a mouse all the while. 

30 tii. — Hearing that White was back again at 
the Kaffir chief Umbop’s, Clifton and I rode off to 
see the party, some twelve miles off. Clifton gave 



me a mount on Arab, and we found them well, 
with the exception of Maclean. Their affairs looked 
rather badly on the whole: eight oxen had died, 
several more were very ill, two dogs had been 
carried off by tigers, there was no game, and con¬ 
sequently not much to eat, and they were out of 
coffee and sugar. We got six blankets, some 
brass wire, and black calico, and returned to 

I had the remains of the ox dragged to the best 
spot for getting a shot, if the lions should pay us 
another visit. They did not keep us waiting long. 
In less than an hour after dark they came, and 
immediately began their meal. The night was very 
dark, and we had nothing but their own growls to 
guide us in shooting. We three blazed away in 
succession for a long time. The ox was placed just 
in front of the wagon, about twenty-five yards off, 
but they dragged it away considerably farther. 
Crafty must have had some narrow escapes, for she 
would not come in, but kept up an incessant row all 
the time; and, encouraged by the firing, came to 
very close quarters with them several times. They 
charged her frequently and savagely, but she showed 
great pluck. I saw one lion tolerably distinctly 
once, and fired, when for the first time he uttered a 
fierce roar, and charged at the wagon. We had, 
however, a strong fence between the wagon and 
them, and when the lion lay down about seven yards 
off for a long time, I felt sure he was wounded. He 



made off soon afterwards, and I turned in before they 
all took their departure. 

October 1st .-—Went up to see our last night’s 
work. It was evident that one or more had been 
severely wounded, but we endeavoured in vain to 
trace them. I turned out with my two dogs and 
one Kaffir, Jacob. I was obliged to offer him a 
rewards of 5s. before he would consent to accompany 
me. We gave the dogs the wind, and hunted down 
the nearest kloof. I had not got 400 yards from the 
wagon when I saw that Hopeful winded something, 
but neither growled nor barked, in spite of all the 
encouragement I gave him. He was very near the 
kloof, and came away. At length I mustered courage 
to go down, and, proceeding a short distance, saw an 
old lion dead, at the bottom. A large bullet had 
gone right through his middle, and I was in high 
spirits at my success. 

As I was occupied in skinning the lion, I heard 
three double shots in succession, and rushed out, gun 
in hand, expecting a couple of lions at least, when I 
found Clifton standing over one of the oxen, just 
breathing its last. The lions the night before had 
driven it mad, and he had been obliged to shoot it. 
We had now onlv ten oxen left, and one so ill that it 
could hardly travel. However, on the evening of 
the 2nd, we reached some Kaffir kraals, and the 
lions again favoured us with their company. On 
awaking I looked out of the tent, thinking it was a 
wolf, and that I might get a shot, when I saw one 



lion distinctly, and Hopeful and Crafty barking at 
him furiously. He at length charged against the 
side of the tent, unpegging two of the ropes ; so we 
struck a light, and kept a candle burning till the 
morning. He gave us one fine chance of shooting 
him, but Clifton had given strict orders that no one 
must fire, lest the lion should come into the tent. 

5 th. — Outspanned within a mile and a half of 
the Umveloose. 

Oth. —Jack and I started before daylight, to try 
and bag a wild goose or two, as there are plenty of 
them about the Umveloose, but we had to return to 
our quarters with two brace of quail and a blue 
heron. I had several long shots at geese, but they 
require a heavy dose to bring them down. We got 
back to a splendid breakfast of quail, beautifully 
cooked by Leggins, while the rest were inspanning. 
I followed them shortly on my pony, my Kaffirs 
carrying the kettle, saucepans, dishes, and condi¬ 
ments, and overtaking the wagon at the drift, which 
we crossed in good style, though not without diffi¬ 
culty, as the river was four feet deep, and the 
sand heavy. Seeing two wagons, we outspanned at 
a kraal just before sunset, and drew up alongside. 
Clifton purchased three oxen from a Zulu trader, and 
we passed a jolly evening together, hearing all the 
news; among the rest, that England and France were 
positively at war with Russia. 

10 th .—Clifton and I laboured hard to get a 
black goose, but there was no getting a shot. I was 



up to my waist in water half the day. One ox 
knocked up, and was left behind. 

1 1th. — Sent two Kaffirs for the ox, which was 
unable to rise, so they had to leave him. My dog 
Hopeful also was missing, probably taken by a tiger. 
Jack and I hunted all round, but could find no trace 
of him. There was no doubt, however, as to his 
fate. I had heard Crafty barking furiously in the 
night, but hearing wolves also, I thought it was they. 
All hands turned out to hunt the horses, which had 
strayed, but we soon recovered them. 

12 th. —We reached the Missionary Station, but 
found that the missionary himself had been sent for 
by Umbop, a Kaffir chief, to poison lions ninety or 
a hundred miles off. His good lady was at home, 
but we could make nothing of her. She was a 
Norwegian, and had not the slightest smattering of 
any other language. Clifton, after trying English and 
Kaffir in vain, returned to the charge with French, 
but to no purpose, so we had to give her up. 

12^A.-—Outspanned four miles beyond the Umve- 
loose. I tried to get a klip-springer among the 
rocks, but returned unsuccessful, having seen only 
three. I saw lots of baboons. Mosquitoes for 
the first time bit and plagued me a good deal in 
the night. Sent a Kaffir to the bay for letters and 

lhth\ —Having been told of a herd of elands, we 
saddled and went in pursuit, but it came on very wet, 
and we made for a kraal, without seeing them. The 



wagon appeared shortly after, and we outspanned a 
mile from the Inyesan. I cut the head of a koran clean 
off with a bullet, and found it in the long grass some 
seven yards from his body. 

17 th .—Turned out on Billy to look for a buffalo, 
and came on a herd of about fifteen, which made off 
at full speed a long way ahead of me. Billy soon 
overtook them, and I singled out an old bull, and 
gave him a bullet just as he dashed into the bush 
near the Inyesan. The herd crossed the river, and 
appeared on the other side ; and I had great diffi¬ 
culty in following them. Eventually I killed a toler¬ 
ably fat cow, and my Kaffirs told me they had seen 
the old bull go away with a broken leg. I also shot 
a pig, after a sharp burst, Crafty bringing him to 
bay. We brought home as much as three Kaffirs and 
a pony could carry. 

1 %th —To-day I gave Billy a rest, and turned out 
with a half-bred cur to shoot quail; got three brace, 
as well as a partridge. A honeybird met us, and 
called us vigorously. We followed, and he took us 
to a bees’ nest, but, owing to the incessant rains, there 
was but little honey in it. There was, however, a 
good deal of fun and excitement in following the 
little fellow. 

19 th .—Went out in quest of elands, Clifton, his after¬ 
rider, and myself, taking different roads. After a long 
ride, just as I had ascended a very high hill, I saw a 
large herd, but could not make them out till they 
began to move. The wind and ground were both 



in my favour, and, after some hard work, I came 
within about 600 yards of them. They were very 
wild and shy, having been much shot at lately, and 
they had taken alarm at three Kaffirs who came 
along the road, and they were taking themselves off 

Crafty dashed into the herd and brought out a 
cow straight across a heavy bog. I was luckily on 
the right side, so I galloped off as fast as I could, 
and, after a long burst, got within fifty yards of her. 
Kow or never, thought I, as she went like the wind. 
I jumped off, fired and missed her. Away she went 
at a swinging trot. I looked at my pony: he was 
ready for another burst, and I took up the spoor of 
the rest of the troop. I soon came upon them cross¬ 
ing a bog, and making in my direction. I managed 
to get Billy over the bog with great difficulty, gave 
him a minute to recover his wind, mounted, and, as 
I had saved half a mile, I was on the middle of 
the troop instantly. I shortly drove the old bull 
from the troop, and made play. In consequence of the 
heavy state of the ground and the distance I had 
come, Billy was labouring hard under me, and, I 
fancied, rather losing ground. I thought exhausted 
nature could hold out no longer, so I pulled up within 
fifty yards of my bull, but I was so shaken that I 
again missed. Before I had reloaded, however, 
Billy had recovered himself, and fretted so much to 
be off that I had difficulty in ramming my bullet 
home ; and he was again galloping at a break-neck 



pace before I was fairly in the saddle. The bull 
was some quarter of a mile ahead, going at a steady 
trot, with Crafty at his heels. 

I gradually made up the lost ground, saving and 
nursing my pony to the utmost, and had been riding 
a long way within fifty yards of him, utterly unable 
to get an inch nearer, when I saw Clifton and his 
after-rider meeting him. Clifton turned out of the 
way, to let me have the whole honour to myself. The 
bull rushed broadside past him within twenty yards, 
a sore temptation for a man with a double-barrelled 
Westley Bichards in his hand ; but he allowed the 
bull to pass him unmolested. Billy, on seeing the 
other horses, made a last spurt and ran right up to 
the bull, horse and mail doing all that nature could. 
The brute strained every nerve to reach the 
river, which was within one hundred yards of 
him, but it was not to be. I jumped off and 
bowled him over, giving him the ball through his 
tail, high up and right into his lungs, and he fell 
dead in a few yards ; Billy and I ran down like a 
mill-stream. I took off saddle and bridle, and the 
pony was himself again in no time. My prize was 
a noble brute ; his skin measured ten feet, cut off 
at the neck. The Kaffirs came up in about an hour, 
and we skinned him. He was in first-rate order, 
and I returned to camp, after having cut him up 
and taken out his fat, with the breast across my 
saddle. The Kaffirs lighted a fire, and stayed there 
all night feasting. 



21 st .—After a splendid breakfast of marrow-bones 
and buffalo tongues, I went out again, my Kaffir 
leading Billy. I was determined not to mount, un¬ 
less I saw elands or buffaloes. I took my blanket, 
as I intended to stay out all night. After about 
three hours’ walk, I saw a large herd of elands, and 
got unperceived within 500 yards of them. I did 
not mount till the last moment, when away I went 
at the top of Billy’s speed. I was soon in the 
middle of the troop, and singled out the largest bull. 
Crafty and Billy stuck to him like leeches. He 
bounded and tore away, and made every effort to 
regain the troop, but in vain, so he rushed down 
hill for the Matakoola river. I stopped Billy at 
the edge of the river among the reeds, and, just as 
my bull appeared on the opposite bank, I shot him 
dead through the heart. I had just loaded, and was in 
the act of capping, when two cows rushed frantically 
by me and up the opposite bank. I was just in time 
to stop the hindermost, shooting her through the 
tail and heart; I found her dead within 100 yards 
from where I struck her. A moment after, two of 
Walmsley’s Hottentots came tearing up on horseback, 
just in time to be too late, and have the satisfaction 
of seeing the elands a mile ahead, on the farther 
side of the Matakoola. We cut off the tails of the 
two I had killed as trophies, and took the fat and 
some of the best of the meat, and hid it under some 
stones, carrying with us the breast of one, and four 
marrow-bones, and made our way towards the 



Matakoola mouth, to try for a sea-cow. It was 
nearly dark before we arrived. We saw a lot of 
sea-cows, but they were very shy. I struck two, 
and think I killed one, but there was no sign of 
him in the morning, and if he was really dead he 
must have drifted some distance down the river. 

It rained incessantly the whole night, and we 
were miserably uncomfortable, as we had no shelter 
whatever, but lay smoking and steaming, and got 
up as stiff as biscuits the next morning, without a 
dry rag to put on, some fourteen miles from camp, 
and the grass in many places up to the waist, and of 
course soaking wet. To complete the delights of 
African shooting, it was so murky and foggy that 
I never could have found my way back alone; but 
the Kaffirs have a wonderful instinct that way. On 
reaching the camp, I got a cup of hot coffee and 
dry clothes, and was soon all right, but sustained a 
grievous disappointment at receiving no letters from 
home; the Kaffir we despatched having returned 
from the bay bringing word that there were none 
for me, though three mails at least must have 

White and the rest of the party got so far back 
again all well, but they had had no sport. I rode 
over to see them in the afternoon, and spent a very 
pleasant couple of hours with them. I got a sack of 
mealies for my unhappy pony, which greatly re¬ 
joiced me. 

23 rd .—White and his party treked on, intending 



to cross the Tugela as soon as practicable, and get 
into the bay, as they were nearly out of the common 
necessaries of life. 

21th .—Met George Shadwell and his party re¬ 
turning, who said they had killed no less than 150 
sea-cows and 91 elephants ; a most splendid hunt, 
two parties, and a whole posse of guns. We even¬ 
tually reached our different destinations all right, 
and separated in Durban, many of us never to meet 

This will serve to give the reader some idea of 
the sort of life led in a hunting expedition. It is 
miserable enough at times, but altogether it is a 
roving, careless, wandering life, that has charms 
for me. We do just as we like, and wear what is 
most convenient. When on foot, a blue and white 
shirt and a stout pair of gaiters, with the addition of 
a cap and shoes, are all that I burden my body 



1854 . 


April 10 tli. — Left Natal Bay, and, having only 
just returned from a trip over the Drakensberg 
Mountains buying horses, 1 rode round by the 
Inanda to get a small outfit of shirts, &c., and found 
the sole occupants of the place one solitary young 
cock, which fled at my approach, and a wonderful 
pig, which always keeps himself in good condition, 
defends himself against all the attacks of wild 
animals, and has a strong attachment to the place, 
where he was brought a suckling. I met White by 
appointment, and was agreeably surprised at seeing 
Harris on the box of Proudfoot’s wagon. He and 
Maxwell were setting out for a couple of months’ 
shooting. Rode on to the Nonoti, where I remained 
two days, and, not knowing what to do, had a great 
washing; of clothes at the river. 

15 th. —Started off again on horseback, with three 
Kaffirs, across the Tugela, intending to stay a few 
days with Edmonstone’s party, who, I heard, were 
waiting for us at the Matakoola river, about twenty- 



four miles ahead. I spent the night at a friend’s 
encampment, and rode the next day across as 
rough and bushy a country as can well be imagined. 
Missing my way, I was obliged to sleep in a Kaffir 
kraal. At sunrise I was again in the saddle, and 
with some difficulty found the encampment, but my 
friends had gone. Disappointed of my expected 
meal, I had to look out for myself. I came across 
the morning spoor of two buffaloes, and followed 
them into the reeds, but they broke cover and got 
away unseen. Uncommonly hungry, I caught sight 
of three elands a long way off, and gave chase with¬ 
out the remotest hope of coming up with them, as 
they had a long start, and my horse, Justice, was 
wretchedly poor. Mile after mile, however, he just 
managed to hold his ground, the elands trotting on 
at their leisure. Twice I tried to make a spurt, but 
Justice had but one pace. Just, however, as I had 
surmounted a hill, having with some difficulty made 
the horse gallop, I came on a troop of about thirty 
elands. I jumped off and fired at a long distance, 
and broke the hind leg of a. young bull, who 
immediately separated from the herd, and lay down 
on a clump of grass. I finished him with a bullet 
in his breast. I slept out that night, after a heavy 
feed on the eland, of which the Kaffirs reserved for 
my special benefit the tongue and a marrow¬ 

We came across a troop of about thirty elands the 
following day, and tried to stalk them, a Kaffir 



leading the horse beside me. They made off, how¬ 
ever, a long way, and I fired without effect. I 
then endeavoured to mount and give chase, but 
could not, for my life, get the bridle over the head of 
the horse, who was backing, plunging, and rearing 
frightfully, and I had the mortification to see the 
herd going far away, hotly pursued by Venture and 
Fly, two dogs I bought over the Berg, who suc¬ 
ceeded in turning a fine cow out of the herd, and 
baiting her well; but I could do nothing with 
Justice, he was the veriest brute in the world. I 
pocketed my disgust as well as I could, and rode 
leisurely to some kraals, to await the arrival of the 
wagons, my bullets being exhausted. The Kaffirs 
turned up shortly, bringing loads of meat, and 
having lost Dusty, the last remaining one of the 
breed of Scotch deer-hounds I brought out with 

On our return from an unsuccessful buffalo hunt, 
on the 22nd, we found Proudfoot and Maxwell 
- arrived. We had a jolly afternoon, with a little 
target practice and athletic feats, and finished up 
the evening with singing. 

23rd. —Treked on a few miles across the country 
over the Inyesan. We saw through the telescope a 
troop of about one hundred elands, which we 
reserved for Monday’s sport. We had a most 
exciting run with the dogs after a bush pig, my dog 
Venture running gallantly, turning, and, eventually, 
with the help of the others, killing him. A better 



and richer sample of well-fed pork could not be con¬ 
ceived. We salted him down for future use. 

24 th. — All turned out after the elands, four 
horses, and the rest on foot; but we only bagged one 
young cow amongst the whole party. Two or three 
more, badly wounded, fell into the hands of the 
Kaffirs. On our return we found the horse 4 Sweep ’ 
dead, and were kept awake most of the night by the 
laughing hyenas and dogs fighting over him. 

25 th. — Moved our quarters a few miles. We 
found a very nice fruit, called by the Kaffirs ama- 
bouche, resembling a mangrove in flavour, very 
luscious and good. Hunted the strand bush unsuc¬ 
cessfully, bathed in the sea, but had to beware of 
the ground sharks. Played whist until a late hour, 
finished the grog, and wound up by a soaking wet 
night (from the heavens, I mean). 

2 §th. — As I foresaw a continuance'of rain, I set 
about making a pair of felt shoes, which were to be 
unrivalled for skill and neatness of workmanship, but 
the soles took so long softening, that we were unable 
to finish them. The rest of the party killed time by 
draughts, books, and bullet-casting, and wound up 
with whist, as usual. 

27 th. — After a sumptuous breakfast on cold pig, 
three of us and an after-rider started in quest of 
elands. On the way, Venture ran a tiger-cat to bay 
in a tree. I shook and stoned him out, and the 
dogs, after a short, quick burst, worried him in good 
style. I dragged him to the wagon-road and rode 



after Proudfoot and Maxwell, who had gone forward. 
We soon came across two eland cows, dismounted, 
and fired together at about 200 yards, hitting one 
hard ; the other was a very long shot with the 
second barrel of Harris’s Westley Bichards’ rifle. 
The dogs went away in gallant style, and soon 
brought them to bay. I was the first to come up 
with them, on Justice, but could not pull up to 
shoot. Proudfoot dismounted and knocked over the 
last with a ball in the neck, firing past me. I gave 
chase to the other, tumbled off and hit her, but she 
went away, and Justice also. When I had reloaded, 
I saw Proudfoot’s eland coming up, but did not like 
to shoot. I threw away my chance till too late, and 
then missed her. She fell dead, however, shortly 
after, without another shot. 

After having succeeded in catching Justice, by 
driving him up to the other three horses, we saw a 
troop of one hundred elands in the distance, and 
watched their movements for a full hour. As the 
wind was right against us, we eventually came up 
with the last of the troop, going away far ahead, 
having got wind of us. We gave chase: I succeeded 
in overtaking them, and they turned suddenly, and 
came in single file past me, within fifty yards. We 
were a long way from camp, and I knew that if I 
let. go of the bridle I must tramp home. I there¬ 
fore pulled the bridle over Justice’s head and 
through my arm, and three times the brute pulled 
back, and jerked the gun from my shoulder. I fired 



at last, and missed. Prondfoot did tlie same, and 
liis horse, Blesbok; went off at score, and followed 
the spoor as accurately as any dog. We got back to 
the eland just before sunset, and soon stripped her 
of her skin. The wagon coming up soon after, we 
quartered her, stuffed her in, and returned to camp. 

2 8th. — White, Harris, and I, hearing that a sea- 
cow had been seen the day before in a large vley, 
just below the wagons, went in pursuit, but the cow 
had decamped, so we returned to the wagons, and I 
finished my shoes — a first-rate pair. 

The next day we went in pursuit of elands, but 
were unsuccessful; we therefore treked on a few 
miles to some new grass near the Umlilas, and had 
to go supperless to bed. 

oOth [Sunday). — A gloomy, wet day. Pound it 
hard to kill time. At noon, we succeeded in getting 
the kettle to boil, and had a cup of coffee. Pound 
my ink upset, though luckily without doing much 
damage. Harris and I rather in a strait, our Kaffirs 
having bolted. 

May 1st — A repetition of yesterday. The tent 
leaked like a sieve, and Harris and I were as miser¬ 
able as can be imagined. We cut a drain round the 
tent, which greatly improved matters. To add to 
our discomforts, we were short of fire-wood. Our 
Kaffirs had bolted to the kraals, having been unable 
to face the inclemency of the weather any longer. 

2nd. — Still raining, but with a hope of improve¬ 
ment. Justice was nowhere to be found. Maxwell 



at last sighted him with a telescope some three miles 
off. Steele and I went after him, and found him 
as nearly as possible strangled to death with his 
halter, his head and face swollen enormously, and 
fearfully thin, having evidently gone without food 
for two days, and perishing with cold and rain. 
Yet, even when reduced to this strait, the brute 
refused to be caught, and though so weak that he 
fell twice, and staggered all the way like a drunken 
man, he went headlong into a river ; fortunately, 
however, he succeeded in making the opposite bank. 
At length I drove him into a kraal, and caught him. 
At sunset I came up with the wagons, which had 
treked on four or five miles to better grass, wood, 
and water. 

4 th .—Having seen the spoor of sea-cows, White, 
Proudfoot, and Harris went down, taking the tent 
and some food, to try and shoot one by moonlight. 
Isaac severely wounded a cow, which, however, made 
her escape to the river. I did not go, having no 
Kaffir to carry my blankets. 

After a day employed in re-soling shoes and super¬ 
intending the dyeing of shirts and trowsers, we had 
a long tramp on the 6 th after reed-bucks, with but 
moderate success. Nothing to eat at the wagons, 
except a steinbok, which did not go far amongst so 
large a party. 

1th .— Steele and I started early with four Kaffirs 
to bring home a ram I had shot. It was a very 
large one, and I had cleaned and stuffed it with 




grass and hidden it, leaving Fly to guard it from 
wolves. After breakfasting sumptuously on broiled 
kidneys, steaks, and mushrooms, which we luckily 
found near, we loaded the Kaffirs and returned to 

8th. — White and Harris left us. Proudfoot,' 
Maxwell, and I, accompanied by a host of Kaffirs, 
turned out in downright earnest for buffaloes or 
elands, without breakfast, as there was not a morsel 
of anything in camp. Proudfoot shot a cow buffalo, 
and Isaac an old bull. I purchased a dozen pounds 
of beads from Surtees, and joined White’s wagon 
in the evening, wishing Proudfoot and party good- 

Seeing four elands coming down a kloof, straight 
upon us, we dismounted in all haste and crawled to 
the edge of the kloof, leaving our horses below the 
hill, out of sight. I ought to have known better 
than to place such confidence in Justice. I spent 
the most miserable day I ever recollect, chasing my 
horse through the most frightful tangled grass and 
brushwood, up to my armpits, and in many places 
over my head, through kloofs and valleys. This was 
at the base of the Umgowie Mountains. It was an 
hour after sunset before I caught Justice, and when 
I succeeded in reaching the wagons I was tho¬ 
roughly fagged. One more such day would have 
driven me mad. A cup of coffee, however, and a 
delicious supper of buffalo kidneys, somewhat re¬ 
stored my spirits and temper. 



9 th. — A day of feasting on tongues, marrow¬ 
bones, and all the delicacies of the two buffaloes. 

10t7i. — Harris rejoined us, and we treked on a 
few miles to a small river, called by the Kaffirs Inku- 
kusa, where we had a delightful bathe. We remained 
here two days, hunting up the river one day, and 
down the next; but none of the party burnt powder 
either day, so we treked on in the afternoon a short 
distance, to the Umslatoose. We met two traders, 
who were returning, in consequence of Panda having 
entirely stopped the trading. He has made the 
penalty for disobedience to orders certain death, 
and has commenced by killing about thirty men, 
and all their wives, children, and relatives. This 
had so terrified the rest, that no one would come 
near a trader’s wagon. All traders are ordered 
out of the country, and the reason which Panda 
alleges for this is that his heart is sore, owing to 
the sudden death, by dysentery, of two of his chief 

13th .—Turned out fully determined to bag some¬ 
thing, as an old tough bull-buffalo was all that we 
had in camp, and he was fast diminishing, under the 
united powers of half a dozen dogs and as many 
Kaffirs, and four white men. No one can have an 
idea of the appetite of the Kaffirs, without actual 
experience. We had a hard day’s work, and never 
fired a shot. 

White and Harris overhauled the stores in the 
wagon, and found the rice nearly musty, owing to 



the wet, and the coffee and sugar almost exhausted. 
It was therefore resolved that Harris should return 
to the bay with the wagon, for a fresh supply of 
provisions and a little lead, and to procure Kaffirs for 
himself and me, as it would have been madness to go 
into the country so badly provided as we were then. 
White and I were in the meantime to go to the 
Umgowie Mountains for shooting, and were to spend 
the next three weeks under canvas. We crossed the 
Umslatoose the next day, and the day after we un¬ 
loaded the wagon, stowed everything away in the 
tent, and Harris and the driver started early for the 

On the 17th, after a soaking wet night — our tent 
leaking like a sieve, until the canvas swelled with the 
rain — we turned out to hunt, with our usual bad 
luck. On our return, we found my Kaffir, whom I 
had hired a few days before, and to whom I had 
given the name of Goat, had run away. I got a 
pound of powder from Mr. Newton, whose wife 
made us a very welcome present of a few candles 
and needles. We lived for three days on a most 
recommendable stew, composed of two sorts of 
buck, and wild pig (cured), rice, and pumpkins, 
which appeared, warmed up fresh, at every meal. 
Our eatables were hung upon a sort of gallows, 
erected just before the tent, out of the reach of 
our five hungry dogs. 

A few days after, the said dogs, taking advantage 
of my being absent from the tent for a few minutes 



to superintend the baking of some bread, walked off 
with a cold goose and a pot of amas — the whole of 
our larder, with the exception of two pieces of salt 
pig. On my return one day, after an unsuccessful 
hunt, I was delighted to find that White had suc¬ 
ceeded in buying a goat from the Kaffirs, for four 
ostrich feathers. 

21 st (Sunday). — Not going out anywhere, I took 
the opportunity of putting my three guns into killing 
order, considering it no worse to employ myself use¬ 
fully than to pass the time loitering about, whistling, 
&c., to kill time. 

We remained in the same place a fortnight longer, 
chiefly occupied in cutting out felt shoes, dyeing 
clothes, and casting bullets, and making other pre¬ 
parations for our hunting expedition on the return of 
the wagons. The weather was cold and wet, game 
exceedingly scarce, and provisions in camp, conse¬ 
quently, very short. We were reduced at last to 
water porridge, rice and pumpkins, with a few occa¬ 
sional ducks and pigeons. 

30 th, — Killed three snakes out of a rotten 
tree, all different kinds of tree-snakes. They all 
came out of the same hole, while I was cutting 
out two bullets. 

Had some exciting sport with sea-cows in a 
narrow river, with very high reeds on both banks. 
To get a shot, I was obliged to climb the trees over¬ 
hanging the river, and had one or two good chances, 
but the villainous black ants fell upon me vigorously, 



and in such countless multitudes, biting so severely, 
that flesh and blood could not possibly hold out 
another second. I was forced to descend ; and an old 
sea-cow I had been dodging for two hours is indebted 
to the black ants for her life. 

The night before the arrival of the wagons, we 
went down with our blankets, in the hope of getting 
a shot at a sea-cow by moonlight; but the moon set 
before we met with them, and we had to take to our 
blankets in the long wet grass, without the satisfac¬ 
tion of having secured one. 

June 5.—The crack of a whip announced the 
approach of our long-expected wagon, which had 
been detained by the river being swollen. Two others 
came with it, but they brought no letters from the 
bay, as there had been no mail for two months. 
Two more wagons joined us the next day, so we 
celebrated the occasion by setting to work to pre¬ 
pare a first-rate dinner of three courses, for ten, 
consisting of some buck and buffalo soup ; stewed 
buck and sea-cow, seasoned with lots of onions, pep¬ 
per, &c. ; three sorts of vegetables ; and a roast of 
wild ducks, pigeons, and dikkops. Barter had en¬ 
gaged to provide a dish of fish, but at the second 
bite he lost all his tackle, and came home dis¬ 
comfited, with one small barbel. Dinner was fol¬ 
lowed by a bowl of gin punch, with lemons and 
all other requisites, made in the washing-basin. 
Three rubbers of whist, and lots of capital songs, 
finished up the evening. 



1th. —All got under weigh, and in about a mile 
and a half went on our separate ways, two wagons 
going back to the bay, two to the King’s trading, 
and our own party over the Pongola. Maxwell gave 
us a good lump of cheese — a great treat in these 

Sth. — On my return to the wagon, I found some 
of the party gone up to a kraal to shoot a Kaffir who 
had threatened to assagai one of Walmsley’s Kaffirs, 
in order to obtain possession of a string of Makanda 
beads which he wore round his neck. They found, 
however, that the Kaffirs had decamped in great 

ll^A. — Commenced by shooting my dog Venture, 
who had lately taken a sulky turn, and would not 
follow me a yard. Afterwards, I bagged one peau 
(bustard) and four snipes, and on my return I found 
White complaining of illness. 

12th .— Outspanned at the river Umsindoosie, and 
as White had made up his mind to return, we un¬ 
loaded the wagon, and each took our share of provi¬ 
sions, and parted company. 

13th .— Francis kindly lent me his old horse, and 
I and my Kaffir set out, and, after two good soakings, 
took up my quarters in a kraal, where I found 
Maclean. We dined together on amas, followed by 
roast guinea-fowls, in a wretched hut, containing ten 
Kaffirs, two of whom we employed to hold lighted 
grass, that we might see to eat. As soon as one 
straw was nearly consumed, they lighted another by 



it, so as to keep up a continual light. Each straw 
burned about a minute. 

On the 14th, I came on to the Umveloose. I made 
up my mind to leave two-thirds of my provisions 
behind, and go into the country with as little as 
possible. With this view, I converted an old pair of 
breeches into bags. These, and half a towel which 
I spared for the purpose, contained my sugar, coffee, 
tea, bullets, beads, red kalis, &c. Maclean went off 
in the afternoon, and I was again left alone. 

I was anxious to be off the next day, but as I did 
not know the way, I was obliged to wait for a friend’s 
wagon. I much feared that my Kaffir would run 
away, as the Zulus, from some cause or other, had 
killed all his relations, and he expected that they 
wished to make an end of him also. His alarm was 
not unreasonable, as his sister had been impaled only 
two days before. 

With a small frying-pan, which I bought for a few 
beads from a Kaffir, who did not know its use, a tin 
cup and plate, pocket-knife and wooden spoon, I 
managed cooking and feeding pretty well. But the 
nights of fourteen hours, without books, lights, or 
anything whatever to do, were indescribably tedious, 
and the horrid noise which the Kaffirs made, and 
call singing, only made matters worse. 

Ylth .— Up for once in my life before the Kaffirs, 
about an hour and a half before sunrise. After a 
long, tough job in removing the barricade, which is 
made at the gate to keep out wild beasts, I got out 



and shot a splendid golden goose, as it was feeding 
on the mealies within one hundred yards of the 
kraal. As it is always very cold before the sun 
rises I turned in again, but was roused by the cries 
of a child evidently in pain, and was thereupon 
witness to a new fashion of administering a warm 
bath. A child of about ten years old was being held 
down to the ground, while the doctor, with the sole 
of his foot previously heated on an earthenware pot 
just off the fire and turned upside down, was pressing 
the body of the child all over and rubbing it up and 
down the back, causing it, no doubt, very great 
pain. The Kaffirs have no feeling in the soles of 
their feet, the skin being like the hoof of a cow, and 
fully half an inch thick. 

While staying at the kraal, I killed the finest 
specimen of the eagle tribe I ever saw, and regretted 
much that I had no arsenical soap to preserve the 
skin. I saw a great commotion among a troop of 
guinea fowls across the river, and presently this fellow 
rose, so gorged that he could only just rise, feathered 
to the toes with beautiful black and white plumage, 
and talons fearful to look upon. 

The next day I left my goods and chattels in 
charge of the Nkozi Kazi (the chiefs principal wife) 
at the Black Umveloose, and followed the wagon- 
track to the Inyelas, about fifteen miles a head, and 
once again took up my quarters in a kraal. 

22nd .— By dint of great persuasion and a promise 
of thirty strings of Umgazi beads, I got a Zulu to 



come with me to the Amatonga land, to carry bullets, 
powder, and other things,. as a friend of mine re¬ 
claimed a horse which he had lent me, one of his 
Kaffirs having run away to the bay. 

23rd .— As the party I had been waiting for again 
delayed their starting, I determined not to be delayed 
another hour ; and, although I did not know an inch 
of the way, or anything else, I started with two Kaffirs 
and Fly. Everyone assured me that I should lose my¬ 
self, but I got on very well over flat country on a good 
sandy foot-path. A good half of the way I walked 
bare-footed. I saw wildebeests, quaggas, koodoos, and 
waterbuck. At sunset I camped out about four miles 
after crossing the river St. Luey, kindled a large fire, 
roasted a koran, made some tea, and turned in. It 
was a bitter night, with a high wind, and I took pity 
on my Kaffirs and gave them half my blanket, which 
was a double one. They lay curled up like a ball of 
worsted at my feet, one of them turning out from 
time to time to heap fuel on the fire. During the 
night I heard lions and wolves, but they did not 
molest us. 

2ith .—We started early, and had made about 
twelve miles, when we were overtaken by six or eight 
Zulus, who begged me to shoot a wildebeest for 
them, as they were nearly starving. I had an early 
opportunity of complying with their request, and 
they lost not an instant in lighting a fire, flaying and 
cutting up the animal. After a moderate feed they 
went off with their prize, all staggering under very 



heavy loads of beef. The paunch they converted into 
a bag, and scooped up the whole of the clotted blood 
from the inside of the animal, which had been shot 
through the lungs, filled the bag with the most nau¬ 
seous mess you can imagine, fastened up the mouth 
with two sticks crossed rather ingeniously, and at the 
first Amatonga kraals took possession of a pot, and 
boiled bag and all the contents for a glorious repast. 

I preferred a mess of Inyouti porridge, a new 
seed to me, small and not unlike millet, to supping 
with my morning’s friends, and found it very nice, 
but I greatly missed the new milk so abundant in the 
Zulu land. The Amatongas have no cattle, lest the 
possession of them should excite the cupidity of 
their warlike neighbours, who would soon exterminate 
the more timid Amatongas. 

After about seven hours’ sharpish walking through 
a very thick scrubby country, and apparently very 
poor land, we came out into a clearance and saw 
cultivated grounds, the first Amatonga kraals I had 
ever met with. They much resemble the Zulu huts, 
but have larger door-ways ; and as the Amatongas 
have no cattle, there are no fences round their kraals, 
which are dotted about much more irregularly than 
those of the Zulus. There was nothing but dense 
bush and large timber to be seen in any direction. 

I was hospitably received by the captain, who 
allotted me a hut to sleep in. At supper I had the 
most delicious Bashoo nuts I ever ate. They were 
roasted in the embers of the fire, and taste exactly 



like filberts. They grow in pairs in a large husk. The 
Amatongas’ cuisine is decidedly superior to that of 
the Zulus, but the traveller will nowhere find in their 
country the rich amas, which is to be had amongst 
the Zulus. 

2hth.— Hearing from the Kaffirs that there were 
inyala in the bush, I sallied out, but without success, 
until nearly sunset, when, as I was returning home, the 
Amatongas showed me two inyalas feeding—the first 
I had ever seen. I succeeded in bagging the stag, a 
most beautiful dark silver grey buck, with long mane 
and very long hair like a goat. He is of the bush buck 
species, but on a much larger scale than the inconka 
of the colony, with long spiral horns, tanned legs, 
very long hair on his breast and quarters; a 
beautiful animal weighing from 250 to 300 pounds, 
and very fierce when wounded. They inhabit the 
coast from this to Delagoa Bay, and are numerous ; 
the does are often to be seen in large herds, and are 
likewise very beautiful, resembling a fallow deer, but 
of a much darker red, striped and spotted with 
white; they have no horns, and are half the size of 
the stag, and nowhere else in Africa have I met with 
them. I had some trouble in getting him, and must 
have lost him but for Fly, who brought him to bay 
several times. I gave him a slanting shot through 
the shoulder, and out at the neck, and tumbled him 
over, but he was on his legs again in an instant, and 
dashed into the bush. When I at last secured him I 
thought I should never have sufficiently admired him ; 



but the sun was setting fast, and it was all I could do 
to get him skinned, and the meat hung up in a tree, 
before dark. The Amatongas found their way back 
through the dark in an astonishing manner; they 
carried the skin, head and horns for me, held back 
the branches, warned me of stakes or stumps in the 
path, or took up thorns that lay in my path, and 
altogether treated me with more courtesy than I had 
ever before experienced in my life. 

27 th .— I made an attempt to preserve the skin of 
my inyala, but, owing to the want of arsenical soap, I 
failed. The skull and horns were all that I could 
keep. To-day I paid off my Zulus, and engaged two 
Amatongas in their place, to carry my things to the 
next kraals, only a short distance, and arrived early. 
Got two of the best hunting Amatongas to follow up 
with me some buffalo spoor which I noticed. I came 
up with the troop, stalked in upon them, and shot a 
fine young bull. 

2 Sth. — Hired two fresh fellows to carry, and 
again got under weigh early. After a stiff walk of 
about four hours, we stopped for breakfast and drank 
about! inyouti (Amatonga beer), which is very good, 
when not too thick. After another stretch of two 
hours, we halted for the day at a kraal, where I en¬ 
gaged a fine Amatonga to carry my gun, &c., all the 
time I was in the country. The terms of my engage¬ 
ment were that I should give him the inside fat of 
an elephant, if I should have the luck to get one. 
Another Kaffir joined my forces to-day, gratis, and 



I gladly enlisted him on those terms. I only wanted 
a couple of companions, or some books, to make me 
perfectly happy during the fearfully long nights, 
when I lay stretched out on my mat, sipping coffee, 
and eating roasted nuts and salt, with a fire burning 
close to me on the floor. I could easily have con¬ 
cocted a light of some kind or other, if I had had any 
use for it. Eats annoyed me considerably during 
the night, owing to my having so much flesh in 
the hut. 

29 th. — Off at sunrise, and saw three lions sneak¬ 
ing off from a wildebeest. I was anxious to go after 
the former, but the Amatongas would not hear of such 
folly and danger, and argued the matter thus: 
‘What should I do with one, in case I was for¬ 
tunate enough to kill it P ’ — instead of the tables 
being turned, which they seemed to think the most 
probable issue to the attempt; besides, the lions 
were their friends, and provided them constantly 
with flesh, and they would take no part in molesting 
them. Though strange, it is quite true that the na¬ 
tives throughout are indebted to the lions for many a 
dainty repast. Crossed the Umkusi, a beautiful river, 
with large trees overhanging and spreading across. 
Saw wolves, waterbuck, and several troops of pallah, 
and took up my quarters for the night with an Ama- 
tonga chief, named Job. The Amatonga brought 
all manner of things for sale. I invested in a fowl, 
eggs, nuts, some good rice, beer, and a very strong, 
neatly-made mat, to carry my blanket and to sleep 

-J.Wolf, lith.. 



on, for a few strings of Umgazi beads, and a red kali, 
a piece of curtain binding, about eighteen inches long, 
which the Kaffirs are fond of wearing round their 
heads. I told the Kaffir to kill and pluck the fowl. 
The latter operation he accomplished very com¬ 
pletely, but as he had neglected the former, when I 
took the fowl in my hand to take out its inside, I 
was horrified by its struggling out of my hand, and 
running off, as bare as a board! 

30/A.—I paid off my former carriers, and engaged 
two others. We toiled a long, weary way through 
dense bush all the day. We passed innumerable 
vleys, covered with ducks, widgeon, geese, waterrails, 
cranes, and divers of all sorts, very tame; but as I 
was loaded with ball, I did not molest them. I fol¬ 
lowed up a herd of impalas, and got a shot at one 
more than 200 yards off, and cut both his fore legs 
from under him, skinned him, and breakfasted on 
him on the spot, and carried away the fore quarters 
and the skin with us. I slept in a capital hut, fully 
ten feet high in the centre, and neatly finished off. 

July Is/. — I started early for the Pongola, with 
three or four Amatongas. In going through the 
bush, I saw a great number of pit-falls, about nine 
feet deep, and very narrow at the bottom. They 
are made by the natives to entrap all sorts of game. 
After walking several miles, the Kaffirs cried out 
6 Nance inthovu! ’ (see elephant), and I beheld, 
about three-quarters of a mile off, a huge monster 
flapping his enormous ears, just at the edge of the 



busli. I was in great excitement, filled my ban¬ 
dolier with about twenty-four bullets, re-filled two 
powder-flasks, took an infinity of caps, and two guns, 
which most unfortunately happened to contain but 
small charges of powder (three and a half drachms), 
as I had not expected elephants, and had no means 
of drawing the bullets without firing, which would 
have started them instantly. Oh, for a breech-loader ! 
In this dilemma, I determined on firing at his knee, 
if I could not get a side-shot between the ear and 
the eye. When all was in readiness, I looked up 
again, and saw about fifteen elephants, one ap¬ 
parently with long white teeth, which I set my mind 
on securing. I kept well below the wind, and came 
within 100 yards of them, when my Amatonga guide 
declined proceeding farther. It was rather nervous 
work, going up alone, as I saw them breaking 
off huge boughs of trees, which crashed all around. 
I went up stealthily, however, within thirty yards of 
a large cow, but, not liking her teeth, was proceed¬ 
ing with the utmost caution to inspect some of the 
others, and endeavour to find the one I had seen at a 
distance, with the long white tusks, when, to my 
horror and mortification, I heard My barking in the 
middle of the troop. In a moment they were off, 
smashing everything before them, in a great state of 
alarm. I ran about six miles after them, through 
the bush, and came up with three of them. I gave 
one a shot behind the shoulder, but they all made 
off, and I saw no more of them ; and, though I 



instantly rushed in, a calf and the stem of a retreat¬ 
ing old cow was all the chance of a shot I got. In 
the excitement of the moment, I had forgotten all 
about the dog, and felt much mortified at the 
mischief she was the cause of; for I was perfectly 
cool and collected at these, my first elephants, and 
should most undoubtedly have got a good shot, 
even if I had not disabled, and eventually, perhaps, 
bagged one of the best of them. I never hailed 
anything with more joy than the Pongola : I was 
half dead from thirst, never having touched a drop 
of water all day; and the river was as cold, clear, 
and beautiful as any I ever saw. It is at this point 
about 100 yards wide, and its banks on both sides 
are covered with the wild fig-tree, which grows to 
an enormous size. 

After crossing the Pongola, and sleeping at 
Moputa’s, I was ready to start early on the 5th, but 
had to wait some time for the return of my Kaffir, 
Jack. When he arrived, I administered a little 
wholesome chastisement with a rhinoceros sjambok, 
and started on a long, heavy walk through deep sand, 
and finally arrived at a kraal, where I was greeted 
as usual by a set of noisy curs, which invariably, at 
the sight of a white man, tumble head-over-heels 
in all directions, upsetting everything, as frightened 
as if they had seen an apparition. After the first 
alarm they bait you unmercifully, and for many 
minutes it is impossible to hear yourself speak. I 
don’t know that I ever succeeded in making friends 




with a real Kaffir cur in my life, not even a puppy, 
and I scarcely ever saw, or knew, or heard of one good 
for anything; they do indeed lead the life of a dog. 
They are well-fed when quite young, but afterwards 
they are expected to provide for themselves, and are, 
consequently, wretchedly lean and mangy, but they 
continue to exist. 

After pacifying them a little, driving them to a 
more respectable distance by sweeping the legs of 
two from under them with a well-directed hedge- 
stake, and felling a third with a stone, I ordered 
food to be cooked for me, and enquired the news, 
and heard there was great sickness in the country, 
and that a friend of mine, John Dunn, whom I had 
hoped to join, had just been carried out of the 
country by the natives, almost dead. I had, fortu¬ 
nately, met two hunters, Jack and George, the 
previous day — the latter very sick — and had got a 
little jalap from him; and having with me calomel, 
tartar emetic, and laudanum, took an emetic as a 
preventative, and continued doing so weekly as long 
as I remained in the unhealthy country. 

(PA. — Started early with a hunchbacked dwarf 
for a guide. He had two of the most extraordinary 
legs I ever saw — I cannot call them a pair — but 
with them he managed to give me a great deal of 
trouble to keep up with him. I saw to-day Guinea 
fowl of a kind new to me, very like a black cock in 
plumage, with buff tufts on their heads, and no tails. 
We crossed the Pongola and reached some large 



vleys of water, with lots of wild fowl and large black 
geese. We saw also a few sea-cows, three of which 
I struck at long distances. They were very shy, 
having been shot at a good deal. 

The Kaffirs brought me in the evening some vile 
water porridge, made of inyouti, a small seed grown 
by the Kaffirs, which was quite uneatable. I bought 
some twenty fresh eggs, and made a great discovery 
in cooking. I fried this same inyouti porridge in 
fat, broke some eight eggs over it, and so concocted 
as fine a mess as anyone could wish for; indeed, 
it was so good, that I reserved the remains for the 

7 th. — Off early again after the sea-cows. On 
arriving, I saw only one up, which I had killed the 
afternoon before, and which a Kaffir had found out, 
and was going in for, but he made off on seeing me. 
I soon came on a lot asleep, and, getting pretty near, 
I shot the biggest of them. I soon had some eighty 
or a hundred Kaffirs around me, and they hauled 
up the cow. Nothing could be more courteous than 
their behaviour while I took what I wanted ; but as 
soon as I delivered over the carcase to them, there 
ensued an indescribable scene of confusion. The 
Kaffirs rushed at the beast with assegais, knives, 
picks, and axes; hallooing, bellowing, shoving, and 
fighting, in a manner that no one would believe 
who had not seen them. Occasionally the captain 
ran in, and laid about him with a rhinoceros sjambok 
in every direction. The strongest of the savages got 



at the beast, cut off pieces, and hurled them over 
their heads to their accomplices outside, who dashed 
at them and ran with them, each to a separate heap, 
where he deposited his piece, and where no one 
meddled with it. In a very short time the whole 
cow was disposed of, and not an atom left for 
about one hundred adjutants who were stalking 
about in hopes of a share of the prey. The same 
scene took place at the next, they both being 
uncommonly fat, young, tender, and delicious meat. 
A man with a thrifty housewife need not starve in 
this country, for I killed to-day about five tons of 
delicious meat with unlimited fat. 

The sun was down before we reached the kraal 
again, where I found myself suddenly a great man. 
Presents of all sorts were made to me — eggs, 
bread, rice, beer, pumpkins, and all the produce of 
the land. The bread looks just like roasted potatoes, 
but I cannot say much in its favour. 

8th .— Spent a quiet day at home, making bell- 
tong, and pickling the tongue, &c. of the cow. I 
made the captain a handsome present of a choice 
piece of the beef, and inspected the kraal. The 
natives have the good taste, when making a clear¬ 
ance for their gardens, to spare the gum-trees. They 
are very beautiful trees, with dark green leaves 
sweeping the ground. Their foliage is so thick, that 
no daylight penetrates to the interior. The Ama- 
tongas are very industrious, both men and women 
working in the gardens—a thing almost unheard-of 



among the Zulu men, who would think it degrading, 
and an occupation only for the women. You seldom 
meet an Amatonga without his carrying a fire-stick, 
and big fires are slowly consuming all around the 

9 th. — Loth to leave such good quarters, I took a 
stroll with half-a-dozen Amatongas, to another vley, 
where I saw lots of sea-cows lying asleep, almost high 
and dry, with large white birds sitting on their 
heads, looking just like the hulls of so many vessels, 
but in unapproachable places. I got a shot at one 
facing me, and gave her a bullet in the forehead, and 
was waiting to see if she would rise, when opposite 
me, over the vley, I saw six elephants. My guide 
brought me well up to them with wonderful sagacity. 
A young bull stood between me and the only cow 
worth shooting; they moved on so quickly on seeing 
me, that I fired at the bull, and hit him behind the 
shoulders, laming him a good deal. We chased them 
about a mile on the open as hard as ever we could 
run; not much, if anything, to choose between the 
Amatongas and myself. I was only clad in a long 
shirt and gaiters, with light felt shoes, and we ran 
upon pretty even terms, and kept very near the 
elephants, though never able to get near enough for 
a broadside. The large cow with a young calf 
turned and showed fight, whereat the Amatongas 
fled. Now was my chance, as she stood with her 
trunk in the air, to have shot her in the chest, 
but I first aimed at the top of her trunk, then I 



thought I would wait till she turned, and when 
she did so, I struck her too high, and I never 
came up with them again. I returned to the 
kraal, as the reader may imagine, not in the best of 

th. — Oft again : a weary, long walk, through 
heavy sand. However, I got a good bath about 
half way, and lots of beer at the different kraals, and 
at sundown we arrived at the residence of the chief, 
Umpongal, a man of gigantic stature. He received 
me well, and gave me the best hut I have ever yet 
seen, all made of reeds, with the roof beautifully 
worked. I was honoured by drinking beer out of 
his private cup, which holds about a gallon, and by 
a present of a line fat fowl. 

On the 11th, I went to Mathlashlas, and the next 
day I crossed the Umsutie or Mapoota, a beautiful 
broad river, very deep, about ninety yards wide, 
and apparently navigable, emptying itself into 
Delagoa Bay—with magnificent trees upon its banks, 
abounding with sea-cows, and swarming with cro¬ 
codiles. I counted twenty-two at one time, on a 
small sand-bank in the middle of the river. The 
stream runs swiftly, and though I walked along its 
banks for two days, I saw no chance of crossing 
anywhere without a canoe. The Amatongas lost 
themselves in the bush, and it was four hours after 
sunset when we made some kraals, where we put up 
for the night, and fared rather badly, after a hard 
day’s work, on mealies and cold water. I had no 



blanket with me, and felt the cold considerably, 
though we kept up a good fire. I shot badly, and 
with worse luck, killing nothing, though I had two 
good chances at buffaloes, four at sea-cows, one at 
impala, one at a waterbuck ram. Most of these I 
hit; but hitting and killing large game are two very 
different things. 

13 th. — We started early on our return, and on 
the river I got into difficulties with the canoe. As 
there were no natives at hand, I got into it alone, 
but could not keep her head up stream. In drifting 
down at a rapid pace, she shot under the overhang¬ 
ing bough of a tree, and swept me out. I clung to 
the branch, and got my heels into the boat, and then, 
with a desperate effort, my whole body ; but I lost 
my long pole, which, being made of greenwood, sank 
to the bottom. I had a paddle, however, and brought 
her to the side, where I clung on to some branches, 
and awaited assistance. As long as I held on to the 
trees, there was no danger, except from crocodiles, 
which were rather numerous there. An Amatonga 
at last came to my assistance in another canoe, and 
we fastened them together. I worked the paddle 
and he the long pole, and we got across, making one 
boat fast, and working the other up stream, to the 

14 th. — Partook of my last coffee and sugar, with 
deep regret and many a pang. 

The captain made me a present of a small pair of 
tusks, and tried hard to bargain for one of my guns, 



offering me five splendid tusks, worth ten times as 
much as the gun. 

loth. —Boasting hot day. Took a turn in a dif¬ 
ferent direction, when I swam to a place some twenty- 
five yards wide, and laughed heartily at the faces of 
many who could not swim being towed across by 
their companions, and the convulsive, spasmodic 
efforts they made—the most abject fear being de¬ 
picted on every muscle of their countenances. Some 
of them were first-rate water-dogs, and brought my 
guns and traps over dry, which I could not have 
done myself. Oceans of good beer here yesterday: 
an old woman brought a basket of sand, laid it on 
the floor, made a large hole in the middle, and 
placed in it an immense jar of beer, which could not 
have held less than nine gallons. Another supply 
followed in the evening, in a basket made of grass, 
and perfectly watertight. 

YJth. — We mustered a strong party of fifteen, 
including the captain of the kraal, and three fellows 
to carry beer. We took oar blankets with us, and 
walked a long way without seeing anything. At last 
an old bull buffalo jumped up close to me, and I 
gave him a bullet behind the shoulder, which brought 
him on his knees ; but he soon recovered himself, 
and went off*. I sent a second ball after him, to no 
purpose. Farther on, I saw a large sea-bull lying 
asleep close inland behind some reeds, and pro¬ 
ceeded to crawl in on him ; and just as I showed 
myself, half way to my waist in water, to my 



surprise, instead of endeavouring to make his escape, 
he charged right at me, at great speed. He stopped 
for a second about twenty yards off, and I gave 
him a pill under the ear, which made him spin 
round and round like a top. I fired two more 
bullets into his body without effect, missed him 

with a third (meant for his head), and began to 
fear we were to lose him altogether, as he seemed 
recovering, and was gradually getting farther and 
farther away into deep water, and giving very poor 
chances of a shot. The sun was shining so directly 
on him, that I could not see to shoot a bit; the foot¬ 
ing was slippery, and I was half way up to my middle 
in mud and water, when I got a last chance, and 
put the ball exactly between the ear and the eye, and 



killed him. The sun was fast setting ; the Kaffirs 
got him nearly ashore, and we lighted three huge 
fires (with a cap and powder on the heel-plate of 
my gun, giving it a smart blow with a stone), 
and fed on him, but he was horribly tough. The 
night was awfully foggy, and the dew heavy ; and, 
when morning came, I had every symptom • of 
fever. Notwithstanding, I. was obliged to walk 
twenty-five miles home, with scarcely any shade on 
the road. Many a vow I made, during the day, 
never to return to the country. 

The next day I kept my bed, and my ink being 
exhausted, I continued my journal with a compound 
of tea and gunpowder. Being very anxious to get 
back to the Pongola, where I had some faint hopes 
of finding Barter and Moreton, and obtaining a 
little quinine, and a fresh supply of provisions — as 
I had nothing in the shape of food, and was so weak 
that I could no longer eat beans, mealies, and 
inyouti — I started, and reached Umpongal’s. 

21st — Again got under weigh, trying to make 
Utumani’s, but, after fighting on for about four hours, 
I had to give in. I could not walk five yards 
straight, or keep in the path at all. After about two 
hours’ rest under the shade of a tree, I made some 
kraals, where I took up my quarters, and took three 
emetics, none having any effect. As a last resort, 
thinking it was all up with me, I got a Kaffir to 
tickle my throat with long grass, full of little seeds, 
pushed far down. This, at last, had the desired 



effect, and in the course of a couple of hours I felt 

22 nd. —Eeached Utumani’s at sunset, utterly done 
up. Spent a miserable night, never closing my eyes : 
rats annoyed me beyond all possible endurance — 
galloping and chasing one another all over my body 
and face. I roused my Kaffir, struck a light, and 
took a strong dose of laudanum, and towards morn¬ 
ing I got a good sleep. 

I was now better, but the ague returned with 
dreadful punctuality at four every afternoon, and 
lasted about two hours. 

I had managed to make a short journey almost 
every day, and on the evening of the 24th I reached 
Moputa’s, and was hospitably received by the cap¬ 
tain, who sent me heaps of eggs, &c., and I had a 
good night’s rest. A long walk brought me on the 
next day to the Pongola, where, instead of the 
quinine which I had been looking forward to, and 
the luxuries of coffee, sugar, and bread (which last I 
had not tasted for seven weeks), I found simply 
nothing. At last, however, I discovered a little rice, 
which I had left behind me on my last visit, and 
which was now really welcome. The next day, Tom, 
the messenger, arrived with a supply of all comfort¬ 
able things, and raised my spirits considerably. 

On the 28th I started early, and long before 
sunset reached Tagati’s, where I stayed the following 
day with Austin. He left me the next day, after 
making an exchange of salt for some needles and 



thread. Got over this much-dreaded part of the 
road, twenty miles across — a dreary sandy flat, 
without a tree or a drop of water — and then live or 
six miles through the bush, wonderfully, being highly 
favoured with a beautiful cool cloudy day, with a 
line lively breeze of wind all the way. 

August 2 nd. — I offered my hunter some beads, 
if he could show me another inyala. We pro¬ 
ceeded a long way, through very thick bush ; at last, 
I saw the Kaffir’s eyes sparkle, and, on emerging 
out of the bush to a water-pool, he made frantic 
gestures to me to go round another way, which I did 
with caution, not knowing in the least what 1 was to 
see. A moment after, I beheld a noble buck inyala 
walking leisurely away, having slaked his thirst, 
about seventy or eighty yards off. Presently, he 
turned half round, and was greeted with a ball 
in the shoulder, when he made a tremendous spring 
into the air, and dashed headlong into the bush. 
The Amatongas ran like lightning, and with wonder¬ 
ful sagacity followed him through thick bush, and 
brought him to bay, where my Kaffir, to whom I had 
given a second gun, brought him down. 

A day or two after, I bid adieu to Tagati, and, on 
the 5th, I crossed the Umkusi, and engaged my 
Kaffir’s two brothers to accompany me to the bay. 
On the 8th, I crossed the St. Luey, and on the fol¬ 
lowing day got back to the wagon. As I was still 
unwell, and much fatigued, having walked hard for 
seven successive days from the Pongola, I deter- 



mined to send on two of my men to bring me my 
j>ony Billy. It was a walk of about eight days to 
the bay, and my original Kaffir was in great fear of 
the Zulus, and begged a shirt of me to disguise him 
a little, as then, he said, they would know that he 
was a white man’s Kaffir, and would not molest him. 
I could ill spare it, having only two, but I could not 
prevail on him to start without. 

While waiting for their return, three mounted 
Dutchmen rode up to me one day, and kindly 
offered to sell me an old broken-down horse, worth 
about 6/., for 400 dollars (about 301.). I declined 
their obliging offer, whereat they all rode off again. 

13 th .—Beached Makite’s kraal, where I found the 
ivory of nine elephants, shot by my two hunters, buried 
in the cattle-kraal, as they had told me; but, before 
giving it up, the captain, in whose charge it was left, 
made my fellows point out where it was buried, to 
show that we were the rightful owners, which my 
fellows were luckily able to do, having been told 
beforehand by the hunters who buried it. 

On the 15th, I heard of poor Harris’s untimely 
death. Poor fellow ! we had agreed to go together 
the following year to Mosilikatse’s country. 

20 th. — Started my indoda (old man) off to the 
Umslatoose, to look after Billy and the Kaffir, and 
bring them on here. Paid a visit to a friend trading 
at Umlandillas, and, on comparing notes, found I 
was two days behind-hand in my dates, and can 
only account for it by supposing I must have been 



insensible in the Amatonga kraals, across the Pongola, 
when those days slipped by. Bought sixty-seven 
head of cattle and six sheep, thirteen shillings a 
head all round, after several days’ bargaining; and 
had a day’s work, sorting, choosing, and branding, 
out of some four hundred Steele had traded. 

26th. — No signs of the pony at the appointed 
place of meeting, so I again started for Durban. 

29 th to 31st. — Spent three miserable soaking- 
wet days, with the choice of being almost suffo¬ 
cated with the smoke of damp wood, or being 
drenched to the skin. My food all the time con¬ 
sisted of bread and milk, sometimes boiled for a 
change; which would have been all very well, but 
I was obliged to put myself on short commons, 
as my meal was only 21bs. weight to begin upon, 
and I made it hold out the three days. 

September ls£. — Found my messengers, but no 
horse. They had never crossed the Tugela : the 
indoda fell into bad hands, got well thrashed, and 
everything he had taken from him. He tried to 
give me a long account of his grievances, but I did 
not understand one word. 

9 th. — Made Durban at last, having got the loan, 
at the Umslali, forty miles off, of a fearfully fat 
pack-ox (Monkey), and got a burster off him in 
jumping a sluit; my rheim broke from his nose, and 
away he went home again. 





I had been making my head-quarters as usual at 
Brindle, a farm in the Umvoti district, belonging to 
Mr. Eastwood, a most intimate friend and neighbour 
in England, who had been also a fellow-passenger 
on the voyage out to the colony. We had a great 
deal of trouble and annoyance in getting Kaffirs, 
but at last I managed to start on March 31, 
with only a driver and foreloper, having agreed to 
give the latter a heifer to go to the Tugela—-a 
most exorbitant price. Our first feat was to upset 
the wagon, and scatter its contents far and wide. 
This caused us a delay of a couple of days, during 
which I succeeded in engaging three Kaffirs. I 
therefore dismissed my foreloper, and got on as far as 
Grey Town, where I was again delayed three or four 
days by incessant rain. 

I left Grey Town on April 7, and, after con¬ 
tinually sticking in the mud of the worst roads I 
ever saw, I reached, on the 10th, the house of a 



Norwegian missionary named Lawson. The descent 
which we had to make from here rather staggered us, 
but Mr. Lawson advised tying up three wheels and 
having rheims and Kaffirs to hold up the wagon on 
the upper side, as the descent was very slanting as 
well as steep. He followed up his advice practically 
by the loan of an old trek tow, which I must confess 
to having subsequently appropriated. With its assist¬ 
ance and two rheim chains we reached the bottom 
in safety. In a similar position two days afterwards we 
were not so fortunate. By dint of screeching, and 
flogging the oxen, we had reached the top of a des¬ 
perate hill. The descent commenced almost imme¬ 
diately : the foreloper did not warn us in time to stop 
the wagon, and put on the drag, and lock the wheels; 
so down we went at a frightful pace. I, not liking 
the situation, threw myself on a big thorn-tree, which 
we were passing at full speed, and escaped with no 
further injury than the ruin of my shirt. I had just 
got clear of my not too comfortable bed, when I heard 
the wagon come to a sudden halt. I ran forward 
and beheld ten of the oxen round a tree, and one 
of the Kaffirs wringing his hands and dancing in a 
frantic manner, roaring out 4 mam mo mammi, mammi 
mammo,’ over the foreloper, who was on the ground 
covered with blood, and looking as wild as a hawk. 
What had happened to him I have never yet been 
able to understand. On closer examination, I found 
that the poor fellow’s skull was split on the left side, 
and it appeared as if the wagon had gone over his 



right arm. I gave him some sal-volatile, and, after 
washing his wounds and cutting his hair away, fixed 
his head tightly between my knees. The Kaffirs 
looked on in awe, but when they saw me take out 

needle and thread, thimble, &c. to sew up his head, 
they raised a fearful outcry, in which the wounded 
man joined: I was therefore obliged to desist from 
my operation, and content myself with binding up 
his head as tightly as I could. I made up a nice 
bed for him in the wagon, but he positively refused 
to go on. The other two Kaffirs also refused, and 
wanted to know how many head of cattle I intended 




paying his father for his being killed in my service. 
There is no use arguing with Kaffirs; when they 
take a thing into their heads, they are worse than 
mules, so I was obliged most reluctantly to leave 
the poor fellow behind. I was left in a pretty fix, 
with no one but the driver to manage four loose 
horses and as many loose oxen, as well as the wagon. 
I managed for a few miles, and then had the luck 
to pick up a boy to go with us to the Tngela for 
half-a-crown. In the evening two Dutchmen stopped 
at my wagon, who said the Kaffirs who had left me 
wanted gunpowder—a very usual remedy with them 
in many cases—and also told me that the Kaffirs 
intended to bleed the wounded man between the 
shoulders and rub in gunpowder. I fear they must 
have killed him amongst them all. 

On the 14th I reached the Tugela, where I was 
detained a fortnight for want of a proper pass, 
signed by a resident magistrate. On May 1st I got 
the pass, and crossed the river, which was very high. 
In the course of a few days I lost three of my horses 
from the lung sickness, and on the 10th my mare 
Bessie Bell sickened. I sent her off immediately to 
Lewis, requesting him to bleed her, and followed 
the next day with a sorry heart, to hear her fate. I 
was in time to see her alive. I loosened her halter, 
and she followed me about like a dog, looking most 
piteously. I could not bear to see her, and thought 
of shooting her, but, before I could make up my 
mind to do so, her miseries were ended. She was a 



mare I valued beyond price for her many good 
qualities, but chiefly for her attachment to me, and 
her wonderful powers of endurance. She carried 
me seventy-five miles in one day with the saddle 
only once off her back, without showing the slightest 
symptom of fatigue! 

May lith .—After making various exchanges, such 
as beads for canvas, powder for cooking utensils, &c., 
Lewis and myself parted company, intending to 
meet again in about a month. I tried to find a 
practicable road to the Umgowie Mountains, as, 
since the loss of all my horses, my only chance 
of game was among the mountains and bush. I 
could find no road, so I followed Lewis’s track. 
In the course of the day I unaccountably lost my 
dog Fly: I think he must have been bitten by a 
snake ; I had killed a mamba, nine feet long, the day 

Hearing from the Kaffirs that there were sea-cows 
in the Umlilas, I outspanned, and waited till the sun 
was getting low, and went in pursuit. How my heart 
beat at hearing the well-known blow just round a bend 
of the river, and, cautiously peering round, saw three, 
making up the stream! They were very shy, and 
showed poor heads. I took a round, and got above 
them unperceived, and made an excellent shot at a 
very large bull; he only just showed his eye above 
the water at about fifty yards, and I put a bullet 
from Burrow (my Ho. 7) in the very centre. I was 
loth to fire at so poor a chance, but the river being 



narrow I thought I must take the first chance, or I 
might see him no more. 

15i ih .—I found my sea-cow on his back in the 
middle of a large hole, about forty yards from land, 
with half a dozen crocodiles round him. I bribed 
the Zulus, and bullied my Kaffirs, to go in and fasten 
cords on him to tow him ashore, but in vain ; so after 
firing a couple of shots, and throwing stones to 
frighten the crocodiles, I swam in, made the cords 
fast to him, and made for the shore again as soon as 
possible, shouting lustily to scare the crocodiles. The 
ropes had been so carelessly fastened together that 
they came undone as soon as they were used, and I 
was obliged to swim in again. It was not a very 
pleasant position to be rolling about on a sea-cow with 
crocodiles all round one, and I did not at all relish it. 
Through bad management I had to go in four times, 
and once, while swimming from him to shore with a 
slip-knot round my arm, striking out vigorously, the 
rheim being too short, checked me suddenly, and sent 
me a good depth under ; the Kaffirs howled again, 
making sure the crocodiles had me. 

At last, however, after several failures, we got him 
to land. The next day I brought up the head, 
which the crocodiles, adjutants, and vultures had 
picked tolerably clean, and buried it near a kraal, 
in charge of an old Kaffir, salted the tongue and a 
tub full of meat, stretched some sjamboks and whip¬ 
lashes round the wagon, and in the afternoon started 
in pursuit of more, but without success. 



17 ih .— Off long before sunrisb for buffaloes, but, 
owing to the want of dogs and the stupidity of my 
man, we were unsuccessful. On our return to the 
wagon, I shot a crocodile lying high and dry, fast 
asleep. It was some time before I could make out 
which was his head and which his tail, and I w T as 
nearly shooting at the wrong end. When the 
bullet struck him, he threw up his head and opened 
his huge jaws, and I saw that I had broken his 

spine. He would, however, have wriggled himself 
into the river, had I not given him a bullet in the 
throat and another in the chest, which settled him. 
I watched him from the opposite bank for a full 
hour, ready to give him another ball if he showed 
any sign of life, and when I was satisfied that he was 



stone dead, I hastened round by the wagon to get 
assistance, and a hatchet, to bring home his head as a 
trophy; but, on returning to the river, nothing was 
to be seen but pools of blood: the other crocodiles had 
dragged him into the water in the meantime. I was 
much disappointed, as it is difficult to get one, except 
in the water, where they always sink when shot. 

Here is a recipe for an excellent stew : about one 
pound and a half of breast of sea-cow well stewed, 
cut up small, about three table-spoonfuls of inside fat 
rendered down as white as snow, a few red peppers, 
salt, a handful of rice, a handful of fine flour, a couple 
of pickled walnuts, with a few sprigs of thyme, or 
some such herb. The ingredients seem rather miscel¬ 
laneous ; all I can say is, that I made it by guess, and 
put in anything I had; but when it came up, I thought 
nothing could improve it. The long nights were 
rather dreary with nothing but ‘Blaine’s Field Sports ’ 
and a few old 6 Family Heralds ’ to read; but, though 
I should like companions in the evening, I should 
always prefer to shoot alone. 

25th .— I recovered my oxen, which had been lost 
for two days previously, and with some labour got 
over the rise of the Umlilas. 

2 Qth .— A long blank day on the tops of the 
Umgowies;—wearisome up-hill work, and saw 
nothing but an eland cow, which was too wary 
to let us approach, so we went supperless to bed. 

28th .— By the advice of a Dutchman, Joubert by 
name, I changed my route, and he accompanied 



me back to Nungela’s, who was very gracious, and 
offered to kill a beast in return for a bottle of grog. 
We stayed out nearly the whole night trying for a 
sea-cow, but the wind was so capricious that we never 
'Could get near them; and at last they made off, 
followed at a killing pace by Joubert, two Kaffirs, 
and myself. I strained every nerve, more to beat a 
Kaffir, who was flying along with a blanket fastened 
round his neck, streaming behind him, than with any 
hope of coming up with the sea-cows, who were tear¬ 
ing along ahead at a fierce pace. I was first up, 
but the sea-cows had gained the long grass, and we 
saw no more of them. 

June 3rd .— I went to church, and saw such a 
medley as I should have thought mortal would never 
have the chance of seeing. The side walls were 
built of mud, and, with the help of wooden posts, 
supported a zinc roof. To windward, the walls had 
fallen in, leaving the building airy and open. From 
the beams hung Kaffir ropes, the tent and sides of a 
wagon, loads of mealies, old saddles, yokes, skeys, 
neckstraps, and all apparatus for wagoning, old hats 
and bridles, and part of a splendid tiger-skin. In 
the midst of all this and ten times more, rose a 
pulpit, the cushions and hangings of which bore 
marks of a great deal of service; and in the pulpit a 
tall, bushy whiskered Norwegian missionary, in a 
black coat buttoned to the throat and reaching to 
the heels, with spectacles of course, held forth. About 
thirty Kaffirs, men and women, squatted on a mat on 



their hams, huddling close together, two under one 

blanket, hunting the borders for-, and cracking 

heaps of them, or taking thorns out of their feet 
with wooden pins, unseen by the pastor, who held 
forth for more than three hours. 

A kinder, more hospitable, better-hearted man, 
however, never breathed. He used to summon his 
congregation to Divine Service by having a bell sus¬ 
pended round his horse’s neck, tinkle-tinkle all the 
way he went. Though I must narrate things as I 
found them in different parts of Africa, I shall always 
entertain the highest opinion of Mr. Schro.eder, 
and feel grateful to him for much kindness and 
hospitality received at his hands on several occasions ; 
and, if any man ever succeeds in converting to 
Christianity the Zulus, or any part of the nation, he 
is as likely a man as any I know, being uncommonly 
well read, thoroughly acquainted with the language, 
manners, and customs of the nation, and having great 
influence with them ; and, though I doubt his making 
converts, the Zulus respect and look up to him, and 
would on no account injure him. 

4 th. —I had two chances at buffaloes; gun missed 
fire both times first barrel, and, what may probably 
never occur again, I killed dead with the second on 
each occasion an old cow and splendid heifer; very 
fat, delicious meat. 

The days passed one so like another, that for a 
month I kept no account of them. On July 4, as 
we were out buffalo shooting, an old cow buffalo with 



a young calf charged me ferociously in the bush, down 
a steep hill. I stood my ground, as I had no time to 
run away, and gave her a bullet high up in the near 
fore shoulder, as she came within about ten yards of 
me. I then made a spring on one side, and she crashed 
past me, almost grazing my breast. With my second 
barrel I rolled her head over heels, not more than 
three lengths from me. She soon regained her legs, 
turned and made up the hill, trying to get at my 
gun-carrier, who was up a tree, just out of her reach. 
I was behind another tree close to her, but she did 
not see me, and I kept as still as a mouse. She then 
hobbled away down the hill mortally wounded, and 
I finished her off with a third ball. 

July 22 nd .—We crossed the Black Umveloose, and 
on the following day the Inyoni. At the kraal which 
we visited, the Kaffirs were all very inquisitive to know 
how I came by the wagon and oxen, as last year, 
when I had spent some time there, I had not even a 
Kaffir in my service, and I had increased 500 per 
cent, evidently in their estimation, as they despise a 
poor man as much as they respect a rich one, to whom 
they are very fawning and servile. 

29th .— I got three letters from home and a Natal 
newspaper, and by their help and that of my driver, 
who recollected the days of the week, I corrected 
my reckoning, which had been two days out. 

August 1st .—We were ploughing our way through 
long, heavy wet grass and scrubby thorn trees, when 
an old rhinoceros cow got up slowly from behind a 



thorn tree, and, after giving me a good stare, advanced 
slowly towards me. I had only my small rifle, 
my gun-carrier being about twenty yards behind 
with my No. 9. I beckoned frantically to him to 
come on, but he seemed very undecided. At last, 
however, being a plucky little fellow, he came up, 
threw the gun at me, case and all, and ran up a tree 
like a monkey. I lost no time in getting the gun 
out of the cover, and gave the rhinoceros a ball in 
the chest. She turned round in double quick time, 
panting like a porpoise. I followed, but a Kaffir cur 
prevented me from getting very near, so she got away. 

On climbing the top of the hill I saw two more, 
and sent my Kaffir below them, thinking they were 
sure to make down hill. I could not get near them, 
but just as they were about to make off, I shot one 
in the shoulder, but rather too low, and away they 
went. The dogs turned one, and brought him back 
not fifteen yards from me at full trot, his head up 
and his tail curled over his back, stepping out in 
splendid style, with fine high action. He looked very 
much inclined to charge me, but a bullet behind his 
shoulders, which dropped him on his knees, made 
him alter his course. I felt convinced that I had 
killed him, and followed him. At last, we saw a brute 
lying down in so natural a position that I never 
thought he could be dead, and shot him behind the 
shoulder, but he had laid down for the last time 
some hours before. It was the one I had shot first. 
After cutting out his horns, some sjamboks and his 



tongue, and hanging them up in a tree, we went off 
for water, and had not gone far when I saw another, 
about twenty yards off, looking at me, uneasy, and 
apparently trying to screen herself from being 
seen. I waited some time till she turned, and 
then shot her behind the shoulder, when she im¬ 
mediately came at me, but a ball in the centre of 
her forehead stopped her progress, and she fell dead 

not ten yards from me: a lucky shot, as I hardly knew 
where to fire, and I had not an instant to lose. I 
must have been impaled on her very long horn if I 
had not been fortunate enough to kill her. She had 
a very young calf, squealing most lustily, which 
the dogs were fighting with. I got them off, and 
wanted very much to take him to the wagon, and 
sent off my Kaffirs forthwith for half a dozen fellows 



to carry him. He was like a well-bred Chinese pig, 
prick-eared, very fine skinned and fat, and shone as 
if he had just been polished with black lead; but 
while John and myself had gone to shoot a wilde- 
beeste to make something to carry him in, slung 
between two poles, the hyenas had killed him, pre¬ 
ferring him to the mother, though I had expressly 
cut a great portion of her hide off, that they might 
feed, as we were obliged to leave the calf all night to 
get water. 

1 oth .— Hard day’s bargaining with Mopitas, and I 
was forced to pay very dear for four young oxen, 
which I was obliged to buy to replace deaths. 

\4:th .—Ascended a very high hill, and spent some 
hours at the top in taking a survey of the surround¬ 
ing country, as broken, rugged, and hilly a country on 
every side as can well be imagined, but the view well 
repaid my labours. 

lbth .— Started off again in the direction of the 
Pongola, crossed the Umkusi, and pitched my tent 
for the night, being unsuccessful in getting any game, 
though I worked very hard. I was the more 
astonished at this, as I never travelled over more 
promising ground, beautiful short, new, green sweet 
grass, with plenty of bush and water. 

1 8th .—Returned to the wagon, killing only one 
reed-buck. As I was trying to jump the St. Luey, the 
bank, broke in with me, and I fell in, over head and 
ears. Saw a great number of koodoos and two troops 
of elands, buffaloes, and a vast quantity of game, but 



did not stop to shoot, as I had lost myself, and was 
afraid I should not reach the wagon that night, and 
my Kaffirs had my blanket. 

IffiA. — The hottest wind I ever yet felt in the 
colony. I was in the water half the day, and knew 
not where to put myself. These hot winds are, how¬ 
ever, of rare occurrence. 

20 th .—Just as cold as yesterday was hot, and 
raining hard; but, fortunately, I have got the loan 
of 4 Martin Chuzzlewit ’ for a few days. Turned out 
in the evening, got a steinbuck, koran, and dikkop. 

Sept 19 th. —Inspanned, and started on my return; 
two deaths among my oxen, the rest rather fine 
drawn; have been the most of my time away from the 
wagon, shooting and spending a few days with Kiley, 
Forbes, &c., and some very wet weather we have 
had. On the whole, very bad sport; five old bull 
buffaloes afforded good sport, and took a deal of 
killing. I had many chances at black rhinoceros, but 
they are not worth a shot; lost Kettle, by a tiger I 
suppose; saw five lions at different times, but being 
alone, did not venture battle, as I did not see one by 
himself. Almost tumbled over three rhinoceros in the 
dark, and they hunted me away, following me up a 
good way, and showing every demonstration of their 
displeasure, ploughing up the ground, &c. : made 
a sad mull of two sea-cows, which I took for 
rhinoceros, the night being very much overcast, and 
did not venture as near as I might, as it was an open 
plain. I was not more than twenty-five yards off, but 



the wind being very favourable, I might, had I 
known they were sea-cows, almost have gone up and 
scratched them, and made dead sure of my shot; as 
it was, owing to having no white paper on the 
muzzle of my gun, I could not aim with any 
certainty. Saw several large snakes about the St. 
Luey, and one horrid puff adder alarmed me consi¬ 
derably. I was trying to despatch him with an iron 
ramrod, when his head and throat swelled to an 
enormous size, turning a hideous livid colour, as he 
reared himself up, and, with a horrid hiss, pitched 
himself at me; but I managed to dodge him, and he 
disappeared. Got a couple of crocodiles, and caught 
a small one, about one foot long, alive—a wicked 
little monster; took from one a lot of beautiful fat, 
which burns brilliantly ; have got about 350 pounds 
of ivory to take down with me, and shall endeavour 
to make up my load with twenty-five buffalo hides, 
as I hear there is a sale for them. 

2hth. —After losing the oxen for a couple of days, 
and a couple of stick-fasts, got on to the missionaries 
without any adventure. Mothlow shot a sea-cow, 
and I went down with a whole troop of Kaffirs to 
bring up half a wagon-load of speck, hearing she was 
a very large cow, and so she proved, but as lean as 
a crow. It was an awfully wet night, so I made a 
Kaffir kraal, and stayed the night, supping on a 
delicious wild duck, amas, tchualla, and coffee, and I 
contrived to bake a loaf of bread between two 
pieces of a broken Kaffir pot, so that I was truly in 



clover. My tent kept very heavy rain off sur¬ 
prisingly, and the soil being very sandy, soaked all 
up, and I spent a most comfortable night, when I 
had expected, from all appearances, just the reverse. 

2 — Made the wagon again. I got over the 

ground, twelve or fourteen miles, barefoot, very well, 
to my intense satisfaction; it is an accomplishment I 
longed to achieve. Inspanned a young ox, which I 
had christened Lanky, after several hours’ hard 
fighting with him. I never saw so wild a brute ; he 
roared, and bellowed, and charged all before him in 
the most savage, determined manner, and butted 
furiously a bull-stag he was coupled with, but a right 
good buffalo rheim defied his utmost efforts, and 
when everything failed, he lay down, alas! never 
more to rise. I thought dragging him a few yards 
might have the desired effect, but when we stopped 
the wagon, his neck was broken. I cut his throat, 
skinned, and cut him up, and have converted the 
most of him into bell tongue. 



1856 . 


I left Mr. Eastwood’s, on Tuesday, October 7, 
on a tramping tour into the Zulu country, for 
the purpose of looking up my hunters, and taking 
them fresh ammunition. I took six Kaffirs with me, 
and while detained for four days at the Tugela, we 
were nearly starved. On going out one morning in 
search of a buffalo, I left one of my men under a tree, 
saying he was dying, but on my return with the news 
that I had shot one, he immediately revived. 

I and one of my Kaffirs did not fare so badly. 
Being unable to shoot anything, as game was w r ild 
and wary, and the bush very thick and impenetrable, 
so that we could not get on without making a noise 
and scaring the buffaloes, we swam the Tugela at 
night, and had a good feed of boiled mealies and 
milk, but were unable to bring anything across for 
the rest of the party, in consequence of the breadth 
of the river and the rapidity of the stream. 

My old horse Mouba (Sugar) strayed away, owing 
to the carelessness of the Kaffir in whose charge he 



was, knee-lialtered, with a head-stall on, and a strap 
attached to it fastened to another very strong 
padded one, buckled above his knee, which kept his 
head within one foot of his knee. This plan is usually 
adopted in the colony, to facilitate catching one’s 
horse without hindering his feeding. We could not 
track him a bit, owing to the stony ground, and he 
remained knee-haltered for nearly three months, when 
he was found by a party of Dutch Boers hunting. 
I eventually recovered him, with no further injury 
than a deep scar above his knee, and a ring of white 
hairs round. The Boers who found him told me 
that, from the tracks he left, he must have slept and 
drank every day and night at the same place ; he was 
still knee-haltered, and it was extraordinary that he 
escaped the lions so long. 

On the 20th, we reached the house of Mr. Schroe- 
der, the Norwegian missionary, by whom we were hos¬ 
pitably entertained during several days’ bad weather. 
I thought myself very fortunate to be under his roof, 
as neither my little tent nor a Kaffir kraal are very 
agreeable, under such circumstances. 

I left Mr. Schroeder’s on the 23rd, with a supply of 
medicines, which he kindly gave me. I tried walking 
barefoot, but did not get on well. After sleeping 
at a Kaffir kraal, we continued our journey through 
a bad broken country, very slippery after the rain. 
However, I was in very good condition, and stood 
a long day’s unsuccessful hunt after a sea-cow with¬ 
out fatigue. On the 25th, we crossed the Umslatoose, 




where my biscuits had the misfortune to get a thorough 
soaking, owing to the carrier getting into a quicksand. 

2Qth [Sunday ).— Spent the day at the Norwegian 
Missionary Station, where there was a large muster 
of Kaffirs at church. The Norwegians are excellent 
hands at making up a good dinner out of poor mate¬ 
rials, and on this occasion Mrs. Aftebro fully sus¬ 
tained the reputation of her countrywomen. 

A fat Muscovy duck, however, when young and 
tender, is not a bad subject to work on ; the stuffing, 
made of mealie meal and eggs, is excellent, and a sub¬ 
stitute for apple sauce, made of sour dock, is worth 
knowing of. They have a queer custom of giving 
you soup, afterwards, which I declined, but changed 
my mind on hearing it was sweet, made of arrow- 
root, preserves, &c. 

I left the station the next morning, and had a good 
bit of shooting, bagging two steinbuck, one peau— 
a brilliant shot at 140 yards — and two koran. On 
reaching the kraal where I had told the Kaffirs to 
stop, I found them dancing and singing over two 
more steinbuck which they had killed. 

2 8th — The Kaffirs were very importunate that I 
should shoot two reedbucks which they saw close at 
hand, so I took my gun and knocked one over, and 
soon afterwards a splendid crest-peau or bustard. 
We already had more meat than we could carry, and 
even the dogs turned up their noses at the daintiest 
morsels ; but the Kaffirs, though heavily laden, could 
not make up their minds to leave anything behind, 



so we cleaned and plucked, and made all as light as 
possible, and the Kaffirs carried off everything, not 
excepting the huge crested bustard. In the course of 
the day we crossed the Umsindoosie, and, after some 
hard walking, reached the Umveloose at sunset. 

The next morning we walked about four miles up 
the river, and, having found a crossing-place, we got 
safely over, though the river was high. The day was 
burning hot, and we reached Johnson’s wagon in the 
afternoon. An attack of English cholera laid me up 
there for several days, and I did not leave till late on 
November 4. I walked hard and reached the St. 
Luey, which I found much flooded, at sunset. In the 
course of the night we heard numbers of Hons, but 
saw nothing of them. 

5 th .— Went into the bush, where the thick foliage 
and underwood and the long grass made the travel¬ 
ling bad and the shooting worse. However, I suc¬ 
ceeded in bagging two bush buck. Ragman, a six- 
months’ old puppy, behaved remarkably well, sticking 
to the second, a young doe, for fully two miles through 
the bush, and finally bringing her to bay at the river. 
He was dead beat when we found him, but he still 
held on like a vice. He is a whelp of great promise, 
bull and greyhound, with a dash of the pointer, the 
best breed possible, and the best feeder I ever saw, 
eating huge rashers of any animal just killed, when 
the sun is at the hottest, at which time very few 
dogs will feed, however hungry, saving us the trouble 
of carrying food for him. The natives make their 



curs carry their own food, by cutting a hole in a huge 
piece, slipping it over their heads round their necks ; 
and I have frequently met a score of curs ornamented 
with a necklace of the kind, cut from a hind leg, 
which part they value least of any, and each weighing 
half as much as the animal which carries it, and they 
can neither get it off nor eat it. 

§th .—Eain all day. I made two sheaths for 
knives, and had a shot at a hyena in the evening, but 
being out of breath with running, I missed him. He 
was gorged to the verge of bursting. 

1th .—Crossed the St. Luey, one of the best rivers 
I know of for sport of all kinds, and nearest to the 
colony; it rises somewhere at the foot of the Orn- 
bombo Mountains, and runs through a splendid 
wooded valley. Lions are very plentiful. One 
night I was encamped in my small tent, weighing 
only lOlbs., which I had pitched as usual at the foot 
of a large tree, easy of ascending in case of need. 
My old pack ox Dancer was made fast with a rheim 
through a hole in his nose, and pegged down close 
to the tent for safety ; and two Kaffir boys (the rest of 
my party having gone back to the wagon for stores) 
were at a large fire in a small belt of thorns (mimosas) 
within twelve yards, just opposite the opening of my 
tent, when I heard the deep low subdued murmur- 
ings of a lion gradually nearing us. Old Dancer 
became very fidgety. There was a lot of meat hang¬ 
ing in the tree — koodoo, waterbuck, &c.— out of 
reach of the dogs. The lion came on very stealthily 



and quietly, the night being very dark, and actually 
tried to claw the meat down from the tree close to me. 
I was sitting cross-legged, with my double rifle across 
my knees, expecting every moment to see his outline 
between me and the fire, where my lads were, as I 
thought, asleep; the brute actually stumbled over 
the tent ropes at the back, which were pegged down 
some six yards behind, causing a jar through the 
tent. Just at this critical moment something burst 
through the opening into my tent, quick as thought, 
and fell at my feet, and I was within an ace of shoot¬ 
ing my two Kaffir boys, who had been awake all the 
time, lying as still as dormice, but could stand it no 
longer. I expected every moment the lion would 
have sprung on old Dancer, who remained perfectly 
passive, but after in vain trying to claw the meat 
down again he left us. On getting up in the morn¬ 
ing I saw some six or seven different varieties of 
game; I hardly knew which kind to hunt, but gave 
the koodoos the preference. 

8th .—A long, heavy walk, through vleys and 
water and foot-paths running down with wet, brought 
us to the first Amatonga kraals, the most wretched 
habitations imaginable. The poor fellows were all 
but starving; they had nothing to live on but wild 
figs, Kaffir oranges, and other fruit of the kind. 

9 tli {Sunday ).—Another wet and miserable day, my 
clothes, blankets, &c. all damp and unwholesome. 

1(M.—To-day we had a long tramp through the 
bush. I wounded an inyala doe, and had a long 



chase after her, but eventually lost her. They are 
very wild and wary, and it requires the greatest 
caution to get a shot at them. Shortly after, I broke 
the leg of a buck. Eagman and Juno soon brought 
this one to a stand, and it dragged them a long way 
through the bush, bleating lustily. The dogs held 
on splendidly, and we followed the sound through 
the bush. At length I came on Eagman covered 
with blood, and was greatly surprised to find he had 
left the buck, but, hearing a row in the bush, I went 
on, and found three hyenas tearing away, and 
bolting skin and flesh at such a rate that in three 
minutes more there would not have been a 
particle left. Juno had fled in fear and trembling, 
and did not appear again for an hour. The hyenas 
retreated on my approach, and I was unable to get 
a shot at them, though I followed them, growling, a 
long way. 

I went on afterwards to St. Lucia Bay, which I 
found swarming with wild fowl. I knocked over 
five geese at once, and shot a crocodile also. 

12 th .—As we were going out after a sea-cow, the 
Amatonga who was leading cried out, 4 There is a 
dead buck,’ and I saw what I took to be an inyala 
doe, and went leisurely towards it. My fellows, 
however, ran, and when within about thirty yards, 
up rose a fine black-maned lion, and slunk into the 
bush close by. The Kaffir in advance vanished like 
smoke. Eagman ran, and was barking, when out 
came two lionesses brilling savagely, at which the 




Kaffirs all fled at the top of their speed. The 
lionesses eyed me some time at a distance of about 
thirty yards, and I was casting my eyes round for a 

tree, as I expected them to come at me, but they 
slunk into the bush, and I never saw them again. 

I afterwards gave a sea-cow a shot which I 
thought was fatal, but as he did not rise I went to 
look for another, and shortly hit one just under the 
root of the ear (the best shot you can give), and, 
after plunging and rolling over and over, for about 
ten minutes, he subsided, and we dragged him out 
some 200 yards below. The poor Amatongas 
were delighted, and carried all away but his head 
and back bone. 

13i th .— The first fine day we have had for a long 



time. I turned out about two hours before sunset, 
and got a good chance at an inyala, but my gun 
hung fire, and the second barrel snapped. In 
coming back I gave one of the Amatongas a prod 
behind, to call his attention to a kind of wild dog, 
when he gave a most unearthly howl, and a bound 
which I never saw equalled, dropping all his 
assegais, whipping off his moutcha in a twinkling, 
and entreating me to come away, saying that an 
inyoka snake had bitten him, and that he should 
die. It was some time ere I could persuade the 
fellow otherwise. 

lith .— To-day I started my Kaffirs in quest of 
my other hunters. The rivers had detained them 
until now, as they are frightened at deep water and 
very few of them can swim. I mended a gun 
belonging to one of them, and he went off in high 

We had a long chase after an old bull buffalo, 
along the river’s edge. I put forth all my powers to 
beat Mahoutcha, a fine Kaffir, who aggravated me by 
passing me at railway speed. I had the advantage of 
him, as he had a gun to carry and I none. We passed 
and re-passed one another about six times, my gun 
changing hands three times. I was utterly blown, 
and just about to yield the palm to Mahoutcha, 
though I was leading, when luckily for my credit the 
buffalo took the water and vanished into the dense 
bush on the other side, 

I espied water-buck over the river, waded, and got 



a long shot at a fine doe, which we eventually bagged 
after a long chase. We were kept awake in the night 
by the dogs fighting wolves, and turned out once, 
thinking we heard buffaloes drinking, but the sound 
proved to be only running water. 

lbth. — Off long before daylight down the river 
after sea-cows. I scrambled into a tree to see over 
the reeds, and got a shot, and though my gun hung 
fire, I struck him fairly, hearing the bullet pat. While 
waiting for it to rise, the rain came on furiously, and 
continued all day. 

Anything more miserable than our situation can 
hardly be conceived. I made a kind of awning for 
my Kaffirs out of my large blanket, and they were 
comparatively snug. The ground was saturated with 
rain, all my traps wet and unwholesome, and my 
tent had begun to leak. This kind of life is suf¬ 
ficiently hard in fine weather, but in the drenching 
rain one gets in Africa it is positively unbearable, and 
enough to give the most light-hearted fellow a fit of 
the blues. As I had no cooking utensils of any kind 
except a kettle, all I could do was to roast my meat 
on a stick. 

16 th [Sunday ).— I was lying in my little 91b. tent 
enjoying Byron’s poems, and meaning to have a 
day of rest, when the Amatongas came in a large 
body and were most importunate that I should go 
out to shoot them some meat, as they were very 
hungry; and there came also a lot of pretty girls to 
back their entreaties, bringing me small presents of 



meal, rice, eggs, and beer. I at length agreed. They 
shortly hit off the spoor of two old bull buffaloes 
which had fed on an open plain early in the morning. 
We spoored them beautifully into a dense thicket, 
black as midnight, and so still and silent you might 
almost hear a leaf fall at the entrance ; the Amatongas 
one and all most politely made way for me to go in, 
silently pointing to the spoor. For the first time I 
began to take an interest in what I was about, took 
my double-barreled gun from the hands of the carrier, 
took off my shoes, and stept cautiously and very quietly 
along the path, and had proceeded about one hundred 
yards, when, just as the path turned, I found myself 
face to face with an old bull fast asleep, lying down 
within ten yards. I dropped on one knee, cocked 
the left hand barrel, holding the trigger back to 
prevent the click, and, as soon as I felt the lock catch, 
took a steady pot in the centre of the forehead. 
Just as I touched the trigger my gun went down and 
stopped at half cock. The bull instantly opened his 
eyes wide, and was half up when I cocked and fired 
the second barrel and hit him. I ran through the 
smoke fifteen yards back, and dropping behind a bush 
to ascertain the effects of my shot, heard a crash 
through the bush. It was the other breaking cover, 
and my old friend on his legs, with his nose high 
up, snuffing the air for me. He made a dead set, 
getting my wind ; and immediately made a desperate 
charge right through the middle of my bush, which I 
avoided by jumping on one side. He turned im- 



mediately, and made another dead set at me. There 
was but half a bush between us, and he stood not ten 
yards off, eyeing me furiously, the blood streaming 
down his face from a bullet between the eyes, but too 
low to be fatal. A second tremendous charge I 

avoided almost literally by the skin of my teeth. All 
this time, which seemed to me almost as many hours 
as it was in reality minutes, not a Kaffir or even one 
of my dogs came to my aid to attract his attention, 
though they must both have heard all that was going 
on. A third time we stood in close proximity; there 
was nothing but the remnants of the trampled bush 
between us. I never removed my eye an instant from 



his. He backed some four feet and lowered Ms head 
as if about to charge, and we stood for two minutes 
or more with some tangled brush-wood not four feet 
high and very thin between us. I hardly know 
myself how I avoided his last charge; I threw out 
both arms and pushed myself from his body, and 
away as hard as I could, closely pursued by the bull. 
His hot breath was on my neck, and in two strides 
more nothing could have saved me ; but at this spot 
the path turned to the right, and missing me he went 
headlong through a fearfully tangled thicket and 
broke into the open not twenty yards a-head and 
about seven or eight on my left, carrying half a cart¬ 
load of rubbish on his horns. I threw myself on my 
back in the thicket to prevent his seeing me, on 
reaching the open. Just as he broke, and when he 
was about twenty yards from me going straight away, 
I recovered myself, gave him my second barrel, which 
I had had no opportunity of firing before, hitting 
him high up on the last rib on the off side just in 
front of the hip, when he threw up his tail, made a 
tremendous bound in the air, and dashed through 
bush thorns so dense and close that it was perfectly 
wonderful how he managed it, and fell dead in about 
200 yards, with the low moaning bellow so gratifying 
to a hunter’s ears. My trusty Amatongas descended 
immediately from the different trees which they had 
climbed as soon as the affray commenced, and were 
most lavish in their compliments to me. I was 
going to rate them soundly for their cowardice, but 



I found I had lost the use of my tongue, which I did 
not fully recover for many hours, and vowed over 
and over again I would hunt no more on Sunday, 
knowing it to be Sunday. 

I afterwards made some experiments with the 
buffalo, and found his brain so very narrow that there 
is every chance of missing it, in which case you do 
not injure him in the least. My bullet had penetrated 
between the eyes about two inches below the brain, 
which it had missed altogether, although close beside 
it. We cut out the ball just at the top of his head, 
within an inch of the hole into his brain. In 
my experiments I had all but killed my best dog, 
Ragman, in trying if the bullet would penetrate by 
shooting in the soft place between the horns. At 
night I sallied out by torchlight, to try to get a shot 
at some laughing hyenas, who had taken a water- 
buck skin from the very feet of the Kaffirs, and 
were laughing in fits over it, utterly heedless of the 

Ylth. — Got under weigh with some difficulty, as 
we had a large quantity of meat to carry. Killed 
four impalas, and then went to pitch on a place for 
our camp, near sunset. After making the necessary 
arrangements I strolled out to try and fire off my 
gun, as I wanted to clean it. I saw a hyena prowling 
along, and killed him so dead, at fully one hundred 
yards, that I thought he had dropped into a hole the 
moment I fired. 

18£/i.— I was awakened by a white rhinoceros 



charging past, with three dogs at his heels, and 
Mahoutcha calling out lustily to me ; but, unfor¬ 
tunately, I was not loaded, and Mahoutcha’s gun 
snapped, so the brute got away. 

We turned out afterwards to try for a rhinoceros 
cow we had seen the day before. We were con¬ 
sulting as to the best means of getting at one, which 
we saw standing at some distance under a tree, when, 
a troop of impalas came charging down, with a fine 
old lioness after them. We went, and saw her 
lying down, but so flat to the ground, head and all, 
that no man could shoot with any certainty; and she 
never for a moment took her eyes from us. When 
we got up to her, she was lying down flat as a plate 
to the ground; but her head might have been on a 
pivot, as her watchful eye glared on us all round, 
without appearing to move her body, as we decreased 
the circle, in the hopes she would stand up and give 
us a fair chance of a shot behind the shoulder. I could 
not place the smallest dependence on Mahoutcha, 
whose face was the colour of boiled liver. As we 
walked round the lioness, he described a circle full a 
dozen yards larger than I did : I therefore, taking 
into consideration that discretion was the better part 
of valour, looked for a tree to climb up, near enough 
to make tolerably sure of my shot. I was just 
getting up one, when the lioness made off: not much 
to my credit, certainly; but in case of a charge, 
Mahoutcha would have been sure to miss, and then 
nothing could have saved us. 



In the course of the day, I shot a fine impala, 
which we hung up in a tree, intending to take him 
home as we returned; but when we came back, we 
found nothing but bones left: the vultures had 
pulled him down, skinned, and finished him. 

19th. — I was resting under a tree, when we 
sighted a white rhinoceros cow. I stalked up to 
within about twenty yards of her. She was very 
uneasy, perceiving danger, but not knowing from 
what quarter to expect it. She made straight for 
me, at a round trot, and I dropped her with a bullet 
in the chest. She rose immediately, and I struck 
her again, but she got away. We were long in 
tracing her spoor, as the ground was hard and stony, 
and we never saw her again; but, in following her, 
we came on an old black bull, which I shot dead 
behind the shoulder. I pitched the tent near his 
carcase, intending to have a shot at a tiger at night, 
but it was too dark to see anything, and the wolves, 
jackals, and hyenas made such a noise all night as I 
never wish to hear again. They fought over every 
mouthful, and chased one another madly, and, though 
I fired occasionally at random, it had no effect. Fre¬ 
quently some of them tumbled over my tent-ropes, 
startling me out of a broken slumber. My fellows 
had strongly advised me not to sleep there, and 
wisely took themselves off three or four hundred 
yards ; and, could I have found them in the dark, I 
should have moved my quarters. The wolves and 
hyenas had made an end of the bull by the morning. 



20 th. -— I saw more buffaloes than I had ever 
seen before in one day. They were galloping in all 
directions, and at last I accounted for it by there 
being an immense party of Amaswazis hunting. I 
shot a fine wildebeest bull, and saw many black rhi¬ 
noceros, but they do not pay to shoot. We camped 
in a beautiful place, under a large tree, with rivers 
running on three sides, and a huge mountain at the 
back, called Tegwan, which I ascended. On this 
mountain, a whole tribe were massacred by Charka’s 
people : they scrambled up to the summit, but were 
all butchered and thrown off. The country is now 
uninhabited, and the mountain swarms with baboons. 

Five black rhinoceros, an old buffalo, and a 
wild boar, grazed quietly within 300 yards of my 
tent, but I left them unmolested, as we had more 
meat than we could use, and the dogs were per¬ 
fectly useless from obesity. Even the Kaffirs could 
only touch the morsels which they considered the 

21^.—Had three shots at a white rhinoceros, 
with remarkably fine horns. I saw a good number, 
but they were in the open, and though they are 
stupid things, and easy of approach, if met with 
alone, they generally keep near quaggas, wildebeests, 
or buffaloes, who give them the alarm. 

22nd . — Beached the St. Luey, across a hilly, 
rough, stony, broken country. After being roasted 
in the sun, till I thought I must have had brain 
fever, waiting for a cow koodoo (the sentinel of the 



troop) to disappear over the ridge, I came so sud¬ 
denly, at last, upon the troop, that, though usually 
most shy, wary, and difficult of approach, they 
seemed now quite stupified, and I got right and left 
at two magnificent old bulls, hearing the bullets tell 
loudly, like the drawing of corks, both within twenty- 
five yards ; but, being too anxious to get both, I 

got neither. It was very mortifying, and I felt very 
small in my own eyes. I had left my hat far back, 
and suffered terribly in consequence — burying my 
head in the grass, and twisting it over me, to endea¬ 
vour to keep off as much scorching sun as possible. 
To crown all, I lost the finest horned rhinoceros I 
ever beheld. I found him, while endeavouring to 
trace the blood-spoor of one of the wounded koo¬ 
doos, standing half up to his middle in a mud hole, 




with his tail towards me. I endeavoured to direct 
his attention to me in various ways. I was within 
fifteen yards, and had been for many minutes, and 
could have picked my place to fire twenty times, but, 
after the last discomfiture, I thought I would make 
dead sure, when, without a.warning of any kind, he 
suddenly made right off, and I had only a stern shot 
left me, which is of no manner of use. I had lost my 
way entirely, and did not get back till three hours 
after dark, guided by the shouts of the Kaffirs. 

The bagging of large shy game on foot is a com¬ 
plete science, and requires no small skill. You 
must take your bearings, study the wind to a point, 
and, if seen by the animals, go in an exactly oppo¬ 
site direction, marking well the place, and gradually 
work round, never stopping to look dead at them, 
unless well concealed. It is impossible to use too 
much caution. I have heard an old hunter say, that 
if he got one good chance in a day, he was per¬ 
fectly satisfied. The first dawn of day is the best 
time to commence, and a good telescope an immense 

The crocodiles are the greatest drawback to this 
country. I got to a lovely hole in the St. Luey, 
wearied and hot, and a plunge would have been 
worth any money, but the spoor of a large croco¬ 
dile which had just gone in warned me, and I 
was forced to content myself with a shallow place, 
where the stream ran strong, and where I was safe 
from them. 



We took six bees’ nests in this neighbourhood, 
thanks to the honeybirds, but it was the wrong time 
of year, and we did not find much in them. 

25 th. — Made a pair of gaiters of impala skin, but 
was in great straits, as I had lost my sail needle. 
Shot a bush-buck, and severely wounded a koodoo 
bull, but lost him, as the dogs were worse than use¬ 
less, owing to the excessive heat and overfeeding. The 
heat was so great that the gun-barrels would blister 
my hands, and the heel-plate was so hot that I could 
not bear it to my shoulder, through a thick shirt. 
On one occasion, on stooping down to drink, some 
blue flint-stones on which I had placed my bare 
knee raised a blister instantly. 

I had sent Mahoutcha to buy some amobella 
meal of the Kaffirs a day or two previously, and 
he returned to-day with the intelligence that all 
the young and fighting men were gone. Two sons 
of Panda’s were quarrelling who was to succeed him, 
and a civil war was imminent. I decidedly wished 
myself out of the country, as the sight of blood makes 
Kaffirs worse than wild beasts, and when once they 
have tasted blood, they would think nothing of 
knocking on the head anything that comes in 
their way. 

28 th. — I was awakened out of a sound sleep very 
unpleasantly. It blew a hurricane, and my tent being 
broadside to the wind, the pegs on the weather-side 
all gave at once, and were carried to Bagdad by the 
jerk, and I was left exposed to a downfall of rain, 



more like a waterspout than anything that could 
come from the clouds. I roused the Kaffirs, made 
knives, two ramrods, and assegais supply the place 
of pegs, and got the tent put to rights. 

When I first came to the colony I was four months 
sleeping out during the rainy season, steaming and 
soaking four nights out of the seven, and made fight 
of it; but at this time I had suffered too much from 
ague to be able to stand such work. One morning I 
sent all the Zulus to the rightabout, and made them 
go back minus a morsel of beef, for not bringing me 
milk, &c. This had a wonderfully good effect upon 
them, for the next morning, ere I was up, they 
brought me a heap of amasi, beer, and milk. 

December 1st —Moved my camp for better water, 
and on the 3rd reached my old quarters of last year, 
where I was very warmly received, and inundated 
with amasi and milk. On Sunday we were visited 
by three lions, which kept my fellows awake almost 
all night, singing and shouting for their lives, and 
keeping up an incessant clatter with two tin dishes, 
which the lions are much afraid of. 

On the 4th I got back to the place where I had 
left the wagon, and expected to find Johnson, and 
pictured to myself a long yarn, as I had been 
tongue-tied for more than a month. Bread, sugar, 
and rice, also rose before the eyes of my imagination, 
but, alas! only those of the imagination. There was 
no vestige of anything. Johnson had left five days 
ago, and nothing was to be heard of the Kaffir 



hunters, to whom I had given twenty days as their 
utmost limit of time. 

So I made two imaginary bets with a little Jew, of 
the name of Cohen, that, upon resuming my old 
Burrow, I would, with twenty bullets, bag ten head 
of large game, including two koodoo cows : hi. on 
each event. These were a source of fully as much 
excitement to me as if I had actually made the bet. 
I won both events on Tuesday night, with three 
bullets to spare, and was highly delighted. 

8tli .—Mahoutcha told me that the impi (army) had 
killed five white men and all their Kaffirs, and there 
was no use in waiting any longer for my ivory, as no 
Amatonga would dream of coming into the Zulu 
country. He proposed, therefore, that we should go 
and hide in the reeds of the Umveloose, and come 
out to a kraal at night, and hear the news. 

I made up my mind to move out at once, and 
forthwith packed up my traps, and took a circuitous 
route, avoiding the road. I left all my goods and 
chattels with an old witch-doctor, the captain of the 
kraal, who strongly advised us not to remain with 
him any longer, as, although willing, he was utterly 
unable to protect us. I have never yet (1862) returned 
to reclaim my property, but, should I ever do so, I 
shall no doubt get what the rats have left, as Zulus 
are scrupulously honest. Seeing lots of cattle coming 
out, we went to a hut to hear the news, and were told 
the most extravagant yarns, but that no white man 
would be molested unless he commenced the assault. 



The Kaffirs who were on the victorious side told 
me that the Tugela was red with blood, and that the 
Inyoni, another river, about eight miles nearer, was 
so foetid from the number of dead bodies, that no 
man could drink the water, and that I should walk 
over dead bodies all the way between the Matakoola 
and the Tugela, a distance of fifteen long miles. 

As there was every appearance of heavy rain, I 
feared the rivers would be flooded, and that I might 
be detained an indefinite time, which would have 
been horrible, as my stores were all gone, and I had 
only twenty bullets left. I therefore resolved to cross 
the river, come what might, sorely against the will of 
the Kaffirs, who were in dread of their lives, and yet 
afraid of leaving me. We slept at the Umsindoosie, 
and were almost eaten up by mosquitoes. 

9 tli. — Started before daylight, being uncommonly 
anxious to get to the Missionary Station to hear the 
news. It rained heavily the greater part of the day, 
but I stuck at it for fully twelve hours, and reached 
the station shortly after sunset. I found from Mr. 
Aftebro that the country was nearly depopulated, 
thousands and thousands of men, women, and 
children being stabbed or drowned in attempting to 
cross the Tugela. He calculated that fully one-fourth 
of the whole Zulu nation must have been destroyed, 
and told me that 8,000 head of cattle had passed his 
station alone. The victors lost a great number of 
people also. It is most extraordinary to hear them 
talk about the fight; they appear to think no more 



of taking human life than an Englishman would of 
killing a rabbit. One man said he had killed six, 
another five, nine, or three ; and one great warrior 
had killed twenty, and then he would count on his 
fingers so many young men, so many wives, and so 
many unmarried girls — Zintombis — and laugh and 
chuckle over it immensely. 

Panda, who was alive and well, while his two 
sons were fighting which should succeed him, had 
himself killed seven of his brothers ! 

1(M.—The thermometer usually stands at about 
93° in the shade, and 135° or 140° in the sun ; some 
days it has been 104° in the shade. 

13 th .— A fine cool day, with slight showers. 
Started at railway speed, stuck at it for sixteen 
hours and a half, getting over about fifty-five miles, 
the greatest walking feat I ever performed. I fell 
fast asleep on the road before my blanket arrived, 
being quite knocked up in ascending the Matakoola 
hill to get away from the mosquitoes. 

The only Kaffir who stuck to me throughout was 
Mahoutcha, a splendid fellow, formerly in Elephant 
White’s service, and much attached to him—whether 
owing to a tremendous piece he took out of the calf 
of his leg with the wagon-whip when foreloping, and 
so gaining him proper respect, I cannot say. On 
one occasion Mahoutcha did his master good service. 
White had claimed, and outspanned on the spot, an ox 
which two powerful Boers had in their wagon, so 
they waylaid and suddenly attacked White at night, 



and lie fell over the dissel boom. Taking advantage 
of his mishap they fell upon him, and while they were 
all struggling together on the ground, White getting 
the worst of it, Mahoutcha seized the after-sjambok, 
and played into them with such terrible good-will 
that they instantly jumped up, and White caught the 
nearest on the under jaw, breaking it, and knocking 
him backwards over a flight of spiked rails. The 
other fled for his life. 

The whole country was entirely depopulated, 
hundreds of wagon loads of green mealies and amo- 
bella all going to waste. We passed heaps of Kaiflr 
traps, pillows, mats, calabashes, pots, sticks, and 
baskets, strewed about, evidently dropped in a hurry. 

14 th [Sunday ).— The whole air was tainted with 
dead bodies for the last twelve miles, which I walked 
against a head wind. They were lying in every pos¬ 
sible attitude along the road, men, women, and 
children of all possible sizes and ages; the warriors 
untouched, with their war-dresses on; but all in a 
dreadful state of decomposition. I was never so glad 
of anything in my hfe as of getting the Tugela 
between me and the dead; as what with the strong 
head wind, and the horrible effluvia, it was quite 
overpowering, and proved eventually too much for the. 
stomachs of even my Kaffirs. For a long time they 
endeavoured, by taking widish circles, to avoid 
treading on or coming very near the dead, being 
very superstitious; but as we neared the Tugela, the 
bodies lay so thick in the road and on each side that 



it was impossible to avoid them any longer. The Kaffirs 
walked very quickly, and never answered once any 
remark I made, appearing frightened as well as in¬ 
tensely disgusted, and no bribe that could be offered 
would induce a Kaffir to touch one. I saw many 
instances of mothers with babies on their hacks, with 
assegais through both, and children of all ages 
assegaied between the shoulder-blades. 

I met a portion of the victorious army returning, 
carrying branches of trees over Kitchwayo, walking 
very stately and slowly, teaching him to be a king, as 
they said. 

I was a little nervous as to my reception, but put a 
bold face on the matter, grounded my gun about 
forty yards off, and asked 4 Is all well P ’ when they 
did the same with their assegais, said 4 All is well with 
you,’ and we advanced and had a long parley, my 
fellows treading on my heels. They were very civil, 
and told me that as I had taken no part in the fight 
I was free to go and come wherever and whenever I 
liked, and all the oxen taken from the Englishmen 
should be sent to a large cattle-station on the Ums- 
latoose, and the owners must come in and claim them, 
and that those that had been slaughtered for food 
should be made good. Beer was broached, and, after 
some heavy pulls, we parted on the most amicable 

On arriving at the river, I saw about 150 poor 
wretches on the banks waiting to come across, as the 
river was full, and I had great difficulty in getting 



the boat to come over for me. After firing several 
salutes in vain, I was obliged to strip, to show that I 
was white. 

\hth .— I got the loan of a horse from Mr. Fynn, 
the magistrate, stationed there, and proceeded to the 
Umlila, where I had a horse of my own. All the 
way down I received numerous congratulations from 
all my acquaintances, and from many strangers, on 
having got out safely from among the savages. It 
was the general opinion that all the white men in 
the country would be killed; and Johnson, whom I 
left at the missionary station, and myself, constituted 
the all. 

I am tempted to add here a few anecdotes of 
adventures in buffalo-hunting, which befel me about 
this period: — 

One evening in the valley of the Tugela, on return¬ 
ing to my encampment, after a capital day’s sport 
(three hartebeests, an eland bull and buffalo bull), I 
was leading a fine grey mare, packed with the harte- 
beest skins, when I saw a huge beast before me so 
encased in mud that I at first took it for a rhinoceros. 
I let go the mare, and ran from behind unperceived 
very near, as it was walking slowly. It proved to be 
an enormous old bull buffalo, and the first intimation 
he got of my presence was a bullet in the centre of 
his big ribs. How he made the stones fly and clatter 
as he rushed down the hill! I reloaded, went back 
to the mare (which remained standing just where I 



left her, as all South African trained shooting-horses 
do for half a day or more, if required), and proceeded 
in the direction my old friend was making, not 
much expecting, however, to see anything more of 
him, and had given him up, as it was fast getting 
dark, when 1 saw the outline of a large beast under 
a shady thorn-tree, and had not quite made him out 
when he emerged and made at me. I threw a hasty 
glance around for a friendly tree, and then at the 
chances of getting on the mare’s back, but that was 
hopeless, as she was loaded with hides ; my arm was 
through the bridle rein, the bull mending his pace, 
and as I put my gun to my shoulder the mare, alarmed, 
jerked back and I fired a snap shot at his breast, not 
turning him in the least. The mare reared per¬ 
pendicularly and fell backwards ; the rein being 
through my arm, I also fell between her legs, and the 
brute went over us both, knocking the skin from the 
mare’s eye with a kick from his hind leg, and rattled 
along. I found him dead in the morning not 200 
yards off, my bullet having struck him in the centre 
of the chest. 

I saw across the Pongola an immense herd of 
buffaloes, and my fellows were most anxious that I 
should shoot them a fat cow. I got on a large open 
plain between them and their stronghold, the bush 
we were then in, and ensconced myself behind a very 
small low bush below the wind, with two double 
guns, and sent my fellows a long way round, above 
wind, to drive them towards me. There must have 



been 300, and they came directly for me, at a slow 
trot, making the earth shake, and raising clouds of 
dust. I lay as close as a hare in her form on the 
open plain ; nothing but this little shrub, perhaps 
three feet high and four feet in circumference, until 
the leaders of the herd were within three lengths, 
and I saw every probability of being trampled to 
death. I jumped into the air as high as possible, 
with a tremendous shout. The whole herd, for a 
few seconds, appeared panic-stricken, and remained 
stock still. I selected a sleek, glossy, dumpy cow, 
and fired, and never raised such a commotion in my 
existence. I was almost deafened by the rushing 
noise, and blinded by the dust. I fired, however, my 
other three barrels into the middle of the dust, but 
could hardly hear the report; and not until the 
dust cleared away, some 300 yards, I saw the whole 
herd going away, and my little pet, Smoke, at their 
heels. She picked the wounded cow out of the 
whole herd, stuck to her till she died, a mile ahead, 
and whilst we were trying to hit off her blood-spoor, 
came back to us, and trotted on ahead, and took us 
to the cow, the only one bagged. I relate this to 
show there is very little danger from a large troop. 

A buffalo is a dangerous animal, from being so very 
quick. One day I had stalked close up to some lying 
down in long grass, and had cautiously, by taking 
advantage of every opportunity, got to a forked tree 
within twenty yards, when I whistled low to alarm 
them gently, and they slowly rose. I fired at the 



best cow full in the breast, and sprang, at the same 
instant, almost into the fork, and was knocked out of 
it again as quickly with the tremendous charge she 
made against the trunk, almost splitting her skull, 
and rolling over dead at the tree-root, shot through 
the middle of the heart. Another time I and my 
companion both fired together at an old bull, hitting 
him hard, and I was chasing him at my best pace, for 
a second shot, when I became aware of another 
galloping alongside me, twenty-five yards to my 
right, on the open. I pulled up immediately, aimed 
forward, and fired, hitting him in front of the 
shoulder-blade, and, in all my experience, I never 
saw one knocked over like that. His legs flew from 
under him, and he lay sprawling some lengths ahead ; 
there was a low thorn-tree between us, with wide- 
spreading branches almost sweeping the ground, 
which I made for. He jumped up instantly and 
charged, arid as I ducked under on the lower side he 
came smack through, breaking off one of the main 
limbs on the upper side, and away he went, and I 
never set eyes on him more. We eventually bagged 
our first, my companion hitting him in the eye as 
he came on. 






May 25 th. — After many unforeseen delays, and 
losing our oxen for a week, we at length got away 
from Ladysmith,on our excursion into the far interior, 
with a heavy wagon, sixteen oxen, and seven salted 
horses. This pretty little town derives its name 
from Lady Smith, the wife of Sir Harry Smith, for¬ 
merly governor of the Cape Colony. It stands on 
the Klip river, about 150 miles from Durban, with a 
splendid view of Kelson’s Kop, Job’s Berg, and the 
range of the Drakensberg Mountains, about eighteen 
or twenty miles off, the dividing range between 
Natal and the Orange river Free State and Trans¬ 
vaal Republic. The finest view of the colony of Natal 
is from the ascent of the Drakensberg, from which 
it looks beautiful, well watered and wooded, and like 
a large well-kept garden when compared with the 
country on the other side, to the west, which is 
devoid of a stick of wood, flat, barren, and unprofit- 



able, but, notwithstanding, has good farms for horses 
and sheep. Harrysmith, just under the Table 
Mountain, never gets a glimpse of sun till about three 
hours’ high, and is a dreary, cold place in the winter. 

As the nights are very cold, with hard frost in the 
early mornings and high cutting winds; I have the 
nags blanketed up to the eyes. Game is very scarce ; 
a few quaggas and wildebeests, and some shy, wary 
ostriches, are all we have seen yet; the grass is as dry 
as a chip, and the oxen and horses must get poor, as it 
contains so little nourishment. Joubert shot a cow 
wildebeest last night, and, on my return from 
skinning her an hour after sunset, I thought mine 
the happiest life in the world: a snug wagon, a roaring 
fire of dry cow-dung, horses and oxen feeding close 
round the former, waiting for their mealies, and as 
tame as barn-door fowls; three fat ducks hissing and 
spitting away, just ready for supper; two lamps 
burning ; and all around my wagon-home one dreary 
flat waste, with no wood for days and days. It is a 
dull, uninteresting country, but the air is so bracing 
and healthy that you must be in high spirits, come 
what will. 

Poor Eagman, a faithful and plucky young dog 
of my own breeding, got a severe prod from the 
wildebeest last night behind the shoulder, and could 
scarcely limp home, but he will recover, and I hope 
the hint will make him more cautious for the future. 

June 8th. — We are now within nine hours of 
Mooi Eiver Town, nothing having happened on the 



road worth mentioning, except that we stuck fast 
once yesterday and had to unload, and that Donker, 
my best ox, is dead, having got at a poisonous kind of 
grass, called by the Dutch tulp, which has much the 
same effect upon them as a tremendous blow-out of 
clover, causing them to swell fearfully : this was the 
only casualty, but it was nearly being the same with 
several others.. 

We have been living well on koran, guinea fowl, 
wild ducks, springbuck, and blesbuck. I made an ex¬ 
change with old Luse, a Boer—tea, powder and lead, 
for bacon and sausages; and had two glasses of grog 
with him, as it was a bitter cold day; and lost two 
oxen, Quiman and Boman, for two days: they had 
taken the road home again. 

I had a tremendous fall from Jack yesterday, while 
hunting blesbuck, right into a new burn. I got up as 
black* as a nigger, but my horse was not in fault, as 
he is blind, and I was pushing him to his utmost 
speed, when he set his foot in a hole and rolled for 
yards—by no means an uncommon occurrence. I 
have had very many such spills ; and on two occasions 
found my double rifle with the muzzle facing me, and 
both barrels at full cock. While going at full speed, 
luck is all you have to trust to, clever though your 
horse may be ; an old shooting-horse is always on the 
look-out for holes, having himself a wholesome dread 
of them. There is frequently such a cloud of dust 
raised by the immense herds of game you are 
pursuing that you can see nothing, and, though you 



can often hear the bullet clap loudly, you must wait 
till the dust clears away to know what it is—quagga, 
wildebeest, blesbuck, or springbuck. I have fre¬ 
quently had herds of all these sorts in immense 
numbers scouring away before me and on all sides, 
amid such a cloud of stuff raised by their own 
tearing away that I never knew what I was firing at, 
my only endeavour being to aim low. I first saw the 
effects of my two barrels on the dust clearing away ; 
sometimes a couple of quaggas, and on one occasion 
three blesbuck, and several times three springbuck, not 
unfrequently a wildebeest; but most commonly nothing 
on the spot, though it is very usual for one or more to 
fall farther on or drop to the rear, being wounded. 
At these times good dogs are of immense service. 

I must mention my success at ducks yesterday, as 
it may never occur again. I marked six into a small 
water-hole and stalked well in upon them in the long 
grass, bagged four with the first barrel and dropped 
another with the second the instant he rose, and had 
but just time to load one barrel when the sixth flew 
round again, and I dropped him, thus bagging the 
whole lot in less than half a minute. They are 
large, fat, and delicious, and equal in flavour to any 
in England. Several hyenas have been following the 
wagon and frightening the Kaffirs, but the lions have 
not molested us; they only came to the wagon once, 
frightening old Graham, one of the horses, almost into 
fits. He got his back to the wheel, and snorted and 
blew as if he was choking. I had had them all well 




blanketed, and I think the lions could not make them 
out. Besides, we had a little moonlight, which makes 
the lions less daring than they are on dark nights. 
They are boldest when the nights are stormy. 

9 th. — Caught an armadillo alive, and made his 
tail fast with a rheim, and dragged him to the wagon 
through the long grass. The Kaffir had to exert all 
his strength, as the armadillo held on with his claws 
for his very life, and grasped the long grass con¬ 
vulsively, and had rolled himself as large as a 
haycock. Brought a letter of introduction from 
Dr. Kelly, resident magistrate of Klip river, and 
a present of books to Pretorius, President of the 
South African Republic. I donned my best attire to 
present them, and approached him with a low bow, 
as here he is all-powerful. The only remark after 
reading it was : — 4 What cost is there for the trans¬ 
port P ’ I was quite taken aback ; and this was all that 
passed between us. This was almost my first ac¬ 
quaintance with the Transvaal Dutchmen, and I did 
not then know their manners and customs. It is 
considered polite and the correct thing always to offer 
payment, to give them the opportunity of declining, 
you of course thanking them then for their kind¬ 
ness ; but I must say that very rarely, if ever, will 
they accept payment for food or anything taken 
in their own houses, and they are remarkably 

I did not anticipate any difficulty from Pretorius 
in getting into the interior, as peace had been declared, 



the Kaffirs all quiet, and free trade open all over the 
country. Windy, stormy, very cold weather. 

13 th. — My Kaffir Umgeba gave us the slip, and 
ran away on Thursday morning after getting the 
wagon started, and got four hours’ start ere we missed 
him; we immediately saddled up Graham and old 
Bryan, and went in chase. Anticipating a long ride, 
I crammed a couple of ducks and some biscuits and 
salt into a haversack, and put a blanket under my 
saddle; we rode back to Mooi Kiver Dorp, a good 
forty miles, never meeting a soul all the way, and 
never getting the spoor of the Kaffir; gave the horses 
some forage, and slept a short time in the stable till 
the moon was high, and started back, the coldest ride 
I ever had in my life; at last, was obliged to get off 
and run, to keep alive at all. I was never so anxious 
for sun-rise in all my life before, and it seemed as if 
he delayed his rising on purpose. Never a footprint 
of the wily savage; he fairly beat us, and knocked up 
our horses, and they can ill afford now to lose any 
flesh. I saw a man whom I formerly knew, a 
widower, with seven children, in the most abject cir¬ 
cumstances, and had not a scrap on earth to give 
them; his children are drafted out like hounds 
among the farmers, one here and one there. He 
would have me go with him to his place—merely a 
poll-house, he said, a temporary residence — and I 
was shocked to find nothing but the bare walls, a 
miserable bedstead and dry grass to sleep on, the 
lid of an old box on the floor, half a candle in 



the neck of a bottle, a few lucifers and a heap of 
tobacco, and, amid all this wretchedness, this poor 
fellow (a thorough Irishman) trying to seem happy, 
and he said he often laughed to himself to think, in 
case of a fire, what a small sufferer he would be. 
He almost exists on tobacco, and assures me that he 
often does not eat for several days together — yet 

he talks of his father’s (the Hon.-) rent-roll, 

12,546/. 9s. 3 d. per annum ; but I think he is slightly 
deranged. That is the second instance only of abject 
poverty that I have met with in this colony. 

Treked on to a Dutchman of the name of Yessell 
Bartness last night, through a beautiful country of 
dense thornwood, quite a relief to the eye after the 
endless plains we have come through. This is truly 
a sweet spot, a lovely stream meandering through 
thorn covered with water-cresses, a magnificent 
orchard, and the oranges and lemon trees covered 
now, in the middle of winter, with delicious fruit, 
but I thought to-day I had come nearly to the end 
of civilisation when I was offered half a farm, 3,000 
acres, in exchange for a plough. Joubert shot two 
springbucks yesterday with one bullet. 

14:th [Sunday ).— One of the finest days I ever 
beheld. This is certainly the finest climate in the 
world, at this season of the year. We have now had 
six or seven weeks of uninterrupted lovely weather, 
and every prospect of a long continuance; I took a 
stroll to-day, and had a beautiful view, and thought 
of home and friends, and the chances of my ever 



returning to England. I was much amused last night 
at my Kaffirs trading with the Maccateese for ostrich 
feathers ; they could not understand one word of each 
other’s language, and my fellows were trying to make 
them believe buttons were money, and would buy of 
the white man cows, horse, or gun, and eventually 
succeeded in buying a lot of black feathers for ten 
buttons. I lost my supper in waiting to see the re¬ 
sult. The Maccateese brought heaps of mealie kops 
to make a big light lest they should be cheated, and 
went through the most frightful gesticulations. 

15 th .—Bought some meal, oranges, potatoes and 
dry peaches, the latter very cheap, 2s. a stable bucket- 
full ; left Younkman behind dead lame in the hip ; 
outspanned for the night at a Boer’s. 

1.6 fA.—Of course my oxen had been on the land, 
my dogs had eaten the frau’s soup, and I must 
pay damages. I gave some lead, coffee and sugar, 
as they were decent people, barring stealing my curb- 
chain, which is a great nuisance, as I cannot replace 
it. Arrived about mid-day at Joubert’s, to whom I 
lent four oxen in Natal when he was on his last legs; 
received a most hearty welcome, but he has only a 
hartebeest house made of reeds, and the good wife 
was sorry she had nothing in the world to give 
us but flesh, and set us down to a large dish full 
of broiled wildebeest—rather poor fare for a weary 
traveller, but I had still some biscuits left, and we 
made out pretty well. The repast was hardly ac¬ 
cording to English notions ; but I am well used now 



to life in a colony, and I received a most hearty 
welcome, which is more than half the battle. There 
are lots of game. here, and a nice thorny country. 
I like the place much, and shall probably stay ten 
days or more, as the oxen are fairly used up. 

Ylth .—Had a long ramble to-day; shot a fall raebuck 
and springbuck, and saw plenty of guinea fowls. 
The horses got frightened by a hyena last night and 
took themselves off. I heard them galloping, but it was 
too dark to follow. I have only recovered four as yet, 
but two Jouberts and a Kaffir are now out looking for 
the rest. I think they must have taken the road back, 
as I have been up to the highest hills and can see 
nothing of them. There is a severe frost every night, 
and we have a baking-pot full of fire in the house, 
and huddle around it in the evenings just as we do 
at home — something new for Africa. 

When I arrived, my host and his family, who are 
capital hunters, were almost out of ammunition. Franz 
had killed, mirabile dictu , with the same bullet, three 
or four hartebeest bulls, the shyest and most difficult 
of approach of all the antelope tribe, and very tough 
also. He was off at daylight, sparing neither time 
nor trouble in stalking till he made sure of his shot, 
putting just sufficient powder to drive the bullet 
through to the skin on the other side, then cutting it 
out and reloading. Each skin was worth to him 
about twelve to fifteen shillings when tanned. Poor 
fellow ! he met with a sad accident shortly after. The 
lions killed his horse in the middle of the day, a very 



unusual occurrence. He vowed vengeance for the 
future, and some days afterwards he and his brother 
John saw three, and they immediately gave chase on 
foot. Franz overtook and cut off the last, and stood 
in the path ready to receive her, and as she came on 
covered her steadily and pulled, when his weapon, a 
flint, missed fire ; the gun missed fire a second time, 
when the lioness sprang on him, clawing and biting 
him frightfully, crippling and disabling him for life. 
She was grinding away at his thigh when John got 
up and pluckily shot her dead on his body. I have 
heard him tell the story in the coolest manner 
possible, saying he must have shot her through and 
through if the old gun had not missed, and regretting 
he had not had a doppi-roer (percussion gun). Another 
similar instance happened to a Boer at Scoon Spruit, 
not far distant. The lions frightened the oxen 
treking in a wagon one very dark night. The Boer 
jumped off to try and stop them, but the pace being 
too fast he jumped up on the trap behind while the 
oxen were going at full gallop. The lion sprang on 
him, pulled him off, killed and ate him on the road, 
and his brother, on searching for him in the morning, 
found the lion still there. He coolly dismounted, and 
shot him dead on the remains of his brother’s body. 

27 th .— Had a shocking bad cold and headache, 
a kind of influenza, the last ten days, and have con¬ 
sequently not been doing much. Found the horses 
two days after losing them, on the road back. Killed 
yesterday, after a great amount of toil, a bird strange 



to me, called here the Mamaqua partridge—a dirty- 
brown, yellow neck, long tail, forked wings, and 
feathered to the toes like a grouse; his head somewhat 
resembles a partridge, and he has half a horse-shoe 
across his breast; he is plump and fat, but only half 
the size of an English bird; his flights are very long 
and quick, and he makes a whistling noise not unlike 
a golden plover; he is speckled over the back and 
wings with a blueish, greyish, yellowish brown, if 
the reader can form any idea what a mixture of those 
colours would look like. 

I shot yesterday a large crested bustard, the fattest 
and largest I have ever seen ; not being able to weigh 
him, we can only guess, but the lowest estimate is 
fifty pounds Dutch, fifty-four English. The only 
utensil we could hit upon that was big enough to 
cook him in was a soap-boiler, which he just fitted, 
and in which he was admirably baked and served 
at table every day for a week ; we rendered down 
more than a bottle full of oil from his inside fat, 
which is the very best thing you can use for guns. 

I made up my mind to-day I could go no farther; the 
oxen and horses are too poor, and the winter is very 
severe. I must put off for another year, as my oxen 
could not possibly trek my wagon through the 
heavy sands in their present condition, and the grass 
is so dry and so scarce that I fear they will have 
enough to do to get through the winter without work. 
I feed the horses nightly on Kaffir corn, which I trade 
from the natives for beads, knives, copper wire, &c., 



but it is very dear here. I must try and sell my 
wagon for oxen, stores, &c., and go back to Natal, 
leaving my horses and oxen here in charge of Joubert 
until the end of next April, when I must try again. 
There is plenty of game here, but none of any value, 
except ostriches, which are now in splendid plumage, 
but shy and wary to a degree. I have never been able 
yet to get a shot at them, though I watched twelve 
yesterday for several hours. Wildebeest, quagga, 
hartebeest,blesbuck,and springbuck, with a sprinkling 
of duikers, and steinbuck, roy and fall raebuck, we see 
every day we go out, but they are the only kinds here, 
and of little or no value, and are dry eating. Koran, 
plenty of guinea-fowl and peaus, with a few partridges, 
are all the winged game ; but I have hardly any shot, 
and no dogs worth a rap, for small-winged game, 
though first-rate for bucks of all sorts. The Boers 
have not civilised the natives much, for I saw them 
every day getting water in an old ox-horn; nothing 
could well be more primitive, and they dress entirely 
in skins, killing numbers of bucks in pit-falls. These 
pit-falls resemble a honeycomb, and the Kaffirs muster 
in great force and drive the game helter-skelter over 
the holes, and they knock one another in ; the holes 
are of all shapes, round, oval, oblong, square, and 
there are generally about fifty in one pass, and fifteen 
or twenty passes in a space of two miles of country. 
A strong fence on each side confines the game, which 
have thus no opportunity of escape. 

July 5 th (Sunday).—Had a visit yesterday from 



Masau, a Coranna chief, and seven of his followers, 
all well mounted. He agreed to buy my wagon for 
twenty-five fat oxen, which I expect to be here to¬ 
morrow for inspection ; they drank any amount of 
coffee, and put in sugar ad libitum . I then gave 
them some oranges, and they carefully preserved the 
pips —old Masau claims one of my horses, which he 
says he lent a Dutchman to ride home to his farm 
four years ago, after buying his wagon; all his people 
swear to the horse and to the cropping of his ears, so 
I fear I must give him up, as I have no doubt he is 
their horse, for no white man would cut a horse’s 
ears off to bleed him; but I don’t see who is to re¬ 
compense me for my loss, for I bought and paid for 

The reader will perhaps excuse my giving here an 
account of a night I once passed on the open veldt 
on the Feight Kop road between the Yaal river and 
Harrysmith, on returning to Natal from Mooi Eiver 

The wagons had been quietly treking along over an 
immense open country without wood for nine days, 
when one beautiful afternoon I mounted Adrian to 
shoot a wildebeest, Hopeful, a splendid stag-hound, 
accompanying me. As far as the eye could reach, 
the road apparently ran straight, and I took to the 
right, knowing I must come back to hit the road 
again, when we could see at once by the spoor 
whether or not our wagons had passed, and follow 
on or go back accordingly. 



Game took me farther than I intended, and the 
wagons must have diverged to the left, for I could 
never cross the track again, and as the sun went down 
I began to get very uneasy and very chilly, a shirt 
and trousers being all my attire. Just after sunset 
jackals first began to make their appearance, and a 
flac fare (veldt pig) came out of a hole near me; 
this I shot for supper, and then found I had forgotten 
my knife, and could not get through his skin. As 
darkness fast set in, I knee-haltered my horse to feed, 
and began to try and collect dung for a fire, but could 
find little or none, and was forced to give up the 
attempt, and, before it was quite dark, I caught 
Adrian, drove my iron ramrod deep into the ground 
with the heel of my boot, and made him fast to that 
with the rheim, which is invariably round all our 
horses’ necks. I curled myself up for warmth — a 
saddle-cloth less than two feet square being my only 
covering. There was a bitter cold white frost, and a 
dense mist, and, like an idiot, I had got into a valley 
by a vley of water, the very coldest spot I could have 
chosen, and the long grass soon began to get reeking 
wet. I tried every dodge and device to make Adrian 
lie down, hitting him below the knees with my gun- 
barrels, making the poor old horse lift one leg up 
after another, as if he was standing on hot cinders. 
I next stood and leant against him on the lee side, 
and then tried lying down again, and tore up a 
regular hole in the ground with my teeth, and was 
half choked with soil. A concert was going on 



round me of lions, hyenas, and jackals, mingled with 
the snorting and stamping of wildebeests, barking of 
quaggas, and the occasional rushing away of spring¬ 
buck or blesbuck into the darkness, as they came 
noiselessly towards the water, and first got our wind. 
Expecting lions every moment, I put my handker¬ 
chief round the lock of my gun, to keep it as dry as 
possible, and prevent its missing fire, as everything 
was reeking wet, and sat cross-legged, almost be¬ 
tween Adrian’s fore legs, as I made sure they would 
attack him, being proverbially fond of horse-flesh. 
After being in this frightful state of suspense an hour 
at least, with their low subdued growls on all sides, 
as they kept moving round, they left me, Hopeful 
now and then giving vent to a low savage growl; but 
I kept him near me, as there was a sense of protec¬ 
tion in even an animal; and his time and attention 
were devoted and fully occupied in licking carefully 
two holes in his chest, just previously made by a 
wild boar, who carried him bodily away on the 
points of his tusks, full fourteen yards. I shot it in 
the breast, and it fell on its knees. Hopeful rushed 
in at it, when it jumped up, prodded him, and carried 
him away this distance, when it fell over dead, most 
probably shot through the heart. 

I suffered dreadfully from cold, and was getting 
worse. I at last hit upon the following device : I 
made loose my stirrup-leathers, put one round Hope¬ 
ful’s loins, and buckled it loosely above my knees ; 
then put the other behind his shoulder, between 



his fore legs, bringing it back over his neck ; buckled 
it loosely, and slipped my head and my left arm and 
shoulder through. Being a shy brute, as most 

of the greyhound breed are, on finding himself fast 
he got alarmed, and began to struggle tremendously, 
handling and snapping like a baited fox. I threw 
myself down (he on the top of me), held his black 
muzzle fast with my left hand, turned half over, 
and, having my right hand free, hammered into 
his ribs with my fist till I knocked every particle 
of breath out of his body, and half suffocated him 
at the same time by keeping his mouth shut. His 
struggles for some time were fearful: he foamed at 



the mouth as if he were rabid. I was hardly sure if 
I had not killed him, but as I relaxed my grasp on 
his muzzle, he gradually came to, when I tightened 
the leathers and gave him a repetition of the above, 
when inclined to be refractory. At last, my voice 
had the desired effect, and he lay on the top of 
me all night; and I firmly believe the warmth of 
his body was the means of saving my life, as I 
was so cold I could do nothing till the sun was 
high. It must have been an unusually cold night, 
as I saw wildebeests get up so stiff they could 
hardly stir for many minutes. When I eventually 
got the use of my limbs, I took very violent exer¬ 
cise, to set the blood in circulation ; went to the 
highest visible ground, and fired my first shot into 
an ant-heap, that I might recover my bullet, and 
then, having plenty of powder, fired some tremen¬ 
dous heavy charges with six inches of grass, tightly 
hammered down, to make a terrific report, but no 
answer ; and knowing I must, by going due east, 
come to the sea at last, I took that course, and about 
eleven o’clock saw a faint smoke; made for it at 
once, and found the remains of a large fire, which 
my party had left burning as a guide for me. They 
had passed the night there, and gone on ; and after 
off-saddling a bit, I followed the spoor, and overtook 
them about 4 p.m. 

Proudfoot and Schikkerling, my companions, had 
been all the morning in quest of me, firing innumer¬ 
able shots, and the former quite sure I should even- 



tually turn up, though I was quite given up by the 
rest, as the veldt was known to be full of lions. 

I was truly thankful to reach the wagons, which 
was all a matter of chance, as I knew no more where 
the wagon-track was than Hopeful did ; and I am 
convinced, even if I could have got food and fire, I 
should hardly have weathered two more such nights, 
and I might have gone seven or eight before coming 
across any habitation. 

Wild boars are dangerous things. A friend of 
mine, once, on chasing a very large one to ground, 
made a large fire and smoked him out. He rushed 
through smoke and flames, and vented his rage on 
the horse, goring him terribly. He eventually re¬ 
covered, after a deal of time and trouble. They 
afford excellent sport, however, with good dogs, with 
or without a rifle. Proudfoot and myself, one morn¬ 
ing, stuck five before breakfast with large clasp 
knives. We had excellent dogs, well up to the sport, 
holding on like vices, each by an ear. Frequently, 
when they make for holes, down which they invari¬ 
ably go tail first, give them a little time, and jump a 
few times heavily above them, three or four together, 
and they bolt like rabbits. 

I have chased a jackall into a porcupine’s hole, 
and the inmates have at once driven him out, choos¬ 
ing rather to trust his life once more to his heels 
than have his whole body stuck full of quills — 
almost as bad a predicament as a fellow-traveller (a 
wagon-driver) assured me happened to him once. 



After outspanning on the same road, during the 
time the oxen were grazing he strolled out to try to 
kill a buck. He wounded a steinbuck very badly, 
and was almost catching him, when he got into a hole. 
He had a dog with him, but it was chasing spring¬ 
buck, so he went head first into the hole himself, and 
succeeded in reaching the buck, but, in his endea¬ 
vours, had got so far that he could not make an 
effort to get back; his arms were right before 
him, and his back wedged fast. He struggled so 
hard that he became insensible, and must have been 
all but suffocated, when his dog (bull and pointer—I 
have often seen it) saved his life by going back to the 
wagon, and attracting the notice of his Kaffirs, who 
followed the dog to his master’s assistance, and dug 
him out more dead than alive, having been about 
five hours in this situation. 

August 1 Qth [Sunday). — I have sadly neglected 
my log for six weeks past, and must now hark 
back again. Having sold my wagon to a Coranna 
for thirty oxen, and all my goods and chattels 
also for oxen, I went to Hartebeest Fontein to buy 
a cart, to go at once to Graham’s Town. I there fell 
in with Mr.Vermaas, who was just starting into Merico 
country, and I changed my plans, and agreed to go 
with him — myself finding powder, lead, coffee, and 
sugar — and, as we meant shooting giraffes, I laid 
in a stock of forage for my nags, and bought a 
new one for four oxen, and started next day for 
Merico, to meet his son, who had been elephant- 



hunting, and bring out the ivory. We were seven 
days in getting to our destination, having gone far 
out of the way. Swartz and young Vermaas had 
got back, having had a glorious hunt. They had 
shot twenty large bulls, besides what they traded 
from the Kaffirs, and the sight of so much fine ivory 
determined me at once to lose no time in trying 
to get among the mighty bulls; and, Swartz going 
in again shortly, I agreed to go with him, and to 
find a span of oxen — he to bring out all the 
ivory I got so far; and I at once started back 
again for my oxen, horses, guns, &c. I dis¬ 
posed of Graham for seven oxen, and also my 
double gun, for 141 lbs. of ivory, two very fine 
teeth, which had, however, only cost Swartz eight 
pounds of beads and two bullets. 

I made the best of my way back to Harte- 
beest Fontein, and, taking the right road, and tra¬ 
velling day and night, I got there in four days ; 
bought a cart for 15/., and two dogs also — a 
bull and greyhound, a perfect model, Torey by 
name, and a well-bred pointer bitch, which I christ¬ 
ened Donna, and got back to Joubert’s the following 
day, having been away three weeks. Found all 
well; one ox dead or lost. John had sold 4 The 
Saxon ’ for six oxen, which I was very sorry for, 
as he had had the sickness, and was a quiet shooting 
pony; but it was my fault. 

I left fifty-four oxen in charge of Joubert, and 
John and myself started, two days after, back again 




to Merico, with nine oxen and five horses, and 
five guns, four dogs, &c., and arrived at Swartz’s 
in five days. We had the company of an Eng¬ 
lishman on the road, Metcalf by name, whom I 
met in the Merico country, and I offered to give 
him my beads, blankets, knives, &c., to trade 
for me on halves ; and, thinking this no doubt too 
good an offer to be overlooked, he forthwith hired 
a wagon, and turned up at Joubert’s the day be¬ 
fore we started to come here, so we made fast 
the cart behind the wagon, and all came toge¬ 
ther. I was not sorry to have a wagon to tie 
the horses and oxen to at night in the Lion veldt, 
instead of my cart; for, in the event of their 
paying us a visit, the beasts would most undoubtedly 
have smashed my cart all to pieces; however, we 
had a fine moon, and they did not come near us, 
though I saw ten in the day-time. 

The Merico country is a beautiful land, and most 
fertile and productive; the crops splendid, and 
fruit ad libitum . It is warm, and well wooded, 
but a little short of water. There are no rivers, 
only one or two small streams, and plenty of foun¬ 
tains ; but it is a charming country to live in— 
hilly, rather too stony, but with large fertile val¬ 
leys intervening. The only drawback is the great 
scarcity of game, and yet a more likely country 
I never saw, and I cannot account for it. My dogs 
are looking poor, and, were it not for some lung- 
sick oxen, which die very opportunely, I don’t 



know what they would do. I wrought hard for 
them all day yesterday on Darby, whom I left 
behind here, a bag of bones, and he carried me 
as fresh as a lark over a vast extent of land, but 
I never burnt powder. This is the last house in 
the Merico country ; the Boers have not penetrated 
farther, though I consider them first-rate pioneers 
in a new land. We are only four days from 
Sechele, a very powerful Maccateese chief. Swartz 
is now not going to start until the 31st August, 
so I have a fortnight to kick my heels about here, 
with nothing to do ; but I am not sorry for it 
on the horses’ and oxen’s account, for we have 
had two days’ rain, and the new grass is springing 
up fast and green, and there will soon be a marked 
improvement in the appearance of the animals. 
They have had a hard winter — cold, frosty, and 
windy—to contend with, and very little grass. 

We were treated most hospitably and kindly by 
one and all the Boers in the neighbourhood, and 
Swartz kept a capital table, and an almost open 
house, there being lots of visitors every day, and 
a soupii, or a glass of Cape brandy, for every 
one. The flasks were never off the table, and the 
day invariably wound up by target-shooting, at 
which the Dutch are great adepts. A yokeskey 
at 100 yards, or a bottle, was frequently the mark, 
and sometimes the crack shots called for Eau de 
Cologne flasks, short, squab little things, no higher 
than a wine glass, and looking uncommonly small at 



100 yards, which were, notwithstanding, frequently 
smashed. Horse-racing was another amusement, 
which consisted in letting the bridle loose on the 
horse’s neck, and going at it hammer and tongs, 
legs and arms, and flogging all the way: 1,000 
yards the distance. The Boers are also great musi¬ 
cians, and very fond of dancing, and appear to 
live exceedingly happily. Many of the Dutch 
noes, or young maidens, are very pretty; and 
they are a very moral set of people. They have 
a singular custom of first becoming acquainted. If 
you admire any one in particular, you take the 
first opportunity that presents itself of asking her 
to upsit. Should this be accorded, when the old 
people and all the rest of the household have 
retired, a curtain frequently being all the partition 
between the sitting and bed-rooms, the chosen one 
again appears, with a candle, short or long, accord¬ 
ing as she fancies you or otherwise, and remains 
as long as that burns, all conversation being car¬ 
ried on in whispers, and the fair one being obliged to 
sit very close and talk very low, for fear of disturb¬ 
ing the inmates on the other side of the curtain. 
These upsits frequently last far on into the morn¬ 
ing, and the happy swain is at great pains to 
trim the candle — not let it flicker or flare, or 
get into a draft, and so keep it burning as long 
as possible, for it is imperative to retire when that 
is out. 

I have been present, stretched on the floor, on 



a blanket (asleep, apparently, no doubt), when two 
upsittings have been going on, at opposite corners of 
a large room, all still as the grave, but the subdued 
whisperings of the happy pairs. 

There is something very charming about the whole 
proceeding; at all events, it had the effect of banish¬ 
ing all inclination to sleep, and I came to the conclu¬ 
sion that taking an active part for the future would 
be far more preferable than again being merely a 
passive spectator. 

They are a primitive, hospitable, good-hearted 
set ; marry very young ; live to a good old age 
generally; and very frequently have large fami¬ 
lies, and most of them are very comfortably off, 
and take things very easy. Some of the poorer, 
however, both live and work very hard; but their 
wants are few, as they are brought up to do every¬ 
thing for themselves. Groceries, prints, and mole¬ 
skin are all the poorer classes buy, except powder 
and lead; almost all other requirements they make 
for themselves. And the upsitting business I con¬ 
sider about the best of their old customs. All 
matches are then and there clenched, provided you 
are both of one mind, and brought to a speedy 
conclusion : no very long engagements, for no pur¬ 
pose whatever. The dower of the bride generally 
consists in some cows, sheep, and goats; a span of 
oxen (twelve), and a quiet riding horse — if the 
bridegroom can furnish about the same, with a 
wagon. They start life very comfortably, and with 



every prospect before them of eventually becoming 
rich in stock, which is money; for they have a good 
custom likewise, when a child is born, of making 
over a cow, a ewe, and a goat ewe, which are never 
parted with, and, by the time he or she is married, 
they have the increase of this lot to start life with 
for themselves. They have, however, previously 
sold more or less to provide themselves with luxu¬ 
ries, a good rifle, riding horse, and wagon for the 
men — dress, bonnets, and knicknacks for the 
women ; and they buy all the most expensive things 
that can be procured from the Cape or elsewhere. 
And a 4 kop-spuiling ’ horse, a brute that is always 
tossing his head, being sharply bitted and curbed for 
the purpose, is indispensable for a dandy young Boer 
in his courting days, and eagerly enquired for. 

September 1st. — I have been doing all sorts of 
things the last fortnight, endeavouring to expedite 
our departure — tent and sail-maker, painter, shoe¬ 
maker, doctor, &c., by turns ; and we have still 
a good week’s work before us, partly owing to the 
sickness of a baby, which I have been expecting 
to die every day. 

The wild dogs got amongst my oxen the other 
night, biting three (one severely), and killing one. 
It was a pitch dark, cold, rainy night; and last 
night the wolves killed one of Swartz’s, and bit two 

I sold Jack for six yellow inoculated oxen, as he 
was too blind to do any good in the bush, though in 



all other respects unexceptionable. I have now only 
four horses left. 

Breakfasted on a buttered ostrich egg this morn¬ 
ing : it was excellent, but five of us could not quite 
manage it. Traded half a dozen large leather 
sacks from the Maccateese for beads, very cheap ; 
they will hold two muids apiece, and are beau¬ 
tifully braided and sewn. I am very anxious to 
be off; I have shot next to nothing here, for the 
best of all reasons — there is nothing, except a 
small troop of impala, very shy. I got one — a 
200 yards shot at least. One wagon we have been 
painting up to sell to Mosilikatse, and have taken 
extra pains. It comprises nearly all the gaudy 
colours of the rainbow : whether Dutch taste, or 
in order to take the eye of the savage, I know not. 

I wrote a long letter home a week ago, which 
will not go, however, for probably two months, if it 
ever reaches its destination. There is no post, and 
no opportunity of sending to any post town. They 
are at least a century behind the rest of the civilised 
world here, but appear to live very happily and 

lOtfA. — Still here, but we have got all ready for 
a start on Monday, the 14th. The baby is dead 
and buried. Jack nearly frightened his purchaser 
to death, and he returned him, which I am not 
sorry for. Swartz bought eleven goats and sheep 
from the Maccateese, and, having no one to herd 
them, they made back ; and yesterday the Kaffirs 



brought two wretched lean skeletons, half eaten, 
being all that the wolves and wild dogs had left out 
of the flock. They were out only one night. 

My Kaffir, Matakit, upset the kettle of boiling 
water over his bare foot the other day, and took 
about as much notice of it as I should have done 
with a strong shooting-boot on. They have regular 
hides, not skin at all. 

I was amused at seeing four Dutch women — two 
old and two young — sharpening their knives on the 
door-step, preparatory to cutting the throat of a huge 
goat, which they did, and then skinned and cut him 
up in a masterly style, without showing the slightest 
feeling whatever, though they had a good fight ere 
they could throw him: altogether, too manly an ex¬ 
hibition to heighten my opinion of them. A German 
missionary has outspanned here on his way to Natal, 
just giving me time to write a line home. 

15 tli .—-At last, made a start with three wagons, 
nine horses, and forty-two oxen. Lots of salutes 
firing on both sides. Got only to Moiloi’s, and laid 
in a store of Kaffir corn. 

1 6 th. — Passed through a beautiful country, along 
a well-wooded valley. Came to Mr. Edwards’s old 
station, which is well situated, and has a fine garden, 
but the buildings, which are very large and substan¬ 
tial, are all going to ruins. A great deal of pains have 
been taken here ; the chapel is now converted into 
a dwelling-house for Kaffirs, curs, &c. I saw half- 
a-dozen of the latter stretched before the remains of 



a huge log-fire in the middle of the floor. Kleinboy, 
Gordon Cumming’s old after-rider, joined us this 
morning. He is an amusing little dog. 

YHJi. -—On getting up in the morning, found all 
the neck-straps from three wagons, and the trenches, 
eaten by the starved curs before mentioned, which 
gave occasion for a scrimmage between Swartz and 
their owner, a Hottentot. We sent for a skin to 
mend damages, and the Tottie was impudent; words 
soon came to blows, and the Tottie covered his re¬ 
treat manfully, keeping his head well up, and ward¬ 
ing off the blows like a master hand, and putting one 
in occasionally, straight from the shoulder. It was 
all made up over a bottle of grog, ten minutes after¬ 
wards, and, when all repairs were completed, we 
treked again. 

Saw tsessebes for the first time, and had a long 
burst after them on horseback, but did not get a 
shot. .Jack sprained his fetlock badly, but I reduced 
the inflammation by cold water bandages and opening 
the place. 

1 8th. —Had a long ride in quest of giraffes ; saw 
spoor only. Bacon lagged behind, very sick. John 
bled him in the mouth, and left a Kaffir behind to 
bring him slowly on. I overtook him on the road, 
and found him nearly bled to death, and had great 
difficulty in taking up the vein; he fell several times 
from exhaustion. I eventually succeeded with horse¬ 
hair, twisted with a small stick, and made fast 
on his upper jaw, under his upper lip, but not 



until I had broken off two needles in the roof of his 
mouth. He had been ailing long, and I bled him 
copiously ten days ago, all to no purpose, for he died 
soon after we went to bed. He was a cream colour, 
with black points. The horse-sickness is very bad in 
this country. 

19/A. — Hot a bit of meat at the wagons. John 
and Swartz started early on horseback for a koodoo, 
tsessebe, or giraffe. I went on with the wagons, 
and they came up where we outspanned, having 
killed nothing. 

I took a cup of coffee and a biscuit, and again 
saddled up for a giraffe. I rode old Bryan, a tall, 
narrow-built, ewe-necked, remarkably long blue- 
skimmel horse, resembling very much in appearance 
the animal we went to hunt, but with a great depth 
of shoulder and breadth of chest, and good girth, and 
some capital points about him, though an ungainly, 
ugly brute, and very heavy in hand, with no mouth 
whatever. We shortly met six Kaffirs, who told us 
they had seen fresh spoor of a troop of giraffes, and 
turned back to show us. We followed the spoor 
some four miles, through thorns, and very stony and 
bad travelling, ascending the different heights to try 
to see them, but always following the spoor as fast 
as the Kaffirs could keep up. I saw them first, full 
500 yards off, seven or eight of them, and, on 
whistling for Swartz, they immediately took right 
away, with a tremendous start. We made good 
play, at a swinging gallop, right through bush and 



stones, and, after a long burst, I came within twenty 
yards of them, when Bryan stopped in fear and 
trembling of the huge unwieldy brutes. I plied 
him sharply with the spurs, and got him once more 
under weigh, keeping above the wind, as the giraffes 
have a strong effluvium, which frightens horses unused 
to them. We came out on the open, Swartz forty or 
fifty yards in advance of me, and as far behind the 
giraffes. The sight of the other horse gave Bryan 
confidence, and he bounded away in good style, and 
was alongside instantly, when they again dashed into 
thick bush ; here Swartz turned out a cow, the very 
one I had set my mind on, and I at once took after 
a large bull. Now he bounded away with his tail 
screwed round like a corkscrew, and going in one 
bound as far as I went in three. Bryan crashed 
through everything, and I tore my hands, arms, and 
shirt to pieces. 

At length I got nearly alongside him, and fired, 
hitting him high in the neck, and taking no effect 
whatever on him. Here I got a pull on Bryan and 
managed to re-load, still going on at a smart gallop, 
and once more got alongside, and, in trying to pull 
up to dismount, he went bang into a bush, which 
brought him up short, and he had to back out, the 
giraffe meanwhile getting 100 yards in advance. I 
soon made up the lost ground, and headed him, 
endeavouring to turn him, but he slewed round 
like a vessel in full sail, bearing down almost on 
the top of me, with his huge fore legs as high in 



the air as the horse’s back. I had lots of chances 
to dismount, but had no command of my nag, his 
mouth was dead ; but there was not a sign of flagging 
about him. I steered him close alongside on the 
near side, held out my gun in one hand, within .two 

yards of the giraffe’s shoulder, and fired. The gun 
shot over my head, and nearly broke my middle 
finger, and down came the giraffe, with a tremendous 
crash, with his shoulder smashed to atoms. I must 
have had a desperately heavy charge of powder in, 
as I loaded at random. 

Bryan was as still as a post instantly, and I lost not 
a moment in off-saddling him, ere I inspected my first 



giraffe, and then put the saddle-cloth over my bare 
head, as the sun was intensely hot. 

I must have had nearly five miles through hack- 
thorns and stones of all sizes, as straight as the crow 
flies. I followed him about twenty yards in the 
rear for a mile at least, the stones rattling past my 
head occasionally. Whenever the ground favoured, 
and I made a spurt, he did the same, appearing to 
have no end of bottom, and Bryan, though he has 
a long swinging gallop and strained every nerve, 
could not come up with him for a long time. 

Swartz killed his cow about a mile back, with one 
shot in the stern, about one hundred yards off. John 
had nothing at all to say to it, being badly mounted, 
and the giraffes going straight away. Cut off his mane 
and tail as a trophy, and the tongue and marrow¬ 
bone for immediate use; and Swartz and John 
coming up, we went to his giraffe, which was the 
fattest for meat. The Kaffirs were there, and I 
offered them some beads to find my hat. 

20 th [Sunday ).—We don’t travel to-clay. I de¬ 
spatched all the Kaffirs and dogs for meat early this 
morning, as it was late when we got back last night. 
The Kaffirs have just brought my hat, having fol¬ 
lowed the spoor from the dead giraffe. Supped on 
his heart and marrowbone : the meat is really tender 
and good. 

21 st. — Treked to Kolobeng, and saw the remains 
of Dr. Livingstone’s house, which the Boers pillaged 



when they sent a command out against Sechele. On 
saddling Darby, I perceived a swelling above the 
eyes — a sure sign of the horse-sickness. Bled him 
copiously, and rode Croppy instead. Shot two roy- 
bucks, and outspanned for the night, without reach¬ 
ing water. 

22nd. — Saddled up Bryan early, and we all went 
to try for a giraffe : soon lost one another, in chase 
of tsessebes. On reaching the road, I saw fresh 
wagon-spoor, and rode on to Sechele’s, and was 
well treated by two German missionaries, who have 
lately come. Mr. Schroeder was one, whom I 
slightly knew in Natal. Lost Bagman and Smouse : 
the latter found the wagons ; the former, I fear, I 
shall see no more. 

23 rd. — The wagons arrived, and we soon had a 
visit from Sechele, a fine, intelligent-looking Kaffir, 
and well dressed, but having too good an opinion of 
himself. He said I must go back again, he would 
not have strangers coming into his country to hunt; 
and, besides, I had not treated him with proper re¬ 
spect, in not first going to see him. I managed to 
explain to him, at last, satisfactorily, the reasons 
why and wherefore I had not done so, which were, 
that on riding up to some women working in a 
garden to ask the way, they fled precipitately, 
throwing everything down, and shrieking for aid. 
Then I must make him a present, to show I was 
well-disposed towards him ; and, when this was done, 
he shook hands, and we were friends. 



Darby very bad: I bled and blistered him severely, 
but all to no purpose; he died in the night, putting 
me sadly about, as I depended solely on him. He 
was as good a bit of stuff as ever was put together. 
The Kaffirs bring all sorts of things to the wagons to 
trade, but charge very high, and principally want 
powder, and lead, and caps. They reckon the Kaffirs 
here to amount to 20,000 ; and Sechele himself lives 
on the top of a huge berg, with kraals all around in 
every direction. They are an independent lot of 
Kaffirs, and have no end of guns. Some fellows from 
Phillipolis have been here the last week, putting 
them in order for his people. 

Old Keffler, a Hottentot driver, took himself home 
again this morning, without giving any reason, or 
even saying he was going. 

2 ith. — Spent a lazy day at the wagons, .the 
weather being very hot. Some fine karosses came, 
but all wanted guns or powder in exchange, and took 
them away again. Tried to buy a horse from the 
Bastards for a gun, but they were going in to hunt, 
and could not miss one. Lots of ostrich feathers 
and eggs — the former very dear, and most of the 
latter bad. 

25 th .—Left Sechele and had a long trek, leaving 
the main road in order to obtain water, through 
gardens most of the way, the Kaffir women having 
done an immensity of work. 

26^.—Came on to a place called Kapong, where 
we await the arrival of Sechele, who is going with 



us on Monday afternoon. This is the last water we 
shall see for three days. The poor oxen and horses I 
pity sadly, as the former must trek three wagons 
day and night, and a great part of the road lies 
through heavy sand. The country here is very flat, 
through bush all the way, but sandy and heavy, and 
the sun very hot and game scarce. I have not fired 
a shot the last two days, but we are going to have a 
little target-shooting, to keep our hands in. I was 
amused at Sechele the other night coming to the 
wagon with his body-guard, carrying a drawn sword. 

21th [Sunday ).—Had a glorious thunderstorm, 
worth worlds to us, as we shall now probably get 
water on the road. We were all busy converting 
ostrich eggs and bullocks’ horns and bladders into 
water utensils. 

28 th .—Sechele came on horseback with sixty 
followers, bringing all sorts of things to the wagon 
on pack bulls and oxen. He had changed his mind 
and would go no farther; he and Swartz were bar¬ 
gaining all the afternoon for the wagon we had been 
taking such extra pains with for Mosilikatse. Sechele 
ultimately bought it for 800lbs. ivory, about 250/., as 
they must all be large bull teeth. Had some target¬ 
shooting in the afternoon, and Sechele said his heart 
was sore at being beaten ; he had a beautiful double- 
barreled rifle. I bought Luister (Listen) from Swartz, 
—a vicious horse, sore backed, thick fetlock joints, lots 
of splints, and a determined kicker—for two magnifi¬ 
cent teeth weighing 154lbs., and worth 50/. at least; 



the animal in any other part of the colony would be 
dear at 12/., but here he is worth the money, as thoroughly salted and won’t die, and a most 
enduring brute. He is used to being under saddle 
every day, and an unexceptionable horse at elephants. 
I think I shall lose no more now by sickness, as they 
show no signs as yet, and have all had the sickness 
below ; but Jack and Croppy are worth nothing, the 
former nearly blind and a bolter, the other purblind, 
deadly stupid, lame and stiff as a post. Sechele very 
anxious to sell me a horse for a gun, but he is a 
shuffling little weed and the risk is too great to run, 
as, if it came to the hearing of the Boers, they would 
probably confiscate some of my property, or inflict a 
heavy penalty. 

29 th .—Parted company with Sechele, he going 
back again. Sent Medcalfe two oxen, which almost 
got him into difficulties ; treked far on into the 
night, and made the oxen fast. 

3(M.—Inspanned very early, and made good play 
—highly favoured by the cool and cloudy weather— 
through this rightly-named thirst land. Got a little 
water for the horses in the afternoon, in a deep cleft 
in the rocks — a most unlikely place to look for it. 
The Kaffirs had previously been making holes, and 
drinking stuff as thick as mud. Every kind of 
utensil was put in use, and I thought bladders the 
very best, being so light to carry and holding a good 
quantity. The road uncommonly heavy deep sand, 
bushy country all the way, camel thorns principally, 



with large open patches. I got a long shot at an 
ostrich, but he was going like the wind. Treked 
far on into the night, and made the oxen fast, as 
their throats were too parched up to eat. 

October 1st— Got to some wells, called Batlanarmi, 
where we found a good supply of water in a deep 
hole. I enjoyed a good wash immensely this morning, 
as a damp cloth is all we have had for two days. 
Drew out the water in buckets for the horses, and 
then made a circular hole and poured away, having 
lots of hands, and passing the bucket from one to the 
other quickly, till we had about nine inches deep, and 
then brought the oxen six a time to drink, Kleinboy 
sitting on his hams with a sjambok to prevent them 
from trampling it all into mud ; by this means they 
all got a tolerable supply. The ladder by which we 
descended to the well was a tall camel thorn-tree 
with the branches lopped off, leaving about two feet 
to stand on. The Masaras stood on it, and we passed 
the zinc bucket from hand to hand. 

When the sun had gone down a little, inspanned 
again ; Swartz, John, Kleinboy, and myself, going on 
horseback for a giraffe. We soon saw seven going 
away leisurely, and cantered after them, trying to 
bring them near the wagons. I kept in the rear, 
with old Bryan pulling hard, when, unfortunately, the 
curb broke and he shot ahead, and I was alongside a 
large cow in 300 yards. My gun missed fire, and I 
had great difficulty in putting on another cap, having 
very little command of my nag. As I. was again 



nearing the giraffe, he took me at full speed into the 
middle of a dense hack-thorn tree, which tore me 
to pieces and sent my gun hying over my head back¬ 
wards, and it was all that I could do to keep my seat. 
Bryan swerved and got through, and I soon turned 
him, dismounted, and rode back for my gun, picked 
it up, and kept on at a good round gallop in the direc¬ 
tion I saw my giraffe last, and was not long in catching 
sight of her. I had a very long gallop through thick 
thorns all the way, waiting in vain for an opening 
to put on the steam. I at length pushed Bryan close 
up, bring from the saddle, and giving the giraffe the 
ball in the stern, about three inches too low. The 
blood streamed in a torrent, but she kept on at a 
good pace, I contenting myself with just keeping her 
in sight, and she was going the right road while I re¬ 
loaded. I then galloped alongside, jumped-off a little 
ahead, and as she came broadside past me, shot her 
through the heart, and she fell dead in ten yards. 
I off-saddled and knee-haltered Bryan, and Kaffirs 
and dogs were up in five minutes, Bryan serving me 
a pretty trick by running away to the wagons. Tired 
and half dead from thirst as I was, I had to follow 
him on foot, and then lead him back a good two 
miles for the saddle and bridle; not in the best of 
humours with him, as I was very badly scratched. 
On returning, or rather following the wagon-spoor, 
which was ahead, I met a Kaffir, who told me that 
John had broken his arm, and on reaching the 
wagons found the news, alas ! too true. The account 



he gives of the accident is as follows: — On pulling 
up Luister short to jump off to shoot his giraffe, as 
his body was bent to dismount, Luister reared straight 
up in the air and then plunged and kicked violently, 
finishing by taking a bound to the left. John came 
off and heard the bone of his left fore arm crack like 
a cap. Luckily Swartz and Kleinboy were close at 
hand, and immediately pulled up and set his arm, 
and when I returned he was properly splintered and 
bandaged up, with his arm in a sling, and drinking a 
cup of coffee. Medcalfe made the splints with the 
back of a book and part of the lid of a tea-chest. 

2nd .—Inspanned early and treked far to a vley, 
the horses and dogs winding the water full a mile 
and a half off, and setting off briskly with their heads 
up in the air. Kvelt fell with Swartz, unfortunately 
breaking the stock of the double-barrel he bought 
from me. I had the Kaffirs at work at each 
of my legs to-day, and extracted forty-two thorns. 
I need hardly say I suffer great pain, as my 
hands festered, and ached, and throbbed to such 
a degree that I got no sleep, and I did not lessen the 
pain to-day by applying blue stone. The hack- 
thorns, or vaac um bechi—a most appropriate name 
given them by the Boers, signifying 4 wait a little,’— 
are the most fearful things to get through I ever 
came across. They have low square tops, strong 
and very dense, with short stubby sharp thorns, set 
on both ways, and no garment of any quality can 
stand against them, and the more desperate your 



struggles the faster you get; neither horse, dog, ox, 
Kaffir, nor Christian will knowingly face them a second 
time, except by using great care and caution. They 
are most virulent and poisonous in their nature. 
My right knee and elbow are perfectly still. 

A lot of Maccalacas Kaffirs came for water; they 
are poor wretches, called dogs by the Maccateese, and 
are not allowed to eat anything they kill but just 
the intestines ; they must take all the meat to Sechele. 
They had nothing to carry water in but ostrich eggs 
and the intestines of large animals tied fast at 
one end, and they scooped up the water in tortoise¬ 
shells ; they had the eggs slung to their backs in a 
skin or a kind of network, and each of them carried 
from twelve to eighteen. This place is called Lopepes 
vley. Ko spoor of any game coming to drink, and 
seeing ducks which took right away, I judge there 
must be another vley near at hand. 

3 rd. — About eight o’clock the Kaffirs that were 
herding the oxen came to say there were three 
black rhinoceros. We up-saddled and went in pur¬ 
suit, following the spoor not far, however, when we 
saw them, and they at once went straight off. I was 
about twenty yards in the rear, Swartz going at 
a smart gallop, Bryan star-gazing, and pulling hard, 
when down he came, a tremendous bang, right on 
the flint-stones, or rather rocks, breaking both knees 
and grazing his shoulder badly. Luckily, or rather 
unluckily, my gun entirely broke the force of my 
fall, and I was not hurt in the least, but the gun got 



an ugly bend, and a crack you might put a sixpence 
in half round the barrel, and about nine inches below 
the muzzle, and split the stock down the middle, and 
I was entirely thrown out. 

Swartz chased them far; jumped off and killed 
the cow and a large calf right and left, and they lay 
within 150 yards of one another. 

Inspanned in the afternoon, and I stopped behind 
to have a swim. Just before sunset I saw giraffes 
from the wagon, and Swartz and Kleinboy were 
soon in the saddle, and the former killed a fat cow, 
after a very long stern chase. It was full moon, and 
it was about an hour and a half high, when we saw 
a fire some three hundred yards from the road, and 
found Swartz and giraffes there. Outspanned for a 
few hours, and the Kaffirs put nearly the whole of 
the giraffes in the wagons, as we shall not get game 
again for three or four days, being now near 

4 th. — Inspanned about three o’clock, and got to 
a large vley of good water, called Sangarni, about 
eleven a.m. ; scorching hot; the wagons very, very 
heavy. I had to outspan one of my oxen, which 
had nearly pulled his eyes out. 

To give an idea of the stomachs of the Dutch wo¬ 
men, one proposed they should have a marrow-bone 
between them; the other objected, saying she could 
eat a whole one ! The proposer thought she could 
too, and forthwith they had the two largest broiled 
— nearly a yard long each, without exaggeration — 



and that without salt, or condiments of any kind 
whatever, and in the middle of a regular roasting 
hot day. The cow was very fat, and the bones full 
of marrow. 

The Kaffirs are happy dogs. One bushman Kaffir, 
after working two years for two heifers, took gladly 
our escort to his kraal. He left his heifers in charge 
of another Kaffir, while he went to a giraffe I had shot 
for meat, and, on returning, his heifers were gone. 
He followed the spoor far, and early next morning 
he saw lion-spoor also, on the track of his heifers. 
His hopes were faint, and a little farther he found 
their remains, and rejoined us the following day, 
and, laughing from mouth to ear, said, ‘ The lion had 
eaten them up; ’ and they do not appear to have 
cost him a second thought. 

I bent my gun straight again, made her fast to a 
tree, and fired her with a long string. I then put in 
nine drachms of fine powder, and fired her again in 
like manner : to my joy and surprise, I could see no 
enlargement whatever of the crack, and think I shall 
continue shooting with her, as she is my favourite 
gun. It is more than a crack : I could put a three¬ 
penny piece right through into the barrel, and cannot 
make up my mind whether it is dangerous or not 
to shoot with now. I fired four bullets from the 
shoulder at a target, and she appeared to shoot as 
well as ever. 

5 th. — Got early to Sicomo’s, a wild, queer place. 
The Kaffirs all live on the top of a high berg, having 



no access but up a gorge, between two stony moun¬ 
tains ; a dry watercourse, which, in any other coun¬ 
try, would be a roaring torrent. Sicomo was hunting, 
and we did not see him. Though there are several 
thousand Kaffirs living on the berg, a stranger 
passing through the country would think it unin¬ 
habited, but in the evenings and early mornings, on 
going to and from their work in the gardens, the 
whole pass is one continued line of people, and con¬ 
stant hum of voices. Traded a lot of feathers, two 
karosses, and about forty pounds of ivory; the 
Kaffirs much more civil than I expected to find 

Mi. — Parted company with Medcalfe, and treked 
away, he remaining behind. Though our course lies 
directly forward, it will take us about two days to 
round the precipitous rocky mountain. Outspanned 
at sunset, and got water in a dry watercourse, after 
scraping about three feet deep: cool and delicious, 
as we have had two burning days, with hot winds, 
which completely prostrated me. We had, however, 
lots of Kaffir beer, which is a little acid, and very 
refreshing. Stayed behind the wagons, to try and ex¬ 
change Jack for another horse, and, though I risked 
my neck in galloping him among the stones, as he is 
almost blind, I could not swap. 

8th .—Although I walked ahead of the wagons all 
day I saw nothing. Swartz wounded a quagga, and 
a few minutes after the shot I heard the dogs had 
something at bay, and on running a few hundred 



yards in .the direction, saw the Kaffirs squatting on 
their hams behind the trees. I thought it was a 
wounded buffalo, but I saw, to my surprise, an un¬ 
wounded cow giraffe. I gave Swartz a ball, and 
we fired together a running shot, both hitting her 
too high, but she stood again 200 yards ahead, and 
I being first loaded and first up, shot her through 
the heart, dead. 

9 th —Yesterday our direction lay right through a 
large mountain, and the path was horribly stony, and 
we had to cut our way with axes through a great 
part, but the weather was luckily cold, and I could 
not keep warm, walking hard, with two coats on. 
Saddled up early for a giraffe or eland, but it was so 
cold we had to off-saddle and light a fire, which I 
did with a cap, two stones, a bit of rag, and powder. 
We waited for the wagons, breakfasted, and again 
started, when we soon saw three lions ; gave chase to 
the lioness, and she ran hard through the bush a good 
distance, when she lay down. Donna, who is always 
in the way, went up and started her again, and, as she 
was nearing the thick bush, Swartz, fearful of losing 
her, jumped off, fired and missed her. I galloped on, 
and she came to bay, lying under a bush facing me 
twenty-five yards off. Swartz came up, and when 
reloaded, I fired from Bryan’s back, my arms aching 
so with holding my horse that I missed also. With 
a fierce growl she changed her position to a big bush, 
some twelve yards off. When I was reloaded, Swartz 
fired from his horse with better success, hitting her 



on the point of the shoulder and disabling her. She 
champed the branches of the tree in impotent rage 
and fury, and I went up and finished her off. She 
was a fine old lioness, very large and fat. We 
skinned her, and Swartz took the skin to the wagon. 
I took the skull, though, but for my infamous bad 
shot, I should have had the honour of killing her. 
I saw yesterday, for the first time, a harrisbuck, 
or potoquaine, but he was far off, and on the 
side of a most precipitous mountain. Hearing 
our wagons thundering down the dry stony ravine, 
he was taking himself majestically off, out of harm’s 
way. He appeared to me to be of a glossy jet 
black, and I ran hard to get a better look at him, 
but he had disappeared, or rather I got deeper and 
deeper into the kloof, and the bushes, trees, and 
rubbish intercepted my view. 

1(M. — Had an easy victory over an immense old 
giraffe bull. Hot having a measure, I am afraid to 
say what height he stood ; but from his fetlock to 
his knee, and from his knee to the point of the 
shoulder, were both over four feet. His tongue, 
which I slung to my belt above my hips, hung below 
my ankle. I saw him standing alone, and, knowing 
he would take up wind, kept 150 yards below; and, 
after an easy gallop of about a mile, he came directly 
across me, within 15 yards, at a tearing pace. Bryan, 
being on his best behaviour, pulled up short; and I 
gave him a bullet in the stern, about 100 yards off, 
which soon caused him to slacken his pace ; and the 



ground being good, after in vain trying to drive him 
towards the wagons, I finished him with another 
shot behind the shoulder. I have had my gun cut 
down by the Bastards. She is now ridiculously 
short—barely 18 inches-—but uncommonly handy on 
horseback, and she appears to shoot as well as before. 
I bagged 11 pigeons and 4 ducks with her in two 

11/A [Sunday ).— Kleinboy last night carelessly 
left out my saddle, which I had lent to Swartz. 
Though it was not two yards from the wagons, and 
there were lots of dogs and Kaffirs sleeping out, the 
wolves took it bodily away; and though we turned 
out the last man in search, as yet we have only found 
the girths, stirrups, and one buckle of a stirrup- 
leather, which we found a good half-mile from the 
wagons. This is most unfortunate, as no amount of 
money can replace the loss here. If I could only 
recover the old saddle-tree, I could patch it up 
somehow or other to answer the desired purpose ; 
but a good saddle in this country is quite indis¬ 
pensable, as the horses’ backs are very liable to get 
sore, notwithstanding all the care that can be taken. 

13/A.—■ Bound the cork out of the bottle, and the 
last drop of ink spilled, and had to continue my 
journal with a mixture of gunpowder and water. 

15/A.— No elephants yet. I saw this morning 
three beautiful harrisbucks, as I was strolling on in 
front of the wagons, unfortunately without my 



The days are cruelly hot. It is quite impossible 
to travel in the middle of the day ; both man and 
beast are quite prostrate. I shall hunt no more in 
the summer, as the exposure to the fierce heat, the 
burning sands, and the hot sultry winds, dries you 
up like an old mummy, takes all the sap out of your 
body, and adds about ten years to your appearance. 
We are eaten up with flies ; and the wagon affords 
but slight protection from the sun, which is so 
powerful, that a side of bacon, by no means fat, and 
protected by two thick canvas sails, melts away. 
My hands are still very sore from the hack-thorns, 
and I cannot get them well. Eode my new pur¬ 
chase, Luister, to-day, for the first time, but found 
nothing. John’s arm still pains him a good deal. 
He had a Kaffir doctoring him yesterday, cutting 
numerous small niches all over the arm, and rubbing 
in some preparation of leaves and roots ; but I place 
no faith whatever in his skill, and should be sorry to 
undergo the pain. 

18 th (Sunday ).— Three giraffes, three white rhi¬ 
noceros, one black ditto, and one eland bull, must be 
added to the list of slaughter -— three rhinoceros and 
one giraffe being my share of the spoil. I killed the 
black rhinoceros and the eland also ; but, not giving 
them the first ball, they do not count to me. We 
had a glorious hunt after a large troop of giraffes, 
Swartz, Kleinboy, and myself each singling out one, 
and each bringing to bay in a masterly manner. I 
rolled my cow over dead with one bullet; Kleinboy 



did the same about two miles ahead. Swartz could 
not go the pace, and fired 200 yards off, giving his 
giraffe a good shot, however, and making her what 
he calls 4 swack.’ It is a good plan, if you are sure 
of your shot; but at such a distance I cannot make 
good work. 

Yesterday Swartz and myself, being badly mounted, 
had a long chase after two white rhinoceros cows. 
I eventually finished them both, though they cost 
us nine bullets. On jumping off to fire, Jack ran 
away, and I had a long chase on foot ere I recovered 
him. Swartz’s nag, old Croppy, is dead lame on one 
foot, but a sjambok vigorously applied had a wonder¬ 
ful effect on him. Eode Luister in the afternoon, and 
shot a very large bull, with a fine horn, breaking his 
shoulder the second shot, as he came swinging broad¬ 
side past me, not more than 20 yards off. I shot 
well yesterday, hitting nine running shots with ball, 
from 50 to 70 yards off, all good shots. Killed 
some Namaqua partridges and two different kinds of 
bush partridge, totally different from any I ever before 
saw, the plumage underneath resembling a grouse, 
with very handsome bills. I regret much my ina¬ 
bility to skin them properly. 

Our course lies nearly north, verging east and 
west for water ; and we have Masaras, who go ahead 
of the wagons, to point out the way from one vley 
to another. This is, without exception, the driest, 
flattest, most desolate-looking country I ever saw ; 
and the Masaras have burned the last blade of grass. 



There is so much sameness in the country, that I 
dare not leave the wagons in the bush, for fear of 
losing myself. We find one another by firing guns 
and lighting immense fires. It is anything but a 
comfortable feeling when you are lost, as you have 
not an idea where you are likely to get water, and 
the ground is so dry and baked with the sun that 
the wagons hardly leave any visible spoor. We all 
agreed that we would not willingly set foot in this 
land again. We are twenty in all at the wagons, 
black and white, including two women and their 
children. Bryan is sick, and two oxen also. Jack 
was lost last night, and we were debating whether 
the lions had taken him or not, when, to my great 
joy, the Tottie discovered him. The Kaffirs found 
ten ostrich eggs yesterday, which were very good. 
I breakfasted this morning on rhinoceros hump, 
baked in a hole in the ground, in the skin — tender, 
jiucy, fat, glutinous, and good. 

Wherever there is a little muddy spring, which 
takes half a day to fill a small hole, you will find 
some poor wretches of starving Masaras close in the 
neighbourhood; how they support life at all is a 
mystery to me, in this barren, worthless desert. The 
Masaras have no cattle or gardens ; indeed, I don’t 
suppose anything would grow. Half a dozen stunted 
goats, and a few curs that can hardly hold together 
from famine, constitute their all. 

22nd .— No elephants yet, and the Kaffirs will not 
tell us where they are ; I think they are afraid of 



Mosilikatse. Swartz and myself have killed four 
buffaloes, two rhinoceros, and one eland, wishing to 
lay in a good stock of dry meat before we come to 
elephants. We must shoot no more then, for fear 
of frightening them, as there is no knowing, when 
once alarmed, when they will stop again. There is 
no waste in the great quantity of meat we have killed, 
as the poor Masaras light great fires by each animal, 
and eat and dry the last morsel. A whole batch of 
them moved their quarters to the three rhinoceros I 
shot, which all lay pretty near together. The rest 
of the party are asleep as I sit scribbling. We out- 
span to let the oxen and horses feed and drink, before 
we go to bed, which we always do as soon as it is 
dark, for we must be up by the morning star, and 
have a cup of coffee and a biscuit before we trek. 
The Kaffirs make a kraal for the oxen every night, 
as we are afraid of lions. 

Yesterday morning we saw a large troop of nearly 
200 buffaloes. We lost no time in saddling up 
Luister and Ludovick, each bent upon shooting a fat 
cow. Old Wolf got them wind ; and being the most 
disobedient cur in the world, there was nothing for 
it but to go after him, and we had a grand hunt, 
the buffaloes tearing along through and over every¬ 
thing, causing stones and branches to fly in every 
direction, their heavy gallop making the very earth 
shake. I was above the wind, and got no dust; 
Swartz being below, was half blinded. One old 
bull chased Swartz away from the troop. I rode to 



the head of them, and could not make up my mind 
which to fire at, as they were so intermixed. At 
length I saw a round shining dumpy short cow, 
apparently very fat, and was determined to have, 
her, and pushed Luister close alongside. She could 
not get into the herd, they were so wedged together. 
I fired from the saddle within two yards of her, giving 
Luister at the same time a chuck on the off rein, and 
a savage dig with the near persuader, to prevent his 
being run over by those behind. She kept on with 
the herd ; and I, not being able to load at the gallop, 
the bush being too thick, unpardonably lost sight of 
her. I heard Smouse and Wolf barking at one, and 
on galloping in the direction, saw they had succeeded 
in turning out an old cow, and were baiting her in 
good style. I galloped to their assistance, and after 
a short chase, getting close to her stern, jumped off 
just as she went into the bed of a dry river —the 
Sassy — and shot her dead right through the heart, 
and out just behind the shoulder on the other side, 
as she was ascending the opposite bank. On return¬ 
ing in the direction where I last heard the firing, 
I found Swartz and the Kaffirs exulting over a cow 
and young heifer, which they had murdered among 
them in about twelve shots, as all hands at the wagon 
had a round at them. I said I had lost a fine cow, 
which I was sure could not go far, and must go and 
look for her, and, singularly, I found her lying dead 
not 100 yards from the other two, shot right through 
the heart. We loaded up an immense quantity of 



beef, as she was, as I thought, in prime order. The 
Kaffirs take the paunch, and after being well scraped, 
cleaned, and greased of course, they wear it as a 
handkerchief round their heads. 

23 rd .— Ascended a high mountain this morning, 
and had a capital view of the surrounding country— 
one immense wooded flat as far as the eye can dis¬ 
cern in every direction, with mountains thinly inter¬ 
spersed all over, just like so many artificial grottoes 
on a gentleman’s pleasure-ground. They are round 
stony hills for the most part, wooded to the summit, 
and of every conceivable shape and size, decidedly 
pretty; but there is no water, and the country bears 
such a parched appearance the very sight makes your 
tongue cleave to the roof of your mouth. We had 
been looking forward for several days to the delight¬ 
ful baths we should have on reaching the Sassy, but 
we found it completely dried up, and had to get 
spades to work to dig a large hole in the sand in the 
middle of the bed of the river, when (as is always 
the case) cool water immediately rose, but only in 
small quantities, barely enough for oxen and horses. 
We are now only, I am told, two days from Mosi- 
likatse’s kraals; and I hear from the Kaffirs that 
the Rev. Robert Moffat, from Kuruman, is there—a 
clever, intelligent man, and better acquainted with 
the Kaffirs than any man in Africa. The sun here 
is most oppressive, and there is frequently no air 
stirring at night; but we have no mosquitoes. 

The Maccateese have almost frightened my two 




Kaffirs to death, by telling them Mosilikatse will 
most certainly kill them both, as they are Zulus, and 
spies of Panda’s; and I cannot convince them to the 

As near as I can judge of our whereabouts, we are 
about twelve days from the coast — say 250 miles, 
more or less — and in about the same degree of lati¬ 
tude as Inhambane, a Portuguese settlement between 
Helagoa Bay and Sofala. This is what I glean from 
the Kaffirs; but I may be considerably out of my 
reckoning. The Bushmen Kaffirs say there are no 
elephants at all in this locality; they have just 
returned from a two days’ search, and saw no fresh 
spoors at all; but they cannot be believed — that is 
one comfort. 

I will never again come with Boers ; they are 
hardly one remove from the Kaffirs, have no inform¬ 
ation whatever on any subject but wagons and oxen, 
never read a book of any sort or description in their 
lives, are perfectly ignorant of what every child 
in England knows, and ask the most ridiculous ques¬ 
tions,—spending their spare time in drinking coffee 
and smoking. How they get through life is a mys¬ 
tery. You can learn nothing whatever from them. 
Long yarns of their hunting exploits, repeated till 
you know them by heart, are all you get from them. 
They are very superstitious, too; nearly as much so 
as Hottentots. There is one of the latter now by 
the wagon — a dirty little brute, who, when I ex¬ 
postulated with him on never washing, said he would 


3 95 

wait till lie got back to the house, where he knew the 
water had no snakes, blind worms, or crocodiles. 
The Boers are nearly as bad; they excused them¬ 
selves for not swimming in the river by saying that 
a man had once been killed by a crocodile. 

2hth [Sunday ).—We are outspanned at length by 
some beautiful water, and are awaiting the arrival of 
some of Mosilikatse’s people, as messengers were sent 
three days ago, saying we were here. We left a 
Maccateese kraal yesterday, very much against the 
wish of the captain, who would send no one with us 
to show the road, and endeavoured to deter us by 
saying we should find no water, no elephants, and 
the Blood Kaffirs, or Carl (naked) Kaffirs, Mosilikatse’s 
people, would certainly turn us back. They told us 
all manner of lies, and contradicted themselves over 
and over again, by which means we found them out. 
The Maccateese are called likewise Bechuanas, Bequi- 
nas, and Basutos. 

I may mention at once that we were kept two 
months by this river, as Mosilikatse got it into his 
sagacious head that we were spies ; and a large 
commando was following us, and detained us to see if 
such was the case, while he sent scouring parties all 
round his dominions. One party came across some 
Saltpansberg Boers hunters north of Limpopo, in 
Mosilikatse’s country, without his permission, who, 
immediately on perceiving the Matabele, altered their 
course south-west again, though previously they were 
coming north-east. On this being reported at head- 



quarters, we had messages, and a letter from Mr. 
Moffat, enquiring if we knew them. This made 
Mosilikatse still more suspicious; as white men were 
coming into his country from two different sides, he 
thought it was a plot, and quite expected to be 
attacked, in which case he comforted himself with 
the assurance that lie would make sure of us in the 
first place, and we should pay the penalty of spies 
and traitors. 

As we were enjoying a swim yesterday near 
sunset, we heard a double shot from the wagon, and 
immediately a black rhinoceros cow came tearing 
past us, baited by all the dogs, who soon brought 
her to bay, when nine shots were fired by six men, 
who all. according to their own statement, hit her 
behind the shoulder ; but when she yielded up the 



ghost, only four bullets were to be found in her, and 
one of those behind, in the stern. She gave old 
Smouse a tremendous toss. He cannot weigh less 
than lOOlbs., and I thought every bone in his body 
must be broken; but he is no worse. He looked 
uncommonly sheepish, however, after his fall, and 
was only a spectator, declining to renew the combat. 

29th .— I shot my first tsessebe on Tuesday, and 
last night had the extreme satisfaction of killing my 

first harrisbuck. He is a truly noble animal. I have 
preserved the head and skin to the best of my power, 
having nothing but salt to cure it with, and the long- 
looked-for rain coming on ere it was properly dry. 
It was sundown when I shot him, and far from the 
wagons ; but I was determined to skin him, and 
John lent a good hand. So we soon had him well 



packed on Croppy, and rode back for the wagons, 
luckily having a little moon and the dry bed of a 
river to guide us by. John first saw them — four 
bulls, in company with a lot of quaggas. He beck¬ 
oned to me, and we gave chase. I rode hard, and 
wide of them, John directly in their wake; and as 
they stopped to look back at him, I jumped off. He 
fired and missed ; and as they bounded from his shot 
I hit the last through the hind quarters, and dropped 
him, to my intense joy. We had a capital lunch 
from some wild fruit, about three times the size of 
an orange, called a clapper. It has a hard shell out¬ 
side, which you must batter against a tree to crack 
or break. 

I find that we are considerably farther north 
than I thought—somewhere about the same latitude 
as Sofala, I think — but can gain no information 
from the Kaffirs, who won’t say how far it is from 
the sea or the Portuguese settlement, or give us 
any information at all, either through fear or ig¬ 
norance. We are all in good health, only a little 
impatient to see elephants. 

Nov. 1st [Sunday ).—I have just ‘boned’ part of an 
old quill I saw in a Kaffir’s ear for ornament. I am 
writing my journal with vinegar and gunpowder, but 
it is poor stuff. 

We are anxiously waiting the return of the mes¬ 
sengers sent to Mosilikatse, and are at present kept 
in a kind of quarantine. A son of Impugan (fly), 
Mosilikatse’s chief captain, with some twenty follow- 



ers, is at the wagons, and we may go no farther till 
we get leave from head-quarters. We have had 
some thunder storms, which have been of vast benefit 
to the country. Game very scarce. On Friday I 
shot a tsessebe, and yesterday mounted on Luister, 
who has had no work for a long time, and is fat and 
fresh. I again fell in with a single roan antelope, 
and cannot deny myself the pleasure of giving a full 
account of the chase from first to last, as it will long 
live in my remembrance. 

I saw him first coming along at a swinging gallop, 
evidently startled by something, and endeavoured to 
cut him off, galloping hard and keeping a tree 
between us. I got within 100 yards, jumped off, and 
missed him like a man going broadside past me ; 
swallowed my disgust as well as I could, reloaded, 
and gave chase. A stern chase is always a long 
one, and at the end of about three miles I could not 
perceive I had gained a yard on him. The bush 
getting thicker, I rode 100 yards wide of him, hoping 
I might gain ground on him unperceived, and as he 
burst once more into the open I had bettered my 
position fully 100 yards, which he perceived and 
put on the steam once more, and I was just pulling 
up in despair when I saw his mouth open and heard 
his breath coming thick and fast on the wind. He 
was evidently much blown, but my good nag had 
likewise nearly all the puff taken out of him. The 
ground being frightfully stony, he had to change his 
legs, alter his stride, and hop about like peas on a 



platter; still I had faint hopes, if I was favoured by 
the ground, I might get a long shot at him. I nursed 
my nag to the best of my judgment, rowelling him 
well, but holding him fast by the head, and endea¬ 
vouring still to keep a spurt in him whenever the 
ground favoured; and in this manner I maintained 
my distance, about 200 yards behind the antelope, 
which I now perceived to be shortening his stroke as 
he was nearing the steep bank of a dry river. Now 
or never! I lifted and shook Luister for my life, 
and he put on a capital spurt, and, as he is an ad¬ 
mirably-trained shooting horse, I could rely on his 
pulling up in ten yards, and I never checked him till 
within twenty yards of the bank. The magnificent 
old buck seemed to know, by instinct, that this was 
the crisis of his fate, and tore away on the opposite 
bank harder than ever, making the stones clatter and 
fiy behind him. In the twinkling of an eye I stood 
alongside my nag, steadied myself, gave one deep- 
drawn breath, planted my left foot firmly in front, 
raised my gun, and fired the moment I got the ivory 
sight to bear upon him, making an admirable shot 
right through the top of his tail, breaking his 
spine and piercing the lungs, killing him dead 120 
yards off. I skinned him with care, bringing the 
skin to the wagon, head and all complete, which I 
hope some day to see at Ley land Vicarage. I never 
suffered more than I did in skinning him with a 
dull knife, in a burning sun, amidst thousands of 
black ants; and his skin was tough as shoe leather. 



I have now only two or three more varieties to kill, 
to have shot every buck I know in Africa. 

5 th .—Had a glorious day on Jack. He carried me 
well up to a troop of roan antelopes, when my gun, 
unfortunately, missed fire. Saw a splendid old bull 
harrisbuck, but lost sight of him in trying to get 
below the wind, and never saw him again. Eode 
far, climbing to the top of the hills; at length, saw 
about twenty-two harrisbucks ; got below the wind 
and within 300 yards, when they took the alarm. 
I had a very long chase of five miles, at least. The 
ground being so bad, and my horse blind, I could 
only go steadily; at length, got them at advantage, 
and put Jack’s powers to the test. He galloped strong 
and well, and as they were thundering down a pass 
between two mountains, through a dry ravine, I got 
within three lengths of the hindmost buck. The 
pace was tremendous. One magnificent old bull I 
had set my heart on, and was close to him. Jack 
drew up short just on the brink of the ravine, and, 
in my hurry to jump off, I got my foot fast in the 
stirrup. I had my back to the bucks, and when I 
had extricated my foot I had lost my bull. I fired 
at a large black-and-tan cow, and either missed her 
altogether or gave her a bad shot. In the middle 
of the chase I almost jumped into an ostrich nest, 
but I could not think about eggs then. On return¬ 
ing to the wagons, I heard Bryan was very sick; he 
had treked away from the wagons, and we lost him, 
though I followed the spoor till dark. I luckily 



heard from two Kaffirs that they had seen a horse’s 
spoor, on the path going back, at the first break of 
day. Inyous and myself started in the direction the 
Kaffirs told us, and, thinking it not improbable we 
might be away three or four days, I put a cap, box 
of salt, and a dry eland’s tongue in my pocket, and 
Inyous carried two pounds of beads. On finding 
the spoor eighteen hours gone, I pressed two Kaffirs 
from a kraal near by into the service. It was fine 
work, at times, tracking him out. We had many 
checks, and ail spread out and made our casts in a 
most systematic style, your humble servant hitting 
off the spoor three times, but Inyous and one Bush¬ 
man Kaffir did the most of the hunting. Once, I 
had all but given him up, on flinty, rocky ground; 
we cast around in every direction for an hour and 
a-half to no purpose, and we followed the spoor for 
more than 300 yards on our hands and knees, the 
faintest imaginable track being all we had to guide 
us—a small stone displaced, or a blade of grass cut 
off; so we kept on till we again got to sandy 
ground, when we took up the running four miles an 
hour, and about mid-day we found him. I need not 
say how rejoiced I was to see him again. 

I must say that to-day’s work beat anything I ever 
saw with Kaffirs. Bloodhounds could not have 
done better. We followed the trail for six hours 
through old grass a yard high, and through the midst 
of lots of quagga spoor. I once called the Kaffirs to 
a quagga spoor, but they recognised it immediately, 


and made me ashamed of myself. They took 
quantities of snuff, as being good for the eyes and 
clearing the intellects. I tried it, and verily beheve 
I benefited by it. We had messengers to-day from 
Impugan, bringing capital beer, and all wearing 
white feathers in their hair, a sign that they are 
friendly to us and bring us good news. We expect 
positively messengers from Mosilikatse to-morrow. 
We sent him many presents, mine consisting of a 
large, handsome, double, very bright scarlet blanket, 
beads of different varieties, and an immense German 
boar-hound, very handsome, shaggy and rough, 
called Smouse, who, however, bit the Kaffirs, got 
away, and was never more heard of, unfortunately, as 
I think Mosilikatse would have accepted and appre¬ 
ciated him. All the rest of the presents, however, 
he sent back with the message, 4 What was he to do 
with them P — they were not things he could eat, he 
was not a woman to adorn himself with ornaments, 
and he would not allow any of his tribe to wear a 
blanket; they were of no manner of use to defend 
himself and his people against their enemies, and we 
must take them back and send him a horse, guns, 
and ammunition.’ 

We were kept all the time, however, well supplied 
with beer, and had several presents of sheep, goats, 
and oxen for slaughter; and at last all our doubts 
were set at rest by a present of a snow-white 
heifer, which was meant to show that his heart was 
white towards us and we had nothing to fear. Had 



it been a red one, John told me, who thoroughly 
understands the language and customs of the Ma- 
tabele, all our Kaffirs would have fled, as that colour 
is symbolical of blood. 

6th .—Poor Jack is dead. I don’t know when I 
was so sorry for anything; he knew my voice and 
used to obey me like a dog, and would come to me 
when I called him. He was only sick about twelve 
hours, so quick in its effects is the fatal horse sickness. 

1th .—Moved our quarters to a cooler place under 
a huge rock, with some shady trees about; hunted all 
day, found a herd of blue wildebeests, and rushed 
down upon them savagely, having had no flesh for 
three days. We gave them four bullets instantly, 
every one telling, and, when the dust cleared away, 
one was down and two others wounded, which John 
and Swartz finished. I rode hard after the troop 
and made a good shot at the last, breaking his back 
200 yards off, thus bagging four in less than as 
many minutes. I killed a tsessebe, also going at 
his utmost speed, 216 measured yards off, and made 
an execrable shot at a roan antelope. I saw a re¬ 
markable goose on my way back to the wagons; had a 
cup of tea, fired off the bullet, put in a charge of shot, 
and went in pursuit of my goose, which I bagged. 

We had to send messengers again to Mosilikatse, 
and shall be detained another six or seven days. I 
sadly feel the want of books, as I have nothing in the 
world to do, and the days are by far too hot and 
enervating to do work of any kind. 



8 th [Sunday).--Vet and John fishing; they take 
admirably, but we have only crooked pins for hooks, 
and cannot catch many. What we do manage are 
sweet and good, and a treat to us. 

Collins’s arrival from Mosilikatse gave new life 
to us all, and at length I have been able to get at 
something approaching the truth relative to Mosili- 
katse’s whereabouts. Collins thinks it about 140 
miles from this, ENE., nearly the same latitude as 
Sofala, about twelve days on foot from the coast, 
and about five days from the Zambesi, a large river, 
navigable for nearly 200 miles. Its mouth is near 
Quillemaine. Mosilikatse had treated Collins well 
in every respect, and he was in high spirits, and 
talked largely of what he would do. 

Swartz, always alive to his own interests, offered 
him the use of Kleinboy to shoot on halves. I prof¬ 
fered John or myself, but he wanted no assistance to 
fill his wagon in a fortnight with the finest ivory the 
country could produce; eventually, he took John 
Joubert, who was a capital interpreter. He had 
talked over Mosilikatse by some means or other, 
and eventually got for himself the much-desired leave 
to hunt. He was attended by twenty Kaffirs, and in 
the sole charge of one of his principal chief’s sons, 
invested with full authority to procure for him what¬ 
ever he required in the shape of meat or drink, food 
and corn for his horses, &c., which were carried with 
him wherever he went, and, for the time, he was all 
powerful, and left us poor fellows envying him 



bitterly. No man ever took the field under more 
inviting auspices. 

The whole sport of this mighty hunter was one 
bull, the hind leg of which he broke by a fluke in 
about ten shots, fired from behind, about 150 yards 
off, and eventually brought to bay. The Kaffirs’ ac¬ 
counts, which are always to be most implicitly relied 
on, were most humorous. The first elephant showed 
fight, trumpeted, charged, screamed, and chased him out 
of the bush, and gave him altogether a caution and a 
lesson to have more respect for the patriarchs of the 
forest. He set down his discomfiture entirely to his 
horse’s bad behaviour, and next day tried his other, 
which was equally bad; at all events, the same result 
ensued, and the following day he was fain to take him¬ 
self out of the hunting-ground altogether, thus verify¬ 
ing Mosilikatse’s prophecy, that he would show him a 
veldt that he would guarantee he would be quite as 
anxious to get out of as he was now to go in. 

I have heard from the natives that on the Guia 
(Tobacco) river, north of Mosilikatse and near the 
Zambesi, it is not safe to cross the veldt day or 
night, from the number of elephants, many of which 
are very savage, and keep the country all to them¬ 

9 th .—Shot a large eland bull on Luister, and lost 
myself at night, an ostrich having taken me out of 
my line of country. I suffered very much from 
thirst, not being able to obtain one drop of water for 
more than eighteen hours, though I scraped my finger 



nails off in making large holes in the dry spruits, 
but not one drop came. I had little or no sleep, and 
my tongue was so dry and swollen that I positively 
could not speak. 

10th .—At the first dawn of day I went again in 
search of water, and soon found some muddy, putrid 
stuff, which, however, was nectar to me ; saddled up 
and rode back in the direction I came last night, 
climbing all the hills until, at last, I recognised one, 
when I off-saddled my weary jade, and got back to 
the wagons about mid-day. They had fired innu¬ 
merable shots and lighted large fires on the tops of 
the bergs, but I had gone very far astray. 

Bought a horse (Veicliman), a dark chestnut, for 
six oxen, but he is at present a mere apology of a 
nag, being skin and bone, sore backed, and his hoofs 
worn completely through. As all our horses are 
unshod, I made him shoes of eland hide of a novel 
fashion, being laced tightly round his fetlocks with 
raw hide to keep them on ; they saved his poor hoofs 
immensely on the stony ground, and had the desired 
effect, for he soon got well again. I need hardly 
say, however, that I never ventured to hunt him 
with his mufflers on. His former owner ought deci¬ 
dedly to have been tried under Martin’s Act; but 
Collins said there was not a blade of grass for six 
days, consequently he was obliged to press on. 
Bryan has been almost dead for three days, and is’ a 
perfect shadow. These are the two animals on which 
I must face a savage old wounded bull elephant. 



11th .—Collins left us this morning, and John got 
leave from old Impugan to go with him just at the 
last moment. His preparations were soon made, and 
he took Croppy and Luister; both animals in pretty 
fair order. I promised him those two nags long 
since, when I was comparatively rich in horse-flesh, 
and would not break my word, though it put me to 
great straits to part with them. I get one half of all 
he kills. 

Sent away four 4 Blackwood’s Magazines,’ which I 
almost knew by heart, and begged something in the 
shape of print in exchange from two Englishmen at 
Collins’s wagon. I am wearied to death ; I have no 
horse to ride, and game is not come-at-able on foot, 
even if one could muster sufficient resolution to un¬ 
dergo the burning heat of the sun. When the sun 
is nearly set, I bend my steps to a hole about half-a- 
mile off, and splash about and make the best of three 
feet water, but there are so many fish, crabs, and 
leeches, one cannot keep still a minute. 

12th .—Had a long, hot, weary walk; saw literally 
nothing. We shall be compelled to kill an ox to¬ 
night, but it is the first since we left the house, two 
months ago. I am doing all I can to get a little 
flesh on my two bare-boned nags, and stuffing them 
with Kaffir corn, as the grass is so dry and so 
scarce they cannot get half enough, although, at this 
season of the year, it is knee deep in Natal. I have 
travelled far and wide in every direction into the old 
colony, up the coast to Belagoa Bay, through the 



Free State and the Transvaal Republic, but Natal is 
the garden of South Africa, Merico country a good 

Whilst living alone at the Inanda, to kill time, I 
used to hunt baboons with some powerful deerhounds. 
Great numbers of these baboons lived on an over¬ 
hanging crantz, and came some distance from their 
stronghold early in the morning to the Kaffir mealie 
gardens. Often I have seen a young one run into 
by Hopeful or Crafty, when the old males have 

instantly come to the rescue, beaten off the dogs and 
carried the young one off in safety, barking savagely. 
One day a tremendous fellow marched past the house. 
I immediately looed the dogs on, and had a good chase 
for a couple of miles ; being hard pressed, he endea¬ 
voured to climb a tree, when the dogs hauled him 




down ; he got his back to the tree, fought manfully, 
keeping all at bay until I got up, when they rushed 
in and worried him, some of them getting tremen¬ 
dous bites in the encounter. 

One day, when hartebeest-hunting at Bushman’s 
Kiver on horseback, I came on a panther in a valley, 
and he immediately crouched. I sent my companion 
for P., an old experienced hunter, whilst I kept 
watch, as we were both quite green at this kind of 
game. On going towards him with all the dogs, he 
jumped up in full view of the pack, with 150 yards 
start, over a bare country, and we had a splendid 
run at a great pace. On the dogs almost reaching 
him he turned the tables on them with a vengeance, 
charging them with such right good will as to scatter 
them to the winds. They returned, however, to the 
pursuit, and eventually brought him to bay among 
some rocks half way up, where he got his back 
against an overhanging one, and kept all the pack at 
a respectable distance. 

The pace had been too good for P., or the swamps, 
bogs, and holes not to his liking, as he was some time 
in coming up. He did so, however, at last, and, after 
giving me some good advice as to what I must do 
in case of a charge, we dismounted and advanced to¬ 
gether to the foot, when, dropping on one knee, P. 
fired, striking him in the centre of the chest and kill¬ 
ing him on the spot. The dogs rushed in manfully 
then, and we skinned him very carefully, I thinking 
all the time what care he was taking of it for me, 



and being so much obliged. After reaching the 
wagon, he cured and preserved it beautifully, and 
my gratitude knew no bounds ; but eventually, when 
he left it in the charge of a friend of his to take parti¬ 
cular care of for him , I began to feel a little uncom¬ 
fortable and uneasy as to its future destination, and 
said, ‘Do you consider that skin yoursP’ ‘Why, 
what can you possibly have to do with it P You did 
not even shoot' I need hardly say that this happened 
on my first introduction to the colony, before I had 
got initiated; for, according to all the rules of the 
chase, I ought to have had the first shot, when, if I 
had missed, he then might have laid claim to him. 

Hottentots are fond of dealing in the marvellous. 
Kleinboy and Baffeta told me that they were once 
near the Great Lake, but fully half-a-mile from the 
water, and found a crocodile, twelve feet long, wedged 
fast into the fork of a tree, not quite dead, some 
nine feet from the ground. They accounted for it 
by saying the elephant had carried him and put him 
there, that they were constantly in the practice of 
plaguing and biting the legs and trunks of the ele¬ 
phants—when drinking and bathing, they go a long 
way into the lake for that purpose—and this was the 
way the sagacious animal had served him out. If 
the story is true (which I don’t myself doubt), I can 
see no other way of accounting for it. 

I was once witness to the effectual though cruel 
plan the Dutch have of teaching their dogs to face 
hyenas. They catch the hyenas alive in traps built 



of logs, having two entrances, with sliding trap doors, 
supported by a peg stuck loosely into the ground 
through a piece of meat in the middle of the floor of 
the house. A young kid is generally the attraction, 
railed off, so that the brute cannot get at him. 

On the occasion I speak of, two w T ere taken in one 
house together. On finding themselves imprisoned 
they made the most appalling row, and fought sa¬ 
vagely all night. One was shot; the other, after some 
dodging through the logs, was caught by the tail, 
his legs slit just above the hocks, and a strong iron 
chain passed through and hooked. He broke almost 
every tooth short off upon this chain, in his furious 
efforts to bite it through ; and when he had done 
this, the trap door was opened, and out he flew 
among some eight or ten powerful boar-hounds ready 
to receive him. A tremendous row and scuffle en¬ 
sued, and the poor brute, owing to his teeth being 
broken by his previous efforts to gnaw the chain, 
eventually succumbed. 

Hunting on foot once in the'Entumeni Bush, I 
had a very narrow escape from an old bull elephant 
which I had wounded. He gave chase, and I took 
up the hill; the ground was very wet and slippery— 
heaps of dead leaves, no heels to my veldt shoes, 
which were made of blesbuck skin, and, from being 
thoroughly saturated with wet, had stretched to 
nearly double the original size; consequently I went, 
as they say, two steps backwards to one forwards, was 
constantly down, and quite exhausted in the strenuous 



efforts I made to get on. Seeing no disposition, on 
my pursuer’s part, to give up the chase, I changed 
my tactics, got above a tree, on which I leaned a 
couple of seconds to recover my wind partly — a 
very critical moment, as the brute was not more 
than four of his own lengths from me—-jumped then 
some ten yards at right angles, and turned down the 

hill at full speed, the monster screaming and trum¬ 
peting in full career after me at a tremendous pace. 
He must have been over me in a few strides more, 
when I sprang to the right, and down he went in his 
mad career, crashing and carrying all before him, 
utterly unable to stop if he had wished, as the hill 



was very steep, and lie was under full sail: a tre¬ 
mendous relief to my mind, as it was my last resort. 
I did not hazard another encounter, but mentally 
resolved, for the future, to try another country, where 
I could have the all-powerful assistance of a good 
horse in emergencies of the like kind, and have carried 
out the resolution then and there made ever since. 

23rd .—I have been doing nothing the last ten 
days but wait impatiently the report from Mosili- 
katse, which has come at last, and we are just where 
we were, as far as hunting is concerned. 

Swartz has gone himself to see this imperious 
potentate ; but, as he did not send for him, I don’t 
think Mosilikatse will see him. Bryan is dead, and 
two more oxen. We got leave from old Impugan 
to move a few miles nearer the game ; but he is 
nearly as imperious as his master. Mosilikatse sent 
orders, that if he got guns and ammunition from us, 
then they were to bring me up to head-quarters ; 
and Swartz, thinking I was going, made me a very 
kind offer to this effect, that if I got hunting for 
him, then I should have Kvelt (strength), an old 
used-up brute, with a hammer head and Boman nose, 
for 200 lbs. ivory, 60/., as he was sorry for me, and 
wanted to help me. In case we had got leave from 
Mosilikatse, the horse would have been worth double 
the money, as he ought, in good hands, to have paid 
for himself in a couple of days, and I could have 
done nothing without him. 

I went out on Saturday, early before breakfast, 



with one of my Kaffirs and Donna. A tremendous 
thunderstorm came on, with torrents of cold drench¬ 
ing rain. I had on nothing but a very light pair of 
canvas 6 ducks ’ and a wretched thin shirt. I took no 
notice of the way we came, as I relied solely on my 
Kaffir; but when I told him to make haste back to 
the wagons, he was lost. We wandered about back¬ 
wards and forwards as hard as we could go, to 
keep the blood in circulation, till sunset, when, in 
trying to find an overhanging rock to sleep under, 
to give us some little protection, I luckily came on 
an old shed, which we at once set to work to 
thatch and make water-tight. After great difficulty, 
as everything was soaking wet, we succeeded in 
lighting a fire, and passed the night not so badly. 
The morning was dull and misty, and we could see 
no distance, and had no idea of our whereabouts. 
We walked hard and silently from one hill to an¬ 
other, climbing the tallest trees; and the Kaffir puzzled 
me to death by being sure the sun rose in the west. 
Of course he knew nothing about east or west, but 
he pointed in the latter direction. It is a dreadful 
country to be lost in, consisting chiefly of thick 
bush. After descending a mountain, you can see 
nothing ; and, unless you take great care, you cannot 
walk in the direction you intend, as you must twist 
and twine about to get through the bush. Then, 
if your thoughts wander for an instant, you will 
assuredly go wrong. At mid-day I lay under a rock 
to rest, when, in spite of myself, most unpleasant 



thoughts came crowding thick and fast upon me, as 
there are many instances of white men being totally 
lost in this endless, almost uninhabited land. If 
you stray into the thirst land, as there is great 
danger of doing, you will assuredly die of thirst, if 
not of famine. Though I had fasted full forty 
hours, I did not feel the slightest hunger. I tight¬ 
ened my belt, and drank lots of water. I could 
have shot game, but was chary of my bullets, 
keeping them most religiously, in case things came 
to the worst. 

My poor Kaffir’s fortitude quite gave way with the 
numerous disappointments. I never spoke a harsh 
word to him, though he took me in an exactly con¬ 
trary direction to what I believed to be right. He was 
very positive for a long time, and then his confidence 
entirely forsook him, and he sobbed as if his heart 
would break. At length we got on a Kaffir j ath, 
and very old tracks of cattle, and determined to con¬ 
tinue that as our only chance. To our intense joy 
we saw, before long, the fresh footprints of a Kaffir, 
and resolved to follow that to the world’s end, in 
faint hope that it might lead us to his kraal. My 
disappointment was great indeed, when we at length, 
about two hours before sunset, came to a large kraal, 
but found it uninhabited. We followed on, and next 
came to a pitfall, where there were evident signs of 
game lately being captured. I shall never forget the 
start of joy that Matakit gave when I said I saw 
cattle, and pointed to some black things in the dis- 



tance. He thought they were goats ; but when we 
came up they were only burnt stumps. Our coun¬ 
tenances fell; still we kept on rapidly and silently for 
about an hour, when suddenly Matakit said, 4 There’s 
a dog! ’ but, alas ! it was only a creature of his 
imagination. Still we had the footprints to go by, 
traceable enough after the heavy rain. At last his 
quick ear caught the sound of a voice, and this 
time he was not mistaken, and we soon came to a 
large Maccateese kraal, but so hidden among the 
rocks that you might easily pass without seeing a 
human being; and the glimpse I got of a little 
child gave me, I don’t scruple to say, the greatest 
delight I ever in my life experienced, as I had not 
heard the Kaffir’s call, and thought it only existed 
in poor Matakit’s brain. Matakit testified the most 
unfeigned delight, talking so fast and thick that the 
Kaffirs could not understand a word. We found 
that we were about four hours’ hard walking on 
foot from the wagons. 

It is, verily, the queerest place I ever saw in my 
life, just as Walter Scott describes Ben Venue ; and 
every overhanging klip or fissure in a rock gave 
shelter to a lot of goats. I was kindly treated by 
the Kaffirs, who gave me a hut, and brought me lots 
of green leaves to lie on, and gave me some boiled 
corn; and we got back to the wagons about mid¬ 
day. Impugan was exceedingly angry, and said 
I must always come to him in future, and he would 
send men with me. I got a good fright, and never 



felt hunger, though without anything but a little 
boiled corn for sixty-six hours ! 

No one living in crowded England can realise the 
almost endless extent of country ; all bush, without 
rivers, or anything to guide your eye but the 

Of course we did not find the wagons without a 
guide. I was the first white man most of these 
Kaffirs had ever seen, and they all came to gaze at 

me, and my beard of six months’ growth astonished 
them marvellously. They would not believe it was 
really growing there until they had pulled at it. 

I envied Donna; she kept on ranging, head up 
and tail going all the time, utterly unconscious 



of the fix we were in, and made her points, and 
appeared to enjoy herself marvellously, poor thing! 

2 6 th, — Swartz returned this morning. Just as I 
foretold, Mosilikatse would not see him, and sent 
messengers in great wrath to turn him back, take 
his horse and guns from him, and see him back to 
the wagons. This was some distance from his 
kraals. He., takes him for a spy from the Boers, 
coming in under false pretences, merely to see his 
country and strength. I am afraid Swartz has now 
lost the chance we might have had of obtaining 
hunting. We shall hear to-morrow, and I expect it 
will be a peremptory order to leave the country. I 
am regaling myself on most excellent Kaffir beer; 
it is really a treat. 

I got a note from John some nine days ago, 
saying he had lost all his bullets on the path, and 
wishing me to send him more. This morning the 
bullets were brought here by a Kaffir, who had 
picked them up two days from here. Their high 
sense of honesty is wonderful; for there is nothing, 
perhaps, that they more desire than powder and 
lead, and this find was a godsend; yet the Kaffir 
brought them back. There are some excellent 
traits in their character ; but, as they are perfect 
heathens, it is as much through fear as any better 

I have made a pair of shoes, mended others, and 
done my best to kill time, and have received four 
books in exchange for mine, but am very chary of 



them, reading only a little at a time, and then doiim 
something else to spin them out to the uttermost. 
Fresh elephant spoor was seen this morning. I 
went at once to see if Yeichman was fresh enough 
to follow, but his feet are quite worn through. 

December 1st. — I never was so tired in my life. 
Swartz has sold the wagons to Mosilikatse for twenty 
teeth; and we may wait here another ten days 
before they arrive. After that, he says he will give 
us permission to hunt, but it comes too late to be 
of any service to me, as my last horse is dead; and 
I hear to-day that John has gone back to the house 
with Viljoen, taking my two horses with him. If 
this is true, it will be the greatest 6 sell ’ that ever 
happened to any poor mortal in this world. I 
wrote and despatched a long yarn to Moffat three 
days ago, and I wished to send a messenger to John 
to-day; but, though I bribed Impugan with a very 
handsome sheep-skin kaross, he would not give me 
a Kaffir to show mine the way. 

3rd. — A great quantity of rain has fallen the 
last week, and I am quite tired of it. Heard to¬ 
day, positively, that John has gone back ten days 
ago. Never was poor mortal so miserably duped as 
I am. After coming seven months’ journey to 
hunt, now, when we at last get leave, I have no 
horse, though I gave 50/. for a brute not worth 15/., 
and this country is so open that it is almost impos¬ 
sible to kill elephants on foot; and so flat, too, and the 
trees so small, that a wounded elephant must catch you. 



7 th .—Tired as a dog of doing nothing; no word 
of the Kaffirs yet. I expect the heavy rains have 
swollen the river, and they are not able to cross. Were 
it not for a small volume of Byron’s poems, which I 
now know most of by heart, I could not kill the time. 

8th .—Played quoits with the washers of the wheels, 
and got through the time with the putting-stone, &c. 
The messengers and ivory for the wagon returned 
this afternoon, and, after no end of bargaining, the 
sale was concluded for twenty bull teeth, and seven 
more for seven oxen, about 1,300 lbs. altogether— 
a good sale. We must send another report to 
Mosilikatse, and then he will say positively if he 
will give us leave to hunt or not. I suppose he 
thinks we are all Jobs ; after detaining us two 
months he has completely humbugged us, and got all 
he wanted from us, as now the season is too late, the 
weather too hot, and the bush by far too thick to do 
any good. The wily old fox completely got the best 
of us ; his next message, if we had waited, would 
most probably have been that, now the corn was sown, 
no rain would fall as long as elephant-hunters were 
in his country—consequently, no harvest—and we 
must therefore go home; and possibly inviting us to 
come again the following year (only about three 
months’ journey), to receive the same treatment. 

9th .—Inspanned and left, to my great joy, having 
six Kaffirs in attendance to see us clear out of 
Mosilikatse’s country. Swartz killed a snake in 
the wagon over nine feet long — a mamba, the most 



venomous of all— and yesterday, walking with only 
a shirt and gaiters, I very nearly trod on one about 
twelve feet long; he escaped knobkerries and 
assegais, and beat four of us, and eventually gained 
a hole, into which he disappeared like magic. We 

hit him several times, but he was so flat to the ground 
we could not hurt him, but only made him savage. 
The wagon stuck fast, and we had to off-load. The 
dissel-boom was sprung, and the hind axle also, 
almost leaving us in a fix. We hope it will hold 
together till we get to the game, as here there is 
nothing, and we have nothing to eat; and the Kaffirs 
will not sell buck or sheep, as they want us to leave 
the country. 

18th .—We have been making good play towards 
home the last few days, having given up all hope of 




obtaining elephants. Yesterday the wagon broke 
down, and we are hard at work putting in a new 
axle; the wagon is so heavy that we must all walk, 
and it is downright hard work, from the first dawn 
of day till sunset, outspanning twice to let the oxen 
drink, and swallowing hastily some refreshment for 
the inner man. We saw a quantity of game yester¬ 
day, and killed four rhinoceros and two giraffes, and 
altogether had the finest sport since leaving the 
house. An immense herd of buffaloes, 100 at least, 
took away right in front of the giraffe I had driven 
out of the herd, and we soon passed them, as the 
pace was killing; the giraffe then turned to the left, 
and the whole troop were not more than fifty yards 
behind me, coming along at a tearing pace. I did 
not much like my position, as, in case of a fall, I 
should have been pounded to mince-meat by the 
dense mass; however, the speed at which we went 
soon left the buffaloes far behind, and I got my giraffe. 
Swartz, coming up on Luclovick, gave her a finisher, 
for my bullet was rather far back. I rolled over a 
large cow rhinoceros, going at her best speed in fine 
style, with one shot, breaking her back—a thing one 
can seldom accomplish. 

21 st .—We found a flaw in the wood, not, however, 
until the first axle was nearly complete, and had to 
seek another, and all our work to do over again. 
We had lots of rain, and I took a wrinkle out of 
Galton’s ‘Art of Travel,’ and made myself a tent, 
gipsey fashion, two blankets fastened together with 



wooden pegs thrown over. I cut drains all round, 
and slept warm and dry as a toast, though the rain 
was very heavy and of long continuance. Swartz 
shot three buffaloes out of one troop, though the 
ground was very heavy, and the buffaloes had a tre¬ 
mendous start. My horse Veichman has been for¬ 
tunate enough to get through the sickness, by plen¬ 
tiful bleeding, just in the nick of time, and careful 
treatment, having a stable made for him every wet 
night. However, he could not go the pace, and I 
did not like to push him in his present feeble condi¬ 
tion, so I had nothing to say to them. We have been 
varying our diet with guinea fowl, ostrich eggs, and 
sucking pigs — a pleasant change, this hot weather, 
from continual flesh meat. Our meal has run very 
short,* and we have bread only once in two or three 
days, as a treat. The roof of my mouth is quite 
sore with masticating so much tough flesh. 

Yesterday a troop of about seventy giraffes came 
swinging past the w r agons; the Kaffirs and dogs yelled 
loud, and there was a general rush for guns. They 
all turned short to the left and put on the steam. I 
was the only one that got my gun in time, but, ere I 
could get her out of the case, they were at least 400 
yards off. I fired at the head of the nearest cow, 
and we all heard the bullet clap loudly, but as we 
could see no alteration in her gait, we took no fur¬ 
ther notice, and the whole herd were lost in the 
bushes. About two hours before sunset, Hendrick, 
Sechele’s son-in-law, sang out, 6 Sur, sur, sur—surs a 



camel is dode.’ The Kaffir who was herding the 
oxen had found her about a mile off. We started 
immediately; she was a fine old cow, and very fat. 
I had shot her right through the jugular vein, and 
she had bled to death. The giraffes galloped right 
through the oxen, alarming the latter very much, 
and they all took away in different directions. We 
turned out in quest of them, and it was many hours 
ere we recovered them all. The ground being soft 
with the rain, we were able to follow the spoor. I 
cannot easily imagine a greater fix than to lose the 
oxen in this country. 

I expect the axle will be finished to-day. I am 
afraid to go out to hunt, for fear of losing myself. 
We have nothing whatever to guide the eye by— 
no hill, rock, stream, or mountain—all is one dense, 
wooded flat; the wagon-spoor is the only thing, and 
having twice lost myself, I have no wish to run a 
third risk. 

I will give the reader a description of old la, our 
Hottentot maid :—She is one of Pharaoh’s lean kine, 
unusually tall, straight as a kitchen poker; long, 
lean, scraggy neck; the smallest little pig eyes in the 
world; no nose, but two huge nostrils; high cheek 
bones, sunken cheeks, wide mouth, very thick lips, 
just the colour of the mulberry juice, low fore¬ 
head, and small head. I believe she has about the 
eighth of an inch long of wool on the latter, but, as 
it is always swathed in a handkerchief, I am not cer¬ 
tain. She is, I believe, somewhere between fifty and 




sixty, and you seldom see her without a short, black 
pipe in her mouth. She wears ear-rings, necklace, 
and armlets, and the gaudiest-coloured shawl and 
handkerchief. She is of a yellowish copper colour; 
her breast as flat as a deal board, and, altogether, 
about as plain, not to say downright ugly, as nature 
could possibly make her ; but, with all these perfec¬ 
tions, she has, in common with all her race, the most 
perfect, delicately-formed, and smallest hands and feet 
in the world. This description is not one whit over¬ 
drawn ; in fact, I have not done half justice to her 
eyes. I believe she can see as far as anyone, though 
I will defy anyone to tell what she sees with, as her 
eyes are only just discernible—not a sign of a brow or 
lash near them,—slightly bloodshot and watery from 
exposure to the fierce sun. She would quite charm 
the heart of a lady friend of mine at first sight, and 
she need not be under the least alarm of taking any 
number of such into her service. Though she had 
twice the number of growing lads, I would willingly 
go bail for the morality of all. 

24 th .—What we have gone through the last two 
days entirely beggars all description. On Tuesday 
night we found the vley, where we fully expected 
water, dried up, and not one drop to cool our parched 
mouths, though we had walked all day under a broil¬ 
ing sun. The Kaffirs had all their bladders and cala¬ 
bashes full of fat, which they prize greatly, and will 
drag along with them through every difficulty. In- 
spanned two hours before sunrise, not expecting 



to get water till afternoon. I took only a bit of dry 
toast, and had nothing on but a shirt and gaiters, 
a silk handkerchief inside my hat, a splendid 
pair of thick-ribbed woollen Highland socks, made 
by Haney herself, which I prize greatly—nothing 
could be finer for the burning sands—and a pair 
of shoes of my own make. I would guarantee 
three such days would convert the greatest lump of 
obesity into a genteel figure, if it did not kill him. 
The poor dogs I pitied most sincerely; one old 
stager, Wolf, never showed his nose from under¬ 
neath the wagon; the others showed their sagacity 
by galloping along some distance ahead, and throw¬ 
ing themselves down under a shady tree till we were 
far ahead, and then making play again. I did the 
same. About three o’clock in the afternoon Klein- 
boy could stand it no longer, and caught a horse, to 
go in search of water; Swartz, myself, and Sechele’s 
son-in-law doing the same. After riding three hours, 
at last we found the vley we were in search of, 
owing to the sagacity of Swartz, who showed great 
perseverance in following a rhinoceros spoor. There 
was not one drop of water in the vley, nothing but 
baked clay. On riding round I came on the fresh 
spoor of a Kaffir, and we followed it some 200 yards, 
when it brought us to a deep hole in the ground 
where he had drunk. There were about two inches 
of water in it; we drank, and then, with the spade we 
brought, enlarged and deepened the hole and fired 
signal-guns for the wagons, and, by the time the 



Kaffirs came straggling up, we had a sufficiency for 
their wants. Their eyes were starting out of their 
heads, and their look so wild as almost to frighten 
us, but there was not one drop for the poor oxen 
and horses ; it required all we could do to keep them 
from trampling the hole in; their throats were so dry 
that the oxen could not low nor the horses neigh, 
the loose oxen went half mad and joined a troop of 
wildebeests, and I lost one of mine altogether. On 
Thursday, luckily a cool day, we inspanned long 
before day-dawn, and got to a fountain about mid¬ 
day, when the poor things all got their fill. 

I was revolving in my mind on Monday what 
little reminder I could send 6 the General ,’ a nick¬ 
name for a brother of mine, when the thought 
struck me that his ingenuity might turn a couple 
of rhinoceros horns to good account, as they can 
be straightened by steam and turned in a lathe, 
and they take a brilliant polish ; snuff-boxes, knob- 
kerries, riding-canes, gun-stocks, &c., are made here 
from them. I soon put my thoughts into execution 
by ordering Veichman and a couple of slaves to 
attend me. The former is a nervous, timid, skittish 
chestnut, and has by no means the making of a good 
shooting horse, but it was Hobson’s choice with me. 
I found a young bull, a bad short-horn, and let him 
go, and shortly after two cows, the best of which I 
bagged in four shots. Veichman was in fear and 
trembling of the unwieldy brutes, but the spurs, 
vigorously applied, had the desired effect. The horns 



were not so good as I could wish, but the best that 
chance afforded me. 

Christmas Day .—What a contrast to the many 
merry ones spent in dear old England amongst my 
own family and friends ! The comparison makes me 
melancholy. Here I am in the deserts of South 
Africa, having been toiling from the first dawn of 
day under a broiling sun until sunset, and I am pretty 
considerably fagged. A bit of rhinoceros, cold, and 
so fat as to make the strongest stomach bilious, and 
a small portion of half-baked dough, have been our 
fare—not exactly our English notions of a Christmas 
feast; but these are among the hardships of a hunter’s 
life, and we have, at times, pleasures that abundantly 
compensate; and, to look upon it in the light of a 
philosopher, it is all for the best, for, had we the 
4 heavy wet’ and 4 feeds’ of England, we should be in 
but poor trim and wind for the toil of the chase. I 
must own, however, I should like to drink my 
friends’ health and 4 a happy Christmas’ in a good 
tankard of home-brewed, followed by a bottle of old 
port. Don’t mention a mince pie ; I have entirely 
forgotten the taste since I left home to wander 
amongst the denizens of the forest. I will, however, 
drink to the health of absent friends in a cup of 
coffee, the strongest beverage the wagon affords. 

We made all possible despatch from this place, 
travelling day and night, as the moon was at the 
full, and the sun did not quite bake us alive, snatch¬ 
ing two or three hours’ sleep when and wherever 



opportunity offered. Kleinboy lost himself once for 
half a night, and, on his return, made me roar with an 
account of his mishaps. Two jackals baited him all 
the time, endeavouring by their horrid cries to bring 
the lion to him, and he did nothing but run all the 
time at his best pace. He fell into holes and bushes 
over and over again, and he was so bruised and stiff 
as to be hardly able to walk. We got back to 
Swartz’s, without further mishap, about January 6, 
1858. After remaining there three or four days, I 
started for Maquazi with a cart and four oxen, and 
from thence I went to Bloemfontein, one of the 
principal towns of the Orange Biver Free State, with 
a troop of fifty-five oxen, all of which, with one 
exception, arrived there safely. 




1858 . 




I sold all my oxen well in Bloemfontein (flower 
fountain), and invested the proceeds in a wagon, 
stores, horses, and dogs, and, with great difficulty, 
powder, lead, tin, caps, and flints, having found two 
friends to stand security for me that I would not 
barter any part of these latter articles to Kaffirs. I 
eventually got a permit from the President, BoshofF, 
to convey it from the Government stores into the 
interior, and this had the effect of satisfying field-cor¬ 
nets and other officers until I crossed the Yaal Eiver, 
the boundary between Orange Eiver Free State and 
the Transvaal Eepublic. These states were, unfor¬ 
tunately, at war with each other. I had not left the 
boundary far behind me when I was asked by a 
field-cornet what I had in my wagon, and where my 
permit was. I showed him Boshoff’s with the most 
perfect confidence and innocence in the world, but it 
availed me little, for, as soon as the field-cornet had 
made it out, he spat upon it, trampled it under foot, 



and treated it with every indignity. I was then told 
I was a prisoner, and must be taken to Mooi River 
to Mynheer Pretorius the following morning; and I 
set off accordingly, on horseback, accompanied by 
three Roers; my wagon, oxen, horses, and servants 
remaining behind. We arrived the day following, 
about three o’clock, when I was taken to the cantour, 
and this charge of smuggling was brought against 
me. On my way I met a Natal friend of mine, and 
asked him to go with me to act as my interpreter, 
but the Sandrost (magistrate) ordered him out without 
hearing a word, and expended a great amount of 
breath in reading the laws to me in high Dutch, not 
one word of which I could comprehend. 

He gave me to understand that the charge was 
most serious; that there was no doubt I was in 
BoshofPs service, employed to smuggle this powder to 
the Kaffirs beyond, in order that they might make 
war on the Transvaal country from the other side ; 
that it was the greatest crime I could be guilty of, 
and that hanging was too good for me. 

Through the intercession of many friends I was at 
last released, and my wagon was sent for and brought 
up before the door of the cantour and thoroughly 
overhauled, and it ended in all my ammunition 
being confiscated to the Government, but I was 
allowed 20 lbs. of powder out of 150 lbs., and 100 
lbs. of lead out of 500 lbs., with caps and flints to 
match, with which I was forced to content myself 
and go on my journey. My three or four guns I 



was allowed to keep, a memorandum being taken 
of them. 

My old friend Franz Joubert, meaning to do me 
a friendly action, came out of Maquazi, two days’ 
distance on horseback, to tell the Sandrost he was 
quite certain I was the last man in the world to sell 
powder to the Kaffirs, and that when I had been 
staying with him previously I had refused posi¬ 
tively to let the Kaffirs have a grain at any price; 
but I let him have two sacks at cost price; and on 
producing witnesses to prove this, which ought to 
have gone far towards re-establishing my blemished 
character, the Sandrost immediately brought another 
charge against me of selling powder without a 
license, for which there was a heavy penalty. How¬ 
ever, after a couple of days, this charge was even¬ 
tually quashed, and I was allowed to proceed on my 
journey, after being detained about ten days, and 
taken a long way out of my road. 

I joined Swartz in Merico, and went with him to 
Letloche, about fourteen days’ trek, wdiere our 
routes separated, he trying Mosilikatse again, and I 
taking the route to the Great Lakes. 

Letloche.—April 17th .—I am now left entirely to my 
own devices in the deserts of South Africa, with three 
Kaffirs, two Hottentots, a driver and after rider, a 
wagon, eighteen oxen, a cow and calf, five horses and 
seven dogs, with guns, powder and lead, beads, 
wire, and supplies of tea, coffee, meal, &c., for a 



twelvemonth, at least; add to these a dozen of 
brandy and a cask of good Cape Madeira. I have 
not much to wish for that I know of, as there is a 
goodly supply of eland and giraffe bell-tong hang¬ 
ing up to dry. I am now twenty-one days from 
Swartz’s house, in Merico, and have thus far had 
far more company than was desirable; eleven wagons, 
including two of Sechele’s, which we parted company 
with three days ago, he going to Machin, a new 
Kaffir chief, who has succeeded Sicomo. The latter 
has had to retire, as he was not the rightful chief. 

It is a great change to find myself entirely alone 
after the row and racket of inspanning eleven wagons 
daily, but it is my own doing, and from my own 
choice. I hear to-day that Swartz must turn back 
immediately to Machin, or take the consequences; in 
case of refusal, he, his wife and children, are all to be 
killed then and there. This is the beginning of the 
new chief s reign ; he is talking very largely, and has 
succeeded in frightening my Hottentots pretty consi¬ 
derably, and they come to me with long faces to 
know what I will do. My answer is, c Inspan at 
once, and get through his country as quick as pos¬ 
sible.’ A full complement of elands and giraffes have 
fallen to our rifles, and a lion killed one of Sechele’s 
oxen one pitch dark night, and escaped unhurt. I 
saw a small troop of five elands from the wagon, 
and, I grieve to say, we killed them all; but, as some 
excuse for such wholesale butchery, I may say that 
with our own and Sechele’s retinue there were about 



150 Kaffirs to provide for, and not a particle was 

19^A.—I bought yesterday for beads about 600 lbs. 
of Kaffir corn, and the wagon is very heavy. The 
poor oxen are much to be pitied, having to drag it 
through deep, heavy sand, under a broiling sun, with¬ 
out one drop of water to cool their throats for two 
days. We must trek most of the night, too, as in 
the heat of the day they cannot move. A drop of 
cold, clear, sparkling water would be the greatest 
luxury that could be set before me just now ; what 
we do get is stagnant, muddy stuff from pits made by 
the Kaffirs, which they carefully fence round with 
hack thorns to keep the game from drinking them 
dry. Two stately giraffes walked yesterday parallel 
with the wagon, not more than 400 yards off, for 
nearly half an hour, and we did not molest them, 
as we had a superabundance of flesh for men and 

Elephants are, indeed, hard to come at now. I 
am very much farther to the north and west than 
Gordon Gumming ever went, and have only seen one 
spoor, and expect that I shall not be fairly amongst 
them for another three weeks. This has been almost 
the driest season ever known, and travelling in this 
thirst land is no easy matter; you must undergo 
great hardships, and much anxiety for your poor live 
stock. If possible, I wish this year to get to Sebi- 
tuane’s, on the Chobe Kiver, NW. from Mosilikatse’s, 
. and far north by east from Lake Ngami, if I can 



penetrate so far, but I have sad misgivings about my 
wagon, which is twenty-seven years old and very 
shaky and rickety, but perhaps, with the aid of green 
hides and rhinoceros skin, she may hold together. 
There are hardships enough in travelling in the thirst 
land, without the anxiety of fearing lest your old 
wagon should leave you in the desert far from any 
human assistance. I believe I have almost every 
other requisite for exploring the continent—health, 
strength, a constitution well inured to the climate, 
a constant supply of good spirits, a knack of gaining 
the good will of the Kaffirs, natives, and Hottentots, 
who will go anywhere and do anything for me, as I 
always lend a hand at anything, and study their com¬ 
forts as well as my own. I have no ties of kindred 
or friends here to make me wish myself amongst 
them. I never weary with vain regrets, but always 
make myself happy, and endeavour to make the best 
of everything, and interest myself in the journey 
throughout. I have now got a two-grooved rifle, 
made by Witton, the most perfect weapon I ever 
handled. It shoots perfectly true with any charge 
of powder, and with a conical ball and six drachms 
of fine powder I have never seen its force equalled; 
but the recoil will, I fear, twist me out of the saddle. 
If I live for another year I trust to be able to 
start with not less than three well-appointed wagons, 
oxen, horses, guns, ammunition, and stores to match, 
and then, if health is permitted me, I can go wher¬ 
ever my restless fancy and my love of excitement 



and adventure may lead me, and if the Kaffirs don’t 
turn me back, or, worse still, make an end of me, 
it will be a hard matter if I don’t make a good 
hunt. I entertain no fears whatever of the Kaffirs, 
who are the means of keeping nearly all the Boers 
from penetrating so far. I never listen to their 
threats, or the most likely exaggerated stories I hear 
from my own people of them. Now for a cup of 

23rd .—I have been resting the last three days, to 
recruit my oxen, at a place called Nkowani, but have 
not been idle myself. We got the first water at 
Mahaccan, where there are pits six or seven feet 
deep in the limestone rock. The water is not very 
bad to the taste, but smells abominably, and I make 
it a rule to drink as little as possible except in the 
shape of tea or coffee, or else with a small dash of 
brandy, and so avoid dysentery. I had a very long 
chase after a giraffe yesterday. I was very badly 
mounted on Manelle, a short, punchy cob, without 
any speed about him, but I eventually tired out 
the giraffe, and bagged at the fifth shot. I had been 
firing in despair at about 500 yards, and at length 
succeeded in hitting her through the buttock. I am 
ashamed to say my spurs were so clogged with 
old Manelle’s hair as to be of no further service in 
the chase. My after-rider, mounted on Final, brought 
the giraffe round to me, when Manelle declined to 
budge another step, and I gave the giraffe the bullet 
in the right place. On off-saddling Manelle, I found, 



to my disgust, that he was not the least blown, and 
lie ate and rolled instantly, nothing in the world being 
amiss with him. 

To-day I mounted Broon, a big, powerful, sixteen 
hands’ horse, of a different stamp altogether, and 
bagged a fine cow giraffe, the first shot, after a chase 
of about 1,000 yards, the pace being tremendous. 
John, an excellent rider, and by no means badly 
mounted, could not live the pace, and was thrown 
very far out. Giraffe hunting is very fine sport, 
but they are shy and wild here, and it is seldom 
you can come within 500 or 600 yards of them 
before they are away, but they do not put on the 
steam until you get within about sixty, when they 
screw their tails and tear away at a tremendous pace. 
They are all neck and legs, having very short backs, 
but a fat cow is really delicious eating. 

I struck yesterday, twice in succession, with a 
single ball, a yokeskey, a bit of wood 12 inches long 
by If inches broad, which I had stuck into the 
ground 120 yards off. My Hottentots were in ecsta- 
cies, applauding me most highly, and prognosticating 
all manner of success to me. I was obliged to bring 
out the brandy, and they managed to get rather more 
than was good for them, but a Tottie, half-seas over, 
is the most amusing fellow in the world ; they are all 
first-rate mimics, and John, who was formerly in the 
Cape Corps, and servant to Sir Harry Smith, made me 
cry with laughing at his anecdotes of the Governor. 

The weather at this season of the year, and a little 



later on, is one series of uninterrupted blue skies. 
The air is so clear that the moon is visible the whole 
day, and the nights are delicious, just cold enough to 
hug your blanket close and sleep sound as a top; 
while the horses, oxen, dogs, cow and calf lie in a 
circle around the wagon, where they come of their 
own accord from custom and for safety. 

2 8th .—I have had weary work of it the last four 
days. The weather has been awfully hot, and the 
clouds of sand raised by the tramping of fourteen 
oxen, and driven against me by a head wind, all but 
smothered me alive in the wagon, and has made me 
as black as a chimney-sweep. I don’t think I shall 
get the grit out of my mouth for a week, as every 
particle of food is full of sand. There is no game 
or water. The country is utterly worthless, and will, 
I have no doubt, remain in peaceable possession of 
Kaffirs as long as the world lasts. It is an almost 
endless flat, with rank grass, thorns, brambles and 
worthless scrub-brush, and it reminds me of being 
on the line in a calm day. I must own yesterday I 
was quite down-hearted. After riding for several 
hours in front with the horses, in search of water, with 
a damp handkerchief around my mouth to prevent 
thirst, we at length came to a pit with about three 
inches of mud and water, but it was such stuff that 
the very oxen, after being eighteen hours in the 
yoke, would not taste it; and, in spite of our utmost 
efforts, trampled the little there was into mud. The 
Kaffirs throw in the most virulent 6 wait-a-while’ 



thorn branches into these pits, to prevent the oxen 
from trampling. Two black clogs stayed behind, 
not being able to hold out any longer, but they 
came on during the night. The fawn and light- 
coloured dogs do not appear to suffer so much from 
the sun. I thought this fierce heat portended some¬ 
thing, and last night, to my intense joy, we had a 
desperate thunder-storm, which has given us water 
and freshened up everything marvellously. I bought 
a fat goat and recovered my usual good spirits, but 
the horses and oxen have fallen off very much. Our 
difficulties are now partly over. I hope in five days 
more to reach the Eiver Beauclekky, which runs out 
of Lake Ngami, NE. I have not seen a drop of 
running water for twenty-eight days, although trek¬ 
ing north-west full twenty days out of the twenty- 
eight, and averaging, one day with another, nights 
inclusive, ten hours per diem, at a rate of at least two 
miles an hour, as when we trek at night the oxen 
move merrily along, and a man must step merrily 
along on foot to keep up. 

I am much disappointed both in the country and 
the game. There is no variety whatever here ; only 
eland, giraffe, and blue wildebeest, with a sprinkling 
of duikers, steinbuck and springbuck, the kinds 
that are the least dependent on water, and even 
these are few and far between. The country will 
not bear a moment’s comparison with Mosilikatse’s, 
and it is my first and last visit in this direction. I 
have been uncommonly lucky, so far, with my live 



stock; as yet, I have only lost one horse, of course 
my best, but I have no reason to complain. 

May 8th .—We got to the river Chapeau, or Beau- 
clekky, five clays ago ; at first sight, it appeared an im¬ 
mense bay in every direction as far as the eye could 
discern, covered with flamingoes and pelicans. I rode 
in on horseback to endeavour to shoot one of the 
former, which have most beautiful plumage, but the 
bottom was muddy and the horse all but stuck fast, 
and the birds stalked and swam out of rifle range. The 
Kaffirs told us there were two lions, with young ones, 
in the reeds, and we must make all the oxen, &c., fast, 
and keep a good watch, as they were very savage; 
we .took all due precautions, but neither heard nor 
saw anything of them. Treked on to Chapeau, a 
Masara Captain’s, but he was very sick, and we got 
nothing from him, and heard that all the elephants 
had treked away from the river since the last rains. 
The Kaffirs had a weir across the river, and about 
fifty funnel-shaped baskets, set about a yard apart, 
facing down stream, in which they caught an im¬ 
mense quantity of fish, barbel and bream, in beautiful 
condition, and very good eating. I bought a lot of 
picked ones for a mere song, and salted them down, 
and enjoyed them not a little. I have shot six 
camelopards the last few days, having been very 
successful in finding them; and my two horses—- 
Broon and Luister—carrying me uncommonly well. 
I had a hard stern chase after one, right away from 
the wagon, up the wind. After the first shot I 




headed her, and by keeping wide away from her, 
and shouting lustily, I succeeded in driving her right 
to the wagon, and I rolled her over within 150 yards, 
in the midst of all the seven dogs. It was a grand 
sight, and she was in fine condition. We out- 
spanned at once, and finding water near at hand, in 
a vley, made a night of it, and laid in a good stock 
of flesh. We were all in high spirits, had an 
enormous fire, and huge marrowbones roasting all 
round it. It always surprises me that the Kaffirs 
do not get sick, the quantity of marrow, fat, and 

grease they consume is marvellous ; they have 
stomachs like a hyena, nothing comes amiss to them 



or disagrees with them. I had more or less sport 
with the rest of the camelopards ; one, shot through 
the heart, went headlong at a tearing pace into a 
mapane tree with three forks, about twelve feet from 
the ground, where it remained wedged fast and died 

A Kaffir brought an old musket to be mended, 
and, in botching away at the lock, I succeeded in 
breaking it in two places beyond my skill to mend. 
Although I tried to explain to him that it was acci¬ 
dental, and that I was doing all I could to assist him 
without any compensation, and had worked unre¬ 
mittingly at it for near two days, and that it was 
useless to him when he brought it, and consequently 
it was no worse now, he would listen to nothing: I 
had broken his gun, and I must give him another, and 
being a great man, brother to Chapeau, the Captain, 
and having a strong force at command, I was forced 
to submit, take his old useless musket and give him 
one three times the value. There is no arguing 
with a Kaffir ; he said that Wilson, a white man, 
did the same, that is, broke his gun in endeavouring 
to mend it, and instantly went to the wagon and 
gave him a new one. I do not doubt that he did 
so, as he had a lot of muskets. In the Kaffirs’ eyes 
a gun is a gun; they will give no more for a fifty 
guinea one than a new musket worth about 15s. I 
luckily happened to have one I had given 3/. for, 
otherwise I must have given him one worth 25/. 

A party of Bamangwatos followed the wagon 

R 2 



yesterday, well armed with assegais, axes, bows and 
arrows, and two guns, saying that I must not hunt in 
their country until I first paid them for leave to do 
so ; and that if I did not do so, and persisted in 
hunting, they would bring a command against me 
and kill us all. My fellows talked very big, es¬ 
pecially Auguste—a large powerful Kaffir, a Bequina, 
or Bechuana, one of Sechele’s— saying that if they 
wanted to fight they must come on ; we were quite 
ready for them at any moment, having plenty of 
guns and powder. I said nothing, but let things 
take their course, and merely ordered the wagon to 
go on, and left the Bamangwatos to do whatever they 
thought best. At night, I served out plenty of 
powder and bullets, a watch was kept, and every 
man had his gun handy. My fellows talk largely, 
but what they would do in case of an actual skirmish 
I don’t know. I don’t place much confidence in one 
of them, nor do I fear the Kaffirs, unless they can 
catch me unprepared—and I and my gun are con¬ 
stant companions. 

This river appears of immense breadth, nor do I 
see any possible way of crossing it, as I do not know 
where the stream runs to, and, as far as the eye can 
reach, there is nothing to be seen but reeds so tall 
and thick that it is impossible to force your way 
through them. There is safe harbour here for all 
the game and wild animals in South Africa. I never 
saw anything like it, and my Hottentots say it is the 
same all tire way to Lake Ngami, about thirteen days 


from here in a wagon. It is not far, but the sand is 
so heavy that the oxen can only take slow and short 
stages. We have plenty of good water now, but the 
frightful annoyance from mosquitoes at night counter¬ 
balances this advantage. I know of no country in 
the world that can compare with Africa for brilliant 
sport, but it must be confessed that this part of it is 
a sandy desert, only fit to keep a few miserable goats 
in existence. There is not a bite of grass now ex¬ 
cept along the edge of the reeds, but, then, it is 
winter. Although the sun is overpowering in the 
day, it is very cold in the early mornings and at 
nights ; and it requires a considerable amount of 
courage to get from under the blankets before sun- 



I found yesterday the fresh spoor of a troop of 
elephants, some very large bulls and cows, inter¬ 
mixed, and tracked them to the water. Last night, 
all the dogs were made fast, and small fires only 
allowed, as we were by far too near the spoor with 
the wagon ; but, luckily, the wind was right, and 
John and I went this morning, as soon as it was light 
enough to see, to find out whether the elephants 
had drunk last night, but they had not been. I wait 
quiet to-day in hopes they may come to-night; if 
not, I shall take the old spoor and go in quest of 
them to-morrow, for if they don’t come to-night they 
must find water somewhere else, as they must drink 
every second night at the longest. There is plenty 
of buffalo, giraffe, and rhinoceros spoor, but this is 



not what I want. The elephants are wary, and very 
hard indeed to come at, as they are now so much 
sought for, and every savage knows the value of the 
ivory. I have tried fishing to-day, as I dare not fire 
a shot for fear of frightening the elephants, who 
cannot be far away, but the water was too clear and 
the sun too bright to do any good. 

18 th. — No success as yet with the elephants, 
partly owing to the laziness of the Kaffirs, but partly, 
also, if the truth must be told, to my own impatience, 
obstinacy, and self-will. I hunted them five days 
successively, the Kaffirs, in the first instance, taking 
me to a brack or salt vley, two days out of my 
road, where there was not a sign of an elephant 
having been for the last six months. They did this, 
I have no doubt, under the orders of the Banians- 
watos. I was in a desperate way, and on getting 
back to the wagon I found that the elephants had 
drunk again at the river. This time I did not wait 
for the Kaffirs, but took the spoor myself, and 
eventually lost them in the densest hack-thorns I 
ever saw. It would have been impossible to have 
clone much good with them, even had I found them 
there; the poor horses scarcely had the saddles off 
their backs for the five days. 

I shot a fine specimen of the gemsbok or oryx, 
a cow, one of the kinds I had not yet got, and 
was well pleased; and I also drove a fine old eland 
bull to the wagon, not without great difficulty, as the 
mapani trees were so uncommonly thick that I could 



not see more than twenty yards before me. We 
lost him once, and kept galloping on like two fools, 
each thinking the other saw him, for 500 or 600 
yards at least, when John called out, 4 Varloup he 
sur.’ We instantly turned, and took up the spoor, 
following it a good hour and a half, silently and 
surely. I heard a clatter among the stones, and 
almost flew to the spot, when I caught a glimpse of 
my old friend going like the wind. After a mad 
burst through the mapanis, I came up with him and 
gave him another pill in the stern, and after that we 
had no trouble with him. 

24^/i.—I saw on the 17th leches, for the first time, 
and I was so anxious to get one that I worked hard all 
day, mostly on my hands and knees, but without suc¬ 
cess. My driver told me (not without reason) that he 
was a man who could shoot a leche ram. Singularly 
enough, the does are comparatively tame; and I had 
several chances at them, but would not hre. I was at it 
again early the next morning ; and, to my immense 
gratification, I rolled over a fine ram the first shot, at 
full 300 yards, skinned him with care, and preserved 
his head and horns in my best style, and was highly 
elated. Since then, however, I have shot three more 
fine old rams, and the novelty and excitement of killing 
a new specimen have worn away. 

On the same day that I bagged my first leche I 
bought, for the identical old musket before men¬ 
tioned, that I was forced to take in exchange, and 
which I had managed to patch up with an old nail 



and the sinews of a buck, to act, a little Masara boy— 
a waddling infant, certainly not more than two years 
old, but with an intelligent countenance, and not yet 
starved — whom I named Leche; and he is a fine 
quick little fellow. I am now quite fond of him. A 
gang of Bamangwatos returning to Sicomo’s, from 
hunting jackals, lynxes, wild cats, and skins of all 
kinds, had picked up this poor little urchin. They 
remained all night by my wagon, and the one who 
called, himself owner brought him to me. My inter¬ 
preter told me that if I did not take him they were 
just as likely to leave him as not, if they got tired of 
carrying him across the desert; and knowing the 
fate in store for him, even if they got him home — 
the slave of a Bamangwato, who live from hand to 
mouth themselves — I took compassion on him, and 
rescued him from their hands. 

Yesterday, Whitsunday, will long live in my me¬ 
mory, as one of the most miserable of my life. On 
getting up, later than usual, as it was Sunday, and I 
did not intend to trek, I was struck by an ominous 
silence in my followers, which boded no good; and 
as I was drinking my morning cup of coffee, Baffler, 
the driver, acting as spokesman for the party, told 
me he intended seeking a path to the house, and I 
then saw they had all ready for a move. Never for 
a moment thinking he was in earnest, I said, 4 Very 
well — he could do as he liked ; ’ when five instantly 
rose, and gave me back, with great parade, pow¬ 
der, bullets, and caps, and made many apologies - 


for the loss of one or two of the latter; then the 
driver gave me over rheims, straps, and whip, and 
asked for their wages. I told them I should not 
pay them a halfpenny more than they had already 
got, and I was only vexed that I had let them have 
anything before it was due, at which they appeared 
quite satisfied. They then wished good-bye to 
Matakit and Inyous, and started off. The two latter 
remained with me, speechless, and all but crying, 
telling me that w r e should inevitably be lost the first 
day, and the Masaras and Makubas would assuredly 
kill us. Finding the fix I was in—just two months 
from the house, in the middle of a bush, of which I 
was perfectly ignorant, and having the vivid remem¬ 
brance of that desperate thirst-land, which must be 
still worse now (this and a little later on being the 
driest season) — I resolved, after a stubborn conflict 
with my pride, to follow the runaways, to enquire 
the cause of their grievances, and offer any redress 
in my power. Acting on this good impulse, I told 
Matakit, who started with a heavy heart to do my 
bidding, to bring the horses. They were nowhere 
to be found. It instantly rushed to my mind that 
the blackguards, five in number, had taken them, 
and I told Inyous to go with me at once to try and 
find the spoor ; and knowing the cunning of the 
wretches, and that they would drive them a long 
way wide of the path, we dispersed ourselves (as an 
Irishman would say), and at last Inyous hit off the 
spoor of both men and horses. We followed a long 



way, till we found they had caught and mounted the 
horses, all of which were perfectly quiet and gentle. 
It then struck me that two men on foot going in 
pursuit of five mounted men was only a fool’s errand, 
and we were never likely to come up with them. I 
stopped and indulged in a reverie for a few minutes, 
when it struck me nobody was at the wagon, and we 
should lose twenty oxen as well. I called to Inyous 
to turn back to the wagon. No answer. I then 
roared and yelled again, till the woods resounded 
with his name. No response. I then fired off at an 
old stump an elephant shot, that made me reel again. 
Not a, breath in reply. I then at once saw that it 
was a made-up plot among them all, and that I was 
entirely deserted. 

I made my way back to the wagon as fast as I 
could travel, when I found only poor little Leche, 
who had cried himself to sleep under a tree ; the 
oxen had strayed away. After comforting the little 
fellow as well as I could, I had to start on the oxen’s 
spoor ; and by the time I had recovered them, made 
the kraal fast, brought wood and water for the night, 
washed out the greasy pots and dishes (everything 
the Kaffirs had left being in the same state of greasy 
filth), I found I had no sinecure. I discovered that 
there is a very great difference between ordering a 
thing and doing it oneself. I boiled a kettle of tea, 
and a saucepan of sago for Leche and myself, and was 
all this time too busy to give way or have time for 
thought; but when I had put the little fellow to 


bed, and sat all alone before the lire, I realised my 
situation—all alone in the desert, with a wagon and 
twenty oxen, not a soul that I knew of within reach, 
and I Avas wholly ignorant of the Maccateese language. 
I cursed my own pride and folly over and over again, 

m not acceding to anything my Kaffirs wished, rather 
than be left in this frightful predicament, for I was 
utterly helpless. The night I passed was horrible — 
fourteen hours of darkness, for the days were now at 
the shortest; I do not wish my worst enemy to spend 
such a one. I hoped against hope that Matakit and 
Inyous might return, though I could not blame the 
poor lads, as I knew' that scoundrel, Kaffler, had 
frightened them out of their senses, by saying that 
we were sure to be killed. When I got a few 
minutes’ restless, uneasy sleep, it was only to wake 



again to a sense of my utter loneliness and desolation 
— that I must leave all I had in the desert, run all 
risks, and endeavour to reach Lake Ngami on foot. 

The only chance of doing so, that I knew, was by 
following the course of the river, which would have 
been a difficult and arduous task; and then I could 
not bear the thought of leaving Leche to die of 
hunger and thirst in the desert. If you could only 
have seen the little waddling brat come, armed with 
a stick twice as long as himself, to help me kraal the 
oxen, and the way he toddled along to make the calf 
fast, without my ever telling him ! it brought the 
tears into my eyes in spite of myself. He slept at 
my feet, and, poor little fellow ! he also felt a sense 
of loneliness, and knew something was wrong, as he 
kept starting up and feeling for my feet, touching 
them with the greatest gentleness, and then lying 
down again. Thus we passed the night. Two or 
three times I w r as alarmed at hearing footsteps, and 
started up with my gun; but it w r as only the dogs 
walking among the dead leaves. I was up half a 
dozen times to mend the fire. At break of day I 
went to fetch wood and water, and comfort myself 
with a cup of coffee, and give Leche his breakfast, 
and make the oxen loose. Hearing Kaffirs’ voices 
over the river, I went to hail them, and fired, as the 
surest way of bringing them, for they can scent blood 
as far off as a hyena, and are always on the qui vive 
when they hear a shot. It was not long ere I heard 
a canoe cracking through the reeds, and three Kaffirs 


in it; but, alas! I had only four words in my voca¬ 
bulary— 4 beads,’ 4 go,’ 4 good morning,’ and 4 wagon.’ 
The two former and latter had the desired effect, and 
they came to the wagon, but left again as wise as 
they came, as w T e could not understand one another, 
even by signs. When I tried to explain to them 
that I wanted to go to Lechulatebe, the captain 
living on Lake Ngami, a very decided shake of the 
head, and their villanous 4 ngaw,’ like a spoiled child, 
was all I got. I left them in utter despair. 

Things never come to the worst but they mend; 
and in hunting my oxen, which had wandered very 
far up the river, I came across a party of Bamang¬ 
watos — men, women, girls, boys, dogs, and pack- 
oxen — exulting over the carcase of a roybuck. I 
shook hands with the greatest delight with these fel¬ 
lows, who understood a slight smattering of Dutch, 
and who asked me for meat. Not five minutes after 
I left them, having made a promise that they would 
come to the wagon, the dogs bayed an old eland bull 
in the thick bush, and I shot him dead ere he knew 
danger was at hand, to the inexpressible joy of these 

Though all hopes of shooting elephants were at an 
end, I positively jumped for joy when they told me 
they were going direct to Mangwato’s, and would 
gladly assist me to the utmost of their power, if I 
would give them a little powder and lead, and a 
heifer to the foreloper and cattle vachter. My 
mind was at.ease again, and I gave them the whole 



eland. My intention was to have gone on foot to 
Lake Ngami, to try and get assistance from Wilson, 
an Englishman living there, and then to kill time till 
I got some opportunity of going to Walvish Bay. 

I was planning all this in my mind, making myself 
happy with buffalo tongue, when who should come 
up to the wagon, jaded, wearied, and foot-sore, but 
Inyous. I sprang up, and could have hugged him. 
He and Matakit had followed the spoor far on into 
the night; and by a sort of instinct where to find 
the runaways (for they could not see), they came up 
with them, and induced them to return ; and they 
have just arrived with the horses, looking like grey¬ 
hounds. I at first took a high line, and told them 
that bringing the horses back was the best day’s 
work they ever did in their lives, as I would have 
hunted them far and wide, and they should have 
spent a good part of their days working on the 
roads in chains. But they coolly told me they were 
under Sechele’s government, and did not care a fig 
for the Boers and their laws ; and I at once saw the 
truth of it, and that I should most likely have had 
no redress. If I had come up with them on the 
horses, I should certainly have shot one or more of 
them, and should, in my turn, have been shot like¬ 
wise, as they were armed. I was soon obliged to 
lower my tone, and come down a peg. They said 
all they wanted was their wages for two months, and 
that, as I had not the means to pay, they had helped 
themselves ; and, on their threatening to leave me 



again, I said that, if they returned to their duty 
peacefully and orderly, I would never say anything 
about the horse-stealing business. They said that 
the cause of their deserting was my hastiness, and 
not following their advice, and speaking to them in 
English, which they could not understand, and they 
thought I was swearing at them ; but I think it is 
the fault of the old wagon, which was, when we 
outspanned, almost tumbling to pieces from the 
drought. The iron pins that fastened on the tires to 
the Alleys had dropped out of one wheel, and I 
replaced them by wooden pegs, and ordered them 
to put the wheels into the river for twenty-four 
hours, to swell and tighten. The last of the grog 
was broached, and both master and servants pro¬ 
mised to try and get on better together for the 

I had a visit in the course of the morning from 
live villains, who made me feel anything but com¬ 
fortable. As soon as I saw them, I put the guns, 
copper, and beads, and things that would excite 
their cupidity, out of their sight, and made some 
pretext of carrying a gun with me wherever I went. 
There was whispering and moving round me that I 
did not like ; and they seemed at one time to make 
a kind of general movement to cut me off from my 
guns in front of the wagon ; but I had taken the 
precaution of removing the caps, though the guns 
were loaded, so that they were useless in their 
hands. I jumped in at the back of the wagon, and 



carelessly took down one, played with the lock, and 
put on a cap, and they wished me good morning. 
I did not like their movements or appearance ; but 
perhaps I do them injustice, and their evil thoughts 
only existed in my excited imagination. 

21th. — We were unfortunate enough to run over 
Lou, about the most promising young dog I ever 
had; he was killed on the spot; and yesterday, 
two more. Bull and Falk, got severe prods from an 
old oryx bull, which I ran down on Broon by fair 

speed across an immense hat, distancing all the dogs, 
though they had a good start of me, and were fresh 
and hungry, and the day was cool; but old Broon 



proved himself, yesterday, to be an honest, stout, 
fast horse, with great endurance. The old oryx had 
fully 1,000 yards start, took straight away up the 
wind, galloping low to the ground, fast and strong, 
and in beautiful form. When I neared him he 
turned, dodged, and twisted from side to side, with 
amazing quickness, but Broon was with him at every 
move. Broon ran like a first-rate greyhound ; I shot 
the oryx from the horse’s back; and, being myself 
very much distressed, neglected to finish him; and 
when the dogs came up, he gored poor Bull, and 
caught Falk just above the eye, prostrating them 

I had a swim in the river, in spite of the croco¬ 
diles, which are very numerous : it is nervous work, 
however, and I was too much afraid to enjoy it, but 
felt much refreshed. We have been making our 
way all the morning through heavy sand and hack- 
thorns, which the oxen are with difficulty made to 
face. I am now going to Lake ISTgami direct; I 
wish much I had a pocket compass and a good 
telescope; the Jatter I left behind on my way. I 
see the river Beauclekky runs south-east from the 
Great Lake, and not north, as I had before imagined. 

Auguste wounded a cow buffalo yesterday, which 
charged him, together with a big calf or heifer; he 
scrambled up a low tree, tearing his legs badly; and 
while the heifer and cow were below, licking his 
feet, he reloaded and shot them both. Luckily, he 
had managed to throw his gun up before him, or he 




might have been kept there for a couple of days or 
more; he is quite proud of his feat. 

29th. — Yesterday afternoon we outspanned close 
to the river, within a few hundred yards of where 
elephants had drunk the previous, night, and we 
made all ready for a hunt this morning ; and I was 
awakened at dawn by hearing loud cries from the 
Masaras, over the river, that the elephants had 
drunk there in the night. We swam the horses 
over with the aid of a canoe. The river is about 
300 yards across, but the bottom is good, and the 
stream is not strong. The water is deliciously cold 
and clear — a great treat in this desert land. 



We took up the spoor on the opposite side of 
three bulls, not, however, until the bones had been 
cast, and the witch doctor or prophet had foretold 
that we should find them, and that I should shoot a 
fat bull, with one long and one short tusk. I fol¬ 
lowed silently in the rear of the spoorers, through a 
thick thorny bush. I had a presentiment that we 
were near them, and took my gun from the Kaffir’s 
hands ; and not three minutes after I saw, from the 
gesticulations of the Masaras, they had seen them. 
The dogs were slipped, and all was quiet for some 
time, when I heard Turk give mouth, followed im¬ 
mediately by the trumpeting of a bull. I made the 
best of my way in the direction, when I was turned 
by Raffler’s voice shouting, 6 Come here, Katoo,’ 
and made for him. I heard a shot behind me, 
turned at once, and caught sight of the retreating 
monster. The bush being uncommonly dense, I 
was fearful of losing him, and fired, striking him in 
the thick of the thigh, and he took up a position in 
a thicket, trumpeting and charging the dogs in all 
directions, making a loud crashing. Unfortunately, 
the cap was driven into the nipple at the first shot, 
and I lost some time in trying to get it out, and 
broke the point of my knife, but I eventually suc¬ 
ceeded with a strong needle, which I had in my hat. 
There were five men with guns, but no one had 
ventured into the bush to give him a shot; and the 
Kaffirs, no doubt, thought me afraid likewise ; but 
when I was sure of my gun I rode in on Broon, 



taking care to have a clear passage for a speedy 
exit. When within about twenty-five yards, he 
threw up his trunk and came direct towards me. 
The horse stood steady as old Time, and I gave him 
a conical ball, five to the pound, backed by six 
drachms of fine powder, on the point of the shoulder- 
blade. Mesh and blood could not stand before such 
a driver; and, staggering and stumbling forwards a 
few yards, he pitched right on his head within 
fifteen yards of me ; then my brave followers imme¬ 
diately rushed in and gave him a volley as he lay 
on his broadside, and it was all over with him. I 
was surprised to see that poor Bull, whom we had 
left behind on the sick list, had followed us. He 
had had to swim the river, and was now tearing 
away manfully at the elephant. 

Though the other elephants could not have been 
far off, all hunting was over for that day, as the 
sight of so much fat meat was irresistible to the 
half-starved Masaras ; and nothing I could offer 
would induce them to take up the spoor of the 
other bulls, so they will live to fight another day. 

The scoundrels, when they ran away, rode Luister, 
my second-best horse, two whole days without a 
saddle, and have given him a sore back, so that he 
will be utterly useless for the next month, and even 
then it is doubtful if he will be able to carry a 
saddle. What with sun, sand, and flies, it is very 
hard to heal a back when it is once sore. 

June 6 th [Sunday ).— I have not much to log up. 



Last week was a hard and unprofitable time. On 
Monday we crossed the river at dawn of day; not, 
however, until I had paid a bag of powder and a 
bar of lead for the use of two old canoes, which, 
however, were indispensable to us. We took up the 
spoor of a large herd of elephants, and followed it 
unremittingly till within two hours of sunset, straight 
away from the river, to a thick grove of mapani 
trees, the leaves of which very much resemble the 
beech, and are even now, in the depth of winter, 
green and luxuriant. Here we found a large herd of 
fifty or sixty, all cows and calves. They were feed¬ 
ing, but on seeing us they disappeared like magic; 
and, when the dogs got among them, they spread in 
all directions. I looked in vain for a bull, and then 
chased and shot a cow, within fifteen yards, behind 
the shoulder. I stopped to load, however, and lost 
her in the mapani trees; and, night coming on, we 
gave her up. I shot, also, an old bull buffalo, and 
we made our encampment for the night by his car¬ 
case ; and the Masaras and Makubas, though well 
wearied, made a night of it, that is, did not stop 
eating until morning ; consequently, only two that 
we sent for water were able to work the next day. 

On the Tuesday morning we found a troop of 
eleven or twelve bull elephants in a thick hack- 
thorn bush on the banks of the river. As they 
crashed away, I rode hard in their rear, shouting 
lustily, and singled out the largest bull. I rode 
close under his stern, and he cleared a path for me. 



He turned to see who had the audacity to ride so 
near, for the horse’s nose touched him, when I gave 
him a bullet behind the shoulder, and cleared out of 
his path. In reloading I lost him, and, cantering on 
his spoor, he very nearly caught me, as he had 
stopped and turned round just where the path 
turned suddenly and sharply to the right, and I was 
almost under his very trunk ere I saw him. He was 
lying in wait, and made a terrific charge, trumpeting 
furiously ; the horse was round like a top, and away 
I went, with both rowels deep in his flanks, as I 
threw myself on his neck. It was a very near 
shave ; his trunk was over the horse’s hind quarters. 
I went through bush that, in cool blood, I should 
have pronounced impenetrable, but did not come off 
scathless ; my poor hands are shockingly torn, and 
my trousers, from the knee, literally in shreds, though 
made of goatskin. After giving the elephant two 
more bullets I lost him. The dogs were frightened 
to death, and would not leave the horse’s heels. 

I shortly came across another troop of bulls, 
which took against the wind, leaving such a dust 
behind them, that I was half smothered. I rode, at 
last, a little wide of them, on the weather side, and 
was able to get a view of their teeth, and I rode out 
one with beautiful long teeth. He very soon lessened 
his speed, turned, and, before I was aware, charged 
me. I could not turn in time, and, therefore, fired 
right between his eyes. The shot struck him about 
an inch above the left eye, and brought him on one 


sechele’s daughter. 


knee, and I was able to get out of his way. He 
then took up a position in the bush, and I loaded 
and gave him two more bullets in the head, one in 
the centre of his forehead. He kept backing farther 
and farther into the bush, with his two enormous 
ears erected like fans, and, as I was thinking the last 
shot must tell on him, he made the longest and most 
furious charge I ever saw ; he fairly hunted me, 
while I was half loaded, clear away. I rode in a 
circle to endeavour to dodge him, and at length suc¬ 
ceeded. He stopped at fault, and I began to reload. 
I had none but conical balls, and the gun was foul. 
I could not get one down. That dastardly cur, 
John, never came near me all this time. I sought 
in vain for a stone, and at length, in despair, took up 
a thick branch, and what with hammering the ram¬ 
rod, and driving it against the trunk of a tree, I at 
length got the bullet home; but my elephant had 
made good use of his time and got clear away, and 
I returned to the wagons in rags, with the loss of a 
spur, and not a little discomfited, but it was madness 
to attack them in their stronghold. I also lost a 
fine old bull in a most foolish manner. After 
following his spoor several hours from the river, 
where he had been to drink, I saw him about 600 
yards off, and in riding to get at him from below the 
wind I lost sight of him. He had taken the alarm 
by the horse snorting or treading on a dead bough, 
and I never saw him more. Sechele’s daughter, the 
wife of a trader named Wilson, met us to-day, on 



her way back to her father’s, with one whity-brown 
little boy. He has deserted her, or she him; the 
latter I believe to be the truth. She is a very good- 
looking girl. I gave her some tea, meal, and salt, 
as I was sorry for the poor thing. She is going in a 
canoe as far as the river goes, but how she will get 
across the desert I cannot conceive. She has a strong 
party of Sechele’s men ivith her, and plenty of cows, 
oxen, sheep, and goats. It is a bad business ; it will 
be the means of giving Englishmen a bad name, and 
Sechele will probably stop our coming in future. 

Hottentots are necessary evils, as they know the 
language of the natives and the line of country; 
but they are lazy, useless dogs, receiving high wages 
and doing nothing, wanting to be masters, and 
making the trek very unpleasant; but I am entirely 
dependent on them at present, and they know it. 
John left me on the veldt to-day, to find my own 
way to the wagon. I had, luckily, taken particular 
notice of the course we had come, SW.; therefore, 
of course, I must ride HE. to return. I made a good 
deal too much to the east, as I had only the sun to 
guide me, but managed to come across the wagon- 
spoor, where I found my gentleman coolly drinking 
coffee and smoking, declaring that he never heard me 
fire or shout, and thought I had ridden back. He has 
a bad countenance, is a shocking thief, and the biggest 
cur and loudest talker I ever came across. 

Lechulatebe’s State , Lake Ngarni. — 15^A.—We 
arrived here on Friday, the 11th, not until I had 



received several messages from the Captain to make 
haste and be the first wagon at his State ; since which 
time we have been haggling and wrangling about 
the price of two horses, till my interpreter and I 
were utterly exhausted, the former drinking half 
my cask of sherry to keep his throat moist, till to¬ 
day I gave in and let the Captain have them for 
thirteen teeth of ivory, and a saddle and bridle into 
the bargain. I only gave 9/. for one nag, and the 
ivory I got for him is worth at least 60/., so that it 
was worth a little patience. 

I have just returned from seeing the Great Lake, 
the nearest point of which is about two hours and a 
half on horseback from here. The country all around 
appears to be a perfect flat, very unhealthy and unin¬ 
teresting, with a lot of rubbishy reeds at this end, but 
it is wooded to the banks on the- other side, and most 
of the way round. I gather from the natives that it 
is a three days’ ride round the lake, but that the tsetse 
render it impossible for horses. The natives are afraid 
to cross in their frail canoes, as when a wind rises the 
water is very rough. Three canoes were swamped 
not long since, and their crews drowned. Not far 
from the southern point, the road the wagons take 
to Walvish Bay, there is a high ridge of rocks, 
Lechulatebe’s stronghold, in case of an attack from 
Sebituane. These Kaffirs are always at war, cattle 
being the prime object. I could only get a very bad 
view of one end of the lake, but I must confess that 
I was disappointed in it. The chief went with me, 



and, by the aid of an interpreter, gave me all the in¬ 
formation he could, and was very kind and obliging. 
He is not a bad fellow at heart, I think, but a dread¬ 
ful beggar and very covetous. He appears to have 
no idea of being refused anything he fancies, gives 
you nothing in return, wants your things on his own 
terms, and asks outrageous prices for his. He 
is young, active, an elephant-hunter himself, a good 
shot, and possesses guns made by Wilkinson, Hock, 
and Manton. On our return I swam the river, which 
is here about 300 yards wide, and he invited me to 
dinner. We dined in the open air, and were attended 
by the prettiest girls in the kraal, who knelt before 
us and held the dishes from which we ate. They 
wear no clothing but a skin round their loins ; their 
legs, arms, necks, and waists are ornamented with 
beads of every variety; and ivory, brass, and copper 
bracelets. Finer made girls than some of the well- 
fed Kaffirs, I suppose, are not to be found. They have 
small hands and feet, beautifully-rounded arms, 
delicate wrists and ankles; their eyes and teeth are 
unsurpassable, and they are lithe and supple as a 
willow wand. 

They say perfect happiness does not exist in this 
world, but I should say a Kaffir chief comes nearer 
to it than any other mortal ; his slightest wish 
is law, he knows no contradiction, has the power of 
life and death in his hands at any moment, can take 
any quantity of wives and put them away at any 
moment, he is waited upon like an infant, and every 




wish, whim, and caprice is indulged to the fullest ex¬ 
tent ; and he has ivory, feathers, and karosses brought 
to him from all quarters, which he can barter with the 
traders for every article of luxury. Our dinner con¬ 
sisted of roasted giraffe, swimming in fat and grease. 
The intestines are the daintiest morsels, and, put¬ 
ting prejudice on one side, I assure you the English 
never make use of the really best part of the animal. 
I always do in Eome as Borne does, eat (if I can) 
whatever is set before me, and shut my eyes if I feel 
qualmish. Nothing approaches the parts most re¬ 
lished by the natives in richness of flavour, and racy, 
gamey taste. The Kaffirs know well the best parts of 
every animal, and laugh at our throwing them away. 
But enough ; I enjoyed my dinner. We washed all 
down with a bumper of sherry, and then adjourned 
to the wagon to drink tea. Perhaps a person with a 
delicate stomach might have found fault with the 
means used to fasten on the lids of the different 
dishes; but the native plan is an excellent one, as 
everything is kept warm, and nothing can boil over 
or escape. Everything was scrupulously clean ; and 
jackals’ tails waved in abundance by the many slaves 
in attendance kept away the flies. 

I afterwards exchanged my hat with the Captain 
for a pair of leather crackers, but had to give beads, 
knife, fork, and spoon into the bargain. The rascal 
had no conscience, and after plaguing me till I pro¬ 
mised to give him some tea for the second time—for 
I had sent him about a pound on my arrival,—-he 



immediately despatched a messenger for an immense 
earthenware jar, which would hold at least two chests, 
and was highly indignant at th e pigmy appearance of 
the tea I put in it. He then plagued me for meal, 
and when I offered to exchange with him for corn, 
provided he gave me two measures for one, he de¬ 
clared there was none in the State; he lies like a 
trooper, and only laughs when you find him out. 
He appears to be very good-tempered, however; but 
all Kaffirs have great self-command, and they rarely, 
if ever, come to blows. 

I discharged John for refusing to obey me, and 
the day after Lechulatebe gave him a wife ; he will 
give me one, also, if I like to remain here, but I 
must not take her away. Powder and lead he has 
in abundance. 

18 th .—Inspanned and started home, earlier than 
I had intended, in consequence of one of my oxen 
being sick. Lechulatebe, fearing lung sickness, 
would not allow them to remain. I was disap¬ 
pointed in an elephant hunt, owing to a man dying 
most inopportunely in the State. Lechulatebe would 
not let me go, unless I took one of my own people 
with me ; he said that in case any accident happened 
he should get the credit of having ordered his people 
to kill me. To-day I measured two trees called 
mowane ; one was twenty-seven and the other twenty- 
eight yards round the bole. At about six feet from 
the ground they spread into four immense stems, all 
bending outwards, and leaving in the middle a spa- 



cions apartment, exactly one foot between each stem, 
where they branched from the main bole, widening 
upwards, and at eighteen or twenty feet from the 
ground the circumference of the tree must have 
been forty yards at least. I should live in one of these 
if I stayed in this part. I took another youngster, 
a Masara, out of pity. He was almost at death’s 
door from starvation, beating, and shameful usage. 
Mutla (Thorn) is his name. He is a shocking object, 
and makes me shudder ; he is almost a living 
skeleton, hollow-eyed and hollow-jawed. 

20 ih (Sunday ).—We have had a long-continued 
run of the loveliest weather that ever poor mortal 
was blessed with, and I am very well. I wish I could 
say the same of poor Mutla ; from the barbarous 
treatment he has received it is a great chance if he 
pulls through. His head is half battered in and his 
whole body is one mass of scars and wounds, and 
his skin, from starvation, and eating roots and reeds 
and anything he could find to support life, is in a bad 
state. We smear him with grease and gunpowder 
in lieu of sulphur, and, to eradicate the disease, 1 
added a little mercurial ointment, and would have 
added a few drops of turpentine, if I had had any ; 
however, he is young, and with care I hope he will 
get round. Before he came into my possession he 
had had the charge of a flock of goats and some 
kids, which he had to look after all day and bring 
home at night, and one of the latter was missing one 
day; it was eventually proved that the poor starving 



wretch had killed and eaten it, and the enraged 
owner flogged and maltreated the boy within an ace 
of taking his life, as Lechulatebe had done to another 
boy a little while before. The other little fellow, 
Leche, is as fat as a porpoise, oily and shining, and 
very like a young sea-cow calf. I never saw a pig 
lay on fat so quick; but he does nothing but eat, 
drink, and sleep, and can hardly waddle. If you lay 
him on his back, he is like a cast sheep, and cannot 
help himself. He would have drowned yesterday in 
a foot and a half of water if we had not rescued him. 
To-day is the third day we have been without flesh 
meat of any kind or sort; the game is entirely ex¬ 
terminated, guns, pit-falls, and poisoned arrows have 
done their work, and last year’s drought and famine 
had left the natives nothing to live on but the spoils 
of the chase. The pit-falls which they make are 
about eight feet deep with a bank in the middle, so 
that whatever game falls into one of them falls 
across the bank, and cannot touch the ground on 
either side. 

The river is very full, and still rising rapidly, over¬ 
spreading its banks far and wide, and driving us 
back to cut a path through the bush, which is so 
thick that our tent is smashed, and two strong canvas 
sails are torn into shreds. The lynch-pins, from con¬ 
stant contact with trees and stumps, are knocked into 
all shapes, and it is a work of time and smiting with 
axe and hammer to take the wheels off to smear. 
And yet not a drop of rain has fallen for months, 



and the river is the only water; every vley in the 
country is dried up. I cannot in any way account 
for it — it is one of Nature’s freaks. 

I am of Barnum’s opinion, that it is not so hard to 
make money, even here, where it is so scarce, as 
to keep it when made. The old wagon still holds 
together miraculously, by the aid of false lears, 
rheims, and greenhide, and I verily believe will see 
Natal yet with a few repairs, as the wood is well 
seasoned. Four days ahead lie the remains of an 
old wagon tumbled to pieces, with one good wheel, 
which I shall exchange wiih my worst, and other¬ 
wise fit her out as well as my tools will allow me. I 
think I have some 700 lbs. of ivory on the wagon, 
and she is loaded up to the roof with skins and 
rubbish of the Kaffirs, which must be thrown away, 
if I can only get ivory. Dubabe is the name of the 
Makuba chief living at the head of the Great Lake. 
This place offers no great inducement to come here 
again, unless from Walvish Bay, as the Kaffirs have 
got plenty of all they require. 

22 ncl .—This morning I came across a swarm of 
Kaffirs in great glee, having caught a bidl elephant 
in a pit-fall. They make these very well, and cover 
them over neatly with reeds, then a layer of grass, 
and then sprinkle them with sand and earth, so that 
they are very difficult to detect, and the elephant, 
sagacious as he is, falls a victim. This country is 
done for the sportsman ; there are too many Kaffirs, 
Bushmen, and Masaras, all hunters, and the pit-falls 



clo very great execution; tliey are well supplied 
with guns, powder, and lead from Walvish Bay, and 
they watch the different drinking-places of the ani¬ 
mals every moonlight night, and buffalos, rhinoceros, 
&c., must succumb. It is only with great toil, daily 
labour, and by traversing immense ranges, that, in my 
legitimate mode of sporting, I can keep my people 
going in flesh, and we have been hard set since we 
have left the Great Lake, and have made great 
inroads into the meal. My coffee-mill is smashed to 
atoms, and we have to crush or pound the best way 
we can. We manage with a stamp block, like a 
pestle and mortar, as there are no stones in this land. 
The sugar has been long since finished—nine fellows, 
who all took a sly taste when opportunity offered, 
soon made an end of it; it is impossible to keep it, 
and we must drink coffee and tea, ‘carle’ (as the Dutch 
say), naked; the former is rather insipid, the latter 
I manage well enough. Three of my people who 
are married are most anxious to get home, talk about 
nothing else, and would drive the oxen to a stand¬ 
still if I did not interfere. This is a great annoyance 
to me, and I don’t know how to remedy the evil. 
Sechele’s people receive so much for the journey, 
long or short, time makes no difference to them; it 
is a bad plan, and I will make different arrange¬ 
ments another time. Everyone but myself has some¬ 
thing to look forward to at the end of the trek— 
wives, fathers, mothers, brothers, sisters, friends, or 



The Hottentots and Kaffirs, being used to go with 
Dutchmen, who are all married before they are out 
of their teens, and ride like the wind to get back to 
their fraus and kinders, cannot understand that, as I 
have no home to return to, all places are alike to 
me, and that I have nothing to gain by pushing on. 
As they have nothing to gain by remaining, of course 
we don’t hit it off well, and it riles me to hear them 
everlastingly talking of getting home. 

The only thing I see for me to do, as I cannot get 
people with the same feelings, or rather in the same 
situation as I am, is to go to Mosilikatse and live 
there altogether for one or two years. I shall be 
well treated, and have the best hunting South Africa 
can produce. I shall only be following out Albert 
Smith’s theory, who says that the colonies are only 
refuges for destitute social suicides. 

The Kaffirs, though they always get plenty, are 
too selfish to give me a morsel, when I run short of 
game, even if the trees all around were perfectly 
red with meat. They don’t refuse point blank, but 
make excuses, saying, ‘ The master of the elephant 
is not there,’ ‘it is not theirs,’ &c., and put you 
off as well as they can. The best of them are an 
ungrateful race of heathens. As they sit on their 
hams with a huge piece of meat in one hand, and a 
six-feet long assegai in the other, cutting and slicing 
away, they are in perfect happiness and contentment, 
envying no man living, as long as the flesh lasts. 
They have nothing, and, consequently, have no cares, 




and when they have plenty of food are supremely 

2 §tli .—I have got on very slowly the last four 
days. Broon, my favourite horse, was taken sick on 
Wednesday and died on Thursday, in spite of all the 
remedies I knew of—profuse bleeding, blistering, 
and powerful emetics. This is the first instance in 
my experience of the horse sickness in the middle of 
winter; it is a sad loss to me, and nothing can replace 
him here. I had been nursing him up for the ele¬ 
phants on my return. He died hard indeed, poor 
fellow! and at his final death-struggle I could not 
repress a tear; he was my best friend, and I never 
had the same affection for any animal. I could not 
but admire the symmetry of his form after the breath 
had left his body. He was a powerful horse with 
great endurance ; he played with the swiftest giraffe, 
and was more than a match for any game I ever 
chased. At his swiftest speed I could guide and 
check him with a pack-thread ; he was a noble 
animal, all that a man could desire in a horse : docile 
and gentle, at the same time full of fire and courage, 
and would face fire or water, or the most virulent 
hack-thorns, and turn his head from nothing his 
rider had the courage to put him at when in pursuit 
of game. I killed with him twenty-seven head of 
large game, and never had a fall through all the 
holes, pit-falls, and fallen timber with which the bush 
abounds. I have now lost all heart for the hunt, and 
care not how soon the trek comes to an end. My 



other nag, Fleur, is a regular brute, very timid, 
swerves at everything, will not face thorns at all, and, 
as he always carries his head as high as his short 
neck will allow him, he stumbles over every stump 
and into every hole he comes across, keeps changing 
his legs continually^when pressed into a gallop, and 
always appears to be going very much against his 
will; and it is very hard work to keep your seat on 
him at all, as he makes a succession of buck-jumps 
over or into every scrubby bush, consequently makes 
no way; and his only redeeming point is that he is 
a very fast walker and an excellent roadster, being 
uncommonly easy in his paces when on a beaten 
path. Manelle, my other nag, is an incorrigible 
slug, and, if you ply the sjambok severely, bolts into a 
thicket, there stops and kicks as long as you thrash. 
The reader will ask why I buy such brutes P My 
answer is—They are salted, have come through the 
sickness, and are guaranteed by their former owners 
not to die; a good salted horse is worth from 40/. to 
75/., and is not always to be had, even at that price. 

I worked hard at the old wagon for a whole day 
with great success, and, with taking the best parts 
of the other old one and the one good wheel, I 
have patched up mine into a very respectable, ser¬ 
viceable-looking vehicle, and she cannot now be 
drawing under 2,000 lbs. weight. We, however, 
stuck fast all last night in a mud-hole, had to unload 
to the last thing, and trek her out backwards, which 
we succeeded in doing to-day, after great breakage 



of skeys and two yokes, rheims and straps. We 
must remain where we are over to-morrow, to repair 
damages for a fresh start. In the pursuit of a 
giraffe, yesterday, I lost all my bullets and caps, and 
after giving her one bullet in the stern, and making 
sure of her, much to my mortification I had to 
let her go. The weight of the bullets and hack- 
thorns, together, had burst the pocket open. 

July lltli (Sunday ).—I have neglected the log for 
some time, having been very ill indeed for about ten 
clays from my old enemy—bilious fever and ague. I 
am better now, thank God, but very weak, and unfit 
for any work. Thanks to my medicine-chest, I had 
calomel, colocynth, emetics, quinine, &c., all at 
hand, and, by judicious use of one and all, 
having had plenty of experience how to deal with 
the complaint, I pulled through for the fourth time. 
My people had given me up entirely, not being used 
to see a man, with his teeth chattering in his head 
like a magpie, sitting swathed in blankets before a 
roaring fire in a broiling sun, and being icy cold. 
This stage is followed by violent perspirations, 
attended with excruciating headaches and pains all 
over the body. I suffered much more this time than 
ever I did in any former attack. I had no rest at 
nights, until I took twenty-five drops of laudanum. 
The coarseness of the fare set before me quite turned 
my stomach, I could not face it, and nothing what¬ 
ever passed my lips but weak tea for seven days; then 
I swallowed a little pheasant broth, and so gradually 



came to. How I longed for soda water, or black 
currant tea, and all the little delicacies a man 
fancies when he is ill! I tried to make gruel, meal 
being all I had; the rice is finished, and everything 
else except bread arid meat, varied, as they say in 
Australia, by meat and bread; the latter, however, 
is only coarse meal and water, as I have no sieve to 
sift the bran, and though all goes down with a relish 
when I am in good order, I found it a very different 
thing when ill. One of my Kaffirs, Inyous, was mos^ 
attentive to me the whole time, sitting up half the 
night chafing my feet and hands, and I frequently, 
when in some of my worst fits of ague, saw him in 
tears. He evidently thought it was all up with me. 
The Kaffirs, one and all, accused Kaffier—a Hottentot 
—of having given me poison in my coffee, and there 
was a great row, Auguste swearing if I died he 
would shoot Kaffier, and the latter saying he would 
leave the wagon forthwith. I had great difficulty in 
procuring order once more amongst them, and now 
the matter is to come before Sechele. The day pre¬ 
vious to my being taken ill they had refused to go 
out with me elephant-hunting, in consequence of the 
badness of my horse, saying I should assuredly be 
killed, and then Sechele would blame them for it. 
Kaffier and Auguste have also been ill, the latter 
really; the former always thinks himself so, and is 
bled, cupped, cut, and doctored at every Kaffir state. 
He has the most depraved stomach I ever saw; he 
always bothers me for medicine, and smacks his lips 



over castor oil, and evidently enjoys it, as well as 
rhubarb and ipecacuanha. In fact, I have tried him 
with all the most nauseous drugs mixed up in any 
manner to make them still more disgusting to the 
taste, and to get rid of him I once gave him a large 
spoonful of mustard in a pint of warm water, which 
he sipped off like coffee! I then told him to follow 
it up by plenty of warm water, and I believe it had 
no effect whatever on him ; he will drink a cupful of 
strong vinegar at a time if he can get it, and nothing 
disagrees with him. 

I was so much better as to be able to take the 
field again two days ago, and shot a buffalo, two 
quaggas, springbok, &c., and once again replenished 
the larder. The river is still very full, and the face 
of the country entirely altered. We have to take a 
fresh course, our old track being under water in most 
places. This, I fancy, must be a very unhealthy part 
of the world in the summer months. As the present 
is the most healthy season, there is generally little 
fear of fever and ague ; but my constitution is much 
shattered, one fit after another has told upon me, and 
an attack, instead of leaving one free for a time, only 
makes one more liable to another. I am afraid I 
must give up this life and remain altogether in Natal, 
in the Upper Division, where it is perfectly healthy, 
and I shall be entirely removed from any fear of 
more attacks. I have heard Dr. Livingstone has had 
something of the same kind ten different times. 

17th .—I have been better and worse this week—on 



the whole, very unwell; in a great measure, through 
my own fault. I was excited in the chase of a 
broken-legged leche ram, which I struck at an incre¬ 
dible distance; he instantly took the water, and I 
swam five rivers in pursuit, having on a pair of goat¬ 
skin trousers, which struck me icy cold after the old 
ram was bagged, and I rode all day in them looking 
for the wagon, which I eventually found in a pit-fall, 
having fallen into one when going through some 
water; they had to offload everything, but eventually 
righted without any mischance. The Cape wagons 
are wonderfully suited to the country, and will bear 
any amount of knocking about, and the oxen’s gear 
is so simple that we can, at any time or place, repair 
all damages. 

I suffered very severely for my rashness. I just got 
to the wagon and beneath the blankets in time to 
lessen the severity of the attack, but I felt certain 
that if I had not found the wagon and had had to 
bivouac in the open, I could not possibly have got 
through the night, but must have died, there being 
no wood to make a fire, and a cold, cutting, windy 
night. I bought a goat, but it goes no way among 
ten hungry Kaffirs. I have, however, paid off two, 
as I found my establishment too expensive, and the 
more rascals I have the less work I get out of them. 
Yesterday I succeeded in killing two fine, very fat 
cow giraffes, each with a single bullet, after a very 
long, hard chase, in which, for three-fourths of the 
way, I had only dust to guide me through thick 



mapani trees, the whole chase, without one solitary 
open place. I and my horse were both beaten to a 
stand-still, and I hardly know which of us took the 
longest time to recover. We went blundering, 
stumbling on the last 1,000 yards, all but down half- 
a-dozen times, as I could not afford him the slightest 
assistance, until, when I saw the trees were becoming 
thinner and the leaves almost all gone, I scrambled 
off instinctively, utterly exhausted, gave the gun 
a little elevation, and rolled over the fattest cow 
in the troop, with her long neck broken in two 
places. I had previously jumped off and shot at a 
large, well-grown heifer. I heard the cool 4 clap,’ 
but, as she bounded away at a tremendous pace, I 
was not aware I had killed her. The Kaffirs, who 
followed the horses’ spoor, saw the blood spoor, and 
found her, not 200 yards off, shot dead through the 
body, a little too far back. I lay on the broad of my 
back fully two hours, I think, before my after-rider 
ferreted me out, and his eyes sparkled when he saw 
more than an inch deep of fat in a slit I had made 
along her loins. We at once proceeded to skin and 
cut her up, and we took the direction of the wagons 
with both nags well loaded with delicious meat, and 
three niggers staggering after us with as much as ever 
they could totter under. I despatched four more 
immediately on arriving at the wagon, as there were 
still some three hours’ sun, for we had gone out early 
to hunt, and I grudged leaving the meat on the velt. 
I gave the other giraffe entire to the poor, half- 



starved Masaras. Bad news awaited my return. 
Leche’s former owners were at the wagon, in a strong 
force, bringing back the old musket, broken, as I felt 
sure would be the case after a few shots, and insisting 
upon another gun, or his being returned. After a 
long talk, in vain, I was obliged to give him up—most 
reluctantly, however, as I had become quite fond of 
him, and I knew the poor little urchin’s fate. There 
is nothing but starvation and ill treatment staring 
him in the face, but I can do nothing alone amidst 
hordes of savages; besides, I must allow that they 
are this time decidedly in the right, and brought 
back the last thing I gave in exchange most punc¬ 
tiliously. They offered to take another gun, but I 
have only two left, both valuable weapons. 

We bade a long good-bye to-day to the beautiful 
river Beauclekky. I shall, most probably, never 
again see it, as I am greatly disappointed in the 
country altogether, from the great scarcity and wild¬ 
ness of the game, and the varieties, which constitute, 
in my estimation, the greatest charm in shooting, 
being few. Since leaving Natal this time, however, 
I have shot six varieties new to me, which is in 
itself worth the whole time, expense, and distance, 
in my opinion. I am always on the look-out for a 
new kind of buck, and make every possible enquiry 
from the natives, and examine every kaross they draw. 
Every man has his hobby, and this is mine, and I 
have no one here to please but myself; and, barring 
the coast sickness, which is a little hard to bear, I 



could not pass my time more to my own liking. 
Certain kinds of bucks are only to be found in cer¬ 
tain localities: thus the inyala is only to be met 
with in the strand bush along the coast, where 
it is very unhealthy; then in the deserts other 
varieties, independent of water, are to be got. 
The harrisbuck and roan antelope are not to 
be found on the Great Lake route, where, 
again, it is the only place the leche is to be found. 
At the end of this book the reader will find a list of 
the names, in English and Kaffir, of all the different 
bucks I have myself seen and shot; and the nakong 
is the only one of whose existence I am aware that 
I have not shot. He is only to be met with among 
the reeds close to the water’s edge, I believe, but 
have never seen him. There are other varieties, no 
doubt, spread over the continent, but I have never 
heard of them, even indirectly. 

Poor Leche was borne away this morning, poor 
little animal, making the most determined resistance 
in his power, as far as shrieks and kicks went. I 
have grown very fond of children—black ones, for 
choice, I do think—as one never hears them cry, and 
they are as patient as Job, never ask for any food, 
and are very quick in learning; and, where a white 
one would not leave his mother’s apron, the black 
youngsters fetch wood and water, make a fire, and 
cook their own food, run about, show no fear, and 
lend a hand at everything, and sleep on the ground, 
rolled up like a ball, in a sheepskin, before the fire: 



I am speaking of brats between two and three years 
old. It was a sore sight for me to see my little 
manikin borne away; I could not have been fonder 
of one of my own. His large black diamond eyes, 
with their long lashes, used to twinkle like stars; and 
his little teeth, white and even as snow-flakes, were 
exposed in a double row as he saw me coming to the 
wagon well loaded with meat behind the horse, and 
he used to clap his little hands with delight, and 
scream and dance again. He was a sad little ogre, 
and I am afraid it was more for love of the meat 
than of me, as, when I returned empty-handed, there 
were none of these demonstrations of joy. 

19th. — We are now once again fairly in this 
much-dreaded thirst land, where the villainous salt 
water has the same effect as Epsom salts. If we 
are fortunate, we hope, with the aid of spades, to 
obtain a sufficiency of this stuff to keep man and 
beast in life, every second day, until we come to the 
Bamangwatos, when I am going to take a different 
course to the Merico, by a river called Hotowani, 
■which runs into the Limpopo one day below the 
point where we join it. The grass is very scarce and 
dry, and all my oxen and horses are in very low 
condition, two or three of the former almost 
knocked up. 

I must not omit to mention the ant-heaps in this 
land, which are very extraordinary. They average, 
one with another, from ten to fifteen, or even, twenty 
feet in height. They are conical, very broad at the 



base, and tapering off beautifully. There is an 
eternal sameness across this vast desert, and hardly a 
head of game ; but, luckily, we have a goodly supply 
of giraffe, and I am driving two fat goats along for 
slaughter, whenever the former comes to an end. 
Eight Kaffirs make fearful inroads into it, boiling, and 
broiling, and baking on every possible opportunity; 
that is, whenever we have a fire. I am decidedly 
better, but very weak, always feeling a great incli¬ 
nation to lie down, and the ]east exertion entirely 
prostrates me. I sit in the wagon propped up with 
pillows and skins, but my appetite is fast returning. 
I have engaged two Maccalacas Kaffirs, smart, able 
fellows, to go down to Natal with me, and am well 
provided with good Kaffirs, which is a great thing 
in treking. 

31s£. — Caballa .—We are now within three days 
of Machin, the chief of the Bamangwatos, but our 
difficulties are not yet over, as I hear to-day we shall 
find no water along the whole road. This is the 
worst season of the year to cross the Kalahari desert, 
for not a drop of rain has fallen for many months. 
I have not, however, been treking all the time. I 
have, somehow, lost two days during my illness, as I 
know by comparing the age of the moon with an 
almanack which I have with me. We have found 
water five times since Saturday the 17th, and I 
remained a day each time to refresh the oxen. Once 
the water was only sufficient for two horses and 
eleven oxen. Pioneers, with spades, went out a day 



in front, to open the dry bed of a sand river, and 
old pits that sometimes had water, but though they 
dug down to solid rock they never got anything more 
than a muddy puddle, half an inch deep. The 
weather has been cool, with a nice wind, and we 
made great way in the moonlight nights, treking all 

night. I had the satisfaction of once finding water 
myself. We were in great need of it, and I was 
riding due east across the desert to water the horses, 
if possible, for, even if they are not at work, horses 
suffer much from want of water. I saw two black 
objects in the far distance, which I took to be 
ostriches, but, cantering sharply in the direction, I 
found they were two Masara women, who, having a 
heap of egg-shells in a net-work slung on their 
backs, I saw at once were going for water. I made 



them show me the way, and I found a small pit in 
the solid rock, about eight yards in circumference, 
and about nine inches of tolerably good water. I 
immediately sent my after-rider to the wagon, to tell 
my people to bring the oxen and water-vats. Twelve 
oxen drank it as dry as a board, and eight poor 
beasts had to go without. It was a long way from 
the wagon, and though I started at sunrise it was 
sunset before the oxen got back ; we inspanned those 
that had drunk and treked all night, the next day 
and next night, and half the following day, when we 
arrived at Nkowani, where we found abundance. 
Three days after leaving the river Beauclekky, I 
came across the Bechuanas—Wilson’s wife, Sechele’s 
daughter. Wearied and foot-sore, unused to walking, 
she was dead-beat and unable to proceed. I acted 
the part of the good Samaritan, and gave her and her 
brat a seat in the wagon all the way to Sechele’s. 
The child annoys me greatly; he is about twelve 
months old, a sickly, pale yellow, having powerful 
lungs, and an everlasting squaller. I don’t much like 
such baggage, and she is attended with a retinue of 
Sechele’s people, who, though they have bucks, 
sheep, and oxen, will kill none, but live on me. 
However, I can’t help it, and have meal enough to 
see me to Merico. Some hard-hearted brutes, Mang- 
watos, one night left behind them a little Masara boy, 
who was entirely knocked up, to die of hunger in 
the desert, or, more likely, become food for the 
wolves and jackals. I heard of it the next morning, 



and, after rating them soundly for their cruelty and 
want of feeling in leaving him—-at which they only 
laughed, saying he was only a Masara (a dog) and of 
no consequence whatever—I volunteered to go back 
and look for him, provided that, if I found him, I was 
to have him. To this they would not listen, and so I 
bought him for ten rings of copper, provided I found 
him, and rode back on the spoor to where we came 
from. I searched lots of bushes and holloaed lustily, 
and all but knocked up my poor horse to no purpose, 
for we could not gain the slightest trace of him. 

Over-exertion in search of food and water, and 
anxiety of mind, brought on a return of fever and 
ague, and I have been three days very sick, having 
had no sleep, as it was necessary to trek at nights, 
and the rolling, jolting, and straining of the old 
wagon rendered sleep impossible. Yesterday we 
remained here, and to-day I took the field, though 
weak as a cat, and shot the finest bull eland out of 
a large troop, heavier than the fattest ox, and we 
brought to the wagon a goodly supply of meat— 
enough to last me to Natal—but I expect these 
hungry blacks will see the end of it in a week, at 
farthest. All this time we have had sufficient water 
for ourselves, being well supplied with utensils-—an 
auker which holds nine gallons, a large water-vat, 
an immense ox-horn, three or four calabashes, and 
half a dozen giraffe bladders ; besides which the 
Kaffirs carry the paunch of a goat, buck, or sheep, 
and cook and eat the bag when the water is done. 



Pet Jacobs, an old elephant hunter, and a good fellow 
in every way, was here where I am now standing a 
fortnight ago, when the lions killed two of his horses, 
and the other two, in their fright, galloped away. I 
do not know whether he has found them again. This 
is a heavy loss to him, as they were all salted horses, 
and worth at least 200/., and the poor fellow lias 
been obliged to turn back. 

August 2nd .—I think this is the right date, but I 
have quite lost my reckoning, and it may or may not 
be so. 

We left Caballa yesterday, my.twenty head of 
cattle having drunk all dry, and not got enough, 
poor things; and we treked on to Letloche, where, 
three months ago, I enjoyed a swim in at least nine 
feet of water, but now it is only one deep mud-hole, 
with a little drop of water trickling through. We 
made a drain from the spring through the mud to 
the only practicable place for the oxen to drink, and, 
seeing lots of quagga-spoor, I stuck a white flag on a 
staff into the mud to scare them away, if they came. 
It had not, however, the desired effect, as the brutes 
came and drank more than half the water that had 
run into our reservoir. I was vexed with myself 
that I did not sleep among the rocks and shoot them, 
but I am too unwell to risk sleeping out in the open 
air, and I was dead knocked up with a two hours’ 
chase after a troop of giraffes. I broke the leg of 
a fine heifer at the second shot, but wishing to lay 
in a good stock of meat, as I knew it was my last 



chance, I did not stop, but re-loaded at the gallop, 
thinking that my after-rider was sure to find her. 
After a long, stern chase, I again came up with the 
troop, and shot a cow above the tail, and never in all 
my experience did I see anything go like her. At 
the occasional glimpses I got of her through the 
trees I saw she was bathed in blood, but she kept on, 
and I could not gain an inch on her. At last, horse 
and man being utterly exhausted, I tumbled off, 
gave her a long shot in a clear, open place, and 
missed her. She had led me directly from the wagon 
into the mountains, among the klips, boulders, and 
stones—ground that giraffes, when hard pressed, 
always make for, as they have great advantage over 
a horse on such ground. Leading my horse round, 
I turned to take a last look at her, when, to my 
astonishment, she was standing; I re-mounted, mus¬ 
tered a canter, by dint of great persuasion, and, on 
nearing her, she again went away at her long, 
awkward, swinging gallop; but this was her last 
effort, she could only hold on about 100 yards, and 
then stood, and I saw she was mine—so I rode along¬ 
side, letting her walk along to a shady tree, where I 
dropped her dead with a bullet through the heart. 
My after-rider was thrown out entirely, and never 
saw anything of my first broken-legged oile, and, 
there being no water, we could not stop to go on 
the spoor, and I lost her. 

I am now outspanned in a valley, my people dig¬ 
ging at a sand-hole in hopes that water will rise 




by morning. The little there was in the hole we 
transferred most carefully to the anker. I hope to 
get to the Bamangwato State to-morrow. I hear 
Sechele is there, having just returned from Mosil- 
ikatse ; the latter gave him, I am told, forty oxen, 
forty sheep, forty goats, and lots of ivory. 

6£/z.— I found Sechele, as I expected, at the 
Bamangwato State ; and, instead of receiving thanks 
from him for the safe convoy of his daughter, he 
merely pointed to her and said, 6 That is my child, 
whom an Englishman, your countryman, has thrown 
away. I thought the English were my friends ; but 
now I see they are just the same as the Boers, and 
wish to make me dead; and as they have treated 
me so will I treat them.’ He told me that I must pay 
his man, whom I had engaged for two heifers, there 
and then ; and that, as I had no heifers, I must 
give him two bags of powder and two bars of 
lead, and do it at once, as he was going to inspan 
and trek to his State. I did so ; and then he 
ordered his people to drive, my horse Fleur to his 
horses, and he should take him also, and let me see the 
way the Bechuanas acted when they were wronged. 
I could do nothing but submit, which I did, with a 
very bad grace. My driver and his driver told me 
that the moment Sechele was gone the Mangwatos 
would unload my wagon and take everything, as I 
had gone through Machin’s country without first 
asking his leave ; and they begged me to inspan 
and go with Sechele. The road I had intended to 



go was stopped, in consequence of the Saltpansberg 
Boers having taken the guns from four of Se- 
chele’s hunters, and beaten them about the head. 
Sechele told me I must not go that road, or his 
people would assuredly kill me, taking me for a 
Boer, as they do not venture to the wagon in the 
daytime, but murder you in your sleep. In this 
pleasant state of things, therefore, with the certainty 
of being robbed of everything if I stopped, and 
murdered if I went Kotowani’s road, I was obliged 
to take advantage of Sechele’s escort. I found that 
all these rows are owing to the war going on between 
Moshesh and the Free State Boers. Mahura — a 
powerful chief near Kuruman, on this side the Yaal 
Biver — the Bastards, Griquas, Corannas, Bakatlas, 
and a number of other tribes, have, I hear, all joined 
Moshesh’s standard ; and the latter sent messengers 
to Secliele and the Bamangwatos for their assistance 
in driving out the Boers, of whom they have already 
killed eighty. Sechele tells me he has sworn solemnly 
before God that he will fight no more unless he is 
first attacked, and therefore refuses help. I hear 
that Scoonman’s men (Boers), in the Saltpansberg 
district, surrounded a Kaffir State on the top of a 
mountain, inaccessible, or thought by the natives to 
be so, from all but one side, which was strongly 
barricaded and guarded, and scaled it at night by 
the help of rheims. The Kaffirs in the morning 
were panic-stricken, on seeing the Boers on the top 
of the berg, and great numbers threw themselves 



off. The Boers then slaughtered 1,000 men, 30 
women, and 10 children, without meeting any re¬ 

But to return to myself and Sechele. For two 
days I took no notice of him, outspanning far off, 
and avoiding him on every occasion. The third 
day he came to the wagon. I did not salute him in 
any way, or offer him a seat, or take any notice, but 
maintained a dignified silence ; and he asked me 
what my thoughts were. I told him I had thought 
he was my friend, and for friendships sake I had 
brought his daughter out of the desert, and treated 
her in every respect as I would my sister; and, 
instead of receiving his thanks, he had taken my 
horse, and left me and my people to die of hunger 
in the desert; that one of my people had already left 
me on that account; and I asked him whether this 
was acting a friendly part. After a long rigmarole 
about his reasons for taking the horse, he said that, 
as I took it so much to heart, if I gave him a gun 
instead, he would return the horse. 

His ground for claiming the horse was this : When 
I asked him on the road for two people to go with me, 
he asked a horse in payment; but I would not listen to 
such an exorbitant demand, and told him so, and then 
he said he hoped God would take care of me, as I 
was determined to go without people. Our roads 
separated ; and the following day a Bechuana came 
to my wagon, and I engaged him for two heifers. 
However, though Sechele’s claim was unjust, I was 



in his power ; so, after wrangling, and arguing the 
point, till the interpreter left us to fight our own 
battle, ultimately I had to give him old Burrow 
(worth 10/.) instead of my nag (worth 30/.). I con¬ 
gratulated myself on getting off on these terms, as, I 
must confess, I did not expect ever to cross Fleur 
again. The Bamangwatos followed my wagon a 
long way, saying I must not go away — Machin was 
coming to trade with me, and wanted also to see 
me ; and at last they said, if I did not stop, I should 
never more come in the country again ; the path 
was stopped for me, and they would trade nothing, 
but take what I had from me. I was more than 
half inclined to stop ; but my driver, who knows 
the Kaffirs well, was very anxious to push on and 
join Sechele’s wagons, which were a little ahead; 
and I had received such ominous warnings from 
Puller and other Bechuanas, who lent a hand to 
inspan, and were evidently most anxious to get me 
away, that I let Kaffler have his own way, and get 
away from the State as fast as I could. Sechele 
told me he was my friend, and the friend of all the 
English; and if the Mangwatos had taken all my 
goods and chattels, he would have turned back and 
demanded restoration; and if they had refused, he 
would have gone to war; but I did not know how 
much of this to believe. From the fact of his men¬ 
tioning the thing at all, I am led to think that the 
Mangwatos had some such intention, which I should 
not have believed, had he said nothing about it. 



Puller told me that he overheard them saying what 
they would do when Sechele had gone ; but I am 
always slow to believe such stories, as I have been 
among the Kaffirs of every tribe and nation for the 
last seven years, and have never been actually mo¬ 
lested by them. 

Lopepes Vley. — Last night the lions paid us a 
visit, frightening Sechele’s oxen out of the kraal, 
and killing two within ten yards of one another, but 
a good way off from the wagons. I and twenty 
Bechuanas, all with guns, had a long unsuccessful 
hunt after them this morning, following the spoor to 
within forty yards of some very dense reeds ; and I 
feel sure they are safely housed there now. Sechele 
and his men fired two volleys among the reeds; but 
I told him it was only powder and lead thrown 
away. I bought about 100 lbs. of ivory from Se¬ 
chele, on pretty good terms, as I can make about 
200 per cent, profit on it. This will help to pay my 
losses, or his exorbitant demands. We intend to 
remain here three days, to refresh the oxen, as the 
road from here is very heavy, and we shall find no 
water for three days. 

8tli [Sunday). — I am now all anxiety to get to 
Sechele’s State, hearing that the German mission¬ 
aries, who went down for their wives, and by whom I 
sent two letters, have returned, and I am longing to 
receive a batch of home news. It is now eighteen 
months since I heard a word, even indirectly, from 
my friends. As soon as I reach Kapong, four hard, 



heavy days ahead, I shall leave the wagon, and ride 
on, as I can no longer control my impatience. 

Sechele makes a great show of being very reli¬ 
gious, saying a long grace before and after meat on 
every occasion ; and he has been holding forth to 
his people and singing half the day. He will not 
allow a shot to be fired or any work to be done, 
and certainly sets a most praiseworthy example him¬ 
self. He is most anxious to get home, but will not 
travel on Sunday on any account. I cannot tell 
whether he is sincere, or only does so through fear 
of Moffat, a Scotch missionary, who has all the 
Kaffirs under his finger and thumb, and can do just 
what he likes with them. He has been living very 
long amongst them, educates the different chiefs’ 
children, and has thoroughly gained their confi¬ 

Wth .— On the 9th, the hind axle of Sechele’s 
wagon broke, but luckily not till we got to Batla- 
narmi, where there was a little water at the bottom 
of two deep holes, which we got at by means of a 
ladder formed of a tree with several branches. We 
lowered in the tree, on every branch of which was 
a Masara, who handed up the water in a large iron 
can, and we cut- a drain running into a sort of dam, 
and by this means most of our oxen got a small 
portion ; we brought them two at a time, and my 
poor oxen had to go without till the following 
morning, as it was owing to Sechele’s forethought 
that there was any water at all. He had despatched 



messengers to the Masaras three days previously, to 
open and clean out the pits. He came to me, saying 
he was as ignorant as a stone what to do about the 
wagon, that I must repair it for him, and prove if I 
was really his friend. It was no use my telling him 
I could not, for the Kaffirs believe all white men can 
do anything. I therefore made the best of it, cut 
down a branch of a camel thorn-tree; and having 
a saw, axe, adze, and augurs, put a bold face on the 
matter, and put in a false axle, which will run to the 
State at all events. A man never knows what he 
can do till he is tried. When I left England, if a 
man had brought me a broken-down wagon to put 
a new axletree in, I should as soon have thought of 
flying as making the attempt. Sechele looked on 
the whole time, and proposed the most ridiculous 
plans of making the axle secure. Amongst others, 
he hit upon what he and his people were unanimous 
in considering an excellent one, and they were highly 
displeased I would not act upon their suggestion: 
this was, to screw the augur through the false 
axle deep into the old one, and there let it remain. 

We have just had a very narrow escape of being 
burnt up; our road lay through thick mapani 
trees, with tall white grass, thick and dry as a deal 
board, on each side. Some one had set the grass on 
fire in fifty places behind us and below the wind. 
A stiff breeze was bringing it to us at a tremendous 
pace, and we were enveloped in dense smoke. I 
saw at length, some distance away, the red flames 



breaking through, ancl soon heard the roaring and 
crashing of the fire. There was an opening in 
the bush 200 yards ahead, and I slipped a box of 
matches in my pocket, and ran for my life there, 
setting fire to the grass in a dozen places under the 

wind, which instantly roared and tore away magni¬ 
ficently ; and the wagons, whipping on through the 
smoke, had only just reached my friendly burn, 
when the fierce flames came tearing up, crossed the 
road instantly and burnt themselves out at the tail 
of the wagons, for want of fuel. The ground, how¬ 
ever, was so hot that I burnt the soles of my shoes 
badly, and the poor oxen in the yoke kept shifting 
their feet incessantly. Meantime, we were all work¬ 
ing like demons, throwing sand on the hot embers 



to enable the poor oxen to stand. It was a critical 
moment, and I don’t know when I have felt so ner¬ 
vous as I did then ; for, in case anything had taken 
fire, we had hardly a drop of water to extinguish it. 

The road is frightfully heavy, and this is the third 
day that most of my oxen have not tasted water ; 
only eight got any at Batlanarmi; and though we 
treked most of last night, in spite of the darkness, 
I do not expect to reach any until to-morrow, and 
we must ride all night to-night. Mutla has gone 
mad, from sun and thirst together, and run away 
into the bush. Matakit brought him back, strug- 
gling frantically, and I have been obliged to make 
him fast. I hope it is only a sun stroke, and he will 
come round, his poor head being half battered in in a 
dozen places by savage, barbarous treatment. I sup¬ 
pose his brains have only a slight covering of skull, 
and Kaffirs wear no hats or covering for their heads. 
I have been obliged to load up, for the second time, 
Sechele’s daughter, child, goods and chattels, and half 
an eland bull killed yesterday. We left Sechele’s 
other wagon behind last night, a perfect wreck ; 
every spoke is out of one wheel, and past my skill 
to repair. He never asked me to try, his good 
sense telling him that it was all but an impossibility. 

lith.—Sechele’s State .—We arrived here yester¬ 
day ; found a large arrival of German missionaries 
from Natal, no less than six ; they are active, ener¬ 
getic fellows, all tradesmen and good workmen, and 
have in the space of six weeks, with wretched mate- 



rials to work on, built themselves not only a good 
substantial house with five large rooms, but really a 
tasteful, elegant building, with a wide verandah on 
three sides. They are clever, learned, well-informed 
men also, and pass every spare moment in hard study, 
in acquiring the Bechuana language, which is no easy 
task, as they have only the New Testament, translated 
by Moffat, to assist them. They are happy, hos¬ 
pitable fellows, and make most excellent colonists, 
being able to turn their hands to anything in the 
world. I found two letters awaiting me from Natal, 
but none from England, so that I must curb my 
impatience a little longer. 

Bad news from Merico; two more of my horses 
are dead, which I thought were salted, and had 
sold with a guarantee for 22 1. 10s. each, which 
I must now refund. I have not heard the fate of 
two more I left behind, also sold guaranteed. The 
Kaffirs tell me that the war with Moshesh is over, 
the Boers having made peace. According to their 
version, Moshesh had by far the best of it; and I 
hear Mahura and Pretorius had a little target 
practice at one another for a few hours, when the 
Boers retired worsted, but they will tell a very dif¬ 
ferent tale. 

18 th .— Hasfowl Kojo , or Vulture Head .-—Left 
Sechele’s on Monday, the 15th, he presenting me 
with three panther skins, a mean present after all 
his promises and all that I had given him ; but it 
is the character of the Kaffirs to get as much as 



possible from you, and give as little as they can in 
return. My new false axle ran well to the State, 
over a frightfully stony road, with a heavy freight. 
I have shot nothing ; two hard unsuccessful days, 
and my people are very hungry. To-day, by 
w r ay of change, I came across a hole in the bed of 
a river, with only about two and a half feet deep 
of mud and water in it; but it was crowded with 
barbel. My fellows went in and speared fifteen 
in five minutes, averaging each from 2 lbs. to 3 lbs. 
weight, and some 4 lbs. or 5 lbs.; but they were not 
in good condition, and their flesh was soft. How¬ 
ever, we ate them with great gusto; if so minded, 
we could have killed at least a hundred. 

A honey-bird took my Masara to-day almost into 
a lion’s mouth ; he was within five yards ere he saw 
him crouched down ready to spring. According 
to his own statement, he showed good presence of 
mind, shouting at once to the lion to 4 look there — 
look there! ’ pointing in an opposite direction, upon 
which the lion stood up and did as he was com¬ 
manded, when the Masara made an expeditious re¬ 
treat. Living the life the Kaffirs do, entirely in the 
open air from their infancy, and never having a hut 
of any sort or description, such occasional encounters, 
I fancy, are not unfrequent. I have been but very 
poorly the last three or four days. I am totally 
prostrated in strength, unfit for anything, the least 
exertion bringing on profuse perspiration, and I am 
suffering much from indigestion. I fear I shall not 



shake off the effects of this last attack till I can 
enjoy a few swims in the lovely bay of Natal. 

23 rd. — Merico Country. — I arrived here on 
Friday night, and found all the Boers in Laagaar, 
with all their beasts, sheep, goats, horses, dogs, 
ducks, geese, fowls, pigeons, monkeys, cats, calves, 
and children without number. There is hardly a 
blade of grass to be seen in any direction — a pretty 
state of things for my jaded hungry oxen. I there¬ 
fore lost no time in seeking a better neighbourhood, 
and Dederick Knitse allowed my oxen to run on his 
farm, which is about an hour on horseback from the 
Laagaar ; and here I now am, and intend to remain 
for eight or ten days to recruit my oxen a little, 
and repair the old wagon, which has held together 
so far marvellously. More bad news: my other 
two horses were also dead, and I must refund 150 
dollars (11/. 55.), which is not easily done. I find 
everything uncommonly scarce and dear, almost a 
famine in the land ; meal, mealies, slaughter oxen 
or cows, and milch cows, are not to be had for 
money; consequently, my Kaffirs have a hard time 
of it; game there is none ; and I spent yesterday 
(Sunday) in the Laagaar. The men are wuaried to 
death from ennui, and pass their time in round 
loping, drinking brandy and coffee to a frightful 
amount, swearing and quarreling. One day amongst 
men of my own colour, although I had been five 
months without seeing a white man, was quite 
enough for me ; but little real good feeling exists 



between an Englishman and the Transvaal Boers, 
and still less their fraus, who are very bitter 
against the English. However, there are some good 
fellows ; and 1 must say that one and all have 
shown me the greatest hospitality, notwithstanding 
the scarcity of the times. An Irishman has just 
been informed against by one of his own country¬ 
men for selling powder, guns, and lead to the 
Kaffirs, which is the greatest crime a man can be 
guilty of, in a Dutchman’s eyes. It seems the two 
Patlanders, to keep their hands in, I suppose, had 
had a scrimmage on the path, and the worsted one 
had taken this mean revenge of informing against 
the other. 

I brought over the field-cornet this morning to 
inspect my wagon, and see that the number of guns 
tallied with what I took in. After asking many inqui¬ 
sitive questions, and rigorously cross-examining my 
Kaffirs and Hottentots, he is satisfied, and has given 
me a pass to Pretorius, certifying that all is correct. 

3Ps£. — I am now on my way to Mooi Eiver Dorp, 
where I intend again to rest my oxen for a few days, 
ere setting out for Natal; but I have managed, by 
swopping and buying, to get nine fresh ones, which 
will wonderfully assist my worn-out span. 

Two bucks’ heads that I prized very highly 
(harrisbuck and roan antelope), which I shot last 
year in Mosilikatse’s country, and left in charge of 
a Boer, have disappeared. He tells me the wolves 
went into the house and took them away, and his 



story is corroborated by another Boer ; but I have 
strong suspicions it was two-legged wolves. 

The scarcity here is so great that there are hun¬ 
dreds of Kaffirs who must die of hunger ere this 
year’s corn is lit for harvest. The poor creatures 
would only be too glad to work for their food, but 
they cannot obtain it, as every Boer has on his place 
as many as he can possibly provide for. 




1859 . 



May 15 th, 1859.—I pass over the last eight months 
of my life, during which I have been clown to Natal, 
and completely fitted myself out for another hunt in 
the far interior. I am now outspanned near Sechele’s 
—three wagons, forty-seven oxen, five cows, five 
calves, eight horses, six dogs, thirteen servants (Hot¬ 
tentots, Kaffirs, and Bastards), and two companions. 
I am now ten weeks from Natal, and, so far, every¬ 
thing has gone favourably, and looks well and 
healthy. Two oxen have been lost through the 
Kaffirs’ carelessness, and six good horses have fallen 
victims to the South African scourge, inflammation 
in the lungs ; a few dogs have been run over and 
killed, the wagons upset a couple of times or so, 
and a few minor casualties, the natural concomi¬ 
tants of wagon-travelling, have happened, which I 
pass over without more comment. The game has 
been scarce, and unusually wild and shy on the 
trek; and the gunpowder not very straight; and 



the natural consequence is, that very little has, as 
yet, fallen to our rifles. We have always thus far, 
however, had a sufficiency of animal food to supply 
our own wants, and those of our four-footed com¬ 
panions. The grass is good, and yet, with but little 
work, the nags are in very low condition. 

I left sixteen oxen behind yesterday, in charge of 
Cos Lindsey, Sechele’s brother. I was well treated 
by that chief, and he not only threw no obstacle in 
my way, but he offered me any assistance in his 
power. I brought him up from Natal a large iron 
bedstead, with mattress and pillows, as a present; 
and all looks favourable for a good hunt. The 
Boers treated me well also, but tried to deter me 
from going in by false representations, rumours of 
war with Mosilikatse, Machin, &c., and saying it 
was unsafe to think of venturing in; but the mis¬ 
sionaries at Sechele’s say I have nothing to fear, and 
that it was only a ruse of the Boers, to endeavour to 
dissuade me from penetrating farther. My outfit has 
been a very expensive one, but this year all my ap¬ 
pointments are good, and worth any day what I gave 
for them. The outlay altogether is very heavy, owing 
to the distance of the elephants, the size of our 
party (sixteen, all of whom I have to feed), and the 
presents I have to make on the road. But I fully 
expect to make a good return on my outlay, if the 
horses will only be so obliging as to live for a few 
months. A friend of mine has lost both his horses, 
and no amount of money can replace them here. I 



have sold an old screw to Sechele for nine very large 
powerful trek-oxen, worth 50Z. We have charming 
weather, good food, plenty of exercise and employ¬ 
ment, lots of change of scene, and are all in rude 
health. We had a delightful rain two days ago, which 
freshened up everything; and although to-morrow 
night we must bid adieu to water for two whole 
days and nights, travelling three parts of the time, 
still I do not anticipate any great hardship for the 
oxen, as the country is good, the weather cool, and 
the wagons not very heavy. To-morrow (Monday) I 
hope to get a giraffe or an eland, and lay in a good 
stock of flesh before reaching the thirst-land, as we 
cannot work the horses there, on account of the 
want of water. 

The wagons are, to all appearance, as good as the 
day they left Natal, and I have put a new buik-plank 
and lear-booms on my old one, and freighted her 
with meal and mealies for the horses and Kaffirs, and 
she will, I think, hold for another journey. The far- 
famed Kleinboy, of Gordon Cumming renown, forms 
one of my retinue. He is a most amusing dog, 
though incorrigibly lazy; of no use, except as an 
after-rider, though he talks largely of his hunting 
exploits, and wants me to pay him so much for 
an elephant’s head, instead of by the month, which I 
have agreed to do. I have another old Bastard — 
Kaffeta — a really good elephant-hunter, I believe. 
My old Kaffirs, Matakitakit and Inyous, and Fanga 
also, are still with me, and I value them highly, and 



can trust them entirely. Ingunya, alias Mickey, a 
sad lazy, independent dog ; Sconyan, a refugee, a 
worthless, quarrelsome hound ; and Incomo, a really 
good, useful, handy fellow, who followed my fortunes 
from the Lake last year, compose my lot of Kaffirs. 
Old Tebe, a horse-tenter, a willing, trustworthy old 
slave, joined forces yesterday ; and Dirk Baffler, an 
excellent driver, but otherwise utterly useless. Aling- 
ton and Woodcock each have a slave : these, with a 
couple of hangers-on, who do nothing, compose our 
troop of attendants. 

27 th. — Sicomo's State. — Nothing particular to 
record, with the exception of the death of three 
horses — Mowba, Klinkfoot, and Little Fanny. I 
grieved much for the last; she was never beaten 
in Natal at any pace, and her last exploit, the day 
before her death, was being in at the death of a 
fine cow gemsbok, or oryx, the fastest antelope in 
the country. We have bagged three giraffes, two 
gemsbok, three elands, and a fair lot of roybuck, 
since leaving Sechele’s, where the lung-sickness broke 
out amongst my oxen. I immediately shot the first 
one which fell sick, and inoculated all the rest, and 
we have had no more deaths at present. 

I have made Sicomo some presents, and expect 
him down at the wagons immediately. He throws 
no difficulty whatever in my path, is much pleased 
that I came to see him, and says he will be my 
friend, and render me every assistance. I had hoped 
to get a horse from him, but am disappointed in this 



respect. The Bamangwatos are great beggars, and 
ask for everything for nothing, and have as yet 
brought nothing down to trade, which does not suit 
my book at all. 

We got through the thirst-land admirably, the 
weather being pleasantly cool. We made good 
play at nights. I never felt the want of water so 
little. The Masaras took us a good deal out of our 
way, and excited our hopes by saying that a large 
troop of elephants drank every night at a fountain 
not far distant. We bent our way there, and 
saw only old spoor; they had left with the last 

My stud is now reduced to three — a woful 
falling off. I left Natal with seven, and purchased, 
at tremendous prices, four in Mooi Biver Dorp, three 
of which I still have, and the fourth I have sold. 
All my Natal nags are dead; one ox is dead, and 
two are lost. These are at present the extent of my 
losses, with the exception of two sheep ; but I have 
shot or traded nothing, so far, that will help to com¬ 
pensate me for them. 

We are all still in good health, but very anxious 
to get among the elephants, as the season is getting 
on fast. I have preserved the gemsbok heads, and 
they are now drying in the sun on the top of the 
wagon. They are good specimens of a rare and 
handsome antelope, fleet as the wind, enduring as the 
giraffe, and shy as the ostrich. 

It is intensely hot to-day, and my writing-desk is a 



cask of wine, standing on its end. It is harvest-time 
here, and the gorge is alive with women going and 
returning with heavy baskets of corn, millet, pump¬ 
kins, and water-melons. 

June 2nd. — -Letloclie .—We stayed at the Bamang- 
wato State four days and a half. Traded a little 
ivory, twelve karosses, fourteen sheep and goats, 
and a few ostrich feathers. Heard that Mosilikatse’s 
commando was on its way to assist Machin against 
Sicomo, and that they were coming in two bodies. 
Sicomo advised us to trek away as fast as possible; 
that he was quite ready to receive them, and had his 
spies out in every direction, and a regular patrol 
kept. I exchanged three cows and a calf for four 
oxen; one was very wild and savage, and detained 
us a whole day, running away, and charging furiously 
at everyone who attempted to turn it. I was mounted 
on old President (so named from having been bought 
from Pretorius, the President of the Transvaal and 
Free-State Republics), who had the heels of the brute, 
and avoided nimbly and well several savage charges. 
We ultimately got the ox tied up to the wagon-wheel, 
and all thrashed him, and inspanned him next morn¬ 
ing, and he treks well. 

Last night, while I was absent enjoying a delicious 
bathe in the fountain, the Kaffirs, in extracting some 
tobacco from under my cartel, managed to discharge 
my rifle in the wagon. The bullet went through 
four double-blankets, a kaross, the cartel, a double 
chest of tea, glanced along a pick, through a barrel 



of wine, and finally lodged in the upper lear-boom of 
the wagon. The kaross is badly burned with the 
powder. The wonder to me is that the rifle did not 
burst, as it was lying on the bed, and the muzzle 
must have been blocked up with blankets. 

To-day we had a difference of opinion as to the 
road to take; my Hottentots all wanted to go 
towards the Lake, but the Kaffirs were frightened to 
death at the thoughts of going to Mosilikatse. 
Incomo has gone back again, and has given me 
his heifer for some beads and copper; he has been a 
real good Kaffir to me, and I paid him well. 

I took the middle line bearing towards Sebituane’s, 
or rather Sekeletu’s; the Hottentots sulked consider¬ 
ably, but made no decided objection. I hear another 
commando of Mosilikatse’s is coming in in the direc¬ 
tion I am now going. I would rather not meet them, 
though I do not think they would molest me, but all 
my people would bolt. The horses that are left are 
fresh and well; game is very scarce ; lots of rain has 
fallen, there is plenty of water, and the grass still 
green, plentiful, and nutritious. The oxen are in 
good working order, pull together admirably, and 
stick at nothing. 

12 th [Sunday). — The poor oxen have had a very 
hard time of it the last ten days, through heavy 
sand and bush, without any running water; the 
little water we have been able to get for them has 
been ladled out of wells and poured into limestone 
basins ; and on one occasion we had to draw every 



drop of water from an extraordinary natural well, 
some thirty-five feet down to the water. Since leaving 
Letloclie, we have got water at Nkowani and Mahac- 
can, a Maccalacas post, under Sicomo, Kasir chief, and 
at Ramaqua—green, slimy stuff. There was, however, 
delicious water at Massouey, a fountain pure as crystal, 
where we first saw the Great Salt-pan, and a magni¬ 
ficent piece of scenery exactly resembling the sea 
coast; it was difficult to imagine oneself so far in the 
interior. We measured a tree called Cream of Tartar, 
sixty-one feet round the bole ; but there are many 
very much larger. 

A troop of half-starved Maccalacas followed us, 
and we shot three giraffes for them. Six of them 
volunteered to go on to show us the waters, but 
they lost themselves yesterday, and took us in a 
regular circle ; we at length got to some brackish salt 
stuff, near the Great Salt-pan. We left the Great 
Lake road some days ago, and have carved out a 
route for ourselves. The country is very dry here ; 
scrubby mapani trees, and a great scarcity of game, 
which I attribute to the want of water, and dryness 
of the grass. We came to some new burns the other 
day, where the grass was green and sweet, and found 
a great variety of game, but, after missing some 
gemsbok, we contented ourselves with bringing two 
elands to the wagons. No sign as yet of elephants ; 
they are a weary way off, to be sure, but I hope this 
week to make the acquaintance of one or two. I 
am sorry to say the people about Mangwatos were 



great thieves. We miss now many things that 
cannot be replaced, amongst others my bullet-ladle, 
the loss of which puts me out a good deal. I have 
converted an old iron spoon into a sort of ladle, and 
it serves for a makeshift. The tumbler of one of my 
guns is also broken, and my large nipple-screw and 
small hand-vice are stolen. I hear the sickness is this 
year very severe ; in fact, at the Lake they think it 
is going to sweep them all off the face of the earth. 
I was in sad tribulation about Gyp and Juno the 
other day. They lost themselves in the thirst-land, 
as they remained by a wildebeest I had shot, but 
they made their way by wonderful instinct back to 
the wagon during the night. 

I have twenty-five or twenty-six mouths to feed 
every day, and the wagons get most perceptibly 
lighter; the stores vanish like wild-fire. I never see my 
imp of a cook but something is 4 cadan ’ (no more); it 
is fearful work, and I get but little out of the ruffians 
to compensate for it. We have so far had more 
than a sufficiency of everything, but, owing to the 
extravagance of the Hottentots, who have no thought 
for the future, I foresee hard times coming, and must 
take my share in the scarcity. Coffee and tea with¬ 
out milk or sugar, meat, mutton and game of all sorts 
without bread or bread-stuff, not even rice, mealies, 
or Kaffir corn, is the fare I have to look forward to, 
and I cannot prevent it; but we shall not starve 
altogether as long as powder and lead hold out, and 
one nag is capable of exertion. I have no thought 



of returning till I have got a goodly lot of teeth 

I am sorry now that I was induced to change my 
route, as Kleinboy told me Swartz lost twenty-four , 
oxen last year, after crossing the river Guia, by a 
small poisonous bush, with which all the country 
is covered, and which the oxen eat voraciously; 
but whether the rascal lies or not I cannot say. We 
have been bearing too much to the west the last few 
days to please me, but, immediately on crossing this 
vast pan, which I hope to do in two days, I shall hold 
north towards the country of Sekeletu. 

29 th. — Since writing up the journal last, we have 
been coming NW. and lately NE. We were at one 
time all but done for want of water. We had pressed 
into the service a Masara woman, to show us the 
water, necessity having no law; and, though she 
stepped out in good style before the wagons for 
hours and hours without intermission, she at last, at 
the end of the third day, acknowledged she was lost. 
She said she only recollected to have been at the 
fountain once before, and that was when she was a 
child. She was delighted with a present of beads 
and a handkerchief, and last not least in her estima¬ 
tion, as much dried meat as she could stagger 
under. In this emergency I saddled up to try and 
capture another. We are obliged to go about it very 
cautiously ; no shots fired, no whip cracking, for fear 
of alarming any chance straggler. When first 
sighted the men generally run, and the women hide 



until they fancy you have seen them, when they 
leave everything they may have and run as game as 
a fox, doubling, turning, and twisting until our 
admirably-trained horses’ noses are alongside their 
ears over their shoulders, when they first give in and 
supplicate for their lives ; but on finding they are not 
going to be hurt they generally follow readily through 
fear, which, however, soon wears off on better ac¬ 
quaintance. On arriving at camp they are set down 
to lots of flesh, and they soon make themselves at 
home, and rarely attempt running away again. We 
succeeded in getting another Masara to supply the 
woman’s place; he brought us somewhere near a 
fountain, but having only been there once before, he 
also got astray in his reckoning, and on the afternoon 
of the fourth day said he was totally at a loss where 
the fountain lay. Boy and Baffeta saddled up to go in 
quest: I had had a severe kick on the calf of the leg 
in the morning from an ox, which disabled me from 
riding or walking. To our great joy, Boy found the 
fountain very cleverly several miles farther off, and 
after refreshing himself and his steed he brought us 
the joyful tidings, and though it was quite dark before 
we arrived, his instinct took us straight to the place. 
It was impossible that the oxen could have held out 
much longer ; a few were quite exhausted. It proved 
to be delicious water, and more than enough of it 
for all; here we stayed three days, to refresh the oxen, 
and look up Masaras or Bushmen to show us the way 
to more water, being determined not to leave our 



lovely fountain till we had some idea of the direction 
in which we were likely to find more. One morning, 
just before daylight, we heard a lion coming slowly 
to the water with his low, subdued kind of mur¬ 
muring, and, ere I could get ready, Kleinboy and 
January, the foremost at every game, good and bad, 
had sneaked down with their guns to wish him good 
morning. They found him drinking, and missed him 
with three barrels, and I was just in time to see him 
scouring across the open. We had a long ride the 
following day in quest of Masaras, and at length Boy’s 
sharp eyes spied a kraal a long way off, and we 
galloped our utmost to surround and cut off the 
retreat of the inmates, and nearly frightened to 
death an old man and a parcel of children; the 
able-bodied men were hunting. We shot them 
three springbuck and two quaggas, and we found 
plenty of splendid water, and returned to the wagon 
pleased with our success, as we could not have moved 
without guides, and the Masaras fly like chaff before 
the wind from the sound of a gun, the crack of a 
whip, or any appearance of a white man. 

I am now going to give you a short description of 
a day’s sport amongst the elephants, which we came 
to at last, going hungry and very cold for two days 
and nights, as a sort of preliminary. 

We started early to a vley to see if the elephants 
had drunk, and took up the spoor of the day 
previous. As they had not been that night, the 
Bushmen, eight in number, followed it beautifully 



until about 1 A.M., when they got on spoor only a few 
hours old; the scent freshened wonderfully, and the 
Bushmen hunted to perfection, their captain taking 
the lead throughout, and being infinitely the best 
man I ever saw. At last, the pace increased to a run, 
and we took our guns from the hands of the carriers, 
the spoor leading us out of the bush to the open veldt. 
Here we had a short check. At length, the captain 
took up the running again at a killing pace, stopped 
suddenly, and pointed the elephants out to us. They 
almost immediately took the alarm, five cows and two 
calves, and crashed away. We rode between them 
and the bush to keep them in the open, and my horse 
and boys being much alarmed; we came alongside 
and fired, Boy first, from a long way behind, at the 
largest cow, which he missed. I waited long for a 
favourable opportunity, and at about forty yards off, as 
they stopped and turned, wanting to make the bush, 
I bagged a brace of cows right and left, both falling 
to the shot like rabbits. One fell stone dead ; the 
other, with her shoulder smashed, got up, went about 
fifty yards, and died. Seeing she was mine, I left her, 
and dropped a third dead with the first bullet. 
Alington shot one dead also between the ear and eye, 
and they lay touching one another; the last, a small 
worthless cow, took half a dozen bullets to give her 
her quietus. Seeing spoor of much larger elephants, 
Boy and Baffeta followed it, and I soon heard firing 
in their direction. I galloped off, heard a crack in 
the mapani trees, and saw two cows and a large bull, 



and a great cow without teeth, keeping always 
outside, carrying her head high, and as wicked and 
' savage as she could well be. The bush was very 
good, a moderate breeze of wind, which I kept always 
below, but I had great difficulty in getting the bull out 
from the company of the 6 carl kop ’ (naked head). 
At last I went right at him, shouting lustily, and he 
bore away by himself, and I shot him dead in two 
bullets, both in the right place, at very short dis¬ 
tances. I heard Baffeta close at hand hallooing for 
help ; he had a large cow at bay, and his bullet was 
fast. I disabled her the first shot, breaking her 
shoulder-blade. Boy still kept firing, and at length 
he made his appearance with a bull’s tail in his belt. 
Thus we bagged eight in about half an hour. A few 
clumps of giraffe, a troop of tsessebe or buffalo, 
or a white rhinoceros occasionally crossing our path, 
with a small lot of gemsbok and a few quaggas, we 
did not deem worthy of notice. After losing our¬ 
selves, and a very unpleasant ride in the hack-thorns 
in the dark, tearing ourselves considerably, we got 
back to the wagons again after midnight. Alington 
unfortunately burst his gun, lost his hat, pocket- 
handkerchief, and ramrod ; Baffeta also lost his hat, 
but it was very exciting work. 

I hear that Swartz is only two days from here, 
and that there are a lot of Mosilikatse’s Kaffirs with 
him, to prevent his hunting in Mosilikatse’s country. 
Perhaps he will serve me the same. I am anxious 
to be off, and am only waiting for the teeth, which 



I expect to-night, having despatched yesterday 
about two dozen Kaffirs with axes to cut them out. 
Elephants are very scarce this year, and bad to find, 
or else I doubt not but we should give a pretty 
good account of them; my oxen are still fresh and 
well, only poor old Freeman must be left behind to 
die, as he is utterly exhausted from age and poor 
condition. All the party are in good health and 
spirits, and looking forward to having good sport 
about the Guia river. 

July 3rd .—We have heard so many contradictory 
reports lately that I have been quite at a loss what 
to do. The Masaras say that Swartz’s wagons, and 
two others just arrived, are in charge of Mosilikatse’s 
people, who will not give them leave to hunt at 
any price; and he is only waiting for the first rains 
to send them back to Merico. What foundation 
there is for these reports I cannot say, but it is 
certain that there are very few elephants here this 
year, and I have resolved to go in search of them 
elsewhere, and began to retrace my spoor yesterday, 
after having ridden to every vley and ascertained 
that the elephants had changed their quarters. The 
want of water presents an insuperable barrier to our 
further progress due north. The bush is also very 
thick, and the sand-hills very heavy. I am now 
going due west for two or three days, where the 
Masaras tell me that we shall fall in with more salt 
pans and large vleys of water where elephants drink, 
and there is a chance of getting, at all events, one 
battue at them. 



I have been rewarded for the great precautions I 
took to get well-seasoned wood for my wagons in 
Natal, for they hold together admirably. The wagons 
built at Natal are not usually considered good, as the 
climate there is so moist that wood never becomes 
thoroughly seasoned, and in the dry air of the interior 
they are very apt to fall to pieces ; even an old sea¬ 
soned gun-stock will shrink, and the fittings become 
too large. A whole troop of Maccalacas, and who are 
now loaded to the ground with meat, intend taking 
themselves back to-morrow, and have been endea¬ 
vouring to persuade the Masaras not to show us any 
more water. The latter are starving with hunger, and 
are only too glad of the chance of going with us, so 
that good comes out of evil. I watched by the fountain 
last night to try and shoot a rhinoceros for them, but 
it was so intensely cold I could not endure it. 
Several hyenas came very close, and looked in at 
me within six or seven yards. I was sorely tempted 
to shoot, and should have done so, but my gun was 
in the holster. A lot of quaggas and zebras came 
from below wind and galloped off, much alarmed; 
the old patriarch, however, was not so easily fright¬ 
ened, and came to make himself sure of the danger, 
when I put a bullet through him at about sixty 
yards, killing him on the spot. I then made for the 
wagons as fast as legs could carry me, fairly starved 
out. The Masaras went down to keep off the wolves, 
jackals, and hyenas, taking plenty of fire with them. 
This morning I had the mortification to hear that two 
white rhinoceros came immediately after I had left. 



JSTot being able to take the latitude and longitude, 
I do not know where we are, but, judging from the 
inquiries I have made as to the distance from other 
places, I should say we were about 19° S. and 25° E. 

9 th .—No elephants yet. The Masaras will not tell 
us where to find them, or show us the water, or any¬ 
thing, having been threatened by Sicomo, their master, 
with death if they give the least assistance to any 
hunters. We are now outspanned by a stone foun¬ 
tain, and have had a regular morning’s quarrying with 
picks and heavy stones, hurled with all our might to 
break up the rocks under which the spring is, and 
we have succeeded so well that I think most of the 
oxen will be able to get a little, which will be of in¬ 
estimable service to them, as the country is very 
heavy, and the grass dry; we have a long day’s trek 
without a drop before us, and the weather in the 
day-time is intensely hot. 

Denny, a remarkably fine mare, has fallen into a 
hopo or pit-fall of the Kaffirs, and got staked. We 
got her out immediately, extracted the stake, and I 
sewed up the wound, made and buckled a circingle 
very tightly round the body, and kept up a constant 
fomentation to reduce the inflammation, all to no 
purpose ; she died in great agony a few hours after¬ 
wards ; her groans, poor thing, were heartrending. I 
gave 45 guineas for her two months ago ; but, luckily 
thinking her too big, exchanged her with Alington 
for the hunt, so that, though the loss ultimately falls 
on me, it has not inconvenienced me much, for the 



present. The country is almost devoid of game of 
any value, zebras and blue wildebeests being the only 
varieties. I shot an old bull giraffe three days ago, 
about the last of his race in these parts. 

Kleinboy and old Tebe each found a tooth yester¬ 
day near an old Kaffir State, where we outspanned; 
one in a tree, the other buried. The former is a very 
fine one, about 7 0 lbs. or more, and in excellent pre¬ 
servation, having only been killed very lately. We 
have come to some Masaras to-day, who, though old 
in years, never saw sheep before, and expressed great 
wonder at their tameness; one old woman followed 
them about for more than an hour. There is not one 
of my party, unfortunately, who can understand them, 
so that we can glean no intelligence or information of 
them. We have two Masaras who have undertaken 
to show us elephants for a consideration, which is to 
be forthcoming when their part of the agreement is 
fulfilled, and we are now on our way to the vley at 
which they say they drink, and were never yet 
hunted ; but now I am in fear and tribulation of 
falling in with the tsetse, which will kill all our horses 
and oxen, and leave us in a pretty fix. 

Yltli .—It may be the 24th for what I know, but 
it is Sunday ; our timekeeper, Woodcock, is asleep, 
having been watching by the fountain all night with 
the utmost patience, but nothing came except wolves, 
and quaggas, and Masaras. All is as usual, but we 
have been fortunate enough to find elephants once 
more, and, considering the fearful hack-thorn bush 




in which we found them, and a mistake in not 
having the dogs fast, we gave a pretty fair account of 
them — three bulls, mine a very large one, with teeth 
at least 70 lbs. each. We treked three days to the 
fountain at which they were said to drink, out- 
spanned below the wind, at least 1,000 yards off, 
and kept all quiet, and to our joy they came, and we 
heard them screaming and drinking for a long time. 

We had a hasty cup of coffee at daybreak, and 
took the spoor from the water and followed it for 
about three hours through dense hack-thorns. The 
ground was very hard, and the spoorers were often 
thrown out. At last, I heard old Gyp far ahead, 
fighting with one. We took our guns from the 
Masaras and made the best of our way thither. Gyp 
brought him right back to the men on foot, and they 
gave him four barrels as he went broadside past; I 
then got alongside and gave him two good shots, 
both vital, when he stood at bay and we finished him 
with a volley. I then heard another shot ahead, and 
made what speed I could in that direction, when 
I shortly came on a fine old bull, with ]ong heavy 
teeth, coming from the shot. I struck him just 
behind the shoulder, when he immediately charged 
at a tremendous pace. I had to ride hard always 
below wind, and seek the best path I could, 
and very small time was allowed me for con¬ 
sideration. He kept up the chase fully 500 yards. 
I rode in a half circle, and at length he stopped 
suddenly, greatly to my satisfaction, and immediately 



crashed through the thickest of the bush in an op¬ 
posite direction. Fearful of losing him, I dashed 
after him, though I had no time to reload. When 
he found this was the case, he turned, elevating his 
enormous fanlike ears, and I expected every moment 
another desperate charge, as I was not more than 
thirty-live yards from him. My horse behaved well, 
and I reloaded, when he again made off. I followed, 
and gave him two more good shots; I would not lire 
till he gave me a good chance, and I saw he was 
mine, as the blood flowed from his trunk, and all 
charging was taken out of him ; still it took me some 
nine more bullets to finish him. Alington came up 
shortly and helped me. Baffeta killed a young bull 
in six shots. Boy never saw one at all, and was in a 
great taking about the dogs not having been made 
fast, as he said, 4 Who knows what beautiful teeth they 
drove away P ’ I shot a line cow roan antelope the 
other night, watching a fountain — a most agreeable 
surprise, as in the uncertain light I took it to be a 
blue wildebeest. We are within a few hours of the 
river Tamalakarni, which runs from Sebituane’s into 
the Zouga, two days east of the Great Lake, and I 
think we are at about an equal distance from the Lake 
and from Sebituane’s, somewhere about Mababe. I 
hear that farther on, at Tamalakarni, we shall find 
leches and nakong, the only buck in Africa I have not 
shot, and whose acquaintance I long to make. 

19 ih .—Our poor horses had the saddles on their 
backs the whole of yesterday, from before sunrise 



till sunset. We rode a weary way, and I had given 
up all hopes of elephants, when January hit off 
the fresh spoor of two old bulls in the middle of 
very dense bush, followed it up fast and well, and 
in ten minutes he gave signs that he saw them. I 
made all speed towards him, when I saw a large bull 
standing under a tree with ears erected ; just then a 
Kaffir gave him a shot, grazing his trunk, and, as he 
turned to make off, I was ready, and gave him an ex¬ 
cellent shot through the lungs. He bore away very 
fast, and the bush was so thick that it was as much 
as I could do to keep him in sight; he had gone 
about 400 yards, when he stood, just as I was about 
to fire again. I perceived him staggering, and my 
second bullet took him in the very act of falling. 
His teeth were very good, 7 0 lbs. each. The rest of 
the party rode hard, but never saw his companion, 
though we found his spoor shortly after, but he got 
away free. I wanted to reach the river, but the Masa- 
ras said it was too far, and they should die of thirst 
before they came there, and so, very unwillingly, we 
rode back to the wagons, as we had our blankets, 
salt, and all prepared for our bivouacking. 

22 nd .—I am all alone at the wagon, the rest of 
the party being dispersed in every direction, some 
trying to get and hold the spoor of my horse, Beads¬ 
man, which has strayed away with a brute of 
Sicomo’s, and has not since been heard of; some 
seeking elephant spoor; three are gone to draw 
water some ten miles in a sledge which I made 



yesterday, as the elephants stand so far off 
from the water that it is impossible to get back 
the same day, and the want of water plays more 
mischief with the horses than several days under the 
saddle. I have therefore come on with one wagon 
ten miles nearer to their standing-place, and left the 
other two, and all the oxen, at the old place near the 
stone fountain. It is now the depth of winter, and 
the grass is as dry as old tinder, without .the slightest 
nourishment in it. As a natural consequence, the oxen 
are as lean as rakes, and, worst of all, the mealies 
and Kaffir corn are finished, and no more is to be 
had at any price, so that we cannot long hold out 
under these circumstances. I grieve much for the 
poor willing horses, thirteen or fourteen hours under 
the saddle, at foot’s pace, in a broiling sun three- 
fourths of the time, then tied up to the wagon without 
food, and stinted in their allowance of water, which 
we have to draw ten miles, at least, half the way 
through hack-thorns over a stony ground. These 
are amongst the hardships we must undergo to get 
elephants; they are dearly paid for, and we cannot 
even indulge in the luxury of a good wash, after a 
fearful day’s toil and dust. 

We set off, a strong muster, two days ago, to hunt 
part of the forest in which the elephants stand, and 
had not gone 300 yards from the wagon when 
January hit off the fresh spoor of an old bull, 
followed it ten times better than the best blood¬ 
hound over all kinds of country, hard and soft, lots of 



open plains, and dense 6 vac nm bechis,’ at a rattling 
pace, without an instant’s check, hour after hour, ex¬ 
pecting every minute to come on him, and cantering 
on to the rises, hoping to see him in the open before 
us. At length, January picked up another bull, and 
they joined company, still holding right away. At 
last we saw them far ahead, two old bulls; they 
almost immediately got our wind and took right 
away. We should never have seen them, only, luckily, 
the bush was thin. It was a headlong race who 
should get them, and Raffeta and myself had the 
honour, my horse having the heels of all, very closely 
followed by old President, who is the gamest old 
horse I ever possessed. We each took one, and 
Alington and I slew mine quickly, and then we went 
to the assistance of Raffeta and Boy, who had done 
little towards giving theirs his quietus. The horses 
would not stand, and the elephant ran so hard 
that we were some time in settling him. The top of 
my powder-flask came off, and the powder was all 
loose in my pocket, and I loaded haphazard by 
the handful of fine powder. I gave him the final 
shot, with, I should say, about twelve drachms of 
powder, and down came the elephant with a des¬ 
perate crash, his near shoulder-blade smashed to 
atoms. The excitement was so great that I did not 
feel the gun recoil in the least, though afterwards 
I found my fore finger half broken and my right 
cheek covered with blood. My bull charged con¬ 
stantly, and I kept galloping round in small circles, 



letting him come very near when he looked inclined 
to give up the chase; thus, with faint hopes of eventu¬ 
ally catching me, he exhausted himself, and fell an 
easy prey. This cannot always be done, however, 
but the bush in which we got them was very light, 
and well adapted for the fun. Both elephants had 
very fine teeth, 250 lbs., at least, in all. Kow came 
the tug of war, getting back again. I lent Woodcock 
my horse, and, feeling in high spirits and good con¬ 
dition, took to walking for eight or ten miles, when 
Alington gave him a lift; the footmen were dead beat, 
Baffler knocked up, and fell down dizzy and done. 
Woodcock struggled on manfully to within 1,000 
yards of the wagon, when Alington again lent him his 
horse. January, one of Pharaoh’s lean kine, was out 
and out the freshest man of the party. We straggled 
back by ones and twos soon after dark, but should 
never have found the wagons had it not been for the 
wonderful instinct of January, who is the finest hand 
at a spoor I ever heard or even read of. On reach¬ 
ing the wagons we fired signal-shots to bring up the 

Yesterday, when I walked to the wagons and made 
the sledge, I heard seven bulls had drunk the evening 
we left. We saw a troop of giraffes and a few ostriches 
and elands, but there is no other game in these forests. 
I saw four rhinoceros drinking at the fountain the 
other night, but, fearful of disturbing any elephants, 
would not shoot. We have lived on elephants’ hearts 
lately, which are really good, but I begin to long once 



more for a fat giraffe, or some more curried guinea- 
fowls— a little lighter food, this warm weather, than 
the mighty monarchs of the forest. 

ols£ [Sunday). — Nothing but disappointment to 
log up. First and foremost, we entirely mistook 
our whereabouts: after a hard day’s trek through 
dense bush, at length the long wished-for river 
dawned on our sight; it certainly was most refresh¬ 
ing and beautiful, but it proved to be the wrong 
one — my old friend the Zouga once more, which 
I foreswore last year for ever, on account of the 
great scarcity of game, the quantity of hunters, 
Kaffirs, and last, not least, the sickness. It was a sore 
disappointment to me, and here we have been a week. 
We have not been idle, however, as I have painted 
two wagons, which had suffered much from the 
drought, and Baffler has put two new axletrees into 
the old one, and we have had a busy time of it. 

I never saw anything like the number of pheasants 
here ; thirty brace would be a bad day’s sport for one 
gun, but our shot will not allow of more than 
enough for our daily wants. The wolves and tigers 
have been annoying us, the former eating up neck- 
straps and the oxen’s gear. Last night, hearing tigers, 
I set a gun for them within fifty yards of the fire, and 
had only just supped when bang it went. I ordered 
the dogs to be loosed, and we had a most exciting chase 
in the dark, the Kaffirs carrying lighted sticks, and 
setting fire to the grass as we went on. Gyp, my old 
favourite, soon brought the brute to bay, and we 



hastened to her assistance, thinking it was certainly a 
tiger, but it turned out to be a hyena, and, with the 
help of torches to see by, we shot him ; his face was 
shattered with shot about the upper jaw, nose, and 
eyes. I am going to send one wagon to the Lake, 
as it is so near, and shall hunt along the Tama- 
lakarni as far as Mababe, if there is any sign of 
elephants, and my present intention is, as soon as 
the rains come so as to make the road practicable, 
to trek across to Mosilikatse and try to obtain leave 
from him to hunt next year. I am now convinced 
his is the only country worth a man’s while to 
come in so far. 

August hth [Friday). — On Tuesday we followed 
the fresh spoor of a large herd of elephants for 
nine good hours, and at length most reluctantly, on 
my part, gave them up. We had only two hours’ 
sun left, and they still going away into thirst-land; the 
sun was burning, and we had not a drop of water 
except what the Kaffirs carried, which they drank 
out themselves, the last of them being dead knocked 
up. We had a fearful ride back again on jaded, 
hungry, and thirsty horses, in a bitter cold night, 
and we made the wagon about 10 p.m. Kleinboy 
brought us back straight as an arrow, and we had 
a little moon to help us. Since then I have been 
completely bewildered with the most contradictory 
reports ever heard, one man asserting most positively 
that tsetse abounded a day a-head, that it was certain 
death to horse, dog, and ox, to go even for a single 



night, and that, farther on, the Tamalarke, or rather 
Tamalakarni, was pure tsetse: he had come far out 
of his way to warn us for the last time, and now 
the fault must rest on our own heads. In this 
dilemma I had almost decided to trek back at once, 
as the man spoke so fairly and so freely that I be¬ 
lieved very word. 

He had hardly gone, when two Masaras came, 
proving conclusively that there were elephants a-head, 
saying that both bulls and cows had drunk that night 
about four hours higher up the river, that it was quite 
untrue about the fly, that they knew their standing- 
place, and that we should certainly find them not later 
than 1 or 2 p.m. if we started at daylight. I lost no 
time, inspanned one wagon, and reached the Masara 
State a little after dusk, and yesterday we took the 
spoor from the water. We were off at daylight, found 
them, bagged four, and one white rhinoceros, and 
got back to the wagons, horses all dead beat. I shot 
the rhinoceros through and through, a thing that I 
have once heard of, but never saw done before. 

The same day, I fell in with another large cow with¬ 
out teeth, which charged me most desperately and kept 
up the chase for an incredible distance in the open, at 
a pace that on myjacled nag was anything but pleasant. 
I then made for the bush, but could not throw her 
out, or get rid of her in any way. At last, I lost 
all patience and gave her a bullet, which made her 
scream again, and turn and blow in every direction; 
at last, she took herself off. I was never so glad to see 



the back of anything in my life, as it was very danger¬ 
ous work on account of the number of holes, and the 
exhausted state of poor Beadsman. Kleinboy and 
I shortly after came across three more, and got very 
near before they were aware, but a cow stood 
between us and the only one worth shooting, and we 
had a long chase ere we got a shot. My second 
barrel staggered him, and in fifty yards he fell, rising 
again, however, directly; but thinking Boy would 
now not have much trouble with him, and Beadsman 
being quite done, I left him to finish him. I heard 
so many shots, that I thought he must have found 
another troop, but on comparing notes at night over 
our camp fire, I learned they were all at this same one, 
which got away after all. So ended a fairish day’s sport. 

Lechulatebe sent messengers desiring me to 
come up, or send him tea, coffee, sugar, powder, 
lead, and a horse, saying there had been no 
wagons there for a long time, and his State had 
been burned down and all his stores destroyed. 
I shall send to-morrow in boats what he asks for, 
except the powder, and my people have instructions 
to get as much out of him as possible; but he is a 
niggardly dog, and is accustomed to buy things cheap 
that come from Walvish Bay. 

9 th. — I am left all alone at the wagons, the 
rest of the party having gone, some in boats and 
some on foot, to Lechulatebe’s, at Lake Ngami. I 
have made a last effort to buy corn from him for 
our poor exhausted nags, and am afraid that I shall 



have but a dull time of it during their absence, as 
there is no game whatever here of any sort. I 
was obliged to kill an ox last week ; and were it not 
for my little pet Juno, I should often come short of 
both breakfast and dinner — the only two meals we 
ever indulge in. I have just returned from a long 
ramble amongst the thorns after the smaller bustard, 
which we call here bush koran. They are most deli¬ 
cious birds, from three to five pounds weight, and real 
game in their habits. The grass is quite white, and 
so dry that it crumbles into dust in your hand, and the 
ground is all cracked with the intense heat of the sun, 
so that you would say there could not be a particle 
of scent; still Juno footed up three bustards to ad¬ 
miration to-day. They are very difficult birds to put 
up ; they run like landrails, but, Juno once on the 
spoor, no dodge or device whatever avails them, turn 
and twist as they like ; she never requires either 
checking or encouraging, but is as near perfection as 
possible. I bagged all. These bustards will often run 
more than half a mile. I have shot large ones 
weighing over fifty-four pounds ; and a medium size 
also, from fifteen to thirty pounds ; geese, ducks, and 
every description of water-fowl, guinea-fowls, par¬ 
tridges, pheasants, snipe, and clikkop—a bird about 
the size and plumage of a curlew, with a short bill, 
also excellent eating. We can always get one sort or 
another, so that our bill of fare presents a tolerable 
variety, and anything much better than guinea-fowl, 
roast or curried, and buffalo tongue, it would not be 


easy to imagine. The word 4 sar ’ sets Juno off like 
a greyhound, and she rushes headlong into the 
middle of them, while I run and fire at any dis¬ 
tance to break them. When this is accomplished, Juno 
returns and stands them one after another as steady 
as old Time, and I can go on killing till a Kaffir can 
carry no more. 

10 th .— I saw a troop of old bull buffaloes in thin 
hack-thorns, where there was no shelter in case of a 
charge. I took a circle, however, and came at them 
from below the wind, two only standing, and eight 
lying; they were very bare ; I got within eighty yards, 
and one bull stood well and I took a steady pot, 
hearing the bullet clap beautifully, but it was 
Alington’s rifle, and, to judge from the report and 
recoil, must have had only half a charge in. They 
all tore away, and I should have given him up, had 
not Juno taken the blood-spoor, and I heard her 
baying him 300 or 400 yards a.-head, and when I 
got up he was just expiring, the bullet in the exact 
place and right direction. This will save one nag a 
hard day’s work, as otherwise I must have gone to 
shoot an eland or giraffe, for I have to support daily 
eighteen hungry men. I could, had I been so 
disposed, have killed four or five brace of pheasants, 
thus making rather a good morning’s work of it. I 
have nothing to amuse myself with but a pile of 
Illustrated News , the latest bearing date 1856, but 
most of them 1854. 

13 th. — I never saw such a country as this is for 



losses ; you cannot reckon on anything, and live stock 
is most precarious property. I lost two valuable 
oxen yesterday in pit-falls, both breaking their necks 
as they were going to the river to drink; if it had 
happened to a Boer, he would have taken two Masara 
children in their stead, as we had told the Masaras to 
open all their pit-falls and traps during our stay, and 
they had neglected to do so. Old Tebe has been 
fortunate enough to buy nearly two sacks of Kaffir 
corn, so that in case of more elephants we shall still 
get a little more work out of our used-up nags. 

I went out this morning to solve a riddle which 
has been puzzling me all night. Two Makubas 
punted me several miles up the river last night by 
moonlight, to lie in wait for a rhinoceros as he came to 
drink, and, while doing so, we heard game splashing 
and drinking below us ; the Makubas said it was 
elephants, and we punted noiselessly and swiftly down 
to them. Just as the boat glided by a fallen tree lying 
in the water, I was ready, and had a snap shot at two 
things as they dashed madly out. I could distinctly 
see something very white about their heads, which I 
took for teeth, but in point of size, speed, and all 
other respects, they were much more like buffaloes. 
The bush was very dense to the water’s edge, and as 
it was bitterly cold I took a paddle and we went 
right merrily back, assisted by a strong stream. This 
morning, however, I could find no signs of any blood- 
spoor from last night’s shot, so I took up the spoor 
of buffaloes from the water some three or four miles, 



and at last I saw an old bull buffalo 200 yards ahead, 
and crept in on him, when I saw three more, and 
Gyp, who had got their wind, going right on to them. 
I saw not an instant was to be lost, and ran towards 
them, when away they went a good 100 yards a-head 
of me. I drew up, took the outsider, and saw him 
instantly give to the bullet and fall into the rear, and 
Gyp brought him to bay in 500 yards in a nasty very 
open place. Now I knew I must kill him, or he would 
do the same good office for me; and whilst his atten¬ 
tion was taken up with Gyp, I commenced a cautious 
stalk, but he saved me a good deal of unnecessary 
trouble by falling dead before I had gone fifty yards, 
the ball just below his hip, and driven right forwards 
through the lungs. This fellow solved the riddle: it 
was an old bull, without a hair on any part of his 
head or face, consequently, he was a blueish-white 
colour, as lean as an old crow, and about as good 
eating, I should say. I got back to a first-rate 
curried bustard, and feel happy and content with 
myself and all mankind. 

Sept. 24 .—Great Namesa .— Since logging up last, 
great changes have taken place in the establishment. 
I have been up to the Great Lake, sold one wagon, 
beads, copper, tea, sugar, coffee, soap, and clothes, and 
with the proceeds have nearly loaded up a second 
wagon with some splendid teeth. Two more deaths 
have occurred amongst the stock; the rest, notwith¬ 
standing the drought, have improved considerably in 



All my Kaffirs that I brought from Natal have bolted, 
together with two others of Alington’s and Wood¬ 
cock’s. The merits of the case are as follows : the 
road was frightfully heavy, and wagons were loaded 
up to the roof with Kaffir traps, utterly valueless 
rubbish, which it is almost impossible to get rid of, 
as one or other Kaffir is sure to pick it up, and stow 
it away somewhere snug. To remedy this, I gave 
them the use of a pack-ox and saddle to carry all their 
traps. The third day, unknown to me, the unfeeling 
ruffians let the poor brute graze about for half a day 
in a broiling sun without unloading him. I was very 
angry, and told one, Mick, who had nothing in the 
world to do (for I had too many hands), that he must 
carry his own things himself. The next day I found 
all their traps, old tents, and sacks that I had thrown 
away long before, stowed in the wagon, so I resolved 
to make a general clearance, and, being close to the 
river, hurled buck and sheepskins, tents, sacks, 
rubbish, and two of their blankets, into the river. 
They immediately came to me in a body and said 
they were going to leave me, and off they started; 
and their two companions followed them after dusk, 
the immaculate Umlenzi, Woodcock’s servant, who 
was supposed to be unable to do wrong, walking off 
with his master’s double-barrelled gun. The five 
Totties and old Tebe stuck to me, and I am put to 
very little inconvenience so far : in fact, at present, it 
is rather a relief than otherwise to be rid of them. 
The weather has threatened rain, and some must have 



fallen in front, I think, as there is not a sign of an 
elephant left along the river ; and I fear we shall 
find no more now. Nothing but food has been 
shot since I last wrote—some score or more, I think. 
My share has been five buffaloes, an eland, two 
steinbuck, and a quagga. 

My two little Masara boys, well matched in every 
way, sharp, handy little fellows, I have christened 
Ngami and Meercat, and, so far from having at 
all the character of slavery, it is an act of positive 
Christian charity to barter one when brought to the 
wagon, as they are poor little emaciated things, just 
getting enough roots, reeds, and unwholesome food, 
to keep skin and bone together. They are conse¬ 
quently all head and stomach, lantern-jawed, hollow- 
eyed, gaunt and famished, and all look prematurely 
old; but the clear water of the Zouga, and whole¬ 
some diet, though it is flesh, without a change for 
months and months, work a miracle in their appear¬ 
ance. Their appetite is tremendous, and I have 
had to check the young dogs on two or three occa¬ 
sions from eating pieces of old shoe leather, worn-out 
rheims, and giraffe hide. 

Ngami, so called after the Lake, was a present to 
me from Lechulatebe, the chief. I asked him what 
present he was going to make me in return for the 
many he had received. He told me he had nothing. 
I said in joke, 6 Won’t you give me a Masara P ’ to 
which he replied, 6 Oh yes, I will send you one down, 
if that is all you want.’ Shortly after, Ngami made 




his appearance; he was starved and wretched, and 
understood none of us, but appeared vastly pleased 
with his change of quarters, and made himself quite 
at home directly. An uncle of the chief’s told 
me he had just such another, that I might have for 
some beads, so I sent for him also, as a companion 
for Ngami. A regular Bushman this was, and I 
christened him Meercat, from his resemblance to 
the animal, a kind of ocelot. He was as fine a little 
fellow as ever I saw when I last saw him at the 
house of a German missionary in Merico, Mr. Zim¬ 
merman, in whose care I left them both. 

In my ramblings over the deserts I have been 
witness to frightful scenes of misery among the 
Masaras, or wandering Bushmen. Once, I remember, 
I came across a very old emaciated woman, leading 
two little boys by the hand, about, I should guess, 
four and five years of age, subsisting on roots, 
berries, land tortoises, bitter melons, and anything 
they could find, without a vestige of clothing or ha¬ 
bitation of any sort. I told my fellows to bring them 
to the wagon, but she would not come, and I never 
saw or heard more of them. There is little doubt as 
to their fate : nothing but starvation awaited them. 

Sept 30.— My Kaffirs have all returned to their 
duty, and expressed great contrition for their conduct. 
Baffeta’s* three girls have run away, and no more has 

* Raffeta was a Bastard, a head man in his own tribe, an 
experienced elephant-hunter in these parts, who accompanied 
me to hunt and shoot on halves. He had lots of friends, as 



been heard of them. My two urchins, mere brats of 
five and six years old, came home by themselves, 
some fifteen miles, at least. I had quite given them 
up, as they were with the three girls, and congratu¬ 
lated myself on my good fortune, which I attribute 
to the good treatment the youngsters have always 
received from me, as I have become very fond of 
them, and they have acquitted themselves admirably 
lately in retrieving ducks. 

I have had a return of my old complaint, fever 
and ague, and been quite prostrated for the last six 
days with racking headaches, pains in the back and 
limbs, loss of appetite, great nausea, profuse perspira¬ 
tions, and all the usual concomitants, but having the 
most approved remedies at hand, I am now already 
very much better, and hope to take the field again 
in a few days. 

We continue to keep up amongst us a constant 
supply of flesh meat, springbuck, buffalo, quagga, 
and leche, not forgetting to mention two fine 
cock ostriches. I pottered round with Juno and 
killed a heap of ducks and a few guinea-fowls, and 
the Kaffirs kill a fair share of pheasants with their 
knobkerries. The weather constantly threatens 
rain, and is very hot. An old bull buffalo caused me 
a little alarm to-day. I was sauntering along the 

he was a good gunsmith, and very handy at doing odd jobs, 
and they made him presents of all kinds of things, and amongst 
others the three Masara girls above mentioned. I mention 
this circumstance, as, on my return to the colony, I was accused 
by one of the local newspapers of slave dealing. 



bank of the river, when I suddenly saw him lying 
asleep in a thicket close before me. Gyp and Juno, 
who were at my heels, immediately got his wind, 
and rushed into him. He sprang up, stood at bay 
for some time, then made a charge at the dogs, 
passed me, and went back to his own thicket. I had 
nothing but a small shot-gun, and shouted lustily to 
scare him; the dogs fought him manfully, but he 
would not budge. I had no shelter of any kind, and 
at length, after two minutes’ consideration, much to 
my relief, he trotted off with the dogs in attendance, 
looking back at me, poor things, as if to ask my 
reason for not shooting him. 

Oct. 3 rd. — Kerea .—We are now within a few 
hours of Chapeau; the weather is hot beyond all 
endurance, and the flies torment us sadly, succeeded 
at sunset by innumerable mosquitoes. Last night, I 
could not bear a rag over me, and the mosquitoes 
drove me raving mad, and will do the same to-night. 
The weather threatens rain, but it won’t come, which 
makes it so fearfully close and sultry. I have lost 
England, one of my after-oxen, in a pit-fall, and shall, 
I fear, feel the want of him very much. One wagon 
has stuck fast in soft places twice the last two days, 
and it was all that twenty oxen could do to drag her 

5^._The monotony of our journey was most 
agreeably broken yesterday by meeting a party 
of English, amongst whom were Mr. Palgrave and 
Mr. and Mrs. Thompson, who had come up from 



the Cape on a wedding-tour ; but as the wagons were 
going different ways, and drivers wbll not keep the 
oxen standing in the yoke and in the sun longer than 
can be avoided, very little time was allowed for ex¬ 
changing news. Alington, however, got a handsome 
supply of tobacco from Mr. Thompson, which was 
almost worth its weight in gold to him. They were 
on their way to the Great Lake, and from thence to 
Walvish Bay. I had unfortunately gone out hunting 
early, and the only one of the party whom I saw was 
Dr. Holden, a Lancashire man, from Burnley. 

What his object is I do not know ; he has two 
wffiite servant-men, and travels with every comfort. 
It is his intention to reach the Zambesi, if possible, 
and then trek down and join Moffat in Mosilikatse’s 
country. He will find his journey a difficult one ; he 
appears to be but little of a sportsman, and a know¬ 
ledge of horseflesh and oxflesh, especially the latter, is 
indispensable to success in an arduous undertaking 
such as the one he proposes. We spent a very 
pleasant evening together yesterday, and look for¬ 
ward to doing the same this evening. At daylight 
to-morrow I must again inspan, and say good-bye, 
never to meet again, in all probability. 

12th. — Bachukuru .—We are well over a good 
120 miles of our journey, having been highly 
favoured by moonlight nights, and, since leaving the 
river, cool evenings and mornings, and we cannot be 
too thankful for having seen the last of the mos¬ 
quitoes. We reached the first water at Nekohotsa, 



brackish, and in very small quantity; then, two 
hard days and nights on to Lotlokarni, where we 
found a sufficiency, and also enjoyed the society of 
two English missionaries, Mr. Helmore and his family, 
and Mr. and Mrs. Price, who are proceeding to Seke- 
letu’s, on the Chobe, and from thence, probably, to the 
Zambesi. Here we had a hard day’s work at the old 
wagon, which sadly needed repair. 

I killed one giraffe, just after leaving the river, 
Hr. Holden accompanying me, and two giraffe cows 
on Saturday. Mr. Helmore sent his wagon to bring one 
back that I gave him. I found him a very nice man, 
and I reluctantly accepted some preserved vegetables 
from him — the treat, after bread and beef alone for 
eight months, was too great to resist. This morning 
we made Matchevi, a small fountain in the desert, 
where we had delicious rain, but unfortunately it did 
not last long. We are now at Bachukuru, where 
we have at last succeeded in giving all the oxen 
water, every drop having to be drawn in a bucket, 
and poured into a stone basin, and two oxen brought 
at a time ; it just held out, and not a drop to spare. 

I missed having an excellent right-and-left shot at 
wild dogs this morning, owing to my after-rider being 
a long way behindhand with my gun. They were 
great big fellows, and trotted away as coolly as 
possible. Another ox, Charlie, has died of lung sick¬ 
ness, and three more that I left at Sechele’s, making 
thirteen lost in all. 

Another week will, T expect, see us at Sicomo’s, 



when our difficulties will be in a great measure over; 
a week more to Sechele’s, where the fresh oxen I left 
behind -— thirteen of which, I hear, are still there all 
right—will be of immense assistance to us in getting 
to Mooi Eiver Dorp. The roads here are frightfully 
heavy ; fourteen good oxen, pulling all together ad¬ 
mirably, can only just move on at the rate of barely 
two miles an hour. 

16th. — Cahalla .—Weary work : forty-eight hours 
without one drop of water, and the heaviest sand it 
is possible to conceive. The oxen fell in the yoke 
from sheer exhaustion, but all contrived eventually to 
get here, with the exception of two ; one is dead, and 
the other has just now made his appearance. The 
oxen were half mad from thirst, and there is not a 
drop of water here. I had to outspan them and 
send them on to Letloche, a fountain twelve or fifteen 
miles ahead, and, after drinking their fill, they must 
come back again to trek the wagons. I never saw 
such a sight as this place; there are twelve or fifteen 
holes here, and by every one sit several Maccalacas 
Kaffirs, watching and ladling out with tortoise-shells 
the last drop of sand and water, as soon as ever it 
rises half an inch. I reached here with the horses 
late last night, and they got abundance of water; the 
worst part of our journey is now over, and I think, 
by resting a few days at Letloche, we may reach 
Sechele’s, without help. We overtook, at Nkowani, 
four wagons belonging to Boers, the far-famed old 
hunters, John Viljoen and Pet Jacobs ; they had had 



a glorious hunt, had killed ninety-three elephants, 
and had ridden forward to Merico. They are 
hunters of great experience, and know where ele¬ 
phants are to be found. They came across them in 
great numbers, and got some splendid bulls, con¬ 
siderably north of my farthest point, where I was 
prevented from going by the positive assurance of all 
the Kaffirs, that I should not find a drop of water. 
The most mortifying part of it is that I was in 
the right direction, had surmounted almost all 
difficulties, and was within three or four days, 
at most, from their stronghold. They tell me 
that it is a splendid open country, with plenty of 
stone fountains, and that the elephants have never 
before been fired at, and are perfectly tame and in 
great numbers. I have no cause to complain, how¬ 
ever ; I must have nearly 5,000 lbs. of ivory in the 
two wagons, and some splendid teeth. I killed two 
eland cows yesterday, close to the wagon-road, after 
a long, very fast chevy; they both fell from exhaus¬ 
tion, without a shot, when I gave them a pill to pre¬ 
vent their rising. 

I am myself better and worse, sometimes able to 
take field, and at others sick, weak, and helpless ; 
altogether in a poor way. Some of us are obliged 
to be out constantly, as we have such an immense 
party to feed; we have been treking all night, the 
last three or four nights, and have done wonders. I 
have been too generous with my stores. The Boers 
had left all their drivers without coffee, tea, sugar, or 



meal, and I told them they might come and take a 
share with my fellows as long as the stores held out, 
and a few days have made an alarming diminution in 
their amount. 

19 th. — Letloche .—We had hard work to get here, 
but we have found abundance of water, and I in¬ 
tend remaining three days to refresh the worn-out 
oxen. One poor thing, Spearman, was unable to 
reach the water, and we were forced to leave him ; he 
came on in the night of his own accord, when a lion 
waylaid him and made a meal of him. He got off 
scathless, as I was still at Caballa, waiting the return 
of the oxen sent forward to drink. My horses, too, 
are completely knocked up, so we can shoot nothing, 
and I was never so badly off for food before in my 
life. My two favourite goats, that have followed like 
dogs for 1,500 miles at least, were condemned two 
nights ago, and one was butchered on the spot; the 
other has run away, but I expect to see him brought 
back every minute, to share the same fate. 

25 th. — Massouey .—I left Sicomo’s on the 22nd, 
where I could obtain nothing whatever in the shape 
of food from him or his people, though we were all 
terribly hungry. A German missionary, lately settled 
there, sent me a sheep and about half a bucketfull 
of meal; but there was nothing in the State, all were 
crying out on account of hunger. The corn is not 
yet in the ground. Everything is parched up from 
drought; there is no grass, and I never saw so little 
water in fountains where I have always before found 



abundance. I do not believe a drop of rain has fallen 
for the last ten months, but, from the threatening 
state of the weather, we expect it every day now. 
My favourite cow, Nelly, a splendid milker, died 
yesterday of lung sickness. Not being able to shoot 
or buy anything, I was forced to kill an ox on Sunday, 
as my Masara boys were positively crying for hunger. 
The day after, I killed two giraffes, and Kleinboy one ; 
and we might, had the roads and wagons not been 
so frightfully heavy, have laid in a stock of dried 
meat that would take us to Sechele’s. I hope to 
arrive there in about eight days, and do not care how 
soon, as we are entirely out of all the necessaries of 

Nov. 1st. — Lopepe .—We have at length had four 
successive days of glorious rain, putting our minds 
quite at ease as far as water is concerned ; but the 
cure is nearly as bad as the disease, as the bitter cold, 
always the case when rain falls, has killed two oxen 
outright, and the survivors are a spectacle. I have 
been here a week, and in bed four days of it, the 
change of weather bringing on a violent return of 
fever and ague. I tried to trek to-day, but found the 
roads in such a dreadful state that I was obliged to 
give it up. Stores have long since been at an end, 
and we are entirely dependent on our guns for our 
daily sustenance. I killed three giraffes out of a 
troop. It was very hard work, and I will never attempt 
it again ; my horse fell heavily with me once, which 
gave him, poor fellow, a good two or three miles 



additional gallop. Alington and Woodcock have 
brought three impalas or roybucks to the wagon, so 
that, so far, our larder has never been empty. 

I sent on two Kaffirs a week ago to Sechele’s, 
to bring the oxen I left in his brother’s charge, and 
expect their return in a couple of days. 

My Hottentots, without giving me a moment’s 
warning of their intention, all left me at night, at 
Massouey, for no reason, that I know of, but that food 
was at an end. It is a little harder work for us 
now, but I do not in the least despair of driving the 
wagons to Merico. I have purchased two oxen 
in place of the dead and done up, and, though 
unbroken, they now trek admirably. This rain will 
be of inestimable benefit to the whole country, and a 
plentiful harvest will, I hope and think, be the result. 
In case of a dry season, the Kaffirs have no resource 
but to seek a precarious existence in the bush, and 
many hundreds die of positive starvation. 

When food was so dreadfully scarce, Mr. Schroeder, 
one of the missionaries at Sechele’s, brought meal 
from Merico and made bread, giving each of the 
baptized Kaffirs a small loaf on Monday morning; 
they then went into the bush, and contrived with 
roots, berries, wild fruits, land tortoises, frogs, &c., 
nothing earthly coming amiss, to eke out a precarious 
existence, with the aid of the loaf, till the following 
Monday, when, if they contrived to exist, they got 
another. There is one poor woman following my 
wagons now from Mosilikatse’s country, saying it is 



her only chance of getting food, and she cares 
nothing as to where she goes, and tries, poor thing, 
to make herself useful in a small way, by lighting 
fires and bringing wood. 

I have had twenty Kaffirs from Sicomo’s, but eight 
of them have to-day turned back, as I could not 
attempt, when out of the hunting-ground, any longer 
to feed so many.. There is, of necessity, great waste 
in the food; the large game is killed so far from the 
wagons that it is impossible to bring half the meat, 
and the vultures pounce down on it immediately 
it is left; and then the wagons are so heavy, and the 
oxen so utterly worn out, that I will not load them 
with more than sufficient for the day, letting each 
day take care of itself. The Kaffirs eat like ogres, 
but at a pinch they can easily go three days without 

I once saw a clever mischievous Kaffir lad, named 
April, hide inside an elephant we had shot that day. 
He caught two vultures by the legs, as they were 
tearing away at the carcase, pulled the first inside, 
tied his legs, and shoved him forward into the vacant 
place where the Masaras had taken out the elephant’s 
heart, and then proceeded to capture his mate. 

The Kaffirs are very fond of all sorts of small birds 
to eat, and, when they succeed in capturing young 
ones just fledged, they generally pitch them on the 
fire alive. I was once outspanned near some dense 
reeds, on the Zouga, into which thousands of small 
reed birds came and went, in the evenings-and morn- 



ings, in great numbers. The first flight or two was 
the signal for everyone to turn out armed with sticks 
and kerries, in throwing which the Kaffirs are very 
expert, and I have seen five or six cut down with 
one stick, and some good bags made. There is also 
a kind of social crosbeak which build large commu¬ 
nities of overhanging nests, like purses, on tall trees. 
On outspanning for the night near these, my fellows, 
soon after sunset, tied a fire-stick to the end of the 
very long whip-stick ; the nests being dry as tinder 
caught fire at once, and the poor inmates fell down 
in numbers, half roasted. A couple of minutes’ more 
fire was all they required, and they were considered 
a dainty, being very fat. 

5 th [Sunday). — I am now within one hard 
day of Sechele’s, having got on by slow and easy 
stages so far, though we were disappointed in finding 
the water we expected. I met the oxen I sent for 
yesterday, but there are only nine instead of eighteen, 
and they are all as thin as whipping-posts ; most of 
the remainder are dead from starvation. 

I do not know what my Kaffirs would do, were it 
not for the opportune deaths of divers oxen, which, 
though so lean that they can scarcely hold together, 
still manage to support life in the bipeds. 

The days are so insufferably hot, we can do 
nothing but turn day into night, and do all our 
treking at night. A man that leads this life richly 
deserves every penny he makes, though the lazy, 
well-fed Boers,'who never leave home, are jealous 



and envious of our heavy loads of teeth, and the lots 
of money they bring us in the market. 

17^/l—I rested the oxen six days at Sechele’s, 
where grass and water were plentiful and good, and 
even so short a space of time has improved them 
much, and I am now at Lobatse, well on my way to 
Merico, where I expect to arrive to-morrow night. 
The old wagon has plagued me sadly ; she comes on 
creaking and groaning like a ship in a storm. I 
bought a muid of meal (180 lbs.) from a Boer whom 
I found trading oxen at Sechele’s, which lasted my 
ravenous retinue just eight days, and they are now 
crying out again from hunger : this is without taking 
into account three sheep, as well as fifteen or twenty 
gallons of amasi (thick sour milk), a very useful 
article, as it will make either cheese or butter. 

The German missionaries treated us most hospi¬ 
tably. We lived at their table the whole time we 
stayed at Sechele’s, and we thoroughly enjoyed the 
treat of a few French beans and potatoes, and ex¬ 
cellent bread. Sechele has had great losses amongst 
his cattle, and I got nothing out of him but two 
young oxen that he never used. He complained 
much of his poverty, and I believe he has but very 
little, and most of his people hungry. 

A hyena came last night, and took a fine heavy 
fat goat, which was tied by the leg to the wheel of 
the wagon I was sleeping in. Five Kaffirs were 
sleeping under the wagon, and two horses were tied 
to the hind wheel. There was instantly a regular 



hue and cry after him with assegais, fire-sticks, knob- 
kerries, and a most unearthly yelling of dogs and 
Kaffirs. They were guided by the cries of the poor 
goat for some time, but no sooner did they get 
there than 4 bar-baar, baar-bar,’ somewhere else, 
and the strong ravenous brute at length got clear 

away with his prey. At length, the sounds ceased, 
the dogs were all afraid, the night was very dark, 
the Kaffirs had no longer anything to guide them, 
and the chase had to be abandoned. I grudged the 
brute his dainty fare, for he had taken by far the 
best of the three. I should hardly have believed it 



possible he was able to carry away at such a pace so 
large and heavy an animal; 70 lbs. live weight, I 
should say. 

Three of my Kaffirs are prostrated with ague, and 
there was a great row two nights ago, some of them 
accusing another of witchcraft, or poisoning the food. 
The next day, however, the accused was taken ill, so 
I have heard no more. 

30th .—I am well away now from Merico ; come so 
far, scathless, through the Boers. I have been de¬ 
tained longer than I expected, partly by heavy rains, 
and partly from violent fever. 

The Merico Boers are most hospitable, and one 
and all treated me well, but I was too busy to go 
and visit any but those that lay on my path. My 
poor old wagon has come to an end at last. The 
roads were so fearfully stony that she broke down. 
After a couple of days spent in attempts at mending 
her, I met a trader with a wagon nearly empty, 
having disposed of most of his goods, and, after a 
great deal of hard bargaining, agreed to give him 
50/. in exchange for his, and we each off-loaded there 
and then. Alington and Woodcock have bought 
horses and have ridden forward to Mooi Biver, being 
long ago heartily tired of the wagons. 

I have had my rifle carefully loaded and am going 
to risk treking through the Lion Yelt by moonlight 
to-night for four or five hours, which is what the 
Boers never do. 

Dec. 11 th. — I am now outspanned before the 



Yaal River, four days on my road to Natal from 
Mooi River Dorp. I found there ivory at a very low 
price, in consequence of the rumoured war, or some 
other reason ; but I was obliged to sell part of my 
stock there. I got 5 s. Qd. per lb. for 1,000 lbs., and 
only 3 s. 6d. for 500 lbs. more ; but what with feathers, 
at 11. 10<s. per lb., and a few karosses and rhino¬ 
ceros horns, I sold to the tune of about 430/., a 
trifle more or less, and have still a wagon-load of the 
finest ivory left, which I am taking to Natal, and all 
the best of the karosses. I have become a trans¬ 
port-rider, and am taking in one wagon 3,000 lbs. 
of wool and ivory down to Natal, for which I am to 
receive, however, only 9,9. per 100 lbs. 

The first of my difficulties is the Yaal River, whicli 
is now full and may detain me here a week or more, 
and we have lots of rain every day, and I hear all 
the rivers ahead are also full, and I may be six weeks 
on the road. 

I picked up two German tradesmen, a mason and 
a blacksmith, who begged to be allowed to go with 
my wagons to Natal; the latter carried a gun, and, 
not liking the look of it, I said he must fire it off 
before putting it into the wagon ; he did so, and it 
burst all to pieces, tearing three great holes through 
his hat, one in the middle of his temple, and burning 
and blackening both his eyes, of course prostrating 
him and deluging him in blood, and it was some 
time ere we could pursuade him that he was not 
killed outright. We washed him well, and doctored 

A A 



and bandaged him up the best way we could, and 
he is now not much the worse. I have, in all, now 
sixty oxen, worth a good sum of money, as I could 
make four or five spans of as good and well-matched 
oxen as ever stepped before a tail, and I am now 
becoming a little o«£-proud, and take great interest in 

I had myself two narrow escapes at different times 
in crossing the Tugela. I was just recovering from 
fever, when some of the party proposed a swim, and 
we went down ; just before going in, I felt as if I was 
about to have an attack of ague, but I foolishly 
persisted. I had reached within twenty-five yards of 
the opposite bank, when I got into some back water 
and a strong stream, and could not make any more 
headway, and was getting very weak and exhausted. 
My companion, who had landed, called to me to go 
back, but I was much too exhausted to make the 
attempt. I was gradually getting farther off the 
bank, the back water and stream running round a 
bend, and should certainly not have made a landing, 
when a powerful Kaffir, who had previously 
challenged me to a race across the river, the head 
man of a blacksmith, came up, put his hand under 
my shoulder-blade, and forced me through the 
stream with the greatest apparent ease. He did not 
know that I was in such a fix as I really was, and a 
couple of pounds of tobacco delighted him im¬ 

I was crossing once, on horseback, when the river 



was very low, about up to the girths. I was leaning 
back rifle in hand, my feet foolishly in the stirrups, 
on each side of his neck, when the horse fell over 
some big stones. The stream immediately turned 
him over on his back, and, on regaining his 
legs, my left foot had got fast in the stirrup, my 
head and shoulders were under water, and I could 
just scrape the bottom with my hands as the sluggish 
Kaffir horse continued quietly walking on, and I was 
fast drowning, when I succeeded in grasping him 
firmly above the knee with my right hand, raising 
myself with my utmost strength, throwing my left 
arm up trying to grasp something. Most fortunately, 
the horse had a very long mane, and I succeeded in 
catching hold of it: I thus contrived to keep my 
head just above water, until, deliberately walking on 
at the same pace, he landed. I had imbibed a great 
quantity of water, and was very sick and ill with a 
horrid dizziness in my head, and singing in my ears 
for some time after. I lost my rifle, but after a long 
search succeeded, with my companion’s assistance, in 
recovering it. 

I have never crossed a river since then with my 
feet in the stirrups, nor ever will. My foot had 
turned round in the stirrup, and my instep was a 
good deal hurt. My horse was, fortunately, very 
quiet, as almost all Kaffir animals are. 

The Tugela is one of the most serious obstacles 
to travellers, and I have had many adventures on 
different drifts. I was once returning from Overberg 



with a covered spring cart (which I had made long 
enough to sleep in) drawn by four, six, or eight oxen, 
with a small troop of horses I had been buying. I 
had fastened eight of the quietest to the wheels, four 
on each side, as it was a very dark stormy night, 
with a heavy rain, and I feared they might trek 
back again. The rest were grazing near, when 
those attached to the cart got frightened and pulled 
back, the cart began to move, and this alarmed them 
more, and with a sudden jerk they pulled it over on 
the top of themselves broadside, when a frightful 
scene ensued, all pulling different ways, and 
struggling madly in the dark; it was a hazardous 
thing to go near them. At last, we contrived to 
cut them all adrift, and they galloped off into the 
darkness. We righted the wagon again, but it 
was broken to pieces. At daylight we started in 
pursuit of the horses, and being a wet, cold, very 
misty morning, we were more than half a day in 
hunting them up; eventually, we found them under 
the lee side of a large overhanging rock. We 
inspanned and reached the Tugela, to find it flooded. 
Fearful of losing my horses altogether if we had 
another night of it, as there are many Bushmen (all 
horse-stealers) in the neighbourhood, I determined 
on getting them on the right side of the Tugela, and 
succeeded in swimming them over among the loose 
oxen in safety. The cart was a still more serious busi¬ 
ness. I had selected eight of my best water-oxen, and 
after a long argument with my three lads, and hearing 



what they had to say for and against the attempt, the 
convincing argument at last being, if we did not get 
over, we should have no supper, they agreed to make 
trial. Acting on their good impulse, I inspanned 
at once, every spare rheim being knotted together 
to make as long a fore-tow as possible ; and the cart 
being very light, for fear the force of the stream 
should upset it, I put in some very large, heavy 
stones for ballast, and Matakitakit on his hams 
inside to keep them in their places. I fastened the 
remnant of the sail down fore and aft, having 
previously lashed all fast to the axle-tree to prevent 
everything from going asunder, and having taken the 
precaution to strip, and fasten money, promissory notes, 
&c., round my neck in a small bag, I mounted the 
box, whip in hand. Mick and Inyous took the tow, 
and got some twenty yards ahead of the oxen, which 
were standing in the water, as deep as they could 
get without swimming. It was pretty good ground 
going in, when I shouted 6 Trek !’ and away we went. 
The stream carried the leaders down very fast, and 
the oxen were gaining on the lads, the cart float¬ 
ing beautifully, and I thought all would go well, 
and was chuckling with inward satisfaction. When 
the front oxen had reached the boys, I shouted, 
‘ Let go the tow, and get out of the road ; ’ they got 
confused, stuck fast, and pulled the oxen round in 
the middle of the stream, and just as the leading 
oxen’s heads were within two feet of my knees, 
sailing down with the full force of the current, 



seeing an upset inevitable, I took a header down 
stream as far as ever I could go, out of harm’s way, 
and turned on my back to see the result. The cart 
had disappeared; Mick and Inyous, seated on the 
backs of two middle oxen, were going round in a 
frightful state of confusion, and there was not a 

vestige of Matakitakit, who was fastened inside the 
cart, and I feared that, the cart being turned bottom 
upwards, all the heavy stones must be on his head. 
I tried to make up to render assistance, but the 
stream was too strong, when, to my intense delight, 
up came Matakitakit about twenty yards behind. He 
gave himself a shake and a blow or two, and, though 



lie had previously declared he could not swim a 
yard, he struck out, Kaffir fashion, as well as any of 
us. The oxen got partly right, and we all got over 
eventually, one ox only being drowned. I lost 
everything that was in the cart, except my two guns, 
which I had lashed very securely to the sides. 

There is great difficulty, at first, in getting these 
Overberg horses to face water, as they have never seen 
a river, and I was once nearly all day fighting with 
them at the Volga, and should never have succeeded had 
it not been for some Dutchmen with a large troop of 
oxen. I got the horses amongst them and got them 
down to the bank, when about five fine powerful 
fellows wielded their tremendous whips, with handles 
eighteen or twenty feet long, and lashes in propor¬ 
tion, with such a deafening crack, that the hair flew 
in a cloud from the back of any unfortunate animal 
they chanced to light on, with such terrible good will, 
force, and effect, that it seemed a scramble which 
could be in first, and so out of harm’s way. They all 
landed safely, and did not stop galloping till they got 
through Harry smith. 

I found the best way of driving was to have a 
big bagful of stones round my waist and pelt them, 
as many a loiterer will not let you get quite near 
enough to thong him, and, if you press them too 
hard, they run clear off It was very hard work 
for one man, and I knocked up three riding-horses. 

Another time, Claas, my after-rider, half Bushman 
half Griqua, the very smartest fellow and most 



unmitigated scoundrel and best mimic I ever knew, 
volunteered to take two liorses across. He was dressed 
in leather, and mounted without divesting himself of 
anything ; the mare he was riding swam very fast and 
outpaced the other; in pulling him along, Claas 
checked the mare in the middle of the river, and she 
fell backwards over him, and he sank. The spectators 
on both sides were very much alarmed, and began 
to make all sorts of surmises at his not appearing 
again, amongst others, that he must have received 
a severe kick on his head ; when at length, full 
forty yards below in the middle of the river, that imp 
of darkness just showed his black head like a dog- 
otter, took off a kind of skull cap and waved it a time 
or two as a signal of distress, and then went down 
again, and kept on this game, coming to the surface 
sometimes with a struggle and a gurgle, and throw¬ 
ing his arms wildly about as if he was drowning, as 
far as the bend of the river, full 400 yards below 
where he first landed. I never saw so finished an 
actor in my life, or such a water-dog, and he was 
equally good at everything else. 

He and his mate David were a pretty pair. I was 
once going to the Hantani district, to buy horses, 
and took them to help me drive them home. On 
reaching Bloemfontein, David commenced by getting 
married ; I did not see his bride, and he did not 
leave me owing to this, as he said he could come 
some other time and take her down. 

I bought a lot of horses about forty miles farther 



on, and with the assistance of some Bushmen, well 
mounted, excellent riders, and very light weights, 
we succeeded in reaching Bloemfontein at night, 
put them in a stone kraal, and at dawn of day found 
they had all broken out. David and I saddled up 
immediately, and overtook some of the last stragglers 
within a mile of where we had brought them from. 
Holme’s Bushmen, seeing them coming, had pre¬ 
vented them from again joining the troop, or we 
should have had another day’s hard work in driving 
them out. 

We herded them all day, and kraaled them at 
night, and started off again the following morning, 
and reached Bloemfontein and again drove them 
into the kraal, when I gave David most positive 
orders not to leave them till I had had something to 
eat, and then I would come and watch, but I had 
not been long at the inn, when I heard David’s 
voice in the kitchen. I asked him whom he had 
left with the horses, when he said he must have 
something to eat as well as I; whereupon I 
knocked him down, and on his getting up again, 
still inclined to be saucy, I gave him another with 
such right good will, that he went backwards through 
a reed door down about six or seven steps. He made 
off at the top of his speed, exclaiming 4 Alaminta, 
my boss is mull ’ (Almighty, my master is mad); and 
I never set eyes on him again. 

I immediately went to the kraal; every horse 



was gone, but luckily they were very hungry, so I 
recovered them all on the outskirts of the town, 
feeding. I got them in again with help, fetched my 
blanket and saddle and watched them all night, not 
being able to find Claas. In the morning that 
worthy appeared, and I sent him out with the horses 
to feed, and lent him a good mare, that he might be 
able to turn them if they got their heads towards 
home, and ran away. 

In a couple of hours I went to look for him and 
them, and found the latter scattered about, and the 
fellow off with my mare, saddle, and bridle. In 
this dilemma I gave them all in the charge of the 
master of the skit kraal (the pound), who was answer- 
able, and went to the Field Cornet, and we saddled up 
and went in pursuit. In case of capture, I was to 
take the law into my own hands, tie him up and 
thrash him till I was perfectly satisfied, or could not 
hit another blow, after which he was to be dealt 
with in any manner the Landrost thought fit; but I 
knew the wily rascal was not going to be caught, 
and I have never heard tidings of him from that day 
to this. 

I then started with a big lump of a Maccateese, 
who rode so badly and fell off so often, that I had 
to do all the driving myself; he, however, watched 
them three nights till we got down to Sand River, 
when they broke out of a kraal and I lost them for 
three days. I found them among the Yittebergen 



Mountains, and hearing nothing of my Maccateese, 
who had gone back on the road to look for them, I 
started alone, and eventually I succeeded in getting 
all safely to the top of the Drakensberg, where I left 
them in charge of Mr. King at Kelson’s Kop. 




I 860 . 





April YJth.~ — Scoon Spruit — I am now about 450 
miles from Natal, and have got on so far very well, 
on the whole. I have been detained here three days 
in getting three muids of wheat ground. The mill 
was made in the year one, to judge from appearances, 
and it has gone wrong twice since I have been here, 
and delayed me not a little. 

I went out this morning to try and get a zebra, as 
my dogs were very hungry. I soon found a troop, 
and was nearing them at every stride, on my horse 
Midnight, and was within twenty-five yards of a 
fat mare I had singled out, when down came my 
horse in a hole. I picked myself up at a distance of 
sixteen yards from the hole where the horse fell. 
The old horse rolled over me twice or thrice, my 
right foot sticking in the stirrup, but I managed to get 
stirrup, leather and all, away, just before he regained 



his feet and was off. It was some time before I could 
stand up, when I found my gun lying four or live 
yards away, with the muzzle towards me. I found 
myself bruised all over the lower part of my body, 
and the loose bullets and knife that I carried 
crushed with the weight of the horse into my ribs, 

causing me excruciating pain, but I have no serious 
injuries, and hope to be able to ride again in a few 
days. An excellent omelette for breakfast, with a very 
fair amount of pontac, has already righted me consi¬ 
derably, but for the first ten minutes I thought I 
was nearly done for. 

My after-rider came up in all haste on seeing the 
horse come back to the wagons, and brought a 
bottle of water. I handed him the gun, and told 
him to shoot a zebra, as my dogs were famishing. He 



1ms just killed one, and I have sent six oxen to bring 
it bodily to the wagons. So far, I have been living 
well on koran, wild ducks, and partridges, having 
recovered my invaluable little Juno, whom I left 
behind last year with a broken leg. She is all 
right now, and is invaluable to me. She retrieves 
everything in or out of water. I am well off for 
dogs this year ; another old stager, Ponto, is nearly as 
good; and I have Gyp, Painter, Wolf, and Captain, 
for large game, five horses, six Kaffirs, and one Tottie, 
and have every comfort in my wagons. 

I had some difficulty in getting a permit for 100 lbs. 
of gunpowder and 500 lbs. of lead, but eventually 
succeeded, so that I am now all right, and have 
ample ammunition to go wherever my wandering 
fancy may lead me. If I can only find a sufficiency 
of water, I hope to reach the Zambesi this year. 

19^.— I am still desperately sore and stiff, but 
nothing but bruises. A goodly array of game is 
hanging to the sides of my two wagons, including 
springbuck, blesbuck, quagga, and wildebeest, and 
both Kaffirs and hounds are sleek and fat. A Boer’s 
wagon just in front of mine came across six lions 
yesterday, and my driver Boccas saw two to-day, 
very large, male and female, but did not shoot. I 
cannot take the saddle again for a week, but manage 
to pot my game by walking on ahead of the wagons, 
and rolled over a wildebeest long ere sunrise this 
morning. We inspan just as the morning star rises, 
and it is very cold till the sun is well up. 



2 ftth.—Lobatse .—Reached Merico on the 21st, and 
found my oxen all in prime condition. Meercat and 
Ngami, my two youngsters, also show signs of good 
caring for. I left all my jaded oxen behind in the 
charge of a German missionary, Zimmerman by 
name ; he is a good Samaritan, and took every possible 
care of the last batch. Four more are dead of lung 
sickness, and three others will follow their steps 
shortly, I fear. 

I laid in a great store of mealies, pumpkins, 
corn and meal, tobacco, dry peaches, potatoes, and 
onions, all in barter for rice, tea, coffee, and sugar, 
and made a sheep into sausages. There was a 
great harvest this year in Merico, and I found plenty 
of everything. 

When I arrived at the frontier, commandants, 
field cornets, and all officers appertaining to the ad¬ 
ministration of Boer government, had gone to a public 
sale of sheep, cattle, and land, some eighty or a hun¬ 
dred miles off, a very rich Boer having most oppor¬ 
tunely for me departed this life, and I was annoyed by 
no one, and might, as it happened, have had a wagon 
load of powder and lead ; but my 100 lbs., for which I 
have a permit, is my all. 

Yesterday, I had a fit of the blues, in consequence 
of my old Kaffirs, Tanga and Matakitakit, leaving me. 
The former I have had off and on for eight years, and 
the latter has been with me the last five years, con¬ 
stantly, in all my long rambles into the interior ; and 
I am really sorry to lose them, as they knew my 



ways, and I placed the utmost confidence in them 
both ; the former an excellent cook and driver, and 
altogether a strong, useful, handy, most obliging 
fellow, and the latter invaluable as a horse-tenter. I 
used to call him a second Earey; the shyest animal 
became perfectly quiet after being a week in his 
charge, and he could catch any horse at any time. 
They had overheard me say to my head man, 
Boccas, that I had made up my mind to go direct to 
Mosilikatse, and the mere mention of his dreaded 
name quite unnerved them. I had only engaged 
them to go as far as Sechele’s, being very ill at the 
time, and thinking I should not again go' into the 
interior, but being now so far on my way, and feeling 
once more comparatively strong and well, the in¬ 
ducement is too great to resist. They never told me 
they were going away until the last minute, and such 
a thought never entered my head, and I was much 
surprised and vexed. In my haste, I sent them Hy¬ 
ing away without a shilling, which I regret much 
now, as I really had not a complaint to make against 
either of them. Another, named Boy, not good for 
much, also went with them. Spearman, a Bamang- 
wato % . stuck to me, as well as Charley, and I hired 
another driver immediately, rejoicing jn the name of 
Adonis. I promised two Bechuanas some beads to 
drive my oxen and horses to Sechele’s, and started 
within two hours, so that this desertion did not delay 
me much. I am only sorry that I did not give the 
lads their money, and part on good terms, but any- 



thing like regard or gratitude for past presents and 
kindnesses is not in the nature of any Kaffir. I never 
heard an instance of one really becoming attached to 
his master. I had become quite fond of these two, 
but it was a misplaced attachment, and I find you 
can only make use of these fellows as you would of a 
useful, handy machine ; and for the future I will iavish 
my kindnesses on the two much superior animals, 
horses and dogs, in spite of the missionaries dunning 
it into me, that a black man is my brother. I could 
see yesterday that the good Samaritan was secretly 
annoyed and displeased that I would not shake hands 
with a parcel of his baptized, singing heathens. 

May 5 th.—Kaporig (Full moon ).—Midnight is 
dead : 20 1. 10<s. gone to the dogs. This is the last 
water we shall find for three days, and I had so 
timed it as to start from this at full moon, but my 
oxen broke out of the kraal last night, and it is now 
late in the afternoon, and the Yachters (herd-boys) 
have not yet returned with them; therefore I much 
fear I shall lose the moon, wffiich is of vast import¬ 
ance. Game is very scarce. I have been out all the 
morning and not burnt powder. Yesterday I rode 
far in quest of giraffes, but have found none as yet. 
I have been out mostly on foot, and made great 
havoc amongst guinea-fowls, and had curries till I 
am tired of them. I found Sechele fat and well, 
and he helped considerably to lighten one half aum 
of pontac, and gave me nothing in return. He is 
sending in with me a wagon full of hunters. I have 



not seen them, but hear there are some twenty-five, 
with one horse amongst the lot, which is just now 
about to expire, if it has not gone off the hooks 
already. He says he knows that his men will potter 
about near home, and kill nothing, if they do not go 
in with me far into the interior, where game is plenty. 
If they follow me this year I am likely to lead them 
a pretty dance of it; as my wagons are heavy with 
all I require, and my oxen are in splendid order, and 
for once my people, at present, at any rate, are in the 
same mind as myself, and are willing to trek into 
unknown regions. I have been lucky enough to get 
January once more, whom I mentioned in a former 
journal. On a spoor he is without an equal, and has 
a natural instinct in finding his way back to the 
wagons, which, in a country of such perfect same¬ 
ness as this is in most parts, is something wonderful. 
There are no land-marks of any sort to guide the 
eye ; it is one densely-wooded flat, as far as the 
human eye can range. In most countries I am 
myself a pretty good hand, but this land beats me 

9 th. — Batlanarmi (a Fountain). — I have been 
very lucky in finding water in two vleys, and have 
come over this much-dreaded part of the road in a 
manner most satisfactory to horses, oxen, and all the 
party, dogs included. On Monday I fell in with 
seven bull elands, and had a very long stern chase, 
in consequence of my gun missing fire both barrels, 
and owing also to the obesity of my horse Batwing, 



who went as slow as a coach, labouring frightfully 
under his load of beef. It was all I could do to 
come up with them a second time, with an unsparing 
use of a pair of long military rowels, which did me 
good service, and will, I hope, do the like again. I 
eventually killed my eland in the middle of the 
wagon-road, many miles ahead, however, of the 
wagons. January, much better mounted, and very 
light, drove another out to the wagons, where the 
dogs all baited him in grand style, and Boccas 
knocked him over, thus laying in a superabundance 
of delicious meat for both parties. Sechele’s party 
consists of about forty men in all. I have suffered, 
and am still suffering, so much from rheumatism in 
my left shoulder, that I cannot raise my gun, and 
my left hand has sustained a severe bruise, in inspan- 
ning an unruly ox. A leaf of tobacco applied wet, 
and well chewed previously, is our remedy for cases 
where the skin is broken. 

I made this morning a very satisfactory shot at 
a pallah, a beautiful young ram, of about 100 lbs. 
weight, little less than 300 yards off. Finding I 
could not raise my rifle, I made a rest of an old 
dead tree, and took him beautifully through the 
shoulder and heart; he ran about 300 yards in thick 
bush, but old Wolf, coming up about a quarter of an 
hour afterwards, hit off his spoor beautifully, and I 
found him lying dead. 

I have this morning rejoiced the heart of old 
Wildebeest, a Kafflr of Sechele’s, who has come 

B B 2 



all this way for meat, by giving him the breast of 
one of the elands, and he is going to carry it all the 
way back to the State, four good days. His load 
cannot weigh less than 70 lbs., though when sun-dried 
it will of course be considerably less. We have found 
two bees’ nests. I got a Bakalahari to-day from 
Stably, a brother of Sechele’s, to go with me the 
whole way, and he exhorted me to take care of him, 
though they themselves treat them far worse than 
dogs. We have been busy patching up Sechele’s 
wagon ; it is in a desperate state ; every spoke out 
of the nave of one wheel. Still, green hide will 
do wonders; it holds like a vice, as it gradually con¬ 
tracts as it becomes sun-dried. 

12th .—I write this at Massouey, a fountain, now 
full of delicious water, where we arrived last night, 
and the roaring of a lion, close at hand, made us 
particularly expeditious in getting the oxen kraaled, 
and the horses made fast to the wagons. It was too 
dark to see to shoot, and we fortunately found a 
kraal already made to hand, which only needed a 
little repairing to make it all right. The jackals kept 
up a concert the whole night, but we heard no more 
of his majesty. Three springbucks are all that we 
have slain since Batlanarmi. I fell in with an old 
gemsbok bull, but my after-rider’s horse, Snowdon, 
ran right in between us, and so prevented my getting 
a shot; he is hot-headed and a bit of a bolter, and 
January is a poor hand in the saddle. The sun is 
very powerful and the roads heavy. I have just 




heaved off two eland skins to lighten the wagons, 
and a starved wretch of a Masara immediately pro¬ 
ceeded to make a meal of a part, and cut up the rest 
in portions that he could carry away for the same 

ISth [Friday). — Letloche .— On Sunday afternoon 
I left Massouey, and lost my road in consequence 
of the one I meant to travel being so overgrown with 
grass as to be invisible. I was sorry on account of 
the poor oxen, as the sun was roasting, the sand 
heavy, and the bush thick. I reached Labotani on 
Monday night, having got over a vast deal of ground; 
found plenty of water, and rested my oxen on 
Tuesday, and we killed pallah, blue wildebeest, and 
springbuck, six in all. I was awakened out of my 
first sleep by hearing a short husky cough. I started 
up and never closed my eyes again that night. Alas ! 
I was only too well acquainted with what it por¬ 
tended, and had it been my own summons instead of 
my poor horse Frenchman’s, I could not have been 
much more concerned. I remained over Wednesday, 
and I was buoying myself up with the hope that 
lots of bran mashes and boiled mealies might still 
bring him round. He came to the wagon and to me, 
and looked in the most piteous manner for help. I 
cannot bear to see a dumb animal in suffering, 
so I shouldered my gun and went after game, and 
the old nag tumbled over, just as I returned at 
sunset, dead. Yesterday I inspanned and came on 
here: this is a wild, pretty out-of-the-way place, 



Gordon Cumming’s most northerly point — a splen¬ 
did natural stone fountain, about nine feet deep, but 
so hidden that a stranger might pass close without 
the slightest hope or expectation of finding water 
from the nature of the country around, unless he 
were guided there by some friendly turtle-dove or 
Namaqua partridge. I have often been guided to 
water by these birds, or the croaking of frogs, which 
can be heard at a long distance in the deathlike 
quiet of our lovely star-light nights. 

I have just enjoyed a delicious swim in this foun¬ 
tain. I feel a little lonely, being without any com¬ 
panion with whom I can converse, with an immense 
expanse of country all around me, all wood, and not 
a trace of any human being. To-morrow I am about 
to strike an entirely new line of country; none of us 
know anything about it, but there are evident traces 
of late rains, and a probability of finding rain-water 
in vleys, which encourage me. to proceed, 

I intend treking as near due north as the country 
will allow, capturing a wandering Bushman when 
occasion offers, and pressing him into my service, until 
I get a substitute, or he makes his escape. The life is 
full of anxiety, excitement, hope, disappointment, 
satisfaction and pleasure, comforts, and the reverse; 
it has great charms in some respects, but it requires 
energy, determination, and perseverance. If my 
health is only spared me I have no fear, but my con¬ 
stitution is very much shaken ; I have a very poor 
appetite, and I live almost entirely on dry toast, cold 



roast guinea-fowls, partridges, pheasants, korans, dik- 
kops, and ducks. My youngsters, Meercat and JSFgami, 
are lively and well, and are very useful and handy, 
and beginning to learn to talk Dutch, English, and 
Kaffir, or a kind of bastard language of all three 

I can bag any quantity of winged game as long as 
I have Juno, and my old favourite gun, made by 
Burrow, of Preston, whose guns have a capital name 
in the county. I have shot for ten years constantly 
with a seven-bore of his make, which for accuracy 
and driving qualities could not be surpassed; and in 
our first disastrous expedition to St. Lucia Bay, 
where eight of my companions died, they had all 
previously determined on having similar weapons. 
Burrow died during my absence, and his eldest son 
now carries on the business. 

21st. — Kanye. — I have been detained here two 
days trying to get a guide, and have bribed old 
Caballa, the captain of a tribe of Bakalahari, consi¬ 
derably, and am now waiting his final answer. I have 
bought as much Kaffir corn as I can carry, as many 
bucks or goats as I want, and have been busy making 
sausages for the road. 

On Saturday I shot two tsessebes at one shot, 
breaking the leg of one, which the dogs took to the 
water and pulled down ; and to-day I have been also 
successful in bringing to bay a splendid fat eland cow. 
Accompanied by January, on old Snowdon, and seven 
Bakalahari, we sallied forth, and soon found fresh 



spoor, which the Kaffirs followed in the most inde¬ 
fatigable manner; it led us in a regular circle. 
Though we maintained a dead silence, the elands 
must have got our wind, as we found from the spoor 
they were off at full speed. January then took up 
the spoor, holding on fast by the pommel with one 
hand, and kept it in the most marvellous manner at 
a canter, wherever the bush would admit of it, for 
three or four miles at least. I followed in his wake, 
Ferus (fearless), who is in excellent condition, pulling 
hard. I should have called a halt, but the spoor 
led homewards. January still kept on at a canter 
through the thick bush; at length, I got sight of 
three cows; the rest of the party had done their 
duty, it was now my turn: I contented myself by 
keeping them in sight till we got into a much more 
open part, when I let Ferns make play, and he 
went at a slashing pace over everything. The elands 
led me in among the Kaffir pit-fa]Is, and I steered 
my nag wherever the fence was thickest, as being 
safest, and he jumped like a stag, and in a very 
short brush singled out and ran right into the best 
cow, when I fired from the saddle. 

25 th .—I have got on very slowly since logging up 
last. There is no road; we have to cut our way 
through the bush, and we have had heavy sand-hills 
to contend with. We have had so far an abund¬ 
ance of water, but have come in a very unsatis¬ 
factory zigzag sort of manner. I went out to shoot 
a giraffe for food, with two Bushmen as guides, who 




knew nothing about the country, and, after waiting 
in vain for the wagons, were obliged to follow our 
steps all the way back. Got on the wagon-tracks 
a little before sunset, and made great play to 
catch the wagons before it was too dark to see 
the spoor. 

29i th .—-This is a festival of some kind or other in 
England, it strikes me, but in the centre of South 
Africa all days are much alike. I have been coming 
in the right direction, at all events, since my last 
entry. Early on Sunday we reached by a forced 
march, on account of water, a pretty little river, 
which we call Mesa or Nesa—the Kaffirs speak so 
indistinctly I cannot get at the right pronunciation— 
clear good water, and some hills in the neighbour¬ 
hood. The lions had killed two zebras close to 
where we outspanned, and we made a strong kraal, 
expecting a visit from them, and I set a stell (a 
spring gun) for them by the remains of one of the 
zebras. The oxen rushed pell mell into the large 
vley here, and seemed to enjoy, not a little, a vigorous 
pull of good rain water ; the day had been hot, and 
we had come a long distance. 

Adonis has just interrupted me by saying his gun 
had burst. I expected something serious, but on 
examination find it is only the stock, and an ele¬ 
phant’s ear put on wet, and dried in the sun, will 
make it all right. One of my Totties has got drunk, 
and is playing old Harry with the Masaras, chasing 
them in all directions, and, if I do not at once 



interfere, we shall not have a guide left to show us 
the next water, which I have every reason to believe 
is far off. The game is wild and wary here, and 
giraffes shyer than I ever before saw them. 

June 3rd (Fidl moon ).—I am now outspanned at a 
vley of rain water, the immense Salt-pan, nine days’ 
journey long, and two broad, fully in view, and any¬ 
thing more dreary and desolate I never conceived. 
I have just returned, with one Masara, from a long 
survey of the surrounding country. As far as the 
eye can gaze there is nothing but sand, and not a 
living thing to be seen but a few wildebeests, an 
odd unhappy-looking springbuck or two, and nine 
male ostriches, which I saw speeding along in search 
of a less barren soil. I have come along the last 
five days very satisfactorily, winding about to avoid 
occasional hills, but not much out of the right line of 
country, and I shall take every advantage of the moon 
to cross the pan. I am quite at the east end of it, and 
a night and a day will, I hope, see me over it, and then 
ere long I may hope to come across a few straggling 
elephants. I laid in plenty of flesh yesterday — a 
buffalo, quagga, and blue wildebeest — and no less 
than twelve Masaras are doing their best to demolish 
a good share of it. I leave the Meea river, which 
is now dry, a little to the east, and hope to come 
to the Qualeba to-morrow night: this part of the 
road is dreary and monotonous enough, but I hope 
it will lead to something better. At all events, after 
coming so far, I will persevere, though I have lots of 



impediments to contend with. One front wheel of 
my wagon is very shaky, but I have rectified it with 
buffalo-hide as well as I can. 

The row I mentioned had nearly had a serious 
termination. When I went after him, the mad 
Tottie, after breaking one fellow’s head with an 
iron kettle, had just got his gun and was leisurely 
buckling on his bandolier to shoot two or three 
others, who had offended him. They scuttled away 
like rabbits in the bush, and were hid like magic, 
and I had great difficulty, at nightfall, in inducing 
them to return. As soon as I had wrested the 
gun from the Tottie, he at once packed up all 
his traps and prepared to start off, but eventually 
he agreed to wait till next morning, when he re¬ 
collected nothing of what had taken place, and all 
is going on smoothly again, though they are difficult 
to manage and keep in any sort of order. Two 
more of Sechele’s Kaffirs were ready to decamp, 
but I induced them to return ; still they are dis¬ 
satisfied and sulky, and I fully expect desertions 
from my camp any day, on any pretext. They 
do not know where they are going, and are getting 
afraid, and believe implicitly the absurd stories the 
Bakalahari and other wandering Bushmen tell them, 
but I am determined to go on, and will succeed. 
The oxen trek admirably, and the horses are in 
capital order ; but they get little or no work, as I 
am saving them for the elephants, and do all my 
hunting on foot. I saw harrisbuck spoor yesterday, 



but was not fortunate enough to find any. I found 
a vley in the heart of the bush, where immense troops 
of buffaloes drank, and at least twenty different paths 
of rhinoceros, &c., leading up to it, and should much 
have liked to watch the water, but the wagons were 
far ahead, and I reluctantly followed on, or else I 
might have had great sport. 

1C )th [Sunday ).—I missed a day somehow or other; 
at least, I was a day beforehand, as I found out by 
the moon. For the last eight days I have come on 
well, crossing the Meea, which was dry, as I 
mentioned above ; the Qualeba, which had three or 
four water-holes at the source, the rest being dry ; 
the Chonain, about forty yards wide, also dry ; the 
Simvain, the same width, of brackish water on the sur¬ 
face ; and I now write this on the banks of the Shua, 
where there is plenty of good water. The country is 
very dry. The Masaras say they have had no rain 
here. The leaves are all fast falling off the trees, and 
everything is dreary and desolate. There is plenty of 
rhinoceros spoor, but we have not found them, as 
they stand so far off from the water. I have shot a 
giraffe and eland, only for food, and last night a 
splendid old manikin ostrich, in full feather. A 
Bequina, a runaway from one of the Boers, joined 
me yesterday, and describes the country in front as 
totally without water or game of any description, 
and the Boers are all treking home; but I place no 
reliance on his statement, and think it is only a ruse 
on his part to induce me to return. The Boers say 



that the elephants have all left the country and gone 
where rain has fallen. I should much like myself to 
change my route, and hunt to the east of where I 
now am, in Mosilikatse’s country, but that old tyrant 
is almost sure to forbid me leave; at any rate, I will 
leave him as my final resource. 

I have just lost one of my best oxen (Kaffir by 
name) at the Simouani; a spiked poison-spear fell 
on him as he was grazing under the tree, and pene¬ 
trated through his back, and he swelled up to a great 
size. Seeing no chance of his recovery, I shot him. 
The Masaras set these spears (stells) for rhinoceros 
and other game. They are hung in the branches 
of a tree, high up, and supported by a line, which 
comes under a forked stick and across the path, and 
stuck loosely into the ground with a peg; and any 
beast running against the line, or pushing it away, 
brings this great post, four feet long and as thick as 
a man’s thigh, with a poisoned head of a barbed 
assegai stuck loosely in it, right into the unfortunate 
beast’s back, where the assegai remains, driven, as in 
this case, right through the body by the weight of 
the post, and the post falls to the ground. 

I hope sincerely my casualties may be few this 
year, as I can no longer afford very heavy losses. My 
wagons are getting perceptibly fighter from the con¬ 
sumption of food — ten men feeding daily, besides 
always a sprinkling of Masaras and six hungry curs; 
and the carelessness and recklessness of the idle vaga¬ 
bonds, who have already lost and broken the greater 



part of my cooking utensils. The Kaffirs care for 
nothing ; they carry all their worldly goods on their 
backs. They eat, drink, snuff, smoke, dance, sing, and 
sleep, and if they can do all this, they do not seem to 
have a wish on earth ungratified. I often envy them, 
I must confess, as I feel very dull and lonely at 
times. I was amused at one fellow last night, whose 
only article of clothing was a straw hat, made after 
the fashion of a bowl. Charlie, my leader, who is a 
good-hearted boy, compassionated him, and said he 
would give him an old worn-out cotton blanket of his, 
worth when new about 2s. 6<i., and now about 1 \d .; 
but, on second thoughts, said he must give him his 
hat for it, and the exchange was made on the spot. 
To-morrow at daybreak we leave the river, and our 
old blear-eyed Masara guide says it is two long days 
to the next water; after that, we come to the 
Madinas and Bushmen, and if I can get through the 
dense forests, which my authority says are im¬ 
passable in the dry season, I hope yet to reach the 
Falls of the Zambesi. 

13th .—I have been fortunate in getting two good 
specimens of the rarer sort of antelopes, viz. roan 
antelope and gemsbok, or oryx; also, a giraffe 
cow, in prime condition. My horse deserves all the 
credit of the gemsbok, as he ran with the speed and 
endurance of a steam-engine. The country was an 
immense flat, and I had no thoughts of coming up 
with the herd, and was just pulling up, but seeing them 
evidently hard-blown, and feeling my horse strong 




and fresh, I nursed him for a burst, taking a cool sur¬ 
vey of the length of their horns meanwhile, and soon 
decided on a splendid cow, and when I called on Ferns 
he was alongside in 1,000 yards. The pace was 
tremendous, and I rolled the gemsbok over, and 
narrowly escaped going a header over her myself, 
as she fell suddenly right under Ferus’ nose. I saw 
the first elephant spoor yesterday, and I may now 
fall in with them any day, and have all in readiness; 
it is not, however, my present intention to stay and 
hunt here, but to get a couple of degrees farther 
north, where they are three times as thick, and un¬ 

16^A.—I have just been paying a visit to some 
Boers, about twenty miles off, partly from interested 
motives, and partly from compassion for a sick man, 
an old acquaintance of mine, to whom I thought 1 
might be of service, from my experience in African 
fever, and having the usual remedies by me. I found 
him not so sick, however, but that he knew how to 
put on a figure of 60 1. for his horse, which I at length 
was glad to buy for 50/. I leave the wagons to¬ 
morrow to go forward in search of a route free from 
that vile scourge the tsetse, which has turned back a 
party of Boers. 

21st —I have been away only five days from my 
wagons, as I could not proceed, in consequence of 
my Kaffirs not being able to keep up. It is 
terrible hard work to go over the heavy sands on 
foot; my people were dead beat, and the next stage 



was two long days on horseback without water, so I 
was obliged to give it up ; but I gained a good deal 
of information about my journey, in case I make 
up my mind to go in that direction. I found no 
elephants, but tsetse in abundance; the country 
awfully heavy and dry, and drawbacks innumerable, 
with nothing to encourage one to proceed. I 
have ridden about seventy miles due north, diverg¬ 
ing west and east considerably for water. Makaina- 
kanyama is the first water, about five hours on 
horseback, riding fast; thence to Jurra, a little farther, 
say six hours ; Tamahopa, Tamashaki, the latter 
about four hours on horseback from Jurra, and my 
farthest; next Dundallah, too far east; and two days 
north we come to the En Duiker and Bonga rivers; 
the latter, my authority says, runs into the Zambesi, 
four days on foot due north, but I think the infor¬ 
mation rests on no good foundation. There was little 
game; only two elands and two quaggas fell to my rifle. 
Snowdon, seven successive days under the saddle, went 
marvellously, as also did Ferus. They had nothing 
but grass, as dry as a chip, to eat. We made the 
horses fast to a tree every night, on account of 
the lions. I saw one solitary old harrisbuck and 
tried to stalk him, but two elands between us gave 
him warning, unseen by me, and he disappeared in 
the thick bush, where it was impossible to give 

At Tamashaki I first fell in with the striped 
eland, marked just like a koodoo, but differing 



in no other respect from the usual and common 
kind. After a very sharp gallop through and over 
some very ugly scrub and thorny bush, I ran into 
and killed the first I saw of this new variety. Living¬ 
stone first discovered them near Sesheke, across the 
Zambesi, one of Sekeletu’s outposts. 

29 th. — Ramshua .—I found five bull elephants, 
gave chase, and singled and drove out the largest, 
and gave him a couple of pills to make him quiet; 
he shortly turned and stood at bay, about forty 
yards off, and then came on with a terrific charge. 
My newly-purchased horse, Kebon, which I was 
riding for the first time, stood stock still, and I in¬ 
tended to give the elephant my favourite shot in the 
chest, but at every attempt to raise the gun for the 
purpose of so doing, my horse commenced tossing his 
head up and down, and entirely prevented me from 
taking aim. During my attempts to pacify and 
steady him, the bull charged, and I fired at 
random, and whether the ball whistled uncomfortably 
near the horse’s ear or not I can’t say, but he gave 
his head so sudden a jerk as to throw the near 
rein over on to the off side ; the curb chain came 
undone, and the bit turned right round in his mouth. 
The huge monster was less than twenty yards off, 
ears erected like two enormous fans, and trumpeting 
furiously. Having no command whatever of my 
horse, I dug the long rowels in most savagely, when 
Kebon sprang straight forward for the brute, and I 
thought it was all up ; I leaned over on the off* side 



as far as possible, and his trunk was within a few 
feet of me as I shot close by him. I plied the rowels, 
and was brought again to a sudden stand by three 
mapani trees, In a sort of triangle; a vigorous dig, 
and he got through, my right shoulder coming so 
violently in contact with one of the trees as almost 
to unhorse me, slewing my right arm behind my back, 

over my left hip. I know not how I managed to 
stick to my gun, 14 lbs. weight, with my middle 
finger only hooked through the trigger-guard, my 
left hand right across my chest, holding by the end 
of the reins, which, most fortunately, I had in my 
hand when I fired, and in this fashion we went 



at a tearing gallop through a thick tangled bush, and 
underwood, mostly hack-thorns, over which my nag 
jumped like a buck. He was very nearly on his 
head three or four times, as the soil was very heavy, 
sandy, and full of holes. The monster was all this 
time dose in my wake; at length, I got clear from 
him, and he turned and made off in the opposite 
direction at his best pace. As soon as I could pull 
up, which I managed after performing three or four 
circles, I jumped off, righted my bridle, and went 
after him like the wind, as he had a long start, and 
I was afraid of losing him in thick bush. After 
giving him ten shots, and sustaining three more 
savage charges, the last a long and silent one — far 
from pleasant, as my horse had all the puff taken out 
of him, and he could only manage to keep his own 
before the brute—to my great satisfaction he at length 
fell, to rise no more. I had long been quite exhausted, 
and could not even put a cap on the nipple. Boccas, 
on Batwing, turned up about an hour after ; he said 
he fired all his powder away, giving his elephant six¬ 
teen bullets to no purpose; but the horse looked quite 
fresh, and both barrels were loaded, and every man 
has a perfect right to form his own opinion as to the 
reason why and wherefore. 

Elephant hunting is the very hardest life a man 
can chalk out for himself. Two blank days, riding 
five hours at a foot’s pace to a vley, where the 
Masaras tell you they have drunk ; sleeping in the 
bush, with nothing to eat; a drink of muddy water 

c c 2 



in the morning, out of a dirty tortoise-shell, which 
serves for breakfast, dinner, and supper; all day in 
the saddle, under a broiling sun, following after three 
half-starved Masaras in greasy, tattered skins, who 
carry a little water in the belly of a quagga, which 
is nauseous to a degree, and never seeing life the 
whole day. Two days like this, followed by two 
successful ones, is about what you may expect. 

Nothing more miserable and dirty can be conceived 
than a Masara encampment. It consists of temporary 
half-thatched sheds, and a few bushes stuck in here and 
there to break the wind, with half-putrid dried flesh, 
water vessels, and shreds of old skins, hung up in the 
surrounding trees. My trusty after-rider brings two 
or three armfulls of grass and makes my couch in the 
most eligible corner, with my saddle for a pillow, and 
here I court sleep till daybreak, lying close to a 
greenwood fire, the smoke of which passes over you 
when yoli lie close to the ground, and keeps off the 
mosquitoes. There is something quite overpowering 
in the death-like stillness of the forest at night — a 
brilliant sky, innumerable stars, bright and twinkling, 
dusky figures in all possible attitudes lying around, 
the munching of our faithful horses, which are tied to 
trees all night, and frequently the jackal’s cry, 
the hyena’s howl, the occasional low growl of a 
lion, or the heavy tramp and crash in the bush of a 
herd of elephants, with a scream which can be heard 
at an immense distance. This is the way our nights 
are usually passed in the bush, and the most light- 



hearted fellow in the world, when all alone for months, 
must have occasional fits of despondency. 

Full of thorns and bruises, and half dead from 
thirst, I offsaddled Kebon, kneehaltered him, and then 
lay under the shade of a tree, having not the most 
remote idea as to my whereabouts, shouting and 
firing blank powder to bring up the Masaras. To 
add, if possible, to the many mishaps, my horse had 
strayed, and I had to follow his spoor, and did not 
overtake him for nearly a mile, and then I was 
obliged to retrace my own footsteps, which was not 
so easy. I had not long returned, when January 
turned up, and he led the way back at a trot on foot, 
distancing all the Masaras, and just at sunset got to 
the wagon, where I first got a drink. Such days as 
these are rather more than sport. I was much amused 
by watching the tick birds trying to alarm an old 
white rhinoceros, that we were approaching from 
under the wind, quite ignorant of his danger. They 
ran into his ears, and fluttered about his eyes, 
keeping up an incessant chirping, but he would not 
be warned till we got above wind, when he elevated 
head and tail, snuffed, trotted, and snorted, and went 
away in grand style at a swinging trot. We had 
better game in view, but to-night I am going to 
watch the water, as the moon is high, and then he 
must be more wary. My fellows have just made a 
hole at the edge of the water, as game is very scarce, 
and we are hard up for meat. 

July 8 th. — Tamashahi .—After much consultation 



and deliberation, I have decided, in spite of all the 
remonstrances of the Boers, to trek due north, and 
stand my chance of tsetse, kief (poison), with which 
the bush in many places abounds, thirst, and other im¬ 
pediments. I have a hankering to reach the Zambesi 
and see the great Falls, which is so strong as to over¬ 
rule all minor difficulties, though I cannot hide from 
myself the great risk I incur to horses, dogs, and oxen; 
still something urges me on, and I will follow my 
fate, good or evil, and am already three hard days 
on my route, without accident. 

I had a good night’s buffalo-shooting by the water ; 
they came in large herds; I was in a hole under the 
wind, and made very good work, killing five dead on 
the spot. A sixth had got about a mile away, and no 
doubt many more subsided in the bush, but as there 
was a superabundance of delicious flesh, I did not go 
on the spoor of the wounded. Nothing but buffaloes 
came, but they in great numbers, -and I could have 
shot many, many more, but my bullets were ex¬ 
hausted. This was not mere butchery, though it looks 
like it. The crops of the Maccalacas Kaffirs failed 
this year, and they are more than half starved, and 
it was only combining sport with charity, as not 
even a bit of hide was suffered to remain. Poor 
Gyp, I grieve to say, was taken by a tiger. I had 
ridden forwards to water, and she came after me 
on the spoor, before the wagons. It was night, and 
Adonis heard the scuffle, and poor Gyp’s last 
breath, which left her carcase, not in the shape of a 
yell, but rather of a fierce angry whine that she 



could not gripe the brute in return. She was the 
gamest of the game, and had had numberless escapes, 
wonderful, lucky, or providential, whatever you like 
to call them. Except my perfect Juno, I had sooner 
the fate had happened to any other of the pack. 

The country here is frightfully heavy white sand ; 
and the air is so dry, and the sand so sharp, that my 
wagon-wheel is completely gone. We have driven 
in no end of wedges, and it is so bound round with 
buffalo hide as to be almost hidden from sight. An 
old Boer, however, says he will put new spokes in for 
me, and the dissel-boom is about to be sacrificed 
for that purpose. 

19 th. — Mateste .—I have but little idea of my 
whereabouts, as I hear such contradictory statements 
from the Kaffirs. None of us can properly under¬ 
stand the language, which is a great drawback ; but 
I have come to the conclusion the Kaffirs themselves 
do not know, or at any rate will not tell the way to 
the Zambesi, or give us any idea of the distance. 
One man positively affirms that it is only four days, 
the next that it is a month, the next never heard 
the name of the river ; and they are one and all so 
stupid and utterly indifferent, that I have given up en¬ 
quiry, and hold always due north. I have only treked 
four days since last logging up, two very hard ones 
without water, and then we came to an entirely dif¬ 
ferent country, bare and thinly wooded, with plenty 
of small hills in every direction, lots of fountains and 
running water. I have crossed two rivers, and fancy 
one must be the Guaka. 



My party is now all dispersed. I have left behind 
one wagon and twenty-three oxen, in charge of two 
Kaffirs. Adonis and Isaac are gone into the fly 
(tsetse) to shoot on foot three or four days, due east 
from where I now write, where elephants are said to 
be plenty. 

I fell in with an Englishman, Poison by name, who 
came in by Walvish Bay, about fourteen or fifteen 
months ago, and has not yet got one load—a sorry 
prospect for me. We passed three or four evenings 
together very pleasantly, and assisted one another in 
the way of exchange. I got a gun and powder for 
ivory and beads ; it was a most agreeable break, and 
we were very jolly together, and sorry to part; at 
least, I speak for myself. 

I wished to leave a heavy lot of flesh for my 
Kaffirs during my absence, as they have no means of 
providing for themselves, but game was so scarce 
that I had two long blank days. On the third, how¬ 
ever, I got four quaggas, one eland, and a black rhi¬ 
noceros, despatched a wagon and pack oxen, and left 
them with abundance until my return. Somehow or 
other, I cannot come across any elephants. Though 
I see lots of spoor, and have had some weary days in 
search, they have managed always to elude me as 
yet. This morning, very early, I actually heard one 
scream, and, though we sallied out at once, and had 
the benefit of January’s spooring, we could never 
find him, and we were obliged to rest contented with 
two fat elands. 



2ith. — My plans are at present quite undecided. 
I think I have got nearly as far as it is possible to 
get. The country now in every direction is rugged, 
rocky, and very broken, with great hills and nume¬ 
rous rivers, and altogether an effectual barrier to any 
further attempts with a wagon ; added to which, the 
tsetse abound in all directions, and I cannot at all 
make out my whereabouts. The sun is intensely 
hot, and the nights and mornings bitterly cold. I 
think the thermometer must vary at least forty 
degrees in the twenty-four hours, and the country is 
decidedly most unhealthy at this season. Where on 
earth the elephants have got to, I cannot imagine. 

In my rambles yesterday, I came across another 
nation, calling themselves Batokas. They are horrid 
frights : it is their custom to knock out their four 
front teeth, and to file a small space between each of 
the under ones, and a more hideous lot of grinning 
wretches I never saw. I heard, as a reason for their 
thus disfiguring themselves, that they were anxious 
to resemble an ox as much as possible, that being, in 
their estimation, the noblest of animals. All the 
natives are immensely fond of cattle, but this is carry¬ 
ing their veneration rather far. I have also heard 
that they have a horror of looking like a quagga or 
zebra. Remarking on one of my fellows, they said 
he would be good-looking only for his front teeth. 
The teeth of a Kaffir are splendid, snow-white, 
sound and even, and set off the rest of his face to 
great advantage. 



I gleaned from the Batokas that an Englishman, 
whom from their description I guess to be Dr. Holden, 
whom I met on my return from the Lake last year, 
has knocked up a shanty close to their State, but he 
has no wagons or horses, and they volunteer to take 
me to him in three days on foot. They tell me he is 
on the banks of a large river, which must be the 
Chobe, and I am doubtful whether to look him up 
or not; if he should have gone, I shall have some 
tremendously hard work for nothing. My gun, ban¬ 
dolier, and ammunition, without which I never stir, 
weigh 18 lbs., and trudging under a broiling sun, 
even without this slight burden, is no easy matter, 
especially when you consider the bill of fare, which 
is flesh of some sort or other, salt, and water; I wish 
I could add bread, but I have no one to carry more 
than my blanket, as my people are all dispersed. 

29th .—After long arguments and reasoning with 
myself, I at last decided to go on foot to the Chobe, 
and learn from Dr. Holden my exact whereabouts, 
and when and where I was likely to reach the great 
Falls of the Zambesi, as I can gain no intelligence 
whatever from the natives, and I now believe firmly 
that none of them know themselves anything about 
it. I appointed to meet the Batokas on the third day, 
after in vain trying by bribery to induce them to come 
with me to the wagon, for I had great doubts in my 
own mind as to my finding the way back some 
twenty miles, without a guide, over so rough and 
broken a country. I reached the wagon in safety, 



and set off again to meet the Batokas, at break 
of day, accompanied by January carrying my blanket 
and a little spare ammunition, and got on well 
for a long distance, recognising many objects I had 
before noticed. At less than half the distance I got 
wrong. Eventually, by great perseverance, I got 
right again, and kept the direction for miles through 
thick bush, heaps of tsetse, and heavy sand, and at 
length reached the Batoka encampment — to find it 
deserted. Weary and jaded, we made some faint 
efforts to hit off their spoor, but lost all heart, as they 
had set the grass on fire in a hundred places, and the 
whole country looked as dreary and wretched as you 
can imagine. We retraced our weary steps till dark, 
when we made a fire and slept, and got back again 
last night, not a little proud of finding our way. 

My hopes of reaching the Zambesi, even on foot, are 
fied. The only consolation I have had is that I have 
shot another variety of antelope new to me, the gryse 
steinbuck. I had often heard of him, but had never 
seen him before; and now I know of but one single 
antelope that I have not myself shot, but must con¬ 
tent myself with a bought specimen — I mean the 

31st. — I am all alone. Boccas started yesterday 
into the fly country, and my other driver has been 
long there. I am off to-day to the Chobe river, two 
and a half days ahead, and shall endeavour to get 
through the fly in the night, the moon being now at 
the full ; at all events, I will chance a pair of horses. 



After being in the saddle all day, and seeing nothing, 
just as the sun went down, a giraffe bull stalked out 
of the bush half a mile from the wagon. I got Bat¬ 
wing saddled forthwith, and had a break-neck chevy 
after him over regular boulder stones by moonlight for 
some three miles, as hard as ever I could prevail on 
my nag to go, but he galloped in fear and trembling. 
At last, the stones, or rather rocks, became almost 
impassable even for the giraffe, and he had to slacken 
his enormous stride, and I, putting on a spurt, was 
alongside before he could get under weigh again, and 
rolled him over, to my great glee, as I am most 
anxious to be off, and I could not leave my wagon 
without a supply of flesh. 

August 4 th. —Zambesi Falls at last. I set off reso¬ 
lutely on the 1st, being determined to find the Falls, 
walked all day and all night, and towards morning I 
heard the roar of them. I never rested till I threw 
myself down, just before daybreak, within three hun¬ 
dred yards of the river, and I spent yesterday at the 
Falls, which far exceeded all I have been led to 
expect. Eougher travelling I never encountered, 
but I had the benefit of the full moon. 

I struck the river first about two miles above the 
Falls, and there it is not less than two miles wide, 
covered with islands of all sizes, one at least ten or 
twelve miles round, wooded to the water’s edge — 
mowana trees, palmyra and palms, and plenty of wild 
dates, some of the former measuring twenty yards 
round the bole. The river is the finest and most 



beautiful I ever saw. It is rocky and rather shallow, 
and, just above the Falls, about one mile wide. And 
now for the Falls. I heard the roar full ten miles 
off, and you can see the immense volumes of spray 
ascending like a great white cloud, over which shines 
an eternal rainbow. The whole volume of water 
pours over a huge rock into an enormous chasm 
below, of immense depth. I counted from sixteen 
to eighteen, while a heavy stone of about twenty 
pounds weight was falling. I could not see it to the 
bottom, but only saw the splash in the water. I 
stood opposite to the Falls at nearly the same eleva¬ 
tion, and could almost throw a stone across. The 
gorge cannot be more than a hundred yards wide, 
and at the bottom the river rolls turbulently 

You cannot see the largest falls for more than a 
few yards down, on account of the spray, and you 
are drenched with rain for a hundred yards round 
from the falling mist. It is one perpendicular fall 
of many hundred feet, and I should think there are no 
less than thirty or forty different cascades, of all widths. 
The gorge cannot be less than 2,000 yards long, and 
the outlet is not certainly more than forty yards wide. 
This outlet is not at the end of the gorge, though 
how far off I cannot say ; the streams meet, form a 
wild mad whirlpool, and then rush helter-skelter 
through the pass. Looking up the gorge from that 
point is the most magnificent sight I ever beheld. It 
is as if streams of brimstone fires were ascending high 



into the clouds. There was a never-ceasing rain for 
fifty, and in some places a hundred yards, on the high 
land opposite, and the rocks are very slippery, and 
the ground where there are no rocks is a regular 
swamp, where the hippopotamus,buffalo, and elephant 
come to graze on the green grass. There is one 
grand fall at the head of the gorge which you can see 
to the bottom, about eighty yards wide, but not so 
deep, as the river forms a rapid before it shoots 
perpendicularly over the rock. 

Below the Falls, the river winds about in a deep, 
narrow, inaccessible gorge — a strong, swift, rocky 
stream. I followed its windings for some distance, 
and, after all, was not more than two miles, as the 
crow flies, from the Falls. It is one succession of 
kloofs, valleys, mountains, and the worst walking I 
ever encountered. 

The river through this fearful gorge seems not 
wider than a swollen Highland torrent. The 
greatest drawback to the otherwise magnificent 
scene, is that the dense clouds rising from below 
render the main Falls invisible, and it is only the 
smaller cascades you can see to the bottom. There 
are some thirty or forty of these, spreading over a 
space of at least 1,500 yards. The Makololo are very 
jealous, and very much alarmed at my having found 
my way hither, and cannot account for it. I show 
them the compass, and say that is my guide, and they 
are sorely perplexed. The baboons here are out of 
all number. 



8th. — I saw the Falls from the opposite side 
yesterday, and also from above. ISTo words can 
express their grandeur. The view from above is, to 
my mind, the most magnificent; the water looks like 
a shower of crystal, and it is one perpendicular fall 
of immense height. There is only one outlet, and 
it is marvellous how such an immense body of water 
squeezes itself through so small an opening. 

I have punted for three days in all directions in 
the Makololo canoes, and could spend half my life on 
the waters. Dr. Livingstone is expected here to-day, 
and I am waiting to see him. 

9 th .— I had the honour, yesterday, of cutting 
my initials on a tree on the island above the 
Falls, just below Dr. Livingstone’s, as being the 
second European who has reached the Falls, and the 
first from the East Coast. 

Charles Livingstone says they far exceed Niagara 
in every respect, and the Doctor tells me that it is the 
only place, from the West Coast to the East, where 
he had the vanity to cut his initials. 

Masipootana, the captain (under Sekeletu) of the 
Makololo nation, was exceedingly savage that I had 
seen the Falls without any assistance from him or his 
people, and sent several messengers to say that I must 
pay him handsomely. On the third day I went to see 
him, and made him a small present, but he was quite 
on the high horse, and said, that now I had come 
across he would take care I did not go back again; I 
must stay there till I had paid him for the water I 



drank and washed in, the wood that I burned, the 
grass that my horses ate; and it was a great offence 
that I had taken a plunge into the river on coming, 
out of one of his punts; if I had been drowned, or 
devoured by a crocodile or sea-cow, Sekeletu would 
have blamed him, and had I lost my footing and 
fallen down the Falls, my nation would have said the 
Makololos had killed me; and, altogether, I had 
given him great uneasiness. As he put the matter in 
this light, I paid him about 6 lbs. of beads and was 
released. These beads were sent by Masipootana to 
Sekeletu, who afterwards returned them to me. 

I had some misgivings, at one time, as to our 
treatment — we were entirely in their power, and 
January was in such a taking that he could only just 
manage to drive back floods of tears. He thought it 
a very hard case indeed that he should be killed as 
well as I, as it was entirely my doing that he came 
at all, and very much indeed against his own will; and 
Masipootana endeavoured, I think, to frighten him, as 
he told me, when we were left alone at night, that 
they were going to take us out into the river and throw 
us overboard, and, in case we swam, pelt us on the 
heads with stones. 

The tsetse, too, spoilt much of my pleasure; and, 
to crown all, just as I was ready to start back to 
the wagon, I found both horses in pit-falls, the 
one coffin-shaped and the other round, narrowing 
towards the bottom, and about seven feet deep; 
the ground was clay, baked by the sun till it 



turned the edge of an American axe, and smoke 
flew from the blows as if you were striking stones. 
Towards midnight, with the aid of rheims and a 
large body of Kaffirs, I extricated them both, 
very badly bruised, and with horrid, unsightly scars 
and eyesores on them, but, fortunately, not seriously 
injured for actual work. Poor Snowdon suffered 
the most, as he had to sit up like a dog begging 
for many hours; the hole narrowed at the bottom 
and was some six inches deep in water, and with 
the clay he was regularly stuck there as if with 
plaster and mortar; the only wonder is that we did 
not pull both head and legs off him. I had buffalo 
rheims round all his fetlocks, fore and hind, also 
round his neck, and some eight Kaffirs attached to 
the ends of each, and so we hauled him bodily out, 
after we had cut a sort of inclined plane down 
towards him. We heard several skirmishes with 
rhinoceros and buffaloes at night, in the thick bush, 
both going and returning, but ensconced ourselves 
behind the trees till the fray was over. 

I have crossed three rivers between this and 
the Zambesi — the Manyati, Setabangumpe, and 

I consider myself very fortunate in meeting Dr. 
Livingstone and his party. I spent the evening with 
him, and gained great information about his recent 
discoveries. He has gone on to Sesheke. 

12th .—I returned to the wagon to-day, and found 
all right. 

D D 



18 th. — Just returned from my other wagon, 
where I had been to get some powder, lead, and caps, 
to trade with the Makololos. The day I started from 
this, just towards sun-set, I fell in with a troop of cow 
elephants, and gave a good account of them; there 
was scarcely more than half an hour’s sun, and 
consequently no time to lose, as we have hardly any 
twilight. I chased and shot fiercely at close quarters 
till quite dark, being well mounted, and bagged five; 
I let the best, however, escape. Having given her a 
bullet in the exact spot I wanted, I thought she could 
not possibly go far and left her, and she is free, though 
no doubt will die, but without benefiting me. I 
made up my mind for mischief on my return, but 
was two whole days in the saddle without coming 
across any more ; they are very scarce, and it behoves 
a man to do his very best, whenever and wherever he 
meets with them. A grey jackal, whose brush now 
adorns my hunting-cap, and a fine old bull roan 
antelope, completed my best day this year. Poor 
Snowdon is dead ; tsetse, sand-fly, midges, and gnats 
proved too many for him, together with the frightful 
struggles he made in the pit-fall, which no doubt 
hastened his death. Kebon, my fifty-guinea purchase, 
has turned out badly; he is so flat-footed as to be 
dead lame, and utterly useless, on stony ground. 
My hunters in the fly have not done so badly; ten 
or eleven, in all, I hear, and some big bulls, which 
help fast to make up a load. 

The Maccalacas Kaffirs rile me frightfully; during 



my absence they have set the velt on fire m 
a hundred places ; the grass is as dry as old tinder, 
and with the high wind we have daily it roars away 
for scores of miles, thus driving the little game there 
is away. What their object is, except to drive me 
away, I don’t know, as they have no cattle, sheep, or 

I shot a waterbuck yesterday, for no reason but 
just variety, as they are bad eating, but I want to see 
how many different kinds of antelopes are to be got 
in the interior of South Central Africa. From what 
Dr. Livingstone told me, I believe that I am now 
within a couple of days of the middle between the 
east and west coast, two days nearer the former. 

25 th .—My plans are entirely changed, and I intend 
now to make the best of my way to Mosilikatse’s 
country, as I have quite lost heart of finding elephants 
here, and the ground is so frightfully stony as to make 
our unshod horses dead lame in a few days. 

I was disappointed in trading any tusks from the 
Makololos, for some reason or other best known to 
themselves; but I believe the captain is exceedingly 
annoyed at a number of his men lent by his father to 
Dr. Livingstone remaining behind, and he blames the 
Doctor, who, he says, ought to have made them come 
back, and he is vexed also at the non-arrival of the 
cannon and horses which the Doctor was to have 
brought him—at least, so says my interpreter ; but 
I have not much faith in his veracity. 

Sept. 9 th. ■— Tamashaki. — I hardly know what I 

D D 2 



have done the last fortnight; I have been five conse¬ 
cutive days in the saddle, without finding elephants. 
I am now three days on my road back again—a weary, 
long journey, without water so far, and I shall be 
obliged to wait for rain before I can get out; besides 
which, the velt is now full of a poisonous herb, 
which is certain death in a few hours to oxen, so 
that we are obliged to be most cautious. Painter 
was left behind yesterday for dead ; thirst and the in¬ 
tense heat of the sun had, to all appearance, finished 
him; but, to my amazement, he turned up again this 
morning, having found his way in the night to our 
old outspanning place. 

The best of my stud, Ferus, yesterday got despe¬ 
rately staked in the breast. A wounded buffalo, which 
I was trying to drive towards the wagon-spoor, 
charged me most savagely, and none other but Ferus 
could have brought me safely out. It was a near 
thing for about one hundred yards, and when she was 
not two yards from my horse’s tail, taking advantage 
of an opening in the bush, I wheeled half round in 
the saddle, and gave her a bullet through her right 
ear and grazed the top of her back, without, how¬ 
ever, doing her any harm ; but she shortly gave up 
the chase, when I reloaded, dismounted, and shot her 
through the lungs dead. It was amongst hack-thorns, 
and my clothes were completely torn off my body. We 
had not a bite of anything at all at the wagon, and 
no near probability of getting anything, therefore I 
was rash, as a buffalo is a beast you cannot drive. 




The nipple of my gun broke short off in the worm 
the other day, and I tried every means to get it 
out for some time without effect, only making 
matters worse by breaking a plug short off that I 
had been hardening and shaping to lit all day. At 
last I made a drill bore, and succeeded beyond my 
most sanguine expectations, and she is now none the 
worse. I also put 3 lbs. of lead in the stock, as my right 
cheek and bone are nearly cut to pieces, and the blood 
at every shot runs into my mouth. We are obliged 
to load heavily for South African game ; six drachms 
are my smallest dose, and my powder this year is 
excellent. I only wish my nerves were as good. 

\ith. — Juvea .—I think it hardly possible for the 
country to be or look worse than now, and my poor 
oxen and horses have fallen off fearfully. All the 
vleys are dried up, and we only get a small quantity 
of water at the fountains after hard digging, and 
the little grass there is terribly dry. In the early 
mornings, evenings and night, it is so cold that there is 
ice in all the water-vessels, while the days are intensely 
hot; from ten to four it is hardly possible to trek; we 
sometimes have high, and often hot winds; game of 
all sorts is as thin as deal boards, and the fare, con¬ 
sequently, very indifferent. 

Last night I watched the w T ater, more out ot 
bravado than with any hopes of shooting anything, 
as Boccas got a fright the previous night that nearly 
drove him out of his wits. He had made a hole and 
covered it in with strong branches, and lots of grass and 



earth over, about 9 feet long by feet wide, and 
there lay in wait for elephants coining to drink. One 
savage cow got his wind, rushed up to the mouth 
of the hole, thrust her trunk in as far as possible, 
hammered away at the sides, and felt for him every¬ 
where, but could not reach him, and had not quite 
sagacity enough to throw off the branches, or she must 
have got him. He assures me she stayed full five 
minutes, and he could see nothing to shoot at but her 
fore feet and trunk. I was more fortunate ; I heard a 
brute in the water, peeped cautiously out of my 
hiding place, and just as she turned round after 
quenching her thirst, I gave her my bullet behind 
the shoulder, at a distance of twelve yards, with such 
force as to go right through her, and there were two 
streams of blood from the water to where we found 
her, about 1,000 yards off, dead this morning. My face 
is in such a bruised, discoloured state that my dearest 
friend would scarcely recognise me ; and no wonder, 
the reader will perhaps say; but in this night shooting 
you have only one chance, and if you don’t take ad¬ 
vantage of that, you have your long solitary watch 
for nothing. 

Tusks are gradually accumulating, and I shall 
have one good load at all events, but have let the 
best of the season go by, in my wild-goose chase 
after the Zambesi Falls. I shall trek out in about a 
month at farthest, and hope again to spend Christmas- 
day in Natal. 

I am going to sleep to-night at a fountain some 



ten miles off, called Zebizena, where I hear lots of 
elephants drink, and take the spoor from the water 
at daybreak, but it is hard work following spoor, as 
the elephants stand so far from the water; horse and 
man are wearied and jaded to death before finding 
them, and, if we get above the wind, we have no 
chance of ever seeing them. They have been perse¬ 
cuted this year much more than usual. All the 
stores are coming to an end, and I anticipate another 
hard bout of it, unless we get the rains which are 
now due, but I do not see the remotest chance of any. 
Ostrich eggs are now plentiful, but too rich and 
bilious for me to eat many of them ; I greatly prefer 
elephant’s heart. We have abundance and variety 
enough of animal food, but my people are most 
extravagant with the stores, and this year I have 
helped so many sick men as to leave myself almost 

2 Qth. — Still at Jurea, sick and tired. I know not 
why I take up my pen, unless to kill time, as I have 
nothing to log up. We found nothing at Zemizena 
but swarms of starved Maccalacas Kaffirs, and I have 
been very sick and ill since; I thought I was in for 
the fever. The elephants came once again while I 
was watching the water. I heard them a very long 
way off; at length the branches broke, and they came 
at a swinging pace, with a heavy tread, and in single 
file, within fourteen yards of where I was ensconced, 
and began pouring the water down their throats with 
a loud gurgling sound. I took the biggest behind 



the shoulder broadside sharp right and left, and the 
whole herd vanished like smoke; then came in¬ 
numerable hyenas, making the most appalling noise, 
fighting, running, and yelling like demons. I cannot 
imagine what was the cause, as I never heard them 
so before. I heard lions, and hoped they would come, 
but they did not; and, just before the morning star 
rose, feeling confident that no more elephants would 
come, I shot a hyena, and sent men off on the spoor 
of the wounded elephant. As it was Sunday, I would 
not go out to hunt myself. They found the herd, and 
the wounded one standing alone, some distance off, 
but the dogs chased him, and he eventually got clear 
away, and we have seen no more since ; we have shot 
elands, quaggas, wild boar, harrisbuck, and roan ante¬ 
lopes by the water, but nothing that will help to pay 
expenses. It is now too warm in the day to do any 
good ; I myself cannot stand it. The hack-thorns 
have torn all my clothes to rags; they are patched 
up in twenty places, and I am still hardly decent, 
even for the velt, where any mortal covering will 
do ; nothing but leather has any chance, and that is 
too hot. A little bacon still left, though shaded 
as much as possible from the sun in the very middle 
of the wagon, has almost all melted away ; my other 
wagon and two hunters are still behind, and I am in 
hopes they will kill a good number, as among the 
tsetse elephants are very numerous, but it is killing 
work for a white man on foot. I must go and try 
for a guinea-fowl or partridge by way of change, as 



I am quite tired of this strong living—buffalo, eland, 
or elephant day after day; I cannot eat quagga; and 
the smaller varieties of antelope are awfully dry, and 
the horses have now too little flesh to catch a giraffe. 

30 th [Sunday). — Malakanyama, a Maccalacas 
chief, came over to see me at Jurea, and besought 
me to shoot some game for him and his people, as 
they had fled from Mosilikatse and were starving. 
The Matabele had killed great numbers of them, 
when they at length showed fight — an unheard-of 
thing—killed two of the principal captains, and are 
now in daily expectation of a large commando coming 
in quest of them. 

Boccas shot twenty-three head in all, myself seven¬ 
teen, chiefly rhinoceros and buffalo, and two ele¬ 
phants. He killed three harrisbuck with one bullet, 
an extraordinary shot by moonlight; and last night, 
he and I, by the water, killed four rhinoceros and 
four buffaloes. Every vestige of the meat disappeared 
at once, but we have left the poor fellows a large 
lot of dried flesh to go on with. Malakanyama was 
very grateful, and sent me a present of four tusks, 
which paid well for powder and lead. 

I lost the wagons for seven days, during five of 
which I had not a bite of anything but flesh. I did 
not lose myself, but it was owing to a mistake the 
wagon took the wrong road, and Batwing ran away 
back to the place from which I started, about forty 
miles, finding his way in a most miraculous manner. 
The Kaffirs on his spoor eventually brought him back, 



to my great joy, as the chances were about three to 
one in favour of a lion making a meal of him. 

By-the-by, I shot a very fine old manikin lion, but 
having no arsenical soap was unable to preserve the 
skin, and the claws and skull are all that I have got 
as a trophy. I was alone watching the water when 
he came, and I killed him dead within fourteen 
yards. Three buffaloes, one white rhinoceros bull, 
one quagga, a lion, and an elephant, fell to my rifle 
that night, my best night’s shooting. My bullets 
were reduced to five, and, not having an idea when 
or where I was likely to find my wagon or horse, 
and being entirely alone, I was in no enviable posi¬ 
tion, and had some fear of hunger before my eyes ; 
but I succeeded in bagging two buffaloes and one 
quagga, and had still two bullets left when the horse 
made his appearance. The wagon came the fol¬ 
lowing morning, and I enjoyed the luxury of a cup 
of tea, and a little boiled maccaroni. Poison’s wagon 
accompanied mine, and I took leave of him yester¬ 
day, our roads lying in opposite directions: he goes 
by Walvish Bay to the Cape, and has some desperate 
hard work before him, as his wagon has not less 
than 4,000 lbs., and his oxen are young, light, lean, 
and weak. He will take at least four good months 
to reach Walvish Bay, if he accomplish it in that 

A sick ox and horse are waiting to be doctored; 
the latter I hope may pull through, but the former 
I must leave behind, I fear. I shall wait at Nanta, 


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three days ahead, for my other wagon, and then, 
after the first rains, go out together. 

Adonis has killed four more large bulls; he runs 
with the speed and endurance of an ostrich, and is 
one of the very best shots, in all Africa. With these 
accomplishments of nature, if his heart was only 
in the right place, he might, in a few years, make a 
fortune, but even a moderate amount of pluck has 
not fallen to his share. Nothing would induce him 
to watch the water at night, even in company, and 
the roar of a lion at night makes him take himself 
off at his best pace at once. Still, he is the best man 
this year of my party, heading me in elephants by 
two, and he is on foot and I on horseback; but he 
is in the midst of numbers, while I seldom find one; 
the tsetse prevent my being able to go into their 

My plans are now to go on horseback to Mosili- 
katse, if he will receive me, to ask him what I must 
pay him to give me a hunting-velt next year, and 
send him also presents to the amount of about 15/.; 
but I shall be no loser by doing this, as he is certain 
to send me in return, if he accepts them, more than 
an equivalent. It is about seven days from here 
to his State, I believe ; but it is almost impossible to 
get at the truth from any enquiries amongst the 
natives here, as he is so much dreaded by one and 
all, that they are positively afraid to speak of him. 

Oct. 8th. — Nanta. -— I take up my pen to kill 
time, as it weighs very heavily on my hands just 



now. I am out of sorts both in body and mind, 
and anxiously awaiting the arrival of my second 
wagon, which is overdue, and this is the place I 
fixed to wait for it, and a more comfortless, barren, 
desolate spot no human being could conceive. 
There is neither grass, wood, nor water ; the sun is 
intensely hot, and there is no shade of any sort, and 
we have had three successive days of hot furnace-like 
winds. Nevertheless, we have been labouring our 
utmost to get a supply of fresh water for the oxen, 
and have dug large holes in different places; but 
though the water is drinkable at first, after an hour’s 
exposure to the sun it is as salt as brine. To add to 
our discomfiture, our only spade has broken through 
the middle ; still we contrive to kill enough game 
for actual necessity, but the meat will not keep many 
hours, and, worst of all, my oxen are dying daily. 
I make a post-mortem examination, but am no wiser. 
I know neither the disease nor the cure. They swell 
up to an enormous size, drink gallons of this brackish 
stuff, and, when opened, are full of a nasty yellowish 
water. I tried bleeding without any good effect, and 
this morning have tried cutting the skin where most 
swollen, and letting the water run out. 

The Masaras say there is not a drop of water 
ahead, and what is to be done I do not myself 
know. I was far down the river this morning and 
found better water, and have sent the oxen thither. 
The Kaffirs showed me a white man’s grave; I can 
learn no particulars as to the person buried there, 



but a more desolate spot to lay one’s bones can 
hardly be conceived: I only hope such a fate may 
not be mine. I was very nearly losing two of my 
horses; they went back in search of water at night, 
and at daylight we started on the spoor. Boccas was 
first, and saw two lions lie in waiting; he was 
within fifteen yards when he first perceived them, 
fired at the head of one and jumped into a tree; 
fired again out of the tree, wounding one, when they 
made off, and five minutes after, the lost horses came 
trotting down to the water. The lions were as thin 
as planks ; they had not killed anything, and would 
have pounced on the horses instantly, but it is not 
their usual practice to kill game in the day-time. 

I have no appetite, and trail my limbs after me as 
if they did not belong to me ; it is a great exertion 
to get into the wagon, and my system is fearfully 
enervated. There are wild ducks here, but I have 
not energy enough in my whole frame to go and 
shoot them, though they are not 200 yards off. I 
send my youngsters to stir them up, and take my 
chance of a dinner as they come past, and, as they 
keep the river in their flight, I generally intercept 
one or two as they come past, with the same small 

11th .—Wearied to death : still at Nanta, waiting 
for my other wagon, and no news, good or bad, of it 
as yet. No Kaffir can keep an appointment. My 
oxen are not in a fit state to retrace their steps, 
and my horses are equally poor ; two of the former 



are dead, and one of tlie latter is useless, on account 
of a sore back. I unsaddled him when hot, the 
sun blistered him, and then rolling in the sand 
and fine stones completed the business. Not being 
able to get two loads of ivory, I am preparing or 
curing heads, male and female, of all sorts that are 
to be met with here, but there is no great variety. 
This salt water has been of inestimable value to my 
wagon wheels ; I have let them all soak for twenty- 
four hours, and they are now as tight as drum-heads. 
We had the tail of a passing thunder shower last 
night, but all appearance of rain has vanished this 
morning, and the wind still continues in the old 
quarter from which it invariably blows—due east. 

I am considerably better again, and hope I may 
now altogether escape the fever ; I have had two or 
three twinges, but have thrown it off so far, and now 
trust I may escape this year. Yesterday the heat 
was so intense that I could not even bear the palms 
of my hands on the sand, while I was trying to creep 
up to some ducks; from hard work, the covering is 
much more like horn than skin. 

1 §tli .—flow I have managed to kill the last five 
days, and how to get rid of the next ten or fifteen, is 
a perfect puzzle. I can find nothing in the world to 
do, but very little to eat, and that little by no means 
tempting; wood next to none; and I have drunk 
almost enough brackish, nauseous water to share the 
fate of Lot’s wife. Boccas set off two days ago in search 
of my other wagon, a good 200 miles at least, back 



again. The weather has been long threatening rain, 
and this afternoon a very few heavy drops have 
fallen, but I think it can hardly pass entirely away 
without a downfall. It is almost as bad as being 
becalmed on the Line. 

To break the sameness of the thing, three Macca- 
lacas Kaffirs were to show me some fresh elephant 
spoor, and I shot three springbuck for them, made 
bullets, and started ; and when I had got about ten 
miles away, they told me it was old spoor, that I had 
better turn back, and that they were going to their 
kraals, and then deliberately set down my blan¬ 
ket, &c, to continue their journey. I waited my 
opportunity quietly; made a savage onset on one, 
wrested his assegais and kerry from him, broke one 
of the former over his head, jumped on Ferus, a hot¬ 
headed, hard-mouthed horse, rode right over a second, 
sending him, salt, kalabash, fells, &c., in all directions, 
and hurled the broken weapon at the third. Two of 
them fell on their knees, begging for life, and the 
third sped like an ostrich over the velt. I gave 
them a little good advice, not to try and humbug an 
Englishman again, and left them. 

A Masara told me he had seen a lion not far off, 
and I immediately went in pursuit, inviting Spear¬ 
man and January, but they declined, not being 
ashamed to confess they were afraid. The Masara 
was afraid, too, but he went eventually, and we took 
the lion’s spoor for about half a mile, when the 
Masara ran away, making frightful gesticulations. 



We were approaching the lion from above the 
wind, and the old brute was wide awake. On 
first perceiving him, about sixty yards off, he was 
half crouched under some thick thorns, facing me, 
and intently watching my every movement, but 
before I was on the ground to shoot he turned and 
made off, and I went after him. He went away only 
leisurely, and I might have shot at him from behind 
more than once, but I thought, if I headed him and 
got below the wind, he would stand. Eerus was 
ready to hunt him, but immediately he got the lion’s 
wind he became very much alarmed, snorting and 
very restive. The old manikin, likewise, on heading 
him, growled savagely and shot into some very dense 
underwood—his stronghold, in fact—where, without 
dogs, it would have been insanity to follow him; so 
I left him, consoling myself that, even if I had shot 
him, he was only a yellow-maned one, and his skin, 
from poverty, not worth preserving. 

It has hitherto always been my choice to be alone, 
but I now feel my solitude so much that I am deter¬ 
mined, on any future journey, to take a companion 
with me. I have two Masara boys about eight years 
old, and January, by the wagon, and that is all. The 
two former, though they understand every word, and 
are most useful and handy, are mute as mice, though 
I never speak cross to them, and they are to all ap¬ 
pearance as happy as the day is long, and make row 
enough by themselves; but when I try to converse 
with them, they hang down their heads like dogs 



convicted of sheep-worrying, and January laughs 
like a born idiot. Spearman, the ox-vachter, some¬ 
times comes, but he has got hold of a Dutch psalm 
tune, the most horrid concoction on earth, which he 
is everlastingly humming, and which drives me quite 
distraught; so I generally greet his appearance with 
a kick that sends him howling back again. 

HPA.—I have so persecuted the widgeon here, that 
the remaining four out of seventeen are uncommonly 
shy, and whip under the lee-bank of the river with 
the swiftness of sand martins. And I must not for¬ 
get to mention some rabbit-shooting I have had, 
which has reminded me more of England than any¬ 
thing since I left. Eabbits are the same all over the 
world, and excellent sport; these differ in no respect 
from those at home, but they have no holes. I found 
them all lying out, but could make no hand at them 
the first two days, as I gave them too much law; but 
I got into it the third, bagging five couple. Some 
rascal Masara has stuck one of my oxen, Pontac, an 
especial favourite, which I broke in myself. I have 
sewn up the wound, and have hopes of him, unless 
the assegai is poisoned. He and his mate Claret, so 
named from the resemblance in colour, are about the 
prettiest pair of Zulus I ever saw, and better were 
never yoked. 

Dull and lonely as it is, I could manage to get over 
the day, but the nights are dreadful. When the sun 
goes down, the wind invariably does the same; then 
come mosquitoes, midges, gnats, and sand-flies, and 



the air is as close as a draw-well. I can hardly en¬ 
dure a rag over me, and I lie on my back slapping 
right and left, here, there, and everywhere, taking 
hundreds of lives without diminishing the buzz, and 
praying for morning or a breeze of wind, and getting 
up occasionally to look at the stars, and see how far 
the night has advanced. Even if I can, at times, 
bear a blanket over me, it is not much protec¬ 
tion, unless I can manage to raise it an inch or so 
with my knees and elbows, as the mosquitoes bite 
through it. I dread a still night above everything, 
and would give, at times, all I possess for a wind, 
when the mosquitoes vanish. 

‘ Sar, here come a folstrens on,’ was January’s 
intimation to me about an hour and a half ago, and 
I abandoned my pen for my rifle, and have been 
creeping under the river-banks in the hopes he would 
come to drink, keeping parallel with him for about 
three miles ; but he had drunk, I suppose, as he never 
came nearer than 600 yards. 

24 th .—No news yet of the wagon. I have been 
waiting more than three weeks, and can now neither 
eat, drink, nor sleep, as there is neither food nor 
drink to be got, and the mosquitoes and midges take 
care I shall not sleep. I have become wrinkled and 
haggard; and, if my telescope, which I use as a 
looking-glass, does not belie my appearance, prema¬ 
turely aged. My tea and coffee are all but finished, 
and I must reserve a little of the latter for night- 
work, to keep us awake when going out, as it is 



simply impossible to move in the day-time across 
these heavy sands in the hot, parching winds. The 
water here gets more and more salt daily, it is 
nauseous both to taste and smell; and the game has 
been so persecuted that it has entirely left this part, 
and nothing is now to be seen. I have reduced the 
ducks to a couple, with a vast amount of perseverance, 
and have slain this morning, I verily believe, the last 
rabbit within a circle of eight miles ; the Kaffirs 
have lately had nothing but these to live on. JSTo 
rain comes, and all appearance of rain has vanished. 
I started at dawn of day to shoot a giraffe, a weary 
way across the desert, to some makolani trees ; found 
eight, and shot one, a cow, when Ferus got away from 
me, and never let me come within gunshot of him 
till he made the wagon. I was never so exhausted 
in my life ; the heat was beyond all description, and 
I was sore afraid I should be sun-struck, as my 
leathern cap was as hot as an oven. I could not rest, 
or even stoop down to tie my shoe, which came un¬ 
done, as the sands were burning hot, and there was 
no shade for a good twelve miles of desert. The 
dogs remained behind, and did not come back till 
near midnight; and I should have been wise to 
follow their example, but I could not bear up so 
long against thirst; it gave me the greatest pain to 
swallow, and I suffered much, but after two hours in 
the shade I was all right again. To-morrow I fully 
expect to hear some tidings of the wagon, and I shall 
bless the day I get out of this, though the Kaffirs 

E E 2 



say there is neither game nor water ahead. The great 
Salt-pan, in which the Zonga river loses itself, is only 
a couple of hours west, and there is often a hurricane 
blowing across the desert, with clouds of dust and hot 
winds. I think my ox Pontac will recover, but 
Eingals, the best front ox ever inspanned, is dead. 

27 th .-—I have managed to supply the larder abund¬ 
antly, with two rhinoceros and two elands ; all lean 
as crows, however, and very bad fare. I had to go a 
weary way in search of them, and the flesh was gone 
bad ere it reached the wagon; but this morning I 
had not much trouble with an old black bull rhino¬ 
ceros. I was lying half asleep a little after sunrise, 
the mosquitoes having at last given me a little peace, 
when he came to the water. I gave my rifle fifteen 
drachms of coarse powder, as it was an open flat, 
and I resolved to make short work of him. I crept 
close to him, as he was drinking with his head in a 
hole, and shot him through the lungs dead, with the 
first barrel, which was just as well, as the cap of the 
second barrel sprang off with the recoil, and though 
I tried to give him a second pill, as he went away 
for 500 or 600 yards, it was a case of snap, of course. 

I made bad work of an ostrich yesterday, but the 
glare of the sun on the sand of the dry bed of a river 
was too much for me ; my eyes smarted, and I was 
more than half mazed, and though I succeeded in 
stalking within 200 yards, I felt sure I should miss 
him, as I was as shaky as if I had got the palsy, and 
I accordingly did miss him. The hardships of an 




African hunter are great, that is, if he really follows 
up his game. I breakfasted yesterday about 2 p.m. on a 
raw talo, a root somewhat resembling a huge potato, 
but soft, sweet, and moist. Had a most refreshing 
drink of water out of the paunch of a quagga, a 
horrid thing to drink out of, and which requires 
great skill, but, notwithstanding, it is the very best 
thing one can carry water in, as evaporation takes 
place, and though the sun is burning hot, the water 
is remarkably cool and good. In any other water 
utensil it would be as hot as charcoal. There is a 
bonny medley of things lying around my wagon — 
heads and horns of all descriptions ; lions’ and 
wolves’ skulls ; ostrich eggs; jackal and wild-cat 
skins; koodoo, tsessebe, wildebeest, springbuck, 
rhinoceros horns and ears; great lumps of salt; 
dry flesh hanging up; rheims, neck-straps, and 
yokeskeys ; guinea-fowls, ducks and geese, pheasant 
and partridge feathers in all directions ; rabbit-skins 
without number; pots, pans, dog-meat ; ostrich 
feathers ; buffalo and eland hide. This is what I 
cast my eyes on from where I now sit; such a chaos 
I never beheld. 

Nov. . — I think it is Sunday, but every¬ 
thing is so monotonous, I have nothing to mark the 
flight of time, and I may just as likely be out of 
my reckoning as not. No news of the missing 
wagon. The old saying, 6 ill news flies fast,’ is rather 
consoling to me, as I now really begin to think there 
has been some foul play somewhere. I place every 



confidence in Boccas, whom I started three weeks 
ago, with the strictest injunctions to let me know the 
cause of the delay without a moment’s loss of time, 
and he had my favourite and best horse, Batwing. If 
the Mosilikatse’s Kaffirs, or any others, have made 
an end of my Kaffirs and men left in charge, my 
losses will amount in all to 500/. ; wagon, oxen, 
stores, guns, horse, and 500 lbs. of ivory that I 
know of, besides probably much more, and some of 
the finest heads and horns, of different sorts, of the 
rarest antelopes I ever saw. We have been particu¬ 
larly fortunate this year, and shot an incredible 
number, over 400 head, I think. I left meal, sugar, 
and dried fruits, also behind, and am myself totally 
without anything of the sort. I am positively in rags, 
and my flesh resembles boiled lobster more than 
anything else, being literally roasted with the sun. 
The pain is very great, and all for want of a needle. 
I had four in my hat on leaving the wagon, but they 
have all got lost; I might have saved the life of an 
ox or two, had I only had a couple of pins. I bled 
one, and tried to take up the vein with a thorn in 
lieu of a pin, but it broke in the night, the vein 
burst open again and the ox bled to death, and I 
have been afraid to venture a second time. What 
riles me most is, that the other wagon had more 
than enough of all these requisites; but I have not 
yet quite lost all hope of its turning up some day 
or other. 

The days are so intensely hot, that it is impossible 



to stir, and the moon is just seven days past the full; 
therefore, I must now wait fourteen days, so as to 
have the full benefit of it, and then, if I hear nothing 
previously, start myself in search, a good 250 miles, 
without other meat or drink of any sort than what 
my rifle will provide me with—which is precarious, 
to say the least of it—and then back again another 
250 miles. It has rained about forty or fifty miles 
ahead at the Qualeba, and I hear that the young 
grass is fast springing up, and that there is plenty of 
water. As the residue of my oxen are wretched in 
appearance, and keep on dying, I shall start to¬ 
morrow on the oxen’s account, and see if I can come 
there, but I have great misgivings, as the wagon is 
very heavy and I am but a poor driver ; however, I 
cannot stay longer here. We have been most pro¬ 
videntially sustained with a good supply of meat all 
along; two more rhinoceros, an eland, springbuck, 
quagga, tsessebe, roan antelope, pallah, and blue 
wildebeest having succumbed, and weeks ago I 
thought the last head had taken itself off to other 

Now for an adventure with a lion, which I have 
reserved for the last. On Friday the old Masara 
captain paid me a visit; he had seen a lion on the 
path, and left a lot of Masaras to watch him. I 
had been working hard all day in the hot sun with 
an adze, making a dissel-boom for the wagon, and 
was tired, lame, and shaky in the arms, and did 
not feel at all up to the mark for rifle-shooting; 



but I ordered Ferus to be saddled, who was also 
not at all fresh, having had a tremendous burst in 
the morning across a flat, after a lean eland cow. 
Just after I caught sight of about twenty-five 
Masaras sitting down, all armed to the teeth with 
shields and assegais, my attention was attracted to a 
Kaffir skull, which struck me as a bad omen, and the 
thought entered my head, that it might be my fate 
to lay mine to bleach there. I did not, however, 
suffer this thought to unnerve me, but proceeded, 
and found that the lion had decamped. The Masaras 
followed his spoor about a couple of miles, when he 
broke cover. I did not see him at first, but gave 
chase in the direction in which the Masaras pointed, 
saw him, and followed for about 1,000 yards, as 
he had a long start, when he stood in a nasty thorn 
thicket. I dismounted at about sixty or seventy 
yards, and shot at him; I could only see his outline, 
and that very indistinctly, and he dropt so instanta¬ 
neously, that I thought I had shot him dead. I 
remounted and reloaded, and took a short circle, 
and stood up in my stirrups to catch a sight of him. 
His eyes glared so savagely, and he lay crouched in 
so natural a position, with his ears alone erect, the 
points black as night, that I saw in a moment I had 
missed him ; I was then about eighty yards from 
him, and was weighing the chances of getting a shot 
at him from behind an immense ant-heap, about 
fifteen yards nearer. I had just put the horse in 
motion with that intention, when on he came with a 

Ka-nhai-l:, Imp 




tremendous roar, and Ferns whipt round like a top, 
and away at full speed. My horse is a fast one, and has 
run down the gemsbok, one of the fleetest antelopes, 
but the way the lion ran him in was terrific. In an 
instant I was at my best pace, leaning forward, 
rowels deep into my horse’s flanks, looking back over 
my left shoulder, over a hard flat excellent galloping 
ground. On came the lion, two strides to my one. 
I never saw anything like it, and never want to do so 
again ; to turn in the saddle and shoot darted across 
my mind, when he was within three strides of me, 
but on second thoughts I gave a violent jerk on the 
near rein, and a savage dig at the same time with 
the off heel, armed with a desperate rowel, just in 
the nick of time, as the old manikin bounded by me, 
grazing my right shoulder with his, and all but 
unhorsing me, but I managed to right myself by 
clinging to the near stirrup-leather. He immediately 
slackened his speed ; as soon as I could pull up, 
which was not all at once, as Ferus had his mettle up, 
I jumped off, and made a very pretty and praise¬ 
worthy shot, considering the fierce ordeal I had just 
passed (though I say it who ought not), breaking his 
hind leg at 150 yards off, just at the edge of the 
thicket. Fearful of losing him, as the Masaras were 
still flying for bare life over the velt, with their 
shields over their heads, and I knew nothing would 
prevail on them to take his spoor again, I was 
in the saddle, and chasing him like mad in an 
instant. His broken leg gave me great confidence, 



though he went hard on three legs ; and I jumped off 
forty yards behind him, and gave him the second 
barrel, a good shot, just above the root of the tail, 
breaking his spine, when he lay under a bush 
roaring furiously, and I gave him two in the chest 
before he cried 6 enough.’ He was an old manikin, 
fat and furious, having only four huge yellow blunt 
fangs left. Then I had to hunt up the Masaras, who, 
of course, never came near, nor never would have 
done so, if he had taken a day and a half to eat up 
my carcase. The gloomy forebodings which the 
skull gave rise to at starting, were much nearer being 
fulfilled than I reckoned for ; and why a man risks his 
life for no earthly gain, is a problem I cannot solve. 
I only know this, there is a secret feeling of inward 
satisfaction at having conquered, that is almost 
worth the risk to be run, though there are no ap¬ 
plauding friends or spectators present. I wish my 
powers of description equalled those of a Masara; I 
think I never enjoyed a greater treat than to hear 
one of them describe this adventure. I did not un¬ 
derstand a word he said, but his gestures and attitudes 
were splendid ; his eyes flashed fire, he broke out 
into a streaming perspiration, and mimicked the lion 
so perfectly, as to make me feel quite cold. It would 
be impossible to surpass his imitation of the horse 
galloping, with myself spurring him, and all the 
other incidents of the chase. I had the satis¬ 
faction of seeing that I held the very first place in 
his estimation, and ever since the Masaras have 



paid me great attention, bringing wood and water 

My waking thoughts and midnight dreams are 
of the missing wagon, and I cannot help thinking 
that something serious has happened. The Kaffirs 
have only one punishment — death, for every 
offence ; and Mosilikatse has been jealous of our 
hunting without his permission, as he claims the 
country, and there is no law here but that of the 

I shall go in search with a revolver, as well as my 
rifle, to guard against surprise, and then I should 
not be much afraid if I were well mounted ; but my 
poor nag is all skin and bone, and I am afraid he 
will not stand the journey. 

9 th. — I have got over some sixty miles of the 
journey. Twenty hours in the yoke without water, 
three rivers which we crossed being dry; at length we 
came to some pits, and after working hr the broiling 
sun, clearing them out like galley-slaves, eight only 
of my unfortunate oxen were able to get any water, 
and this they drank out of a zinc bucket. In this 
emergency a Masara told me he had seen a little rain 
water in a vley a long way off, and after a great deal 
of wrangling, not having any beads to pay him, he 
agreed to show me the water, if I, in return, shot him 
a giraffe. To these terms I at once joyfully acceded, 
and he set off with the vachter and the poor oxen, 
and yesterday I fulfilled my share of the compact, 
but not without great difficulty. After no end of 



hunting, I at length sighted one giraffe-cow, going at 
a slapping gallop a long way ahead over a villanous 
country covered with scrub bush; but Ferus at 
length managed to get up to her. I was doing all I 
knew to head the giraffe from a thick forest of 
makolani trees, and she strained every nerve and 
sinew to gain her point. Ferus was going splendidly, 
and fifty yards more must have finished the business, 
as I was then not more than eighty yards off, when 
over and over he rolled in a hole, like a rabbit shot at 
full speed, and I, standing up in my stirrups leaning far 
forward, was shot a prodigious distance, clear out of 
all harm’s way. I was on my legs in a minute, but my 
gun barrels were so covered with dust and old dead 
roots of grass, which we had managed to tear up, 
that I could not see the sight. I rapidly gave my 
gun a brush with the cuff of my coat and shouldered 
her again. The giraffe was at least 200 yards off, and 
I struck her with both barrels, the first within an inch 
of the hip-bone, the second through the fleshy part of 
her off hind leg, but without doing her any injury. I 
fully calculated on a walk back, but, for a wonder, 
I managed to recapture my nag. I took up the 
spoor, and found the giraffe lying dead less than a 
mile off. 

11 th [Sunday).—Matibele [a Fountain). — Got 
here yesterday, after a journey of three days 
from Qualeba, smoking hot and dog-tired, and I 
vowed over and over again that nothing but sheer 
necessity should ever compel me to come again to 



this thirst-land. The oxen, hollow and flat-sided, did 
nothing but low, and when outspanned kept on the 
track, and would not stand or eat a moment. The 
ground w T as so hot that the poor dogs to whom I gave 
water could not stand still to drink, but had to keep 
moving their feet; the velt is, if possible, gradually 
getting worse and worse, and it is three hard days to 
the next water. I was never before in such a strait, 
and the Masaras positively refuse to go with me, as they 
say there is no water. The fiend assuming the shape 
of a Masara, who was the cause of my leaving Nanta, 
by his assurance of green grass and abundance of 
water, vanished in the night, or I should have 
crippled him for life at least, and I have been forced 
into coming thus far to save the lives of my oxen, 
and people, and self; it has added another hundred 
miles to my journey back in search of my other 
wagon, and I must now give up the idea altogether, 
as I am sure my poor horse will never accomplish it. 
I place every confidence in the people I left in 
charge of the wagon; if they are alive they will 
bring it out, and if dead I could not bring the 
wagon out myself, but should most probably share 
their fate. I shall therefore do all I can to get out 
with what I have, a bird in the hand being worth two 
in the bush ; but this is but poor consolation for a 
loss of at least 500/. 

12th. —I dread more what I am just now about to 
undertake than I ever dreaded anything before. It is 
three long days to the next water; heavy sand most 



of the way, the wagon also heavy, the near hind 
axle-tree sprung ; and no offer whatever will induce 
a Masara to go with me, as they dread sun and 
thirst too much. I must, however, attempt it, as I 
am greatly in need of a change of food, and 
thoroughly sick of meat, meat, meat, without anything 
besides. No news, good, bad, or indifferent, of the 
other wagon. I have long since ceased making conjec¬ 
tures, but must first replenish my stores, and then 
go in search. There is little use in waiting for the 
chance of rain, as Dr. Livingstone told me, that when 
he was living at Kolobeng, Sechele’s country, it never 
once rained for five years. The trees, notwithstand¬ 
ing the drought, are all fast coming into leaf again, 
and the bush is getting green and thick, so that 
there is no more hunting; besides, the unhealthy 
season is just beginning, and it is high time to get 
out into a better climate. Driving my own wagon is 
cruel hard work, very different from walking, lying, 
riding in the wagon, or on horseback, just as my in¬ 
clination tended; now my hands are all scars and 
sores from the oxen’s horns, and I am quite hoarse 
with calling and shouting at them. 

YJtli. — We are now at the Eiver Mesa, which we 
reached two days ago. I had miscalculated the dis¬ 
tance, it being four days instead of three ; but I got a 
little water for my oxen half way, in a vley. That 
indefatigable, careless vagabond, January, hit off a 
Bushman’s spoor and caught him up, and though he 
assured him positively that there was no water, that 



the vley he drank out of was dry, and that he was 
just then starting himself in search, yet, when the 
news reached me, I outspanned at once, saddled up 
and took my gun, and made the Bushman show us 
a vley where there was barely sufficient, but it was 
worth its weight in gold to me. About four miles ere 
reaching this, my pole pulled out of the iron bolt, and 
the oxen walked on quite unconcerned, leaving the 
wagon a fixture. I remedied this temporarily with 
the rheim-chain, making the pole fast with rheims 
round the fore tongue just for the two after-oxen to 
steer by, and got here without further mishap ; 
yesterday I put in a new dissel-boom, and intended 
to proceed when the sun had sunk a few hours. 

Dog-tired, I went fast asleep as soon as I lay down, 
and never awoke till the morning-star rose, when I 
heard lions roaring, and immediately jumped up to 
see if my horses and oxen were all right. I was 
horrified at seeing no signs of either, sent the Kaffirs 
off at once, and now came the climax of all my mis¬ 
fortunes. January had never made the oxen fast, 
though he had seen five lions in the afternoon, and 
poor Ferus and Kebon lay dead within sixty yards 
of one another and some 600 from the wagon, the 
latter, who was in very fair condition, being entirely 
devoured; Ferus was untouched. They cost me 
90/. cash, and I should have got at least 120/. for 
them, had I wished to sell. At sunset the Kaffirs 
returned, reporting the deaths of Yambrown and 
Scotland, two of my middle oxen, devoured by 



lions. They had followed the oxen’s spoor several 
hours, and eventually brought back all the rest, and 
we made a strong kraal and kept watch all night, with 
several large fires round, but, apparently satisfied 
with what they had already done, the lions did not 
pay us another visit. It is vexatious to suffer such a 
loss through the carelessness of the Kaffirs, but I must 
make some allowance for them ; the poor lads were 
as dead beaten as myself with our four days and 
nights forced march. 

I have no brass wire, beads, or anything to trade 
a goat or sheep, or a little Kaffir corn from the 
Kaffirs, and can shoot nothing now on foot but small 
dry bucks, or a quagga or other rubbish, hardly 
eatable, and I shall have a hard bout of it now, ere 
I once more reach civilisation. When I do reach it, 
I shall not be in a hurry to leave it again. I am 
writing with a mixture of coffee and gunpowder. 

In about eighteen or twenty-one days, if all goes 
well, I hope to reach Sechele’s, where I may reckon 
on a few comforts from the German missionaries ; 
but the wagon runs heavily, squeaking all the way, 
and the wheels are as dry as tinder, and where now 
to procure a bit of grease to smear them with, I do 
not know. 

I had not even the satisfaction of shooting one of 
the lions, as it was mid-day ere I found the horses, 
and there were then no traces to be seen of them. 
January had taken himself off, sneaking back in 
the night. 



18th .—Rain at last, but only in heavy passing 
showers. I am now outspanned under the very same 
tree as three years ago on my return from Mosilikatse’s 
with Martinus Swartz. I little expected then ever 
to be here again, as I had a very hard bout of it 
that time. I have led but a vagrant sort of life since 
then, doing little good for myself or anybody else, 
except supplying the ungrateful, half-starved Masaras 
and Maccalacas with abundance of flesh. I have 
scarcely ever been still, and must have journeyed over 
some twelve or fifteen thousand miles at least, and 
that at much less than foot pace, having been through 
the Transvaal Republic, Free State, and part of the 
Old Colony, twice down to Natal, and twice round 
Lake Ngami, and now over the Zambesi into 
Makololo and Batoka lands; and it is now, I think, 
nearly time to call a halt. 

I have this morning come over some very heavy 
sand-bolts, with thick trees, and sharp, short turns, 
entirely to my own satisfaction, with a very heavy 
wagon and the loss of two of my oxen, and I take 
a deal of merit to myself. It is rather exciting 
work, and, if I had only food, I should not mind it at 
all. I have got once more into a hilly country, which 
quite gladdens my eye after the immense amount of 
flat, uninteresting country I have lately passed over. 

2RA. — I have endless difficulties to contend with 
in the way of writing fluid, having lost my ink-bottle, 
and have nothing but a little tea and coarse gun¬ 
powder in a bullet-mould, which oozes out fast. I 



got on well for three days, when I lost the way and 
got under the Bamangwato Hills, the roughest and 
thickest bush a wagon ever encountered. I was con¬ 
gratulating myself that we should come to Letloche 
next day, where I should get into a beaten path, 
and the worst of my difficulties would be over, when 
at last the tent of my wagon was carried bodily away 
with a crash, horridly grating to my ears. Guns, 
telescope, oil-flask, ostrich feathers, and a variety of 
things made fast thereon, went with it, and the two 
sails, torn from top to bottom. I could no longer 
steer the wagon, and the oxen were dead beaten ; 
that night, when I had no protection, of course it 
rained in torrents, and we had most violent thunder¬ 
storms, the first we have had for ten months. While 
treking across an extensive open plain by moonlight, 
I found an ostrich nest with fifteen eggs, which we 
bagged at once. About twelve the following day I 
reached Letloche, where I spent two days repairing 
damages, and I hope to reach the Bamangwato 
State (Sicomo’s) early to-morrow. 

Waddington and Aldersley, two Englishmen, 
joined me here, greatly to my astonishment; they 
had chartered a vessel from the Cape to Angra 
Peguina, on the west coast, in February last, and 
had worked their way up to the Lake, through 
Great Namaqua and Damara lands, and are now on 
their way back to the Cape. A pretty good round 
they will have had of it. We sat up all last night 
relating our different adventures, though three 



hours previously perfect strangers to one another. A 
chance meeting of this sort is most refreshing and 
delightful, after being months and months alone, and 
tongue-tied in the desert. 

I had the good fortune to exchange my only 
blanket, six days back, for a little Kaffir corn, and 
got an intombi (young girl) to stamp it in a block 
for me, and have been luxuriating on porridge and 
salt for breakfast and dinner ever since ; it is about as 
coarsely ground or crushed as fine gravel, but very 
wholesome, and a great treat it was for the first 
three days, after being so long a time living entirely 
on flesh or fowl, cooked in every conceivable way. 
I am now beginning to think that a little sugar, 
milk, or treacle, might be no bad addition; but in 
another ten days, if all goes well, I may hope for 
some Boers’ meal from the German missionaries at 
Sechele’s, the most hospitable men in the whole 
world. My poor oxen are very much used up, but 
I hope to purchase two or three fresh ones here, 
which will wonderfully assist me. I have left my 
friends behind; their oxen are entirely done up, 
falling in the yoke from sheer poverty and leg 

29 th. — Massouey .—I am here again for the seventh 
time, and last, I hope, as I see no encouragement to 
return. I spent two days at the Bamangwato State, 
and bought six oxen, young, thin, and unbroken. I 
have already had four inspanned, but was obliged 
to fall back on two of my old ones again in place of 

F F 2 



two whom no amount of flagellation would induce 
to trek. I got also about 45 lbs. of ivory, but it 
was very dear, and I plainly perceive that there is 
no more good to be done. We have had a heavy 
thunder-storm, and I fully expect to get a little rain¬ 
water ahead, for after leaving Lopepe, a day and a 
half from this, we get no more to Kaporig, three 
hard days, with a good deal of night work added ; 
but I do most of my treking at nights, whenever the 
moon is near the full. 

I heard of a dreadful accident which happened to 
three Englishmen on the velt this year : three wagons 
and their contents blown all to rags, from the explo¬ 
sion of 1,600 lbs. of powder; seven horses killed, one 
Hottentot and one Englishman. 

Four Maccalacas Kaffirs joined me here to go to 
Natal, so that I am now quite independent of any 
Natal Kaffirs. 

I have just potted five ducks, the whole batch, in a 
most disgraceful manner. It was too great a windfall 
in these times to give them a ghost of a chance, and 
I got well under the wind, crawled in upon them on 
all fours like a snake in the grass twice successively, 
and bagged all but one on the water, when I might 
have taken them fairly on the wing, right and left. 
I now contemplate them with great satisfaction, as I 
have been living villanously since the death of my 
nags, and—what makes it, if possible, still more 
aggravating—we yesterday saw a troop of giraffes 
from the wagon, and made a vain effort to stalk in 



upon them on foot, when the best of the herd must 
have bitten the dust had my poor Ferus been alive. 
Those rascally Mangwatos stole my last spoon and 
axe, a box of caps, and my knife also, and very likely 
many more things that I have not yet missed. 

Dec. 2nd [Sunday). — Lopepe .—This is the last 
water for three long days, and there are no signs of 
rain, though it is so late in the year. I hear the 
Bakwains at Sechele’s State are all starving : a com¬ 
fortable prospect before me. I am getting all in 
preparation for a move—cask, water-vats and cala¬ 
bashes full, rheims and neck-straps mended, that we 
may have no cause of delay or hindrance of any kind 
that a little foresight might have avoided, and I shall 
do all I can to get over this much-dreaded part of 
the road to Kapong, after which, except the flooded 
rivers, it is all plain sailing to Natal. I have rested 
here the best part of three days to recruit my poor 
oxen, but they have not benefited much, as the 
grass is too scarce. I have broken in three young 
ones from Bamangwato, but they only help in the 
day, as they plague too much yet for night-work, 
and are continually getting wrong in the yoke. I 
have bagged this time with great difficulty one pallah 
and one springbuck, and should be very glad if I had 
with me any young ardent sportsman to take this job 
off my hands, as it begins now to pall upon me, and, as 
soon as ever I have procured sufficient for the day, I 
immediately make the best of my way back. It is no 
longer sport; the days are now gone by when I 


would walk from Leyland or Hoghton to Brinseall 
and back, for the chance only of a shot or two at a 
snipe, or from Ledard to the port of Monteith and 
back, ten long Scotch miles each way, for a day at 
rabbits and woodcocks, as I used to do every Saturday 
all through the winter. 

4 th .—Waddington lent me Dr. Livingstone’s work 
at Letloche, and I have just now for the first time 
read his description of the Falls of the Zambesi, and 
compared notes with my own ; they differ materially, 
but on carefully reperusing mine I cannot alter a 
word. He has much underrated their magnitude. I 
saw them every successive day for a week from every 
accessible point, from opposite, from both sides, and 
above. Distance is most deceiving in this country, 
and still more so on the water; when I stepped it off 
opposite I was myself surprised to find it so far, and 
am confident I have not overrated the river at 2,000 
yards wide. I may perhaps have rather overrated the 
depth, but the Umgani Falls in Natal are 100 yards 
deep, and the Zambesi, as far as the eye can judge, 
look as deep; as to the width, I can throw a stone 
ninety yards, and though I had some good ones to 
choose from, and threw with force and confidence 
from within twenty feet of the edge, having a very 
good head and never getting dizzy, yet I never suc¬ 
ceeded in many attempts in throwing one across. 
It is probably, therefore, as many yards as the 
Doctor says feet; otherwise his description is very 
good, and exceedingly well expressed. He has 



erred on the right side, being too careful not to 
exaggerate ; he allows that he has a bad eye and is 
not a good judge of distances, as he says himself 
that he judged a distance to be 400, wdiich proved 
to be 900, yards. The discovery of the Falls was 
made in 1855, and from that time to this (1860), 
with the exception of Livingstone’s party, no Euro¬ 
pean but myself has found his way thither. 

To give myself a good idea in rifle-shooting at game, 
I have been for years constantly judging and stepping 
off distances — for instance, from one ant-heap to 
another — and have hardly ever shot any game on the 
flat that I have not previously in my own mind 
first judged the distance, sighted accordingly, and, if 
successful, afterwards stepped it off, so that I can now 
form a very good idea. It is astonishing what wide 
shots others make who have not been in the habit of 
so doing; objects look very much nearer than they 
really are, owing to the clearness of the atmosphere. 

9 th [Sunday ).—Got to Sechele’s three days ago, 
and am now the best part of a day on my road 
towards Merico. My two Bequina boys left me at 
Sechele’s, and we had a whole day’s quarrelling as 
to pay, their captain demanding much more than 
had been previously agreed upon, in consequence 
of the distance and time that I had been away ; he 
also demanded as their right one tusk for every 
. elephant shot by a Bequina, and this matter still 
rests in the hands of the German missionary, 
Mr. Schroeder, whom I have appointed to act in 



my stead, when (if ever) my lost wagon makes its 
appearance, as the Bequinas will not otherwise allow 
it to pass. 

I am now left almost entirely to my own resources 
to manage wagon and oxen over a heavy path, and 
some very ugly drifts and places. My Maccalacas, 
though willing enough, are surprisingly stupid, and 
we cannot understand one another a bit, and had 
all but broken the wagon twice yesterday from short 
turning and losing the spoor; but they will, it is to 
be hoped, improve as they go on. 

I got a supply of bread, sugar, and coffee from Mr. 
Schroeder, and a few beads also, and two sheep. He 
treated me more than hospitably; my difficulties 
and hardships are now only things to be looked back 
upon, and I am none the worse, though they thought 
me very lean and fine-drawn, and stuffed me, during 
my stay, as they do a Norfolk turkey ten days before 
Christmas ; Germans feed in such an extraordinary 
manner. I had boiled rice and raisins, cinnamon and 
nutmeg, boiled dried peaches, a lot of fried very fat 
mutton swimming in grease, pancakes and sugar, all 
piled up on my plate at once. I begged and implored 
them to stop, and when Mr. Schroeder, as a climax, 
poured some yellow fluid, which I took to be melted 
butter, but which proved to be vinegar, over all this 
compound, I need hardly say I had a bilious headache 
all the following day, as I was ravenously hungry, and 
saw through most of it, and then drank coffee to an 
enormous extent. There were all the ingredients for 



a very good repast, if they would only have allowed 
me to take it in my own manner, and help myself, 
but Mr. and Mrs. Schroeder took every opportunity, 
when my attention was called away, to load up 
another spoonful or two of anything that came to 
hand. I had once or twice the satisfaction, by sud¬ 
denly whipping my plate away, of letting a few 
compounds fall on the table, to be snapped up by 
the numerous black progeny, immediately after grace 
was said. 

I reached Merico in due course, where I left my 
two lads, Meercat and Ngami, in Mr. Zimmerman’s 
charge. I got my fresh oxen there, and made good 
play once more to Durban, where I arrived all right 
in about a month, without any occurrence of note, 
invested in two fresh and fat horses in Mooi Biver 
Dorp, and kept the wagon and my Maccalacas sup¬ 
plied with wildebeest, blesbuck, and springbuck, until 
we crossed the Drakensberg. My Kaffirs turned out 
active, clever, intelligent fellows in no time, trust¬ 
worthy and honest in every respect, capital hands 
with then* long needles at sewing, and excellent 
cattle and horse-herds. Two whom I turned into 
grooms were wild with joy at the success of the 
horses in their charge at the Durban Bace Meeting, 
and their consequent reward, and when I left for 
England immediately after, they returned again to 
their native homes on the Cashan Mountains, some 
700 miles NW. 

My missing, and, as I thought, lost wagon, came 



down to Natal, about six weeks after my arrival, in 
charge of Boccas, with a heavy load of ivory. The 
oxen and poor Batwing were in a sad state of poverty, 
but 1 had the pleasure of seeing them marvellously 
recruited before I left the colony. Boccas had hung 
up all my trophies, many of the finest specimens I 
ever saw, in trees, to make room for the ivory, the 
more valuable commodity; consequently, I had the 
mortification of losing them all, though I was com¬ 
pensated in a great measure by some very fine ivory. 
The number of elephants they found in the tsetse 
country had been their inducement for remaining so 
long behind, and altogether they gave a most satisfac¬ 
tory account of themselves. 



The following is a List of Game killed by four guns in my last 
expedition (1860) to the Zambesi, with the Kaffir names — as 
far as I am acquainted with them — attached : 




61 Elephant . . . 


12 Blue Wildebeest 

2 Hippopotamus . 


2 Black „ 

11 Rhinoceros, white 


71 Quagga . . . 

12 „ black 


Zebra (Burchall’s) 

„ blue 

Reitbuck . . . 

„ two-horned 

Oribo .... 

11 Giraffe.... 


3 Duiker . . . 

21 Eland .... 



30 Buffalo . . . 


Bush Buck . . 

12 Harrisbuck . . 


14 Roan Antelope 

Red Bush Buck 

2 Gemsbuck . . , 

, Kukama 

Bluebuck . . . 

9 Koodoo . . . 

. Iganthla 

10 Steinbuck . . 

4 Waterbuck . . 

. Ipifa 

1 Gryse Steinbuck 

1 Hartebeest . . , 

. Inthluzela 

Pokur .... 

12 Tsessebe . . . . 

, Tsessebe 

Nakong . . . 

18 Impala . . . 

. Impala 

1 Fall Rheebuck 

Inyala .... 

. Inyala 

Roy Bluebuck 

Leche .... 

. Leche 

Kama .... 

1 Blesbuck 

2 Striped Eland . 

25 Springbuck . . 

. Insepe 




4 Lion .... 

, Inconyama, 

9 Silver Jackal 

or Imbubi 

Grey „ 

Leopard * . . . 

. Umsila 


Panther . . . 

. Ingive 


Hyena, Striped 

Pole Cat 

4 „ Spotted . 

. TJmpisi 

Otter, two kinds 

Wild Bog . . 

. Inf a 


Small Wild Dog 


Black Wolf 

Bush Boar . . * 

2 Wild Cat 









Inconka (m.) 
Imbabala (f.) 












Veit Boar, 

Crocodile . 






or Flac 



Monkeys, various 
3 Hare 
24 Rabbit 
Rock Rabbit 
1 Tiger Cat . . 


. Umsemanga 

. Nlozi 


2 Ostrich 

Large Crested Bustard 
Common „ 

Koran, or small „ six varieties 
Guinea Fowl, Black 

„ „ Blue or Grey 

Pheasants, two kinds 
Partridges, three kinds 
Quail, two kinds 
Snipe, Common and Painted 



Namaqua Partridges, three sorts 
Plovers, three kinds 
Pigeons — Wood, Rock, and 
Turtle Dove, six of the long¬ 
tailed variety 
Sacred Ibis 

Bush Turkey, not eatable 

Black Goose 

Gre y « 

Golden „ 

Muscovy Duck 

Yellow-billed „ 

Common ,, 

Brown „ 






Water Hens, and every variety 
of Water Fowl 
Hammer Kop 




BOUTI Inyouti, a beer, 77 
African cuisine, 333 
— Gum-trees, 84 
Amabouche, an African fruit, 62 
Amas, 13, 69, 71 
Amasi, thick sour milk, 350 
Amatonga bread, 84 
Amatongas tribe, the, 75, 119, 121; 

their courtesy, 77; their industry, 85 
Amobella meal, 13 
Antelopes, 199, 382 
Ants, 25, 69 
Ant-heaps, 283 
Armadillo, 146 

B ALDWIN, William Charles, early life, 
2; land in Natal, 4; first hunt¬ 
ing expedition to St. Lucia Bay, 5: 
encounter an elephant, 8; sup on the 
elephant’s heart and foot, 9; go out 
duck-shooting, 9; escape from a cro¬ 
codile, 10; trade with the natives, 11; 
sleep in a Kaffir hut, 12; am charged 
by a buffalo, 14; shoot my first sea- 
cow, 15; construct a house of reeds, 
16; am taken ill, 17; become my 
own doctor, 17; boat attacked by a 
sea-cow, 18; am attacked by ague, 
20; break up of the camp, 21; re¬ 
turn to Natal, 22; recover from a 
long illness, 23; two years on the 
Inanda, 24; monotonous life, 24; 
narrow escape from crocodiles, 26, 27; 
go into the Zulu country, 29; fall 


under a wagon, 30; shoot an eland, 
32; receive a visit from a panther, 
34; chase after baffaloes, 35; enter 
King Panda’s country, 38; sent back, 
39; hard chase after a buffalo, 42; 
narrow escape from a lion, 46; wound 
a lion, 49; shoot a blue heron, 51; 
lose my dog Hopeful, 52; bring back 
ample supplies, 53; am conducted by a 
honey-bird to a bees’ nest, 53; chase an 
eland bull, 55; breakfast upon buffalo 
tongues, 56; disappointed of food, 60; 
kill a bush pig, 61; life in Africa, 
62; run down a tiger-cat, 62; finish 
a pair of boots, 64; bad weather, 64; 
short of food, 66; pursuit of ‘ Justice,’ 
66; a wet night, 68; short commons, 
69; shoot sea-cows, 70; a good din¬ 
ner, 70; kill an eagle, 73; shoot for 
the Zulus, 75; visit the Amatongas, 
75; bag an inyala, 76; come upon 
lions, wolves, &c., 78; through the 
bush, 79; come upon an elephant, 
79; cross the Pongola, 81; chastise 
the Kaffir Jack, 81; am swept out 
of a canoe, 87; encounter with a sea- 
bull, 89; symptoms of fever, 90; 
purchase cattle, 93; go into the Zulu 
country, 95; dangerous descent, 96; 
lose a favourite horse, 98; narrow' es¬ 
cape from crocodiles, 100; missions 
in the Zulu country, 104; shoot a 
rhinoceros, 106; meet a puff adder, 
111; third hunt in the Zulu country, 




112; tent invaded by a lion, 117: 
am charged by a buffalo, 123; des¬ 
perate situation, 124; a hurricane, 
131; war among the Kaffirs, 133; 
frightful state of the country, 136; 
enter the Transvaal republic, 142; 
am visited by a Coranna chief, 154; 
a night in the open, 155; go into the 
Merico country, 160; life amongst 
the Boers, 164; chase a giraffe, 171; 
a timely storm, 176; encounter a 
giraffe, 178; feet pierced by thorn, 
180; my rifle damaged, 182; pursue 
a giraffe, 187; suffer from heat, 188; 
suspected by a Kaffir chief, 195; 
shoot my first tsessebe and first har- 
risbuck, 197; chase of an antelope, 
199; chase after Bryan, 202; want 
of water, 207; narrow escape from an 
elephant, 212; lost in the bush, 215; 
a Maccateese kraal, 217; a Hottentot 
maid, 225; Christmas in Africa, 229; 
am arrested under suspicion of smug¬ 
gling, 232; adopt a Masara boy, 
248; deserted by my Kaffirs, 249; 
alone in the desert, 251; dangerous 
encounter with elephants, 263; see 
Lake Ngami, 265; a Kaffir repast, 
266; barter with Kaffirs, 268; Kaffir 
cruelty, 269; lose a valuable horse, 
274; am seized with ague, 276; a 
strong stomach, 277; farewell to 
Leche, 282; Masara boy deserted, 
286; return of fever, 287; hot pur¬ 
suit of a giraffe, 289; am ungrate¬ 
fully treated by Sechele, 290; re¬ 
monstrate with Sechele, 292; bush 
on fire, 296; great scarcity, 301; 
horses, 305; go on another trip, 305; 
heavy losses, 308; harvest time, 309; 
course of a; bullet, 309; get robbed, 
312; how we find water, 313; after 
elephants, 316; fear of the tsetse, 
321; hard pursuit of an elephant, 
322; exciting chase, 327; African 
cookery, 333; in search of a rhino¬ 
ceros, 334; a riddle solved, 335; am 
deserted by the Kaffirs, 336; am pre¬ 
sented with Ngami, a Masara boy,337 ; ' 


have a return of fever, 339; great 
heat, 340; visit some English mis¬ 
sionaries, 342; suffer from thirst, 343; 
from hunger, 345; birds, 349; sell 
my ivory, 353; a bad gun, 353; nar¬ 
row escape from drowning, 354; dif¬ 
ficulties of crossing the Tugela, 356; 
our wagon upset, 357; a finished 
actor, 360; knock David down, 361: 
upset with Midnight, 364: a Kaffir 
Rarey, 368; African serenade, 372; 
lose my horse Frenchman, 373; a 
hunter’s life, 374; after elands, 376; 
view of the Salt-pan, 378; light 
pockets, 382; perilous position, 385; 
a Masara encampment, 387; trek 
due north, 389; my dog seized by a 
tiger, 391; meet an Englishman, 392; 
shoot a gryse steinbuck, 395; arrive 
at the Zambesi Falls, 396; meet Dr. 
Livingstone, 399; in the hands of 
Masipootana,401; see Dr. Livingstone 
again, 403; savagely charged by a 
buffalo, 404; watch the water, 406 ; 
shoot a lion, 410; in difficulties at 
Nanta, 412; am deceived by and 
punish some Maccalacas, 415; per¬ 
secuted by mosquitoes, 419; shoot 
a rhinoceros, 420; water from the 
paunch of a quagga, 421; unen¬ 
viable plight, 422; adventure with 
a lion, 424; am thrown in the pur¬ 
suit of a giraffe, 428; through the 
thirst country, 431; my horses des¬ 
troyed by lions, 431; retrospect, 433; 
accident to my wagon, 434; meet two 
Englishmen, 434; dreadful accident, 
436; return to Natal, 437; lost 
wagon recovered, 442 
Baboons, 128, 209, 398 
Bamangwatos, a Kaffir tribe, 293, 308 
Barbel, 241 
Bashoo nuts, 275 
Batlanarmi wells. 178, 295 
Butokas, a tribe in South Africa, 393 
Bees’ nests, 372 
Blue wildebeests, 204 
Boccas, a servant of Mr. Baldwin’s, 
409, 413, 427, 442 




Boers, the, 165, 194 
Buffaloes, 14, 35, 42, 44, 77, 109, 122, 
128, 139, 191, 223, 333, 335, 340, 
390, 404 
Bush on fire, 296 
Bush koran, 332 
Bustards, 114, 152 ; 332 

C ABALLA, 284 

Camelopards, 241 
Cattle, price of, in Natal, 24 
Chapeau, or Beauclekky, 241 
Chase of an eland bull, 55 
Clapper, a wild fruit, 198 
Crabs, 208 
Cranes, 79 

Cream of tartar, an African tree, 311 
Crest-peau, or bustard, 114 
Crocodiles, 10,15,26,86, 100,110, 130 

D EATH of Arbuthnot, Price, and 
Monies, 22 

-Bessie Bell, 98 

Delagoa Bay, 208 

Dikkop (thickhead), a bird, 36, 109 
Disturbances amongst the Kaffir tribes, 


Dogs trained to face hyenas, 211 
Dog-wolf shot, 46 
Dog attacked by a tiger, 40 
Drakensberg mountain, 142 
Dress of an African hunter, 58 
Duikers, 7 
Durban, 94, 441 

E lands, 32 , 52 , 60 , 206 , 31 . 1 , 370 , 

— striped, 384 

Elephant, the, 8, 9, 13, 80, 85, 212, 
259,261, 271, 316, 322—28, 385 
—87, 402, 406 

F erocity of lions, 151 

Fletcher, Mr., killed by cow ele¬ 
phant, 31 


AME killed, list of, 443 
Gemsbok, or oryx, 246, 256, 307, 
308, 372, 382 
German Missionaries, 298 
Giraffes, 171, 178, 185, 187, 188, 223, 
224, 279, 289, 342, 396, 428, 437 
Goats, 217 

I Golden-goose, chase of a, 16 
j Gryse steinbuck, 395 
Guia, or Tobacco River, 206 
Guinea-fowl, 82 

H ARR1SBUCK, or Potoquaine, 186, 
187, 201, 282 
Harrysmith, 143 
! Hartebeest, 210 
Heat, effects of, on clay, 401 
j Heron, a blue, 51 

Hippopotamus, or sea-cow, so called in 
Southern Africa, 5, 15, 69, 89, 121 
! Holden, Dr., 341 
j Honey-birds, 53, 300 
! Horses, 305, 307 

! Horse in a pit, 320; eaten by lions, 431 
j Hottentots, beauty of their hands and 
j feet, 31; their extravagance, 312 
! Hunting expedition into the Zulu coun¬ 
try, 29; into the Amatonga country, 

Hyenas, 116, 118, 125, 127, 145, 211, 
319, 329, 350, 408 

I A, a Hottentot maid, 225 

Impalas, 79, 125, 126, 127, 347 
Impangane, the, a small river, 33 
Inseline, the, a small river, 11 
Inkukus, a river, 67 
Instinct of dogs, 312 
Inyalas, 76, 92, 117, 282 
Inyati, a Kaffir guide, 21 
Inyelas, 73 

j Inyesan, plains of the, 8, 53, 61 
! Inyoni River, 105 

| Inyons, a servant of Mr. Baldwin’s, 306, 
j et passim 
; Inyonti porridge, 75 
| Irish informer, 302 




Ivory, 110, 161, 205, 214, 221, 294, 
344, 353, 414 

JACKALS, 127, 230, 372, 402 
Jurea, 407 

‘Justice’ in difficulties, 65 

AFFIR appreciation of wealth, 105 
Kaffir church, 103 
Kaffir banquet, 266 

Kaffirs, the, habits and manners, and 
traits of character of, 7, 14, 17, 18, 
24, 31, 72, 73, 74, 83, 98,104,105, 
114, 135, 175, 177, 183, 203, 219, 
242, 265, 266, 268, 273, 277, 292, 
298, 300, 326, 347, 348, 352, 361, 
369, 377, 379, 382, 413 
Kaffirs, war among the, 133 
Kleinboy, 306, 313 
Klip River, 142 
Koodoos, 34, 41, 74, 129, 131 
Koran, 109, 114 

L adysmith, 142 

Laughing hyenas, 62 
Leches, 247, 279 
Lechulatebe, 331 
Leeches, 208 
Letloche, 233 

Lindley, Mr., an American Missionary, 

Lions, 46 — 51, 109, 116, 118, 126, 
145, 151,162, 185, 294, 300, 366, 
410, 413, 416, 424, 431 
Lion velt, 352 

Livingstone, Dr., 173, 278, 385, 399, 
401, 403, 430, 439 
Lopepes vley, 181, 294, 346 

M ACCALACAS, an African tribe, 
181, 311, 319, 403, 415, 440 
Maccateese tribe, the, 149 
Makolani trees, 419, 428 
Makololos, the, an African tribe near the 
Zambesi, 398, 402 



j Malakanyama, a Maccalaca chief, 409 
Mamba, a snake, 99, 222 
Mangwatos tribe, 437 
Manyati River, 401 
Mapani trees, 246, 296 
Masaras tribe, the, 191, 296, 308, 313, 
321, 337, 338, 388, 416 
Masipootana, a chief, 400 
Massouey, a fountain, 37 2 
Massouey River, 401, 435 
Matakoola River, the, 31 
Matchevi, a fountain, 342 
Matibele, a fountain, 428 
Meea River, 380 
Meercat, a Masara boy, 338 
Mericocountry, 160, 162,298, 301,441 
Mesa River, 430 
Moffat, Rev. Robert, 193, 295 
Mooi River Town, 143, 441 
Mosilikatse, a Kaffir chief, 195, 205, 
214, 219, 273, 290, 309, 329, 411 
Mosquitoes, 11, 134, 340, 418 
Mowane trees, 268 

TYTAMAQUA partridge, 152 
' Nanta, 412 
Ngami, Lake, 257, 265 
Ngami, a Masara boy, 338 
Nights in the Amatonga country, 79; 
in the Zulu country, 102; near the 
Zambesi, 418 

Norwegian Missionary, 103 

0 MB OMB 0 Mountains, 116 

Oryx, or gemsbok, 246, 256, 307 
Ostriches, 143, 178, 420 
Ostrich eggs, 407 

P ALL AH, the, 78, 371 
Panda, king, 38, 67 
Panthers, 34, 210 
Peau, 114 

Pet Jacobs, a famous hunter, 343 
Pheasants, 328 
Poisonous herb, 404 
Pongola River, the, 81, 139 


4b I 


Powder, amount of, for African game, 405 
Puff adder, 110 

Q UAGGAS, 74, 143, 156, 278, 421 
Qualeba River, 380 

E ABBITS, 417 

Raffeta, the Bastard, 338 
Rats, 78, 91 

Reedbucks, 65, 108, 114 
Reitbuck, the, 7 

Rhinoceros, 106, 109, 125, 127, 223, 
334, 389, 420 
— hump, 190 

S ALT-PAN, the, 378 
Sangarni, 182 

Schroeder, Mr., Norwegian Missionary, 
104, 113 

Sechele, 290, 295, 296 
— feigns to be religious, 295 
Setabangumpk River, 401 
Sicomo, 307, 309 
Slatakula bush, 40 
Snakes, 69, 221 
Springbuck, 415 
Steinbok, 65 
Steinbucks, 7, 109, 114 
Stew, a good, 68 
St. Lucia Bay, 118 
St. Luey River, 74, 108, 116 

fTALO, a root like a potato, 421 
-i Tamalakarni River, 323 
Tegwan, a mountain, 128 
Thirst country, 343, 430 
Tiger-cat run to bay, 62 
Tigers, 328, 391 
Tsessebes, 168, 375 


Tugela, the river, 5, 31, 59, 98, 112, 
136, 354 

Two-legged wolves, 303 

MGOWIE Mountains, 68 
Umkusi River, 78, 108 
Umlilas, the, 9, 33, 98 
Umpongal, an Amatonga chief, 86, 90 
Umsindoosie River, 71, 115, 134 
Umslali, the, 30 

Umslatoose, the river, 33, 67, 113 
Umsutie, or Mapoota River, 86 
Umveloose, the black, 12, 21, 36, 40, 
51, 72, 105, 115 
Umvoti, the, 6, 30, 31 

Y AAL River, 353 

Yiljoen, John, a famous hunter, 343 
Visit to King Panda, 38 
Vultures, 127 

W ATCHING the water, 406 
Waterbuck, 78, 403 
Water rails, 79 
Wedding trip, a, 341 
White man’s grave, a, 413 
Widgeon, 79, 417 
Wild boars, 159 
Wild dogs, 342 
Wild ducks, 413 
Wild fig-tree, 81 
Wolves, 78, 127, 167, 328 

Z AMBESI River, 205; falls of the, 
396, 439 

Zebizena, fountain, 407 
Zonga River, 328 
Zulus, the, 35, 74 
Zulu feast, 75 





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Mr. Bentley's New Publications. 9 

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IN 1840. 



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‘ M. Guizot has unravelled Cromwell’s character with singular skill. No one, in our opinion, 
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customs, and politics is altogether extraordinary. He is an earnest and profound writer.’ 

Quarterly Review. 

‘ M. Guizot has given us an admirable narrative, far more candid than any from an English 
pen.’ Times. 

‘ We cannot doubt that this important work will meet with a hearty and universal welcome. 
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Mr. Bentley’s New Publications. 13 





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* We are glad and proud that such a man as Lord Dundonald survives to tell his 
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like Nelson than any officer of his generation. He performed brilliant exploits and 
acquired celebrity and friends. He has freed Republics, captured frigates, driven 
a French fleet ashore, been taken and retaken. His career recalls that of the 
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In 5 vols. small 8vo. with Forty-five fine Engravings of the Startling Events, and 
Portraits of all the most Prominent Persons engaged, in the Revolution, 


OF • 


From its Commencement in 1789 to the Period of the Establishment of 
Napoleon Bonaparte as First Consul in 1801. 



Attack on the Bastille 
Portrait of the Duke of Orleans 
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Orgies of the G-ardes du Corps 
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Return of the Royal Family from 

Portrait of Marat 
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Louis XVI. at the Convention 
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his Family 

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Portrait of Louis XVII. 

The 13th Vendemiaire (Oct. 5, 179 5) 
Summoning to Execution 
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The 18th Brumaire (10th November 
1799) &c. &c. 

‘ The palm of excellence, after whole libraries have been written on the French Revolution, has 
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‘ This book is one of which it is not too high praise to assert, that it approaches as nearly to 
perfection, in its own line, as any historical work perhaps ever did. The principal transactions 
narrated in it, and we trust by this time the narrative itself, are fortunately too well known to 
require a detailed notice of its contents. But a general sketch of its plan, and the manner of its 
execution, will we think convince our readers that the high character we have given of it is not 
exaggerated. Mr. James commences his work with a very useful introduction, in which he 
briefly and clearly sketches the progress of Naval Architecture in Gi’eat Britain, apd the origin 
of the principal improvements in the British Navy before the time of the French Revolution. 
The history itself opens with the declaration of war in 1793, and closes with the general peace of 
1815. [The History has since been brought down to the Battle of Navarino.] Every year 
between these two periods occupies a separate division of the work; and every such division 
is subdivided under three heads, detailing respectively the movements of the hostile fleets, the 
j encounters of single ships and boat attacks, and all colonial naval operations. The research 
necessary to procure materials for twenty-eight such abstracts, and the labour of composing 
them, must have been so great, that they alone may be considered as a striking monument 
of industry. With a candour almost as uncommon as his accuracy, he never fails to notice any 
variation of consequence in the statements of the hostile party ; and either to refute it by argu¬ 
ment, or fairly to balance it with the opposing testimony. We cannot contemplate without 
admiration the impartial and unwearied zeal for historical truth which alone could have sup¬ 
ported him through his tedious and thankless labours.’— Edinburgh Review. 

‘A new and popular edition of one of the most valuable works in the English language.’ 

United Service Gazette. 

f A new and well-edited edition of our standard naval history. The interest in our navy 
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16 Mr. Bentley’s New Publications. 


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By Professor (now Sir Edward) CREASY, Chief Justice of Ceylon. 

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Mr. Bentley’s New Publications. 17 

Fourth Edition, in 8vo. price 10s. 6d. 



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‘ So pleasant and gossiping, and written in so popular a tone and on so popular a subject, that 
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Notes and Queries. 

_ _-_— 

I I 

18 Mr. Bentley’s New Publications. 


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c The most interesting portion of the first volume relates to Washington Irving’s 
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* A life-like portrait of Washington Irving. Here he is his own biographer. In 
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Washington Irving ever traced. We find him in friendly communication with 
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Siddons, Young, Kean, Cooke, and the aristocracy of the stage. This is a book to 
be read and re-read. We have derived much pleasure from its perusal.’ 

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{ Washington Irving has been most universally admired; he has the reputation 
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Mr. Bentley’s New Publications. 19 

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By the Rev. W. PITT DICKSON, 


* Since the days of Niebuhr, no work on Roman History has appeared that 

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quality in a German author — is vigorous, spirited, and animated. Professor 
Mommsen’s work can stand a comparison with the noblest productions of modern 
history.’ Du. Schmitz. 

‘ This is the best history of the Roman Republic, taking the work on the whole — 
the author’s complete mastery of his subject, the variety of his gifts and 
acquirements, his graphic power in the delineation of natural and individual 
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is without an equal in his own sphere. The work may be read in the translation 
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c A book of deepest interest, and which ought to be translated.’ Dean Trench. 

£ Beyond all doubt to be ranked among those really great historical works which 
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a way worthy of the greatness of the subject. M. Mommsen is a real historian; 
his powers of research and judgment are of a very high order; he is skilful in the 
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particular questions. And an English critic may be allowed to add, that his book is 
far easier and more pleasant to read than many of the productions of his fellow 
countrymen.’ National Review. 

* An original work, from the pen of a master. The style is nervous and lively, and 

its vigour fully sustained. This English translation fills up a gap in our literature. 
It will give the schoolboy and the older student of antiquity a history of Rome up to 
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historical enquiry for all ages and all lands.’ Westminster Review. 

i i 2 

20 Mr. Bentley’s New Publications . 


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The object of the author in this work is to prove that the Mosaic narrative of the Creation 
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j the fact of Divine inspiration, and thereby authenticates the whole canon of Scripture. The 
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‘The object of this work is to reconcile the discoveries in geology with the Mosaic account of 
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Being the Welsh Experiences of Abraham Black and Jonas White, Esqrs., 
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Yol. II. Emma 
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* For all those who love to be amused, and who delight in anecdote, sketches of character, and traits of social 
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Crown 8vo. 5s. 


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than the first. “The Mad King’s Daughter” is also a capital t»le ; but, for one reason or other, every one of these 
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TO-itlj §Ummis«uas of lung ($ targe % ®Ijirh nnh ^urrn Charlotte. 

Edited by the Right Hon. Lady LLANOVER. 

* li * Only a few copies remain unsold of this elegant work. 

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Used at Eton and other Public Schools. 


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A Greek Play , 'prepared for Schools. 

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Notes awd Queries. 

Mr. Bentley's New Publications. 


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1859 - 00 . 


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‘ Will be devoured as a history of our own times by one of the most conspicuous men now alive, and will be 
referred to hereafter when much popular literature will have been devoured by the worms. Guizot is a man of 
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OF 1854. 


Edited, with an Introduction and Notes, by Dr. Norton Shaw. 

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‘Possesses the essential quality of accuracy, and the style is smooth and clear. It is a most useful book of 
reference on all subjects connected with ecclesiastical history.’— Morning Chronicle. 

‘Full, accurate, and impartial.’— Literary Gazette. 

‘ Supplies a want long felt by the clerical student.’— Morning Post. 

‘Mr. Marsden’s History has a fair chance of becoming widely known in England, and also in Scotland. The 
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1 vol. post 8vo. 5s. 


Nelson, Bossuet, Milton, Oliver Cromwell, &c. 


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